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Old 05-05-2006, 04:45 PM   #126
animes2k
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No personal experience, but that seems to be the consensus on Autopia. Not the best LOOKING wax, but certainly durable - sealant territory. Give it a whirl.
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Old 05-05-2006, 04:51 PM   #127
jefmcc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FWD WRX
i plan to detail my car this weekend so i went to Wal-Mart, they had all kinds of polish and waxes but no claybar.. is this step really necessary and where can i get it at locally
Skip Walmart and go to either Pep Boys, Autozone, or similar.
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Old 05-05-2006, 04:55 PM   #128
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why not just buy online, cheaper and a better selection?
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Old 05-05-2006, 05:55 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Jr.
why not just buy online, cheaper and a better selection?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FWD WRX
i plan to detail my car this weekend *snip*
I think that's why.
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:06 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FWD WRX
i plan to detail my car this weekend so i went to Wal-Mart, they had all kinds of polish and waxes but no claybar.. is this step really necessary and where can i get it at locally
It's not really necessary but make it ohhh-so00 smooth...
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Old 05-23-2006, 03:35 PM   #131
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thanks a lot for the tutorial.. it helped me so much, i have yet to wax it though, i'll probably do it later tonight, but this is what i got from using what you've recommended. my trunk had so many scratchs and swirls, but klasse did wonders!! I also have p21s wax do be applied later tonight. should look even better!
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Old 05-23-2006, 03:38 PM   #132
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AWSOME. I just got finished claybarring and polishing mine. wax will be going on later today and I will post a couple pictars
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Old 05-23-2006, 08:01 PM   #133
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Sticky please!!!

This is great since I had no prior knowledge to detailing given that my past cars were alll project cars and didn't have clearcoat, or was oxidized! weee!
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Old 05-23-2006, 08:56 PM   #134
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not to crap in anyones cherrios but detailing by hand will give you a temporary oil filler result

you need machine for a permanent result
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Old 05-23-2006, 10:04 PM   #135
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glad to see this thread is helping people out. Any more questions and I'd be glad to help people out....and just an FYI for local guys around mass. I detail cars on mon & tues, I'm usually booked for a couple weeks so if you want to make an appointment PM me in advance. Also everyone here should become members at autopia.org, those guys are very helpful and will never tell you to go search....definately the friendliest forum that I have discovered thus far.
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:38 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bren wrx
not to crap in anyones cherrios but detailing by hand will give you a temporary oil filler result

you need machine for a permanent result
what are you talking about mang? Thats very uncorrect. Surprised to hear this from a "master detailer".
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:58 AM   #137
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I think what he's talking about is that doing any sort of serious large-scale swirl or scratch removal by hand is a very painful and muscle-intensive process and the result will be mostly cosmetic unless those swirls are indeed VERY light.

I've polished out 2000 grit wetsanding marks by hand - in a small spot - and my shoulder was tired and sore after that...
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Old 05-24-2006, 02:41 AM   #138
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but it has nothing to do with the longevity of the results....and thats what I think when I hear the words temporary and permanent. At hand wax job will last just a long as a machine wax job.
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Old 05-24-2006, 11:58 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Jr.
but it has nothing to do with the longevity of the results....and thats what I think when I hear the words temporary and permanent. At hand wax job will last just a long as a machine wax job.
I don't think he's refering to wax, but rather polish. Many polishes have oil fillers in them to acheive their results. These polishes are much, much easier to use by hand. The result usually looks awesome anyway.

Polishes without fillers are usually harder (require more energy) to work. Sure, you can use them by hand, but you're going to get tired out very fast. A machine is the only way to go for these types of polishes. IMO, this is the superior way to polish as the result will last longer.

Waxing I prefer to do by hand, it's easier IMO, and more fun.
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Old 05-24-2006, 12:02 PM   #140
animes2k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefmcc
I don't think he's refering to wax, but rather polish. Many polishes have oil fillers in them to acheive their results. These polishes are much, much easier to use by hand. The result usually looks awesome anyway.

Polishes without fillers are usually harder (require more energy) to work. Sure, you can use them by hand, but you're going to get tired out very fast. A machine is the only way to go for these types of polishes. IMO, this is the superior way to polish as the result will last longer.

Waxing I prefer to do by hand, it's easier IMO, and more fun.
^^ what he said.

Speaking of which, I've got some Zymol Concours coming... Talk about waxing "by hand" - you're meant to apply the wax literally with your bare hands. I'm planning on using it on my completely polished out S2000 (wetsanded some large areas to reduce or remove orange peel, as well). So the prep is done, now it's time for the ultimate topper
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Old 05-24-2006, 12:37 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by animes2k
^^ what he said.

Speaking of which, I've got some Zymol Concours coming... Talk about waxing "by hand" - you're meant to apply the wax literally with your bare hands. I'm planning on using it on my completely polished out S2000 (wetsanded some large areas to reduce or remove orange peel, as well). So the prep is done, now it's time for the ultimate topper
You can send it to me when you're done!
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:30 PM   #142
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hmm, still dont see the point of making polish more "permanent". IMO, your polish is only as good for as long as the wax, and theres not a whole lot you can do to make that last significantly longer (short of trying different types). So when the wax wears off its time for more polish. I would never apply wax without some sort of polish first.
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Old 05-24-2006, 02:03 PM   #143
animes2k
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Well, some people don't believe that their paint can take much more polishing or would prefer not to risk it on what could be an already thin or fragile clear coat. In that case, a glaze instead of an abrasive polish before waxing is great.

For example, (best used on single stage paint) Meguiar's #7 is referred to as a "pure polish" - it has no actual abrasives in it and is functionally a glaze, but a glaze such as this will do a good job of hiding minor swirls and such as long as there's a good coat of wax on top of it.
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:36 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Jr.
hmm, still dont see the point of making polish more "permanent". IMO, your polish is only as good for as long as the wax, and theres not a whole lot you can do to make that last significantly longer (short of trying different types). So when the wax wears off its time for more polish. I would never apply wax without some sort of polish first.
what?!??! okay that makes no sense

okay, you don't leave polish on your paint. Polish products are abrasive liquids or pastes that smooth out your paint, or in other words polish the paint. Then you wipe away the excess, polishes do not cure on your paint, if you are letting your polishes cure on your paint then you need to start reading directions. Waxes and glazes are the only thing that is left on the paint for protection.

When wax wears off it is not time to polish ... It is time to polish when your paint is marred, either by poor washing/drying techniques, oxidation, bird poo, water etching, and so on....
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Old 05-24-2006, 05:29 PM   #145
Vince126
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Klasse AIO + Sealant + Meguire NXT FTW!!!!!



my old car before i saw the light.
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Old 05-24-2006, 09:48 PM   #146
Phil Jr.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydrew06
what?!??! okay that makes no sense

okay, you don't leave polish on your paint. Polish products are abrasive liquids or pastes that smooth out your paint, or in other words polish the paint. Then you wipe away the excess, polishes do not cure on your paint, if you are letting your polishes cure on your paint then you need to start reading directions. Waxes and glazes are the only thing that is left on the paint for protection.

When wax wears off it is not time to polish ... It is time to polish when your paint is marred, either by poor washing/drying techniques, oxidation, bird poo, water etching, and so on....
Read the directions? Have you read my first post in this thread? Plz dont put words into my mouth, I never said anything about letting polish cure. I polish my car before every wax job regardless of if it has defects because doing so I have found makes the wax last longer and gives a better shine.

You think the only time polish should be used is when there is major defects in the paint? Polish is not just for repairing damaged paint you know.
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Old 05-24-2006, 10:57 PM   #147
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yea, but when your wax wears off it is not time to polish for everyone...maybe you polish everytime, but it is not necessary to polish everytime your wax wears off...carnauba only lasts a month or so, you would have no cc left after polishing once a month.
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Old 05-26-2006, 01:49 AM   #148
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Old 05-26-2006, 02:01 AM   #149
animes2k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Jr.
Read the directions? Have you read my first post in this thread? Plz dont put words into my mouth, I never said anything about letting polish cure. I polish my car before every wax job regardless of if it has defects because doing so I have found makes the wax last longer and gives a better shine.

You think the only time polish should be used is when there is major defects in the paint? Polish is not just for repairing damaged paint you know.

I think we may have some confusion over terminology here...

"Polish" = abrasive compound used to correct paint defects, from light swirls to spiderwebs to scratches, bird poo and water spot etching, etc. Polishes can be either very light (such as Sonus SFX3, Meguiar's #80, PB SSR1, Menzerna FP2, etc.) all the way up to very heavy (some of the Diamond Cut, Heavy Cut rubbing compounds, etc.). This is the only type of product I refer to as a polish. Some of the lighter polishes have a lot of fillers in them, so they "remove" some marring and hide the rest.

Some polishes are labeled as "polish" while they have no abrasives at all - such as Meguiar's #7, Klasse All In One, Zaino. Meguiar's is in fact an oil-based glaze, Klasse is a chemical cleaner/polish and Zaino is a synthetic sealant LSP.

I would use something like Klasse AIO regularly to clean up the car. I would use a product like Meg's #7 to rejuvenate the paint (on single stage paint) under a carnauba wax after the wax wore off (not like I'd ever let it get that far!)

I would NOT use an abrasive polish if there was no marring on the paint. Not only is it a waste of time and product, but using an abrasive polish too frequently could cause a thinning of your clear coat, which in the long run is not good. I would instead use a glaze like Red Moose Machine Glaze or a cleaner/sealant like Klasse AIO or P21S Gloss Enhancing Paint Cleanser to "smooth" the surface and prep it for wax.

The only reason to use a polish is to remove marring - light or heavy.

Here's a chart of popular polishes and their abrasiveness
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Old 05-26-2006, 02:29 AM   #150
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No confusion. Everyone details their car differently and AIO is so light im not worried about my clear coat. Now if I was using a strong cutter type polish before every wax then I need to rethink my methods. Great chart though.

ps- Like I said, I made this thread to cut down on the million different products ppl talk about and the terms they refer to them with. For the casual detailer who doesnt show their car I think it just gets far to confusing when you start talking about, polishes, cleaners, cutters, sealants, glazes, waxes, etc. Thats what autopia is for!!! I guess im not as hardcore as some ppl...detailing my car is fun because it looks great but def. not a hobby of mine.
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