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Old 08-08-2017, 06:07 AM   #29576
theoutbackdream
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Originally Posted by binnkim View Post
Well last couple day was really hot and my ac is making the noise again. I took it to the dealer last year but of course it wouldn't make the noise and the dealer scoffed me off. At least my ac works fine although it could be little colder in general so I'm ignoring the noise. The noise only present mostly when clutch (manual transmission) is beginning to engage and it's very much like grinding noise and very distinct from regular ac noise but I have no clue what transmission has to do with the ac..

Any clue?
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Originally Posted by binnkim View Post
Did you ever find out what the issue was? I should start bugging dealers before warranty expires

I started looking into this deeper because I worried that if I left it any longer, I'd kill the compressor. So it appears that there *could* be a leak somewhere, but I don't know where. This leak, is causing some oil + refrigerant to leak making the system run dry on lubricant. Although this is just on reading, the signs are pointing to this.. So I plan to bring my car to my mechanic and have them check it out eventually..
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Old 08-08-2017, 06:09 AM   #29577
theoutbackdream
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Originally Posted by drpoop View Post
Anyone else laugh at dumbasses that think they're cool for racing a 148hp ecobox?
Yes. Love it when a performance car is driven by some dude who only has money and knows how to go fast on straights. It's fun passing them on the on/off ramp.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:40 PM   #29578
DieselDorf
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I searched and couldn't find anything about if our cars have a limited slip diff.

I found an old thread that didn't really come to a conclusion.
I'm not sure how it would work with the independent brakes that the stability and traction control use.

Although it makes me think it is an lsd because people claim it drifts really well with the stability control fuse removed.

Anyone have any insight?
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:05 PM   #29579
binnkim
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Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
I searched and couldn't find anything about if our cars have a limited slip diff.



I found an old thread that didn't really come to a conclusion.

I'm not sure how it would work with the independent brakes that the stability and traction control use.



Although it makes me think it is an lsd because people claim it drifts really well with the stability control fuse removed.



Anyone have any insight?


Imprezas come with open diff. Stability button mainly works by removing power input when it detects wheel spin. Also with abs. I'm sure others will elaborate on this.
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Old 08-09-2017, 02:22 AM   #29580
theoutbackdream
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
I searched and couldn't find anything about if our cars have a limited slip diff.

I found an old thread that didn't really come to a conclusion.
I'm not sure how it would work with the independent brakes that the stability and traction control use.

Although it makes me think it is an lsd because people claim it drifts really well with the stability control fuse removed.

Anyone have any insight?
We have open diffs.

LSD is a mechanical unit that sends power to the wheel with less traction. Doesnt use brakes.
TC is an electronic unit that sends power to the wheel with less traction. Uses brakes to manipulate an LSD.
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Old 08-09-2017, 03:35 AM   #29581
Commander Keen
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5MT models have a true center LSD.
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:13 PM   #29582
binnkim
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Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
5MT models have a true center LSD.
a.k.a. viscous coupling.
I thought the question was about rear wheels. nvm.
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:24 PM   #29583
Commander Keen
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I don't think he specified, but yes, we have open front and rear.

VDC can activate the brakes in order to move power around as an LSD would.
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Old 08-09-2017, 04:47 PM   #29584
drpoop
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I'm getting 30-31mpg after adding octane booster and gumout regane complete, which is 10-30% naphtha, 10-30% PEA (the **** that matters), and the rest stuff we don't care about.

Unfortunately can't think of a way to check my IAM since my piece of crap phone died and the new one I'm using REFUSES to connect to the OBDII reader.
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Old 08-10-2017, 06:27 PM   #29585
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Got it to work today IAM is still 0.75. I call bull****. There's no way it's still having to retard the timing with octane booster in the tank.
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:40 PM   #29586
flyboy1100
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anyone replace coolant yet? going to do mine in about 10 days. for some reason when I installed my block heater long ago I had to drop the exhaust, but according to the service manual I don't have to drop exhaust for coolant change??? i'm guessing I do again since i have the block heater installed and not just the factory plug but I do have the correct low profile block heater for the FB20
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Old 08-19-2017, 11:49 AM   #29587
drpoop
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Remember how you were ****ting on me for using green coolant? Yes, I changed it. Don't waste your time changing it unless you're going to do a flush at least twice with distilled water. Changing coolant without flushing is like leaving a third of your oil in when you do an oil change.

By the way, peak global lifetime is an acceptable replacement despite what Subaru will tell you. Still add the radweld "conditioner" **** though.
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Old 08-19-2017, 03:03 PM   #29588
flyboy1100
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I'm using OEM coolant, i know if i drain it at the block i will get most of it out.... have 2 gallons on hand ready to go back in.

Just not sure if i have to drop the exhaust, i had to for block heater installation, just cant remember what exactly the clearance issue was
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Old 08-19-2017, 03:43 PM   #29589
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If you don't flush even once it doesn't matter how you drain the coolant because it'll **** up over the next change or two from the sludge that it'll turn into from having aged coolant in the system still.
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Old 08-19-2017, 04:38 PM   #29590
flyboy1100
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Default 2012 Impreza thread

Considering how nice and blue it still is i dont think so. Not like flushing it is difficult either especially with the block drain......

No sense in arguing with you about this, i have never had doing it this way, people have issues when they dont change it
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Old 08-19-2017, 04:58 PM   #29591
drpoop
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It's not flushing it if you're just running water through it with the drain open. An actual flush is filling it with distilled or at least purified water and running it through the heater core, then draining and filling it. Adding a bit of extra antifreeze to account for the water that's still there.
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:18 PM   #29592
flyboy1100
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You can run water through the heater core you know? And if you want to make sure all the water is out use compressed air... I'm not the slightest bit worried about the amount left over from draining and refilling it though. All oil isnt drained out in an oil change, nor is all the fluid in a transmission, this isnt much different as long as it hasnt been neglected which my car hasnt....
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:21 PM   #29593
flyboy1100
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Did learn today that my low oil light comes on at 1/2-2/3 qt low. 2nd time i have seen it in 140k worth of driving. First was me turning on key during an oil change so pretty much empty. Lol.

Down 1/2 qt in 4500 miles, so still 1qt in 9000. Mix of 0w30 and 0w20 does seem to use a bit more than just 0w20
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:11 PM   #29594
drpoop
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It probably started burning oil because it was crying at the thought of you not doing a proper flush.
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:19 PM   #29595
Dirt Bringer
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So I'm on a very long road trip and my car started making a noise very recently (and suddenly) that sounds an awful lot like a throw out bearing going, and shows all the signs of being that. I'm at 85k. Anyone else run into this? Is it probably okay to do a couple of thousand highway miles to get home before I get it fixed?
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Old 08-20-2017, 01:39 PM   #29596
drpoop
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What do all of yours's (how do you even grammar this?) oil look like at 5-7k miles roughly? Mine is black as dirt so I'm sending in a sample to blackstone to see what's up. Could be nothing or could be engine falling apart.
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Old 08-20-2017, 01:51 PM   #29597
supertoast
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As basic as this sounds, mine's pretty black coming out at about 6k. Nothing quantitative to provide . Definitely agree with the service interval of 6k per the manual for my '15.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:05 PM   #29598
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I was going to go 7500 but might change at 6000 if this analysis comes back ****.
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:29 PM   #29599
flyboy1100
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I still change every 12.5k....per blackstone and me running Amsoil Signature
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:41 PM   #29600
drpoop
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I ran Castrol Magnatec this round because it was almost free at AAP or Autozone (can't remember which), and I will go another change with that, then unless they have another round of really cheap 0w-20 Magnatec I'll start buying Castrol Edge since it's essentially the same except slightly better in some ways I guess.

I doubt the 0w-20 Magnatec is going to go on sale at any stores this winter since none of them seem to even carry it anymore. It's never been in stock at the few places that still have a shelf space for it any time in the last 7 months.
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