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Old 09-23-2020, 01:35 PM   #1
CoffeeBlacker
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Default Upgrades and parts...

2016 WRX ...mostly stock. 80k miles.

Looking to go stage 2...i've watched a lot of videos...rambled through a lot of posts...I'm looking at a new clutch, flywheel etc...as well (due to current wear/abuse cough). And most everything i've read says i should have bought a catch can or separator as soon as i bought the car.

This will stay street only, unless something radically changes in my life. What are your recommendations for your top 2 clutches. I have my own thoughts on this, but i'd like to see your unbiased opinion as well.

Then i realize "stage 2" means a lot of different things to a lot of different people. Is there a stage 2 kit you would stay away from or recommend over another? I will need a cobb accessport with any recommended kit as well.

Lastly, i'd like to put in a catch can / air separator depending. I know i'm not racing, so i don't definitely need* a separator, but...well what are your thoughts and recommendations. If it potentially extends the life of the engine/turbo i'd rather have one than not.
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Old 09-23-2020, 03:29 PM   #2
idiosyncrisia
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Do you do your own oil changes and maintenance? If yes, you can buy a catchcan and empty it every oil change. If no, get an AOS as it drains back into the oil pan.

You will probably want one if you plan on going "stage 2" as it's a safety feature and helps mitigate blow by.

Stage kits are kiiiind of different for each manufacturer, but in general its as follows.

Stage 1 - 93 Octane tune
Stage 2 - J Pipe, EBCS, tune
Stage 3 - J Pipe, EBCS, intercooler + chagepipe, tune

Now, a lot of people will supplement it with TGV deletes and EGR unplug.

For the best info, check phatbotti's FAQ and upgrade path. Heck, he even talks about clutches.

https://phatbottituning.com/2015%2B-wrx-suggested-parts

https://phatbottituning.com/mod-path
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Old 09-23-2020, 08:41 PM   #3
CoffeeBlacker
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Thx for replying.

I do my own oil changes, brake changes, and some* other maintenance. I'll take a look at those links thanks again!
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Old 09-24-2020, 09:55 AM   #4
MyNameIdeasWereTaken
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Another thing worth considering is how you'll be driving this car.

Our WRX is "Stage 2+" but it's a daily. We don't track it, we don't really push it too hard. It's just nice having that extra power on tap for when we do need it and a WRX is more fun than a minivan.

A catch can is a good idea, I plan to install one eventually, but I wouldn't call it a necessity unless you plan on driving fairly aggressively at all times. Put it on your wish list, but don't let that be a modification that prevents you from upgrading anything else.

Depending on where you live, don't consider an upgraded intercooler to only be a Stage 3 upgrade. If you live in a hot climate, an upgraded intercooler can prove beneficial on a stock car. Even in a mildly warm climate, you'll want an upgraded intercooler when turning up the boost to prevent heat soak. Whether you go with a TMIC or FMIC is your choice; pros and cons to both.

As for the clutch, I'm at 90k miles on the stock clutch and zero problems, though this car has only ever been driven by people who know how to drive a stick.
Determine what your ultimate power goal is and buy a clutch that is rated for only slightly more than your intended power. Going overkill on the clutch can ruin the daily drivability of a car.
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Old 10-02-2020, 01:50 PM   #5
CoffeeBlacker
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MyNameIdeasWereTaken
-Thanks for the heads up and reply.
-I like the idea of an upgraded intercooler, especially based on heat (soak) issues etc if i stick to regular gas and increase the hp a bit.
-The clutch...i may try to splurge on a bit. Dual clutch anybody? It seems to have pretty good reviews, in terms of usability etc. I did not want to get a racing setup, i would try to get a flywheel which is lighter, but not going to chatter.
--My experience is about 500k miles driving stick/manual across large trucks, light-weight cars, and the wrx. I've as of yet not burned* out (or even worn out normally) a clutch, but currently after i had subaru do some work on the car (throttle was sticking a bit), the clutch now goes almost to the floor before it fully disengages*. Engaging happens early if anything. As i mentioned, i do drive it hard on occasion, and throw down harder then i would in some of the other vehicles i've driven, so there should be more of a chance for it to be used up...I had a buddy take a drive in it, who has a wrx '18...He said the same thing, but wanted to know how he can make his engage earlier heh. I have 0 slippage unless i'm just doing it wrong, i can floor it at 3000 rpm in 5th and the rpm's go up like normal (i've watched video's of burned out clutches, how the rpms will fly up while they're melting their clutch), but the car acts like i'm going from 150hp to 250hp occasionally (hard acceleration from slow, that everyone in the car feels). After that taking it to subaru, i took it back in because i saw the intercooler hose wasn't all the way on, which reduced, but didn't fix the hard acceleration issue. I've had them look at it twice and they charged me for having them look again. They are saying the clutch may* be bad, but said it feels really weird. My best guess is something didn't get put back together right, but they aren't willing to go through the work to find it (but what do i know honestly...). If i do replace the clutch, i'll probably go ahead and ask to keep any replaced parts, to both look over and verify there is/isn't alot of user based wear.

So as you may guess, part of the reason i'm looking at doing some of the extra work, is that if i'm going to do the clutch, maybe i go ahead and do some of the extra work as well. Maybe some preventative maintenance as well...replacing the timing belt...

Tell you what though, the fact that you can get a iag short block is really cool...I didn't realize there was a company making engines (or reboring oem etc) for wrx at all. I don't understand the realistic cost for someone who isn't doing it themselves with that, but its pretty cool to think you might be able to put 675hp, for i'm guessing, around 10k is awesome. I really don't understand what all can be reused from the original engine, if anything though, so final cost may be a bit higher (or lower i suppose) than the 10k depending on what parts you're buying etc. Don't know that i could pull the trigger on something like that, but it doesn't hurt to dream right?
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Old 10-02-2020, 02:15 PM   #6
MyNameIdeasWereTaken
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I test drove a dozen used WRXs when shopping for ours. All but two of them had a clutch disengagement/engagement point that felt like it was only 1" off the floor. Very similar to a few BRZs that I have driven where the clutch just feels like an on-off switch.

This felt great on a hard pull with quick shifts, but none of them were very easy in traffic.

The point of engagement is partially associated with the clutch itself, but if it seems like your engagement point has been moving, that could be related to hydraulics. At 80k miles, I'd definitely suggest bleeding the system.



The FA20 in the WRX uses a timing chain. Replace the tensioners if you're worried about freshening everything up, but I wouldn't be too concerned about replacing the chain until it actually presents an issue.



It is cool what all we have available "off the shelf" for these cars. I've been tuning cars for about 10 years and my personal take... For Atlanta Motorsports Park and the mountain roads, 300whp is more than enough to have competitive fun. Any more power can start to become unusable, so weight reduction and downforce become a greater interest to me.

Fast cars are fun, but there will always be a faster car. $3k for bolt ons, tuning, and upgrades with maintenance is justifiable to enhance what you have. But once you near that $10k+ for upgrades, I'd argue that you're better off saving that money to put towards buying the faster car that you're trying to compete with. (talking about street cars, not time attack builds)

I probably spent over $15k in upgrades for my C30 to make it compete with the Boxster/Cayman on track, and it does. But then I bought the 987S and it's wonderful having a car that has that level of performance and handling in stock form with a warranty. I'll probably never invest that much into modifying another car... Just my opinion though! I still love seeing built cars and I love the idea of people turning "the family impreza" into a supercar killer.
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Old 10-03-2020, 09:14 AM   #7
EvaUnit01
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@idiosyncrisia - I partially agree, I wouldn't say that Stage 3 would be a chargepipe since that and a new TMIC or FMIC can be put on at any time. Stage 3 would more be along the lines of upgraded fueling (hearkening back to like, STI stages similarly.)

@CoffeeBlacker - I would definitely suggest talking to a few builders and people who have Staged WRXs to get their takes on it, but in person though, because then you get a better feel for things. For example, for my Stage 2, here is what I went with:

Grimmspeed Drop In Filter (Stock intake boxes are fine, don't need more, just wanted better flow)
TGV Deletes (Upper Only)
EGR Unplug
Perrin Chargepipe
Perrin Turbo Inlet
Grimmspeed EBCS
Turbo Back Exhaust (Cobb Jpipe, Nameless CBE)
Cobb AP (but of course)

If you want power at the ready, good spool, then this is what I would suggest but each person's build is tailored to their tastes. Mine was more centered around airflow as you can see with the turbo inlet, and chargepipe. I value throttle response more than anything.

Ultimately, go to some meets if you haven't, see what people say about their builds. What they like and what they don't like.
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Old 10-03-2020, 11:18 PM   #8
609blk15wrx
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I second the Phatbotti recommendation. There is a lot of good information on the website about all levels of parts and what to expect power wise. I’m tuned by Ron with the following and I’m very happy with the setup.

Nameless Full Turbo Back Exhaust
Process West Verticooler (includes charge pipe)
IBR Full TGV Deletes
IBR EGR Delete
Grimmspeed EBCS

And I have an IAG Street Series AOS.
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Old 10-05-2020, 01:34 PM   #9
Deep_Blue_Wrx
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most intakes will serve the purpose if you want to do an intake for sound basically but as far as j pipes i recommend going with mishimoto or grimmspeed as they place the high flow cat towards the back of the downpipe helping with clogging issues these cars can run into. I would not recommend a catless downpipe if you plan on this being a street driven car and not doing ewg's. Me and alot of my friends have all gone with the ACT stage 2 clutch kits and I for one love it. hope this helps!
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Old 10-22-2020, 02:18 PM   #10
CoffeeBlacker
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Damn it...now i've read up on e85 (e60*)...

And thanks for all the thoughts/suggestions guys. Got a lot on my plate atm, but will let you guys know which direction(s) i end up going.
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:06 PM   #11
killadawg
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Can someone explain the damned stages to me!!???

stage 1 (stock with tune??)
Stage 2 is Jpipe, intercooler, CAI etc..
Stage 3 actually involves having a larger turbo?? or Grimmspeed marketing fubar the meaning???
Stage 4 is you have a built block??

and nobody really accounts for other huge upgrades like "tires, brakes, transmission, LSD's, suspension and coilovers.. etc.. etc..

and some even call a bigger turbo and all possible bolt ons a Stage 2+ (cause they didn't build the engine)

I only mention this, as I have met up with plenty of Stage 3 and 4 peeps that have had 200 less parts and WHP than when I had my Stage 2... again the real measure should be how many smiles a day does this put on your face and if you track or race, is the time sheet (which also comes down to seat time)...

don't get caught up in the STAGE game as it really isn't very clear at all
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Old 10-23-2020, 06:29 PM   #12
gurusan
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I think stage 2 generally means full bolt ons...
Stage 3 is larger turbo of some sort
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Old 10-23-2020, 06:50 PM   #13
killadawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gurusan View Post
I think stage 2 generally means full bolt ons...
Stage 3 is larger turbo of some sort
yeah I also think the term full bolt ons is very deceptive. does that include: coil packs, BPV, Intake duct, headers, CAI, CBE, EBCS, fuel pump, tgv and egr deletes, AOS, Flex fuel, WMI, TMIC or FMIC, Cobb or whatever tuner, Oil cooler, Fluidampr pulley, IBR full intake, motor and trans mounts, upgraded radiator, hoses,? what else.. man so nobody has a real stage 2 and the list of full bolt ons available is prob. near 100+ parts?

or can I just slap a larger turbo and call it stage 3?
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:33 PM   #14
LarzsWRX
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As far as having a fun street car, and if I were to do it all over again, I probably would just get these parts:
EGR delete kit
BRZ intake manifold swap (requires IBRs adapter kit)
FMIC (required for manifold swap)
Cobb flex kit and Accessport.
And a good tune from a reputable tuner.
This would run around $4k if all parts were bought brand new.

Too me this is the biggest bang for the buck. And would be the most reliable for a street car and still be a lot of fun.

AOS or catch can would be a must have as well.

Air intakes/BPV/Cat-back exhaust is for noise if you want it. To save money and to have some extra noise, just get a muffler delete.

As far as the whole stage 1,2,3. I don’t use the terms anymore. I just say what i got.
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:34 PM   #15
noobultimatum
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ALL THE STAGES

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Yea i kind of just "round it" when it comes to "stages".

Stage 1 usually means just protune.

stage 2 i just assume means generic "basic/common" mods i.e. jpipe, cai, intercooler.

Everything else is usually stated by the car owner for maximum swag points.

I just tell people "Yea, it's modded. Wanna run it or not?" Like killadawg said, list is way too long to list out.
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:30 AM   #16
killadawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noobultimatum View Post
Yea i kind of just "round it" when it comes to "stages".

Stage 1 usually means just protune.

stage 2 i just assume means generic "basic/common" mods i.e. jpipe, cai, intercooler.

Everything else is usually stated by the car owner for maximum swag points.

I just tell people "Yea, it's modded. Wanna run it or not?" Like killadawg said, list is way too long to list out.
You got my point.. lol.. stage 2 is not stage 2.. we also didn't mention octane, ethonal or wmi or auxiliary port injection into that mix ;-).. and yes this is a slippery slope.. I spent more on mods than the new car.. my Ford came stock with over 400hp and I can push it to 600hp on stock internals!!! (And the Ford cost me less than just my WRX mods.. but my subie is so fun at this level) its in the smiles per miles!!
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Old 10-24-2020, 09:37 AM   #17
Leeroy525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killadawg View Post
Can someone explain the damned stages to me!!???

stage 1 (stock with tune??)
Stage 2 is Jpipe, intercooler, CAI etc..
Stage 3 actually involves having a larger turbo?? or Grimmspeed marketing fubar the meaning???
Stage 4 is you have a built block??

and nobody really accounts for other huge upgrades like "tires, brakes, transmission, LSD's, suspension and coilovers.. etc.. etc..

and some even call a bigger turbo and all possible bolt ons a Stage 2+ (cause they didn't build the engine)

I only mention this, as I have met up with plenty of Stage 3 and 4 peeps that have had 200 less parts and WHP than when I had my Stage 2... again the real measure should be how many smiles a day does this put on your face and if you track or race, is the time sheet (which also comes down to seat time)...

don't get caught up in the STAGE game as it really isn't very clear at all
I always wondered this myself why people refer to “stages” when modding Wrx or Sti. Sounds so cheesy in my opinion lol. Pretty sure it stems from Cobb and their accessport telling them what OTS map staged parts they have. So if you were to have a fully built block rated for 800hp and all the supporting mods to reach its limits, would you refer to this as “stage” 15? Lol

Also is this stage game only in the Subaru realm? Do Evo owners or any other builds go by this?
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:14 PM   #18
rufus819
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Stage 1: ECU Reflash...whether it's the Cobb OTS map or you get a custom tune.
Stage 2: Turbo back exhaust
Stage 3: upgraded turbo

Those primarily distinguish the difference in stages. You don't need an aftermarket intercooler, charge pipe and TGV & EGR deletes to make the car "stage 2". Though they certainly help and if you're gonna spend $500 for a tuner to run your car on a Dyno you might as well do as many parts you can at once so you don't have to go back for a re-tune every time you put something new on.
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