Florence - The Destined FXT - Page 5

REX_WGN · 09-09-2022, 03:59 PM

Two weekends ago, I finally swapped out the rear early GR STI take-offs with 2013 STI ones that match the front. I had a business trip to Williamsport, PA, after that weekend which coincidentally is also the hometown of NASIOC member Winnerone23 who wanted to buy the older STI take-offs. So he kind of "forced" me to do the swap

I always felt like the rear was too low for both function and form. But knowing that the spring rates for these are ~ 100lb/in more (250F / 197R vs 217F / 194R), it was also going to be difficult to figure out the size of lift spacers to use with these 2013 STI take-offs. I bought all sizes from 1/4" to 1" since ownership of Florence. My gut told me to go with the 1" lift spacers.

Same method I used to remove the oem tophat studs from the front take-offs last winter. The lesson learned last time was to support the underside of the tophat to prevent "bowing" from the pressing pressure of the ball joint separator. I used a wrench for this.

Did some math with the following measurements and went to my local ACE hardware to get 50mm M10x1.25 flange bolts - grade 10.9. I always prefer flange bolts to spread the load as opposed to regular bolts with washers.

Ended up getting 2x50mm and 2x60mm since they didn't have enough in stock.

Used some threadlocker to keep things in place.

All done.

Here's a picture to show my math was A-ok.

(Part 2 next post)

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

REX_WGN · 09-09-2022, 04:04 PM

Part numbers for the two different STI rear shocks

I decided to take a measurement from the shock's lower mount crush tube to the top face of the tophat that meets the chassis.

09-10 STI measures 17 1/4"

11-14 STI measures 16 5/8"

Interesting that the later-model take-offs are shorter but I guess the loaded length is different because of the stiffer springs.

The installation was pretty simple. However, I did discover this when I removed the older take-offs:

Yikes. Not sure when this happened in the last two months. The car did feel like it rolled more the last few times I've been on the highway. I reached out to Rallitek and they will be sending me a new set.

Here's a before and after:

I prefer a 2 finger gap between the top of tire and the fender, "measured" parallel to the ground. The 1" lift spacers are perfect for what I want. And now that I see the difference between the front and rear, I'm thinking I need another 1/4" to a 1/2" in the front.

So I went back to the same parking lot when I tested out the rear swaybar. What's pretty damn interesting is that the car felt really flat when doing hard turns and transitions. I also noticed that I staying on the gas pedal during a circle helped to bring the rear around and turn in easier. And mind you, this is without the rear swaybar connected.

All the positives from the low speed testing translated to the highway. It was confidence inspiring, feeling like I can really push the car to go faster. Quick transitions like a quick lane change felt incredibly stable. On long sweeping turns, I no longer felt like the car could break traction at any moment. And again, this is without the rear swaybar connected! One thing that did rear it's ugly head was heavy understeer during initial hard turn in to a big sweeping turn like an exit ramp. This was countered with some acceleration which brought the rear around. I blame it on the front camber which is somewhere between 0 and -1 degree. I prefer -1.5 to -2 degrees but there's a space issue with the STI struts. I'm waiting on Muteki 15mm wheel spacers to come in which will give me another 3mm to play with and I'll be swapping out the oem tophats with Whiteline offset ones. Both should then allow me to dial in some more negative camber and hopefully get me to at least -1.5.

Considering how good the rear STI take-offs have transformed the handling of Florence, I'm very interested to see how re-connecting the swaybar would improve or worsen the handling. Since the car handles so good already, I'm going to start with the lower setting of the rear swaybar. And because the endlinks should ideally be kept perpendicular to the ground, I'm going to try Whiteline's adjustable endlinks, part number KLC182. Not only do they have height adjustment like the Rallitek's, it also has fore and aft adjustability so you can keep them perpendicular depending on which setting you bolt it to on the swaybar ends.

500_19B · 09-09-2022, 10:15 PM

Great detail on the installation and how you thought everything through. Very interesting read.

Must have been quite a shock to see that drop link separated like that... Did the internal threads fail, allowing the stud to pull out?

500_19B · 09-09-2022, 10:15 PM

double post... sorry...

REX_WGN · 09-11-2022, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 500_19B

Great detail on the installation and how you thought everything through. Very interesting read.

Must have been quite a shock to see that drop link separated like that... Did the internal threads fail, allowing the stud to pull out?

I am not sure exactly what happened with the coupling nuts. I think either I didn't tighten the lock nuts or I put too much anti-seize on the studs which may have allowed the lock nuts to work loose as well as the coupling nuts.

REX_WGN · 06-07-2023, 01:25 PM

It's been about 9 months since I've updated this thread. Not much has occurred since then in terms of modding. However, a few annoying issues did arise.

Mysterious Knock in Driver-Side Rear Area

I didn't mention this when I installed the rear STI shocks but after installation, something is knocking back there. I also did install a set of Whiteline Rear Endlinks as they allow you to position it fore and aft to ensure it is in the optimal (perpendicular) position when installed. But I now do not recall when this knock started happening exactly with all of this rear suspension work. I re-checked the torque on the suspension hardware. I drove around the neighborhood and initally thought it was the passenger rear seatback was loose and knocking around or it was the rear hatch. I muffled both by using a rag in the latch locking mechanism and determined that's not it. I then thought I left a socket underneath the rear seat bottom when I pulled it to do something else but no dice. I even had my dad drive it around; I emptied the trunk completely including the spare tire, pulled out the cargo area plastic trim and I lowered the driver-side rear seatback so I can put my head towards the sound. My dad drove it for about 3 miles on local roads. It was quite annoying I could not pinpoint the sound:

sounds like metal tapping against metal
low speed is more audible
can be generated going over uneven or bumpy roads, but inconsistently generated
can even be heard going down a smooth road randomly
can be heard turning into or backing out of my driveway
Since I couldn't pinpoint it in the car with my dad driving, I sort of annoyingly lived with it. I'm going to check the suspension - endlinks and then the STI shocks. What's caused me to not looking into it yet is because of...

Engine Issues

I'm a little disappointed that the engine has some sort of issue and I hope it's not a bad short block. Since last winter, it started smoking randomly on startup. I can smell fumes in the cabin here and there and the engine eats a ton of oil. I've barely driven the vehicle and it's consuming on average a quart every~3000 miles. Considering the engine was resealed with new timing components installed, I figure this vehicle would get me by until I am ready to work on my WRX wagon. And I have no reason to not believe the prior owners. I just think the shop who did the work did not do a good job.

So I have an appointment at Performance Auto Solutions about an hour away from me. At best, it's just a bad turbo or leaking exhaust valve seals. At worst, compression and leakdown tests reveal a bad shortblock. If it's the latter, this journal may come to an end shortly thereafter. I'll have to decide if it's worth getting a new engine done for this vehicle vs spending the same money on my first true love WRX wagon after selling this Forester.

REX_WGN · 06-07-2023, 01:25 PM

It's been about 9 months since I've updated this thread. Not much has occurred since then in terms of modding. However, a few annoying issues did arise.

Mysterious Knock in Driver-Side Rear Area

I didn't mention this when I installed the rear STI shocks but after installation, something is knocking back there. I also did install a set of Whiteline Rear Endlinks as they allow you to position it fore and aft to ensure it is in the optimal (perpendicular) position when installed. But I now do not recall when this knock started happening exactly with all of this rear suspension work. I re-checked the torque on the suspension hardware. I drove around the neighborhood and initally thought it was the passenger rear seatback was loose and knocking around or it was the rear hatch. I muffled both by using a rag in the latch locking mechanism and determined that's not it. I then thought I left a socket underneath the rear seat bottom when I pulled it to do something else but no dice. I even had my dad drive it around; I emptied the trunk completely including the spare tire, pulled out the cargo area plastic trim and I lowered the driver-side rear seatback so I can put my head towards the sound. My dad drove it for about 3 miles on local roads. It was quite annoying I could not pinpoint the sound:

sounds like metal tapping against metal
low speed is more audible
can be generated going over uneven or bumpy roads, but inconsistently generated
can even be heard going down a smooth road randomly
can be heard turning into or backing out of my driveway
Since I couldn't pinpoint it in the car with my dad driving, I sort of annoyingly lived with it. I'm going to check the suspension - endlinks and then the STI shocks. What's caused me to not looking into it yet is because of...

Engine Issues

I'm a little disappointed that the engine has some sort of issue and I hope it's not a bad short block. Since last winter, it started smoking randomly on startup. I can smell fumes in the cabin here and there and the engine eats a ton of oil. I've barely driven the vehicle and it's consuming on average a quart every~3000 miles. Considering the engine was resealed with new timing components installed, I figure this vehicle would get me by until I am ready to work on my WRX wagon. And I have no reason to not believe the prior owners. I just think the shop who did the work did not do a good job.

So I have an appointment at Performance Auto Solutions about an hour away from me. At best, it's just a bad turbo or leaking exhaust valve seals. At worst, compression and leakdown tests reveal a bad shortblock. If it's the latter, this journal may come to an end shortly thereafter. I'll have to decide if it's worth getting a new engine done for this vehicle vs spending the same money on my first true love WRX wagon after selling this Forester.

500_19B · 06-07-2023, 02:27 PM

Sorry to hear about the potential motor issues.

That said, there are numerous ways excessive oil consumption can be caused, that are not that bad to correct.

Assuming the engine isn't making bad noises (e.g., knocking), then the main oil consumption culprit in the short block is worn rings. Was the oil consumption always high, or did it set in relatively quickly? Rings are usually a gradual issue...

Anyway, it is the right move to get things comprehensively diagnosed and then make informed decisions.

I have my fingers crossed for you.

REX_WGN · 06-08-2023, 01:10 PM

Thank you! I'll need all the luck I can get.

Hard to say on the oil consumption as I drive it so infrequently.

09-09-2022, 03:59 PM	#101
REX_WGN Scooby Guru Member#: 107618 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt	Two weekends ago, I finally swapped out the rear early GR STI take-offs with 2013 STI ones that match the front. I had a business trip to Williamsport, PA, after that weekend which coincidentally is also the hometown of NASIOC member Winnerone23 who wanted to buy the older STI take-offs. So he kind of "forced" me to do the swap I always felt like the rear was too low for both function and form. But knowing that the spring rates for these are ~ 100lb/in more (250F / 197R vs 217F / 194R), it was also going to be difficult to figure out the size of lift spacers to use with these 2013 STI take-offs. I bought all sizes from 1/4" to 1" since ownership of Florence. My gut told me to go with the 1" lift spacers. Same method I used to remove the oem tophat studs from the front take-offs last winter. The lesson learned last time was to support the underside of the tophat to prevent "bowing" from the pressing pressure of the ball joint separator. I used a wrench for this. Did some math with the following measurements and went to my local ACE hardware to get 50mm M10x1.25 flange bolts - grade 10.9. I always prefer flange bolts to spread the load as opposed to regular bolts with washers. Ended up getting 2x50mm and 2x60mm since they didn't have enough in stock. Used some threadlocker to keep things in place. All done. Here's a picture to show my math was A-ok. (Part 2 next post) * Registered users of the site do not see these ads. Last edited by REX_WGN; 09-09-2022 at 04:05 PM.

09-09-2022, 10:15 PM	#104
500_19B Scooby Newbie Member#: 524021 Join Date: Apr 2021 Chapter/Region: E. Canada Location: Toronto, Canada Vehicle: 2021 STI 2002 WRX, 2023 Crosstrek	double post... sorry... Last edited by 500_19B; 09-09-2022 at 11:41 PM.

06-07-2023, 01:25 PM	#107
REX_WGN Scooby Guru Member#: 107618 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt	It's been about 9 months since I've updated this thread. Not much has occurred since then in terms of modding. However, a few annoying issues did arise. Mysterious Knock in Driver-Side Rear Area I didn't mention this when I installed the rear STI shocks but after installation, something is knocking back there. I also did install a set of Whiteline Rear Endlinks as they allow you to position it fore and aft to ensure it is in the optimal (perpendicular) position when installed. But I now do not recall when this knock started happening exactly with all of this rear suspension work. I re-checked the torque on the suspension hardware. I drove around the neighborhood and initally thought it was the passenger rear seatback was loose and knocking around or it was the rear hatch. I muffled both by using a rag in the latch locking mechanism and determined that's not it. I then thought I left a socket underneath the rear seat bottom when I pulled it to do something else but no dice. I even had my dad drive it around; I emptied the trunk completely including the spare tire, pulled out the cargo area plastic trim and I lowered the driver-side rear seatback so I can put my head towards the sound. My dad drove it for about 3 miles on local roads. It was quite annoying I could not pinpoint the sound: sounds like metal tapping against metal low speed is more audible can be generated going over uneven or bumpy roads, but inconsistently generated can even be heard going down a smooth road randomly can be heard turning into or backing out of my driveway Since I couldn't pinpoint it in the car with my dad driving, I sort of annoyingly lived with it. I'm going to check the suspension - endlinks and then the STI shocks. What's caused me to not looking into it yet is because of... Engine Issues I'm a little disappointed that the engine has some sort of issue and I hope it's not a bad short block. Since last winter, it started smoking randomly on startup. I can smell fumes in the cabin here and there and the engine eats a ton of oil. I've barely driven the vehicle and it's consuming on average a quart every~3000 miles. Considering the engine was resealed with new timing components installed, I figure this vehicle would get me by until I am ready to work on my WRX wagon. And I have no reason to not believe the prior owners. I just think the shop who did the work did not do a good job. So I have an appointment at Performance Auto Solutions about an hour away from me. At best, it's just a bad turbo or leaking exhaust valve seals. At worst, compression and leakdown tests reveal a bad shortblock. If it's the latter, this journal may come to an end shortly thereafter. I'll have to decide if it's worth getting a new engine done for this vehicle vs spending the same money on my first true love WRX wagon after selling this Forester. Last edited by REX_WGN; 06-07-2023 at 02:42 PM.

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09-09-2022, 04:04 PM	#102
REX_WGN Scooby Guru Member#: 107618 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt	Part numbers for the two different STI rear shocks I decided to take a measurement from the shock's lower mount crush tube to the top face of the tophat that meets the chassis. 09-10 STI measures 17 1/4" 11-14 STI measures 16 5/8" Interesting that the later-model take-offs are shorter but I guess the loaded length is different because of the stiffer springs. The installation was pretty simple. However, I did discover this when I removed the older take-offs: Yikes. Not sure when this happened in the last two months. The car did feel like it rolled more the last few times I've been on the highway. I reached out to Rallitek and they will be sending me a new set. Here's a before and after: I prefer a 2 finger gap between the top of tire and the fender, "measured" parallel to the ground. The 1" lift spacers are perfect for what I want. And now that I see the difference between the front and rear, I'm thinking I need another 1/4" to a 1/2" in the front. So I went back to the same parking lot when I tested out the rear swaybar. What's pretty damn interesting is that the car felt really flat when doing hard turns and transitions. I also noticed that I staying on the gas pedal during a circle helped to bring the rear around and turn in easier. And mind you, this is without the rear swaybar connected. All the positives from the low speed testing translated to the highway. It was confidence inspiring, feeling like I can really push the car to go faster. Quick transitions like a quick lane change felt incredibly stable. On long sweeping turns, I no longer felt like the car could break traction at any moment. And again, this is without the rear swaybar connected! One thing that did rear it's ugly head was heavy understeer during initial hard turn in to a big sweeping turn like an exit ramp. This was countered with some acceleration which brought the rear around. I blame it on the front camber which is somewhere between 0 and -1 degree. I prefer -1.5 to -2 degrees but there's a space issue with the STI struts. I'm waiting on Muteki 15mm wheel spacers to come in which will give me another 3mm to play with and I'll be swapping out the oem tophats with Whiteline offset ones. Both should then allow me to dial in some more negative camber and hopefully get me to at least -1.5. Considering how good the rear STI take-offs have transformed the handling of Florence, I'm very interested to see how re-connecting the swaybar would improve or worsen the handling. Since the car handles so good already, I'm going to start with the lower setting of the rear swaybar. And because the endlinks should ideally be kept perpendicular to the ground, I'm going to try Whiteline's adjustable endlinks, part number KLC182. Not only do they have height adjustment like the Rallitek's, it also has fore and aft adjustability so you can keep them perpendicular depending on which setting you bolt it to on the swaybar ends.

09-09-2022, 10:15 PM	#103
500_19B Scooby Newbie Member#: 524021 Join Date: Apr 2021 Chapter/Region: E. Canada Location: Toronto, Canada Vehicle: 2021 STI 2002 WRX, 2023 Crosstrek	Great detail on the installation and how you thought everything through. Very interesting read. Must have been quite a shock to see that drop link separated like that... Did the internal threads fail, allowing the stud to pull out?

06-07-2023, 01:25 PM	#106
REX_WGN Scooby Guru Member#: 107618 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt	It's been about 9 months since I've updated this thread. Not much has occurred since then in terms of modding. However, a few annoying issues did arise. Mysterious Knock in Driver-Side Rear Area I didn't mention this when I installed the rear STI shocks but after installation, something is knocking back there. I also did install a set of Whiteline Rear Endlinks as they allow you to position it fore and aft to ensure it is in the optimal (perpendicular) position when installed. But I now do not recall when this knock started happening exactly with all of this rear suspension work. I re-checked the torque on the suspension hardware. I drove around the neighborhood and initally thought it was the passenger rear seatback was loose and knocking around or it was the rear hatch. I muffled both by using a rag in the latch locking mechanism and determined that's not it. I then thought I left a socket underneath the rear seat bottom when I pulled it to do something else but no dice. I even had my dad drive it around; I emptied the trunk completely including the spare tire, pulled out the cargo area plastic trim and I lowered the driver-side rear seatback so I can put my head towards the sound. My dad drove it for about 3 miles on local roads. It was quite annoying I could not pinpoint the sound: sounds like metal tapping against metal low speed is more audible can be generated going over uneven or bumpy roads, but inconsistently generated can even be heard going down a smooth road randomly can be heard turning into or backing out of my driveway Since I couldn't pinpoint it in the car with my dad driving, I sort of annoyingly lived with it. I'm going to check the suspension - endlinks and then the STI shocks. What's caused me to not looking into it yet is because of... Engine Issues I'm a little disappointed that the engine has some sort of issue and I hope it's not a bad short block. Since last winter, it started smoking randomly on startup. I can smell fumes in the cabin here and there and the engine eats a ton of oil. I've barely driven the vehicle and it's consuming on average a quart every~3000 miles. Considering the engine was resealed with new timing components installed, I figure this vehicle would get me by until I am ready to work on my WRX wagon. And I have no reason to not believe the prior owners. I just think the shop who did the work did not do a good job. So I have an appointment at Performance Auto Solutions about an hour away from me. At best, it's just a bad turbo or leaking exhaust valve seals. At worst, compression and leakdown tests reveal a bad shortblock. If it's the latter, this journal may come to an end shortly thereafter. I'll have to decide if it's worth getting a new engine done for this vehicle vs spending the same money on my first true love WRX wagon after selling this Forester.

06-07-2023, 02:27 PM	#108
500_19B Scooby Newbie Member#: 524021 Join Date: Apr 2021 Chapter/Region: E. Canada Location: Toronto, Canada Vehicle: 2021 STI 2002 WRX, 2023 Crosstrek	Sorry to hear about the potential motor issues. That said, there are numerous ways excessive oil consumption can be caused, that are not that bad to correct. Assuming the engine isn't making bad noises (e.g., knocking), then the main oil consumption culprit in the short block is worn rings. Was the oil consumption always high, or did it set in relatively quickly? Rings are usually a gradual issue... Anyway, it is the right move to get things comprehensively diagnosed and then make informed decisions. I have my fingers crossed for you.

06-08-2023, 01:10 PM	#109
REX_WGN Scooby Guru Member#: 107618 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt	Thank you! I'll need all the luck I can get. Hard to say on the oil consumption as I drive it so infrequently.