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Old 01-19-2013, 05:57 AM   #3676
Aquamist
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I am not sure if your pump is still work based on your post. You post mentioned change fittings etc. This won't be a problem as we have all the metric compression fitting available to suit the 2d.

If the pump is a problem, you can perhaps try this:

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Old 01-19-2013, 06:08 AM   #3677
shaman
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Richard, can an HFS-6 Junction box be bought separately if broken or lost?
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:46 AM   #3678
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I am not sure if the HFS-6 has a junction box. Please explain more.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:06 AM   #3679
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Sorry, the box that all of the other connectors plug into. There are two, the flow control with FAV and flow sensor, and then the other "brain" that all of the CAT cables plug into.

The box in this pic

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...6/trimmers.gif

Also, how much would an extra gauge cost?
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:50 PM   #3680
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That is the controller. The controller circuit board is no longer available but we offer a repair service as we only have spares (electronic components).

You can check the gauge price on our new shop.

Last edited by Aquamist; 01-19-2013 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:38 PM   #3681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climbhigh09 View Post
MOAR FUN! (not really). I've got a 2011 WRX and none of the diagrams I've seen online really key up with what I'm seeing on the back of my ECU.

I have the 09' and '11 ECU wiring diagrams from Subaru Tech and the 2009 HFS-6 diagram; here is what I've got for the translations:

( legend: my wire #- 2009 pin function 2011 pin HFS-6 harnes color)

A6 MAP D20 *blue
B19 IGN-SW C30 red
B27 MAP SW C34 pink (not using this right now)
D11 FUEL INJ1 A10 green
D27 F/S SW A33 white-brown
black/yellow unused


I have hybrid boost control... I'd like to, when the system is off or fail safe triggered, drop to waist gate pressure. Does this achieve that? Or do I need to use the optional output from the FCM?

Also, as long as I do not wire in the pink- I won't throw CELs or drop into limp mode, right?
I didn't see the last two paragraphs sorry.

On the HFS-6, you have three failsafe output options:

1. MBC ......... use the MAC valve option (from the FCM)
2. EBC ......... use the white and brown wire (yellow harness)
3. Factory limp-home mode ......... use the map switch output (pink wire of the yellow harness)

The #3 option will not work if the system has a power cut.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:51 AM   #3682
shaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
That is the controller. The controller circuit board is no longer available but we offer a repair service as we only have spares (electronic components).

You can check the gauge price on our new shop.
Would the replacement HFS3-v2 be able to run the HFS6 flow control box? Found half of an HFS-6 kit for sale, and I am trying to figure out how to finish it with the controller and guage.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:42 AM   #3683
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It is most unusual item for sale, half a HFS-6!

The FCM module has the flow sensor decoder and valve driver built in compared to the HFS-3/4 with the two function built into the controller. The gauge
has also been improved over the HFS-6. The guage cable's RJ connector has also been changed to 10-position (v11) from 8-position (v10).

I think is would be better if you can get a used HFS3-v2 system rather try to marry up two systems together. It has zero resale value. I will be pull my hair out if you decided to pass the hybrid system onto the next guy.


I have given a "yes" advice before and regretted it.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:27 AM   #3684
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I was thinking about picking it up and keeping the pump as a backup, posting up the FCM and wiring as spares. You don't want me to use the race pump stuff so I am looking at other stuff.

I have contacted the seller to see if the controller was found, but haven't heard back. Overseas and all communication takes time. You know what I mean.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:07 AM   #3685
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I am amazed that you are so familiar of the aquamist systems made over the years.

Once you have located the controller, send it back to me if it is not a v3. We still have electronic components to upgrade it. Make 100% sure the cable of the FCM is not cut as we cannot repair/extend a cut cable from 100% water proof.

Time lag is a problem for me too.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:00 PM   #3686
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It got sold before the guy got ahold of me. Oh well, the accumulator would have been nice to have, and the Spec C tank would have probably sold for what they wanted for the whole lot.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:59 PM   #3687
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we still have stock of the accumulator but have no plan for it.
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:13 PM   #3688
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I'm trying to install a hfs-5 dds3v10 into my 04 wrx I need wiring diagrams for the failsafes and which ones are best to hook up also which pins do I tap in the ecu if possible I need a diagram for that and I need to know what jets for 22-25 psi and around 350hp
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:34 AM   #3689
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This one should work

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Old 02-05-2013, 08:44 AM   #3690
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great people over there at aquamist very helpful answered my email very fast also thanks a whole lot
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:07 PM   #3691
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Default Blowing Pump Inline Fuse

Any idea why this keeps blowing. Would happen if I switch the gauge/system on while under boost, now it just happens all the time? Everything looks fine but...
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:58 AM   #3692
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Is your pump installed in the engine bay?

The most commonest reason is water ingression into the pump. Once the pump motor bearing is corroded, it will put extra load on the motor and draw excess current.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:50 PM   #3693
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It's right in front of the washer tank in a GR. So could see moisture but should be pretty protected in the fender well there. How susceptible are they to moisture? Pump is just over a year old...

Would I check pump condition by testing it's resistance? What should that be?
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:06 PM   #3694
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That's a pretty common place for them...
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:00 AM   #3695
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The pump itself is very well insulated. But the cable gland is not. Water trickles down the cable and gets into the pump.

You need to separate the pump head off the motor and check the bearing.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:24 PM   #3696
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which jet should i install want to run 22 psi on 750cc injectors on a blouch 20g w/ supporting mods (2006 sti) hsf-3 kit also which resistor should i install
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:29 PM   #3697
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** single port meth injection and the pump is mounted to my sub box same height if not lower than my tank
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:02 PM   #3698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sti20g View Post
which jet should i install want to run 22 psi on 750cc injectors on a blouch 20g w/ supporting mods (2006 sti) hsf-3 kit also which resistor should i install
You have 3000cc/min of fuel. For M50/W50, you need to flow 600cc/min. It look like a 0.8mm + 0.9mm jet. Use a 0.7mm restrictor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sti20g View Post
** single port meth injection and the pump is mounted to my sub box same height if not lower than my tank
It is good.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:44 AM   #3699
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I am putting back to use my good old 2D system to spray 100% water on 98RON with small sized garrett 30 turbo on TMIC
injectors are 1000cc, and currently I have 0.7mm jet installed in the TMIC
Will it be ok, or do I absolutely have to put a bigger one in there?
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:26 PM   #3700
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Hey, greetings. It has been a long time.

What was your fuel injector size before?
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