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Old 01-05-2016, 10:20 AM   #151
shamrock 05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthered545 View Post
Not really. How much boost do you think you should be pushing at 7000rpm?
My bad, I misread....you said redline.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Forcing the turbo to go beyond its capabilities is only going to make a massive temp spike due to compressor inefficiency. As RPMs increase, the stock turbo just can't maintain full boost, and still be efficient. This is why as boost and pressures rise above OEM levels, the factory TMIC can become overwhelmed. Both turbo and TMIC are pushed beyond design intent.

Also noteworthy, these engines use smaller valves than the previous generation engines and use twin scroll turbocharging technology. Both aim at improved responsiveness and mid-range punch. If you want a high RPM screamer, this is not the platform for you.

So by adding a thicker core intercooler you're increasing how much longer the oem turbo can spool in the higher rpms and keep power going...?
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Old 01-05-2016, 11:26 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
So by adding a thicker core intercooler you're increasing how much longer the oem turbo can spool in the higher rpms and keep power going...?
EDITED for you

Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
So by adding a more efficient core you're increasing how much longer the oem turbo can hold boost in the higher rpms and keep power going...?
Intercooler efficiency is always best the higher the temperature differential (ambient to compressor outlet temps). A well designed core will be more efficient (transfer more heat) than a cheap one. Cost is definitely relative as the processes to make a higher quality core are more expensive. It's definitely a get what you pay for product.

As the OEM turbo is pushed, temps climb, increasing that differential. Assuming the core is efficient and has good flow characteristics, yes you can hold boost longer because you are not flow restricted like OEM and the removal of heat from the charge is improved.
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Old 01-06-2016, 09:22 AM   #153
shamrock 05
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EDITED for you



Intercooler efficiency is always best the higher the temperature differential (ambient to compressor outlet temps). A well designed core will be more efficient (transfer more heat) than a cheap one. Cost is definitely relative as the processes to make a higher quality core are more expensive. It's definitely a get what you pay for product.

As the OEM turbo is pushed, temps climb, increasing that differential. Assuming the core is efficient and has good flow characteristics, yes you can hold boost longer because you are not flow restricted like OEM and the removal of heat from the charge is improved.

Idk what you edited

But the statement in bold, heres a dumb question......due to flow charistics and temps as the turbo is pushed aka more heat is developed.......isnt that what the hood scoop is for?....generation cooler/faster air flow the faster the car goes. So no matter how thick or thin the IC core is, you're still ramming more air/cooler air through it the faster you go.


Just trying to understand more
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:00 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
Idk what you edited

But the statement in bold, heres a dumb question......due to flow charistics and temps as the turbo is pushed aka more heat is developed.......isnt that what the hood scoop is for?....generation cooler/faster air flow the faster the car goes. So no matter how thick or thin the IC core is, you're still ramming more air/cooler air through it the faster you go.


Just trying to understand more

You are correct that the more air going through the IC the better it will cool, but this cooling effect doesn't increase as fast as the air temperature increases from the turbo working hard.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:50 AM   #155
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^ true, and from a heat soak perspective, flogging through 1st and 2nd gear airflow comes into the equation very little.
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:13 PM   #156
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Are there any dyno's from people running these yet?
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:37 PM   #157
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Are there any dyno's from people running these yet?
Any feedback or reviews would be appreciated?? I am very interested in this
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:16 AM   #158
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Are there any dyno's from people running these yet?
I'm at 317whp and 350lbft with aftercooler, chargepipe, TGV deletes, EGR delete, ETS J-pipe & intake. My tuner said the intake temps were fantastic and it was very easy to tune. He said there was alot left but wouldn't go over 350lbft with stock rods.
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:09 AM   #159
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I'm at 317whp and 350lbft with aftercooler, chargepipe, TGV deletes, EGR delete, ETS J-pipe & intake. My tuner said the intake temps were fantastic and it was very easy to tune. He said there was alot left but wouldn't go over 350lbft with stock rods.
How much boost are you running?
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:13 PM   #160
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There's one posted in the 2015 WRX dyno thread FBO + Aftercooler/Chargepipe http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2675766

Mine works nicely as well but I'm Etune. Never had it on a real dyno. Virtual Dyno says its 290/305.
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:56 PM   #161
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Im sure this is posted somewhere but can somebody post the dimensions of the aftercooler? Thanks trying to see if I can use killer b charge pipe with my Mishimoto intercooler
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Old 03-25-2016, 05:41 PM   #162
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14" x 10" x 3.5" but keep in mind, not all cores are made the same. There is fin design, density, lay, etc... that effects how efficient the core is at actually transferring heat. And a bigger core does not necessarily mean it cools better, especially if it's priced low. The production process for a quality core takes longer, with more refined/precise equipment and is accompanied by more stringent quality control. You get what you pay for essentially. So in short a huge intercooler will slow the flow more, but not necessarily cool the charge air as well.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:05 PM   #163
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We've had some questions on the trimmed shroud we've been using so I wanted to post a couple pics for clarification...

Pic of the modified cover installed...



Cut along the line drawn at #1. At #2 follow the groove until it intersects the first cut. The cuts can be made with a sharp utility knife. Run a file or deburr tool or sandpaper along the edge to clean up any sharp edge.

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Old 04-12-2016, 12:21 AM   #164
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I just started working on installing my aftercooler and charge pipe. It looks like I fall into the category of people who's bolts for the charge pipe to turbo are too long.

KB! I'm shooting you guys a quick PM.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:27 AM   #165
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Originally Posted by Boggie1688 View Post
I just started working on installing my aftercooler and charge pipe. It looks like I fall into the category of people who's bolts for the charge pipe to turbo are too long.

KB! I'm shooting you guys a quick PM.
Same thing happened to me when I installed mine back in January. I just fired up the grinder and cut off the required amount of metal off the end of the bolt to make it fit. It went right in and I haven't any issues.
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:56 PM   #166
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Same thing happened to me when I installed mine back in January. I just fired up the grinder and cut off the required amount of metal off the end of the bolt to make it fit. It went right in and I haven't any issues.
No grinder here. My tool collection is still growing. Proud of what I've collected thus far.

In any case, KB is already sending me the correct bolts.

I should have sometime to continue working on the car today. I'm going to just put it all together with the stock bolts, then swap them out when the new ones get here. Just something to help hold things in place while I work.
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:14 PM   #167
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There have been a few with bolt issues. Apparently Subaru changed the bolt length (different part number) mid-production which was an unpleasant surprise as some of you have found.

We are now including bolts with every kit. They are also available to anyone who has bought a kit previously.
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:55 AM   #168
WeAreThe416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
There have been a few with bolt issues. Apparently Subaru changed the bolt length (different part number) mid-production which was an unpleasant surprise as some of you have found.

We are now including bolts with every kit. They are also available to anyone who has bought a kit previously.

Can you show us some pics to illustrate whether we we need to get the bolt kit from you?
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:57 PM   #169
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Originally Posted by WeAreThe416 View Post
Can you show us some pics to illustrate whether we we need to get the bolt kit from you?
Pictures won't really do anything justice. The variable is on your car, not theirs. By the time you get down there and actually look and measure, you might as well just pull the pipe off and request the bolts. We are talking mms here.
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Old 04-19-2016, 03:06 PM   #170
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I'll see if I can find them, but I am pretty sure I tossed them both in the 'Suby bolts bin' after verifying they were different. In hindsight, putting some calipers on them first would have been the way to go. Like Boggie said, it was only a few millimeters difference.
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:13 PM   #171
Boggie1688
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KB. I ran into one small issue. The stock intake won't clear the charge pipe. The part that comes of the box to the top of the radiator. Does this fit on your car? Wondering if I need to do some adjusting or if it doesn't fit at all because of the larger diameter pipe.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:12 PM   #172
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^ Slide it into the couplers more. It should fit.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:28 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boggie1688 View Post
KB. I ran into one small issue. The stock intake won't clear the charge pipe. The part that comes of the box to the top of the radiator. Does this fit on your car? Wondering if I need to do some adjusting or if it doesn't fit at all because of the larger diameter pipe.
Mine touches a tiny bit as well.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:04 PM   #174
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
^ Slide it into the couplers more. It should fit.
AHh!! I didn't realize the charge pipe can go into the aftercooler. It fits now. Touches the intake still, but I can clip it in with some force.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:53 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
We've had some questions on the trimmed shroud we've been using so I wanted to post a couple pics for clarification...

Pic of the modified cover installed...



Cut along the line drawn at #1. At #2 follow the groove until it intersects the first cut. The cuts can be made with a sharp utility knife. Run a file or deburr tool or sandpaper along the edge to clean up any sharp edge.

I have looked w/o any luck. Can someone post a link or a picture of where to cut the engine cover to fit on top of the aftercooler? I've already cut the engine cover down as shown above, however, it seems like some plastic needs to be trimmed on the back side to get the fastener holes to lay flush.

Last edited by dr_wookiee; 05-01-2016 at 09:44 PM.
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