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Old 12-26-2014, 10:39 PM   #1076
StimpyV2
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Dang. This came a very far way. I like it
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:57 AM   #1077
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That's an awesome build.
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:22 PM   #1078
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Did you get rid of the hatch? I got a good feeling about this one!
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:58 PM   #1079
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Always good to have nice tools. I have been getting used stuff off the tool trucks from my mechanic friends. Makes a huge difference compared to the cheap stuff. I still use craftsman sockets, mostly because Sears is 1/2 mile from my house and if I break one I can just go swap it out. I have a couple nice snap on ratchets and mac flex head ratchet wrenches, definitely worth the money.
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:10 PM   #1080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
Always good to have nice tools. I have been getting used stuff off the tool trucks from my mechanic friends. Makes a huge difference compared to the cheap stuff. I still use craftsman sockets, mostly because Sears is 1/2 mile from my house and if I break one I can just go swap it out. I have a couple nice snap on ratchets and mac flex head ratchet wrenches, definitely worth the money.
I've had really good luck with my cheap Harbor Freight stuff. So far I've broken one 1/2" torque wrench and one O2 sensor wrench. Everything else has held up. My main tools are these:

3/8 in. Quick Release Swivel Head Ratchet
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-96782.html

10 Pc 3/8 in. Drive Metric Color Coded Deep Wall Socket Set
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-93265.html

4 Pc 3/8 in. Drive Impact Extension Set
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-38...set-67926.html

I can get a lot done with just those. The swivel head ratchet is a huge help. It can make a tough nut or bolt into an easy one if it's in a tight spot. Rubber handle is great.

I also noticed that they have now released "professional" versions (normal and long handle) that look quite promising. Smaller head for tight spots. Looks a lot like the higher end ones (especially Snap On).

http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...het-62321.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...het-62333.html
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:12 AM   #1081
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I was intrigued by "professional" flex head wrench and also noticed that all the of the ratchets at Harbor Freight are currently on sale. So, when I went out to pick up some things I stopped by and picked up the ratchet as well. Along with a 25% off coupon it was only $15. Here are some photos.







I am also very interested in picking up the longer one of the same style. I think I would probably end up using that one even more, due to the increased leverage. Unfortunately that one was out of stock. I will try to stop in next week to see if they get any before the sale ends.

Here is the standard length one next to my previous workhorse (flex head) wrench. That one is also from Harbor Freight. It's a much larger head with a different pivoting design. The old one is slightly shorter overall. I think the slim head on the new one will come in handy in many situations.

The build quality on both seems very good, but the new one does seem very much "professional" in fit and finish. It looks very much like the Snap On that it is modeled after. Compared to the other flex head that I have, I like the directional switch better on the new one. I could never seem to remember which way was which on the old one.







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Old 12-28-2014, 12:27 AM   #1082
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And here's a comparison of the ratchets I've progressed through over the last few years:



Craftsman Quick Release Teardrop http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3...p-00944808000P
Pittsburgh Quick Release http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...het-69348.html
Pittsburgh Composite Quick Release http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-66313.html
Pittsburgh Quick Release Swivel Head http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-96782.html
Pittsburgh Professional Flex Head http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...het-62321.html

Here's a little comparison table.



I threw in the Snap On wrench that is similar to the newest flex head wrench I got. The new one I got looks favorable compared to all of them except that it doesn't have a quick release. I think this helps to keep the head smaller. I don't think I'll end up missing it, but I'll have to wait and see.

Here are a couple more pictures:





I had the Craftsman one from a larger tool kit that I got quite a few years ago. It did alright when I started wrenching on my WRX, but it is very short and the handle is very uncomfortable. Right now the teeth are binding badly. I am not sure when that started.

Maybe a year into the ownership of my 2011 WRX I got the first two Pittsburgh ones. I used the metal one basically as a replacement for the Craftsman one. It had a few more teeth and a little more round handle, but I eventually found that the plastic one was plenty strong, had way more teeth, and a far more comfortable handle.

But it wasn't too long after that I got the flex head. That was a huge game changer for me. So many nuts/bolts that were previously inaccessible to a ratchet were now easy to reach. I have been using this wrench for pretty much all of my 3/8" drive ratcheting needs for at least a couple years now. It's still working great too.

The new flex head ratchet is much slimmer head profile and a slightly longer handle. I think it will be a good option, and likely become my go-to due to the smaller head. The longer version of the same may be favorable as long as the extra length isn't a hindrance in too many situations.

The last picture also has the 3/8" drive Craftsman impact. It's fairly cheap (under $100 when on sale), and it doesn't have huge torque, but it can be a real time saver wherever there is space to use it. The flex head ratchets still get a lot of use, but if there's space the impact is a lot quicker and easier.

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Old 12-28-2014, 01:01 AM   #1083
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How do you like the craftsman impact? Can you use it for wheels or is it not enough torque? I want to get a nice impact but that also requires buying a nice compressor -- I've been thinking about going battery powered. Also, not sure if you use much 1/4" stuff, but it really makes a difference with fatigue. I would always use 3/8" but realized it was overkill for most stuff.
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:20 AM   #1084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
How do you like the craftsman impact? Can you use it for wheels or is it not enough torque? I want to get a nice impact but that also requires buying a nice compressor -- I've been thinking about going battery powered. Also, not sure if you use much 1/4" stuff, but it really makes a difference with fatigue. I would always use 3/8" but realized it was overkill for most stuff.
I do not have a compressor, so I do end up using the electric impacts quite frequently. I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" Craftsman (as well as a drill and 1/4" female impact). The 3/8" is rated for 130 ft-lbs and the 1/2" is rated for 200 ft-lbs. I think these are pretty optimistic. I'd guess they'll both do up to half their rating. The 1/2" can almost always get my lug nuts off (I torque to 90 ft-lbs). The 3/8" won't do lug nuts, but it will do most of the 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm bolts that I try to use it on.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cm-c3...&blockType=G16
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19...&blockType=G18
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-2-...&blockType=G15

It appears they're all on sale right now (the usually are on sale around the holidays). I use the 3/8" and 1/2" impacts for the car a lot. I use the drill frequently around the house. I almost never use the impact with the 1/4" female collar. That would be more useful if I was driving in a lot of screws (which I don't). But that combo pack is barely more than just the drill, so it seemed worth it.

EDIT: I'd only buy these for the current sale prices ($90 for driver and battery). For that price I think they're worth it. They're not nearly as powerful as the high end electric drivers, but those cost considerably more. For the amount of work I do, I think these are sufficient, and a good value. If I was doing more work, I think it would be worth spending a few hundred more on something stronger.

I also have several of the standard NiCad batteries. I only have one LiIon, but I use that the most by far. It is a lot lighter and easier to manage. I'll probably pick up some more of them in the future. The NiCad seem to perform fine, they're just a lot bulkier and heavier.

Do you think 1/4" causes less fatigue than 3/8" drive? I almost never use 1/4" drive. The only thing I can think of off hand is tightening down the EWG v-band clamps. All the common bolts are 10mm, 12mm, or 14mm and I use 3/8" drive for that. I even keep an 8mm on a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter in my "commonly used tools" bag.
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:09 AM   #1085
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Yea, 1/4" ratchet will greatly reduce fatigue. If you're just causally wrenching it doesn't matter as much, but I use 1/4" for most everything except exhaust stuff. I picked up a 1/4" snap on ratchet used off the tool truck for $40, I'd say it's my most used tool.

How much time do you get out of the nicad? Will it take off and put on 20 lugs? That's mostly what I would use it for.
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:17 AM   #1086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
Yea, 1/4" ratchet will greatly reduce fatigue. If you're just causally wrenching it doesn't matter as much, but I use 1/4" for most everything except exhaust stuff. I picked up a 1/4" snap on ratchet used off the tool truck for $40, I'd say it's my most used tool.

How much time do you get out of the nicad? Will it take off and put on 20 lugs? That's mostly what I would use it for.
How does a smaller size create less fatigue? That doesn't make sense to me. It seems like the small parts would have less leverage, so it would result in more force being needed. And I'd think my cheap tools would be much more likely to break.

Of all the full time mechanics I know, they all use 3/8" drive as their primary tool. I noticed you mentioned exhaust bolts as needing 3/8" drive. I consider those 14mm ones the most common ones for me to work on. Is that not the case for you?

I'm interested in hearing why you think the smaller tools reduce fatigue. You've mentioned it a few times but it doesn't seem to make sense to me.
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:40 AM   #1087
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I don't know specific weights or sizes so I'll just throw out numbers. Your 3/8" ratchet is 2lbs and 12" long, the 1/4" is 1lb and 6" long. Throws are accentuated on the 3/8" because it is used to create more torque. So not only are you carrying more weight, you are moving more weight and going further distance for the same amount of turns. I spend a lot of time on intake track related stuff and most things in the engine bay are easily taken care of with 1/4". I will use a flex head 3/8" for header, downpipe, catback and engine mounts. If I bring tools on the road I will only bring 3/8" because if you do need the extra leverage it is nice and no need to pack more than is needed, otherwise 1/4" is my go to.

Go buy a cheap 1/4" and give it a try. 3 of my best friends are mechanics and basically use 1/4" for 80% of their day. I always used 3/8" until I got this 1/4" snap on and it's really nice for lighter duty stuff.
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:01 AM   #1088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
I don't know specific weights or sizes so I'll just throw out numbers. Your 3/8" ratchet is 2lbs and 12" long, the 1/4" is 1lb and 6" long. Throws are accentuated on the 3/8" because it is used to create more torque. So not only are you carrying more weight, you are moving more weight and going further distance for the same amount of turns. I spend a lot of time on intake track related stuff and most things in the engine bay are easily taken care of with 1/4". I will use a flex head 3/8" for header, downpipe, catback and engine mounts. If I bring tools on the road I will only bring 3/8" because if you do need the extra leverage it is nice and no need to pack more than is needed, otherwise 1/4" is my go to.

Go buy a cheap 1/4" and give it a try. 3 of my best friends are mechanics and basically use 1/4" for 80% of their day. I always used 3/8" until I got this 1/4" snap on and it's really nice for lighter duty stuff.
Your ratchet weights are a bit off. It's more like 1/4 pound vs. 1/2 pound. Not a huge difference. The point on the length is the reason I don't like the small 1/4" drive stuff. If the handle is half as long, that means it take double the force pushing on the end of it to produce the same torque on the fastener. That's what tends to tire me out. As you can see by my photo above, I keep going longer and longer. It's easy to grip down on the handle once the bolt is broken loose, and with the flex head I often will end up using it with the handle straight like a driver.

Like you, I try to keep my tool set minimal. Especially for on the go. 3/8" is the choice here. I'd rather not need two sets of everything. For most of the stuff on the top of the engine bay I (and most mechanics I know) use the 3/8" drive electric impact the whole time. That is way less fatiguing and quicker. Instead of wrenching for 30-60 seconds you just spin it off in less than a second. I agree that 1/4" could work for most of the 10mm and 12mm bolts in the engine bay, but I don't see it as a big benefit and it basically doubles the tool set.

I do have a full set of 1/4" drive sockets and ratchets. I may have to try them someday. But I imagine I'll have double the number of tools to put away at the end of the day and I don't imagine it saving me any effort. If I had a real strong and small 1/4" drive electric impact that would be really nice, but I still think I would need 3/8" for a lot of things.
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:10 PM   #1089
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I agree with Ben on this subject. Having wrenched professionally on cars, industrial equipment and OTR Cummins engines for 10 of the last 13 years (currently at a desk jocky position and my joints thank me for it), I look into my tool box and realize I have twice as many 3/8 tools (ratchets, sockets, extensions etc) than I have 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 COMBINED!!! They are by far the most versatile size. I found myself breaking 1/4 drive sockets or stripping the teeth out of the ratchets (snap on for both, not a fan by the way) and the 1/2 stuff is just too chunky to get into most places. If you're going to start somewhere, 3/8 is where it's at.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:45 AM   #1090
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After a few revisions the FMIC end tank is redone. Chopped off the end completely and then Fobia welded on a flat plate. Off of that it is a 2.5" OD, 90 bend. Then it's just a 90 coupler onto the turbo.

It's a tight fit, and kind of a trick to get on, but I think it will work. There's not a lot of material for the coupler to grab onto, but I hope it is enough. It ended up looking pretty clean and simple, IMO.





Coupler installed:







Big enough intercooler?



Combo Pic:

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Old 01-21-2015, 10:15 AM   #1091
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any plans to make a "fog light cover panel air filter enclosure"? (would be pretty sweet)
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:36 AM   #1092
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Grr, I'm seeing all of your pictures as dead links
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:42 AM   #1093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eliezerrosario View Post
any plans to make a "fog light cover panel air filter enclosure"? (would be pretty sweet)
I have a filter that I think may fit behind the fog light cover, but I'm not sure yet. I'll probably run it open at the track. Maybe a velocity stack.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilspoons View Post
Grr, I'm seeing all of your pictures as dead links
Are you able to access www.benjohnsonphotography.com

Maybe the URL is blocked from wherever you're accessing from.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:01 AM   #1094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Are you able to access www.benjohnsonphotography.com

Maybe the URL is blocked from wherever you're accessing from.
I was at home so it's not like there was any content filtering going on, but I was not able to check. Pics are up again today at any rate.

Car's looking mean too, as usual. Sure that big 90 degree isn't going to cause any nasty turbulence or anything though? I know you've thought your options through and all but usually a longer, smoother path is better than a short one with a sharp bend when it comes to fluid (air) flow.

Last edited by evilspoons; 01-22-2015 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:05 PM   #1095
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It's not ideal but it's not the end of the world either. Some compressor covers come with a 90 elbow welded on there from the factory. In this situation making it fit is more important.
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:10 PM   #1096
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Spent a couple hours last night cutting up the bumper to fit the bigger core and the new piping. It is pretty close now but it will need a little more trimming. I also mounted the rest of the intercooler piping.









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Old 02-02-2015, 04:33 PM   #1097
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Was contemplating going with the kinugawa 60-1 with the billet wheel and 9 blade turbine but was told it was a low boost flowing turbo. I see you pushed it to around 30psi how did it like it and how was spool on the street?
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Old 02-02-2015, 05:53 PM   #1098
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Was contemplating going with the kinugawa 60-1 with the billet wheel and 9 blade turbine but was told it was a low boost flowing turbo. I see you pushed it to around 30psi how did it like it and how was spool on the street?
Here's the dyno plot:



Running no AVCS. KillerB header. EWG setup. 268 cams. Came on hard between 4,000 and 4,500rpms. Below that it was pretty weak. May be considered laggy to some, but it was still over a 3k powerband with what I revved it to.

Hard to compare to that FP Black when they don't publish any compressor maps for it. Overall I think that seems like a good turbo though. I just went with this one because it was the biggest that could be had with the stock size inlet. Much easier install.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:47 PM   #1099
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Fuel lines and fittings arrived yesterday.



I am getting some rails soon. I already have the TurboSmart FPR.

Priced out the oil return lines/fittings. I'll pick them up soon.



I believe this is where I'll be mounting the oil pump. Just need to drill a few more holes.

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Old 02-03-2015, 07:34 PM   #1100
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What a sweet car
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