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Old 01-28-2017, 06:02 PM   #1
TokyoTexan
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Default Need some help!! Car wont start temp gauge pegs to hot

So I've searched and found nothing really. Here's the scenario. Replaced the transmission on my 2008 wrx. After I finished up, I attempt to start the car and nothing. No crank no fuel pump kicking on nothing. I notice my temp gauge pegs straight to hot.
Key fobs not working either, don't know if that has something to do with it. Changed the batteries in my fobs, and nothing. Car battery is brand new.

Thinking possible immobilizer issues, but no security light when I insert key and turn ignition. I read somewhere about possible ground issues involving tgv. Checked all fuses, and they are good to go. Just a little frustrated at this point. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:53 AM   #2
Charlie-III
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Did you swap the battery cables?
Did you reconnect the battery ground to rear of engine?
Is the battery good?
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Old 01-29-2017, 01:07 PM   #3
AliciasWRX
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Tokyo Texan did you find the solution to your shut down? I'm having the same issues and suspect a security lock out by process of elimination? Curious if you found the fix.
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Old 01-29-2017, 02:58 PM   #4
TokyoTexan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Did you swap the battery cables?
Did you reconnect the battery ground to rear of engine?
Is the battery good?
Battery is good, I tried 2 different ones and same problem. Yes, all grounds are intact. I even pulled them all off and cleaned them up and reinstalled. No difference.
Key fobs, radio, and clock all work now. Seems I did have a bad fuse which I replaced and those all now work. Still no start no nothing. Temp gauge pegs straight to hot. Kinda frustrated, I don't think a bad coolant temp sensor would cause the car not to crank. But since they are cheap, guess ill grab one at the auto parts store and see if that changes anything.
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Old 01-29-2017, 03:00 PM   #5
TokyoTexan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliciasWRX View Post
Tokyo Texan did you find the solution to your shut down? I'm having the same issues and suspect a security lock out by process of elimination? Curious if you found the fix.
No sorry I didn't. Car wont attempt to crank or anything. Temp gauge pegs straight to hot once ignition is turned on. Gonna try and replace coolant temp sensor and see what that does...
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Old 01-29-2017, 03:50 PM   #6
Charlie-III
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Did it die while driving?
Was work done and now the issue?
Was it working, you shut it off and now it's dead?
How are you checking fuses, looking or metering?
Do things shut off when you attempt to crank?
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:51 PM   #7
tweeder518
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I am experiencing almost the same exact issues except my fobs always worked. If you come across a fix let us know!
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Old 02-03-2017, 01:39 PM   #8
Cougar4
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Replacing the sensor isn't going to help you with that issue. Since the temp gauge is pegging I suspect you do have a grounding issue causing the problem. The electrical system is most likely trying to use the sensor ground to make connection due to the lack of a normal connection to ground. There is an easy way to see if this thought is true. Connect a ten foot long, 10 or 12 gauge wire to the negative battery post. Then connect the other end of that wire to a good clean ground point in the dash area. See if that changes things. If it doesn't then make sure power is getting to the dash fuses when the ignition is turned on. Use a test light probe and ground it to the dash area. Place the probe tip of the probe on the small slits located on top of the fuses to verify power is getting to them. There are two sides to each fuse and both sides should light up on a good fuse.

Another thing that should be checked is the ground wire between the battery and the chassis of the car along with the main ground wire to the starter motor. Lastly, there are several main ground connections in the engine area, make sure they are making good connection to ground.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:47 PM   #9
SnowTh1ef
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Have a 2013 WRX with this same issue, replaced tgv housing due to a stuck shaft and now this. I've checked all fuses, engine harness connection and grounds to no avail. Even tried to additional ground wire to multiple locations. Anyone else have any ideas?
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:48 PM   #10
Cougar4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowTh1ef View Post
Have a 2013 WRX with this same issue, replaced tgv housing due to a stuck shaft and now this. I've checked all fuses, engine harness connection and grounds to no avail. Even tried to additional ground wire to multiple locations. Anyone else have any ideas?
Remove the connection to the gauge and use an ohmmeter to check the resistance on wire lead connection going to the sensor. See if the resistance is near zero ohms with respect to ground. If it is then it appears the connection to the sensor has a short to ground somewhere on it.
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:07 AM   #11
SnowTh1ef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
Remove the connection to the gauge and use an ohmmeter to check the resistance on wire lead connection going to the sensor. See if the resistance is near zero ohms with respect to ground. If it is then it appears the connection to the sensor has a short to ground somewhere on it.
Just to make sure I understand, are you saying to take out the gauge cluster and check the resistance from there or from where the connector plugs into the coolant temp sensor?
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Old 03-15-2019, 01:17 PM   #12
Cougar4
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You are trying to find out the resistance of the wire connection, relative to ground, going to the sensor, while the gauge is removed from the circuit. I suspect that the wiring has a short to ground somehow, since you stated it pegs out to the HOT position. Instead of checking the resistance at the gauge side you could try checking the wiring from the sensor side of the circuit. This would be a little easier to do. Remove the wire connection at the sensor and check the wire going back to the gauge. See what the resistance to ground is at that point. One thing to be aware of, if the wire has been severed and the sensor wiring end is open, and the gauge wiring end is shorted to ground. In that case, you would still need to check the gauge side to confirm the short to ground.
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:19 PM   #13
SnowTh1ef
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So checked the sensor side, both legs have about 65kohm resistance between ground, checked a few other sensors and all about the same so I'm guessing that's normal because that's a really high resistance so I don't suspect a short there. Sensor unplugged car still will not crank. Accessport still not getting power from OBD2. Jumped starter remote wire with key in on position and it will turn over but not start. So seems to be some kind of wiring issue preventing the ECU from really starting, no fuel pump etc. There's a fuse under dash labeled "start" 7.5a that does not get 12v with key on or off.
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:42 PM   #14
SnowTh1ef
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I actually just found the problem. This ground didn't get reattached when I put the intake back on. Connected a ground jumper and everything sprung back to life. https://i.imgur.com/n7nsUpN.jpg
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Old 03-17-2019, 02:12 PM   #15
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Glad you found the trouble. Those engine grounds are important.
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:22 PM   #16
SnowTh1ef
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Me too. Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-09-2019, 02:08 PM   #17
sonicyellowBLOB
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Default headlight harness crossed with fuel harness somewhere? car wonít turn over

After fixing an injector leak and taking the manifold off, I attempted to start my car but the fuel pump wonít turn on at all, and the car cranks but wonít turn over.. when I take the key out the ignition iím able to put my blinkers on and my oil light is still on the dash. BUT when I put my high beams on I can hear the fuel pump turning off and on very quickly and then i can also hear the injectors. my temp gauge goes up to hot once the keys out the ignition. ALSO says I have no gas and the gas light is on even though itís a full tank. I replaced the main fuel pump relay, ignition relay, whole fuel pump assembly with an aem fuel pump (car ran beautifully with the same pump) checked all fuses, all grounds are in from battery as well as both on manifold. very frustrated with this i just want my car running! -03 wrx 04 front end swap JDM ej205 tgv deletes iag fuel rails and lines tuned basemap on AP V3 by matt miner
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:30 PM   #18
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicyellowBLOB View Post
After fixing an injector leak and taking the manifold off, I attempted to start my car but the fuel pump wonít turn on at all, and the car cranks but wonít turn over.. when I take the key out the ignition iím able to put my blinkers on and my oil light is still on the dash. BUT when I put my high beams on I can hear the fuel pump turning off and on very quickly and then i can also hear the injectors. my temp gauge goes up to hot once the keys out the ignition. ALSO says I have no gas and the gas light is on even though itís a full tank. I replaced the main fuel pump relay, ignition relay, whole fuel pump assembly with an aem fuel pump (car ran beautifully with the same pump) checked all fuses, all grounds are in from battery as well as both on manifold. very frustrated with this i just want my car running! -03 wrx 04 front end swap JDM ej205 tgv deletes iag fuel rails and lines tuned basemap on AP V3 by matt miner
First off, you have a "crank no start" or "crank no fire", it turns over (cranks) but is not starting.
You have a wiring issue based on your description. As to engine grounds, not only do they need to be clean and tight, but also on something metal that is grounded. Some peeps put the ground on a plastic plate intake, some forgot to tighten the connection (it was only finger tight), some use a plastic/phenolic spacer that reduces the grounding.

With your parts list, was everything on and working and then you removed the intake to fix the injector leak?
Or, you fixed the leak, then added/replaced a bunch of parts due to the "crank no start"?
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Old 04-10-2019, 07:38 AM   #19
sonicyellowBLOB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
First off, you have a "crank no start" or "crank no fire", it turns over (cranks) but is not starting.
You have a wiring issue based on your description. As to engine grounds, not only do they need to be clean and tight, but also on something metal that is grounded. Some peeps put the ground on a plastic plate intake, some forgot to tighten the connection (it was only finger tight), some use a plastic/phenolic spacer that reduces the grounding.

With your parts list, was everything on and working and then you removed the intake to fix the injector leak?
Or, you fixed the leak, then added/replaced a bunch of parts due to the "crank no start"?
the car was driving very well with all these parts on already. the only things i did were a coolant and oil change
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:49 PM   #20
Bart-sti
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Default Same problem

i Changed the clutch now car wonít start! water temperature gauge pegs hot and differential signal warning blinking lock plus something is draining the battery, please help
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Old 04-13-2019, 11:53 PM   #21
CosmoTheCat
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check for unplugged connectors
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:40 PM   #22
Cougar4
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Since the fuel pump and injectors are cycling it sounds like you connected the test connectors together that should only be connected when testing.

Make sure all the main engine and body grounds are connected properly.
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Old 04-21-2019, 09:44 PM   #23
pearljam11
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Default Need some help!! Car wont start temp gauge pegs to hot

A similar thing happened to me when I had a loose ground. You might think you didnít mess with a ground but triple check. I loosened one to get to the injectors during a turbo swap. Had to get the car flat bedded to a tuner because the car was running so crappy and I couldnít figure out why.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:43 PM   #24
BRSUWRX
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Default purchased a 2009 with rough idle problem

I'm not trying to hijack this thread but this is my problem and hopefully someone can help me out here cause I really really need help. might be over my head on this purchase.
so last month I thought I got a good deal on an 09 wrx with 86xxx miles on it, with the same problem described in this thread, no start, water gauge pegs to high when I turn the key to start. anyways, got her home and traced to ground wires and found a loose ground. tightened it up and bang, it started right up. problem solved? NO, it idles like *****. when I give it some gas, it would sputter and dies. had check engine light shows missing #1. so I changed out all plugs and put new coil packs on as well. started it back up and same thing, really rough idle but no CELs. check for vac leaks and found it where the turbo/intercooler meets. the previous owner had a vac line from the engine bay running into the cabin. I don't know where it's going bc all the lines inside the cable were removed before I got my hands on it, so I just cap it off. changed out the intercooler/turbo o-ring seal and still no improvements. I took it down the block to see what happens when it's under load and the car sputters, dies, exhaust back fires, CEL comes on. Codes are U1221, U1201, U1301, C0072, C0047 and P0172. I pulled the battery to reset the ecu and started her back up about 1 hour later and no check engine codes during 20 minutes of idling like *****, idles like it's got too much fuel or it's miss firing on 1 cylinder but no codes. Codes will come back if I put it under some load. Anyone have any ideas what might be causing this or what the heck a vac line going into the cabin is for on this WRX, please let me know.
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:54 PM   #25
Cougar4
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I suspect the vacuum line was used to run the air vents.
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