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Old 03-23-2010, 11:47 AM   #1
Maverick7531
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Default Oil Cooler Alternate Location??

I am thinking about taking an oil cooler and installing it somewhere other than off of a sandwich plate at the oil filter. I was wondering if anyone thought this idea was a good one, or a poor idea, and for what reason/s?

I have an oil cooler that would be easy to install in the down stream oil drain from the turbo. (That rubber hose that comes straight down out of the turbo.) It would be easy to just take that 3 1/2 inch hose out and run a line from the turbo(above) around to the cooler, then run the line back up, and connect it to the spout that it originally drains to.

The only thing i can think of that might hinder this from working is if there is enough oil(volume/pressure) coming out of the turbo to fill the oil cooler and make it effective. Just my thought because of how small the oil line in is!
Or, that it would be running down to the cooler, and then back up against gravity to the spout to go back down into the crank case!

By the way... Im in the process of doing an 05 STI swap(ecu/motor/wires/fuel pump) into my 02 WRX... so Im doing a lot of little things while the motor is out and is easily accessable! Point being that the turbo is a VF39!

SOMEONE, please shed some light on this for me!
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:18 PM   #2
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Won't work, and not really a good idea. You want the turbo drain to be a smooth, unrestricted path. Not to mention, there isn't much pressure there. You want to install the oil cooler at a pressure point i.e. sandwich adapter. It really is the best place to put it for all practical purposes.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:33 PM   #3
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I always thought of doing this mod too. But my question isnt necessarily a question of WHERE, as your looking to get that filled. My question is, is it effective?
I am setting my suspension up for AutoX, my engine is already Stage4+++++, and I think in addition to that since there will be alot of rhomping on the car at somewhat low speeds a more effective oil cooling system is in order.
I was thinking of something along the lines of an off the shelf transmission fluid cooler from vato-zone or advance to keep things simple. like a 12x6" cooler mounted in front of the radiators.
Now really, is extra oil cooling necessary in my application? Im setting up for AutoX as mentioned, most my driving is 40miles/day highway commute in Louisiana where the lowest avg. weather is like 30F and highest is 110F.
So a very important application question im thinking about is if this cooler is all mounted up and seeing 30F (and the 70MPH wind chill!) will the oil be inefficiently cold?
Should the system be bypassed in winters?
What are yalls thoughts? Be sure to answer the OPs question too if you can as my question is so a hi-jack (but doesnt deserve its own thread as its along the lines of OP)
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:41 PM   #4
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Well... oil is most effective between 260 - 280F... but even in the winter the internal temp of oil still reaches high numbers. The oil does usually stay at a stable temp because of the liquid cooling system, and with that being said it generally doesnt get too hot, or too cold. I really don't think that even in very cold circumstances it will cool it too much, but I know that it will be able to pull the extra heat out of the motor when it gets too hot.

I have a auto trans oil cooler that I'm planning on using as the Engine oil cooler just like you were saying.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Can anyone think of an alternate location to hook up oil lines for an oil cooler besides a sandwich filter location?

What do you guys think about hooking up an oil cooler from the oil line going in/right BEFORE it gets to the turbo to keep that as cool as possible... instead of right after it in the turbo where it drains back to the case???

Don't you think that once oil filled the cooler that the pressure would be the same as without it, and constant?
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:59 PM   #5
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Why are you so insistent on not using a sandwich adapter? As has already been stated, that is the most effective spot, and really the only viable option. Also, if the car will be used in cooler climates get a sandwich adapter with a built in thermostat.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:40 PM   #6
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I am just trying to tap in to peoples thoughts-brainstorm a little... maybe learn something that I don't know. Thats why along with a general question I have specifics... because even if someone has an opinion about this, if they answer my specifics then I will be able to make an informed decison, not just take someone elses reasoning... I'll know for myself what I want to do!

Ya know what I mean? I don't just want to do something because everyone else does it... Yeah, sometimes it might be the best idea, but I want to think through all of my other options instead of just being told "No, Don't do it!"
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:10 AM   #7
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I applaud you in questioning the norm. How else are things innovated when you dont question WHY something is done the way it usually is. Whether its been done that way by means of thousands of hours of research by engineers or whether its done that way because a bunch of car guys seem to think it would work best its good that your doing the thinking.
I am interested in actually testing the cooling when I hook mine up. I have temp probes and access to a meter to graph the cooling. Shouldnt be too hard to test both different potential tap-in spots. Ill post here my findings- wont be for a while now as the car is under the knife.
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:34 AM   #8
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I'm not going to get into this as I have limited knowledge.

But...You need to look at the volume of oil flowing at whatever point you are going to tap and route at and also at what point the oil is going back into the motor.

I have a strong inclination to say that the reason the oil filter/sandwich location is used is becuase that oil is directly from the pan/pump and going into the motor/heads/turbo..Its pointless to cool oil that is going to a pan as its going to be reheated as its compressed again through the pump.
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:54 PM   #9
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Have you considered installing an aftermarket pan such as the Killer B Motorsport oil pan? It will allow for you to have a 6-quart total capacity inclusive of the oil in the oil filter?

More oil means more fluid to absorb and distribute the heat value from the engine?
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Old 03-24-2010, 01:30 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Have you considered installing an aftermarket pan such as the Killer B Motorsport oil pan? It will allow for you to have a 6-quart total capacity inclusive of the oil in the oil filter?

More oil means more fluid to absorb and distribute the heat value from the engine?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that just mean it'll take longer for the oil to reach high temperatures, but sustained load will still get it equally as hot?
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:45 PM   #11
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that just mean it'll take longer for the oil to reach high temperatures, but sustained load will still get it equally as hot?
Exactly correct... maybe an extra 5 mins of cooler temps... then guess what-IT TAKES LONGER TO GET THAT MUCH OIL COOL!!!

Either way, my thoughts are to come up with an effective oil cooling solution that I (or anybody really) can install with equipment found in thier own garages at NO COST!
I didn't mention that in my original post... but that wasn't part of my question... it's just my underlying hope/goal.
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by relliMmoT View Post
I applaud you in questioning the norm. How else are things innovated when you dont question WHY something is done the way it usually is. Whether its been done that way by means of thousands of hours of research by engineers or whether its done that way because a bunch of car guys seem to think it would work best its good that your doing the thinking.
I am interested in actually testing the cooling when I hook mine up. I have temp probes and access to a meter to graph the cooling. Shouldnt be too hard to test both different potential tap-in spots. Ill post here my findings- wont be for a while now as the car is under the knife.
AWSOME!!!!

I was hoping for some advice or thoughts(not opinions,) but I wasn't expecting a science experiment!!!
That would be great to post info like this here-who knows... maybe the results will show that an oil cooler installed adjacent to the turbo is just as effective!?!

After thinking about this concept for a day or two, I've formed a hypothesis about one of the locations.
??? If the cooler was installed directly before it reaches the turbo it wouldn't cause any pressure issues because the oil is already being pumped up-hill towards the turbo. Therefore, once the cooler fills up, and has constant flow, it would be just the same as without it in the system. Also, I feel that it would cool the oil sufficiently before it reaches the turbo, hence, keeping the oil temps at a nominal temperature... allowing it to function as best as possible! ???

Also, I'm not so sure that a cooler would work after the turbo, as it could hold up the draining of the oil, and possibly hinder the effectiveness of the bearings!

?THOUGHTS ANYBODY? - Who's got a guess as to what the results will show?

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Old 03-24-2010, 09:49 PM   #13
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I'm not going to get into this as I have limited knowledge.

But...You need to look at the volume of oil flowing at whatever point you are going to tap and route at and also at what point the oil is going back into the motor.

I have a strong inclination to say that the reason the oil filter/sandwich location is used is becuase that oil is directly from the pan/pump and going into the motor/heads/turbo..Its pointless to cool oil that is going to a pan as its going to be reheated as its compressed again through the pump.
I know exactly what you are trying to propose... however, FLOW(of course some things control flow) is the only factor that will impact the effect of an oil cooler.
Whether or not you are cooling the oil by "X" at a point where it is Extremeley hot, or you cool it by "X" at a point that is near ambient(not that this happens,) you are still cooling the total oil with the same NET IMPACT.

ex: Lets say "X" above is equal to 40*(ability of oil cooler)

320* - 40* = 280* (high temp with oil coolers ability subtracted)
200* - 40* = 160* (Low temp with oil coolers ability subtracted)

This will be true as long as the rate of flow is equal in each situation.
However if you are cooling the oil right before a crutial structure(ie. turbo) then it's specific performance may be improved... but regaurdless, if the flow is equal, than the total temp of the oil will remain the same. BUT BUT BUT the productivity of the motor may change if the turbo would(for example) be cooled to optimal temp, and spin more freely(because the bearings are more properly lubricated,) allowing faster spooling and potentially more boost for a longer period of time(throuougt RPM range!)
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:48 PM   #14
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OK, here's some advice. Don't waste your time with an oil cooler, it's not needed unless you are doing some endurance racing. I have an 02 WRX with an oil temp gauge and have NEVER in 8 yrs seen my oil temps get above 105C. The car was a daily driver, on the track, and now gets to stay in the garage until the nice weather.

Good luck with your project......
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:03 PM   #15
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if you are really determined to relocate the oil cooler, why not just install an aftermarket setup? It still uses the oil filter sandwich adapter, but it just uses it to run lines to an oil cooler that is mounted at the front of the car. This would give you ultimate cooling capability, but...like everyone else said...why do you need to cool your oil that much. Your car will actually run worse if the oil is not hot enough. You will find yourself blowing all kinds of oil seals as well as have a lot more blow by in this scenerio...just keep the stock setup unless you are tracking the car on a regular basis.
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
if you are really determined to relocate the oil cooler, why not just install an aftermarket setup? It still uses the oil filter sandwich adapter, but it just uses it to run lines to an oil cooler that is mounted at the front of the car. This would give you ultimate cooling capability, but...like everyone else said...why do you need to cool your oil that much. Your car will actually run worse if the oil is not hot enough. You will find yourself blowing all kinds of oil seals as well as have a lot more blow by in this scenerio...just keep the stock setup unless you are tracking the car on a regular basis.
Ok... clearly people don't read the entire thread. If they did there would not be comments like the one above. PLEASE people read the treads entire content, not just a post or 2. If you don't you have no idea what your talking about.

I stated before that I don't want to spend money. That I am trying to get people to think, and come up with a possible alternative, and we need to stop having people come in and say the same thing over when I repeatedly say that I don't want(and more importantly-don't NEED) anyones opinions!

On a personal note about the oil cooler going on my personal car.... well, to be completely honest I drive like an A$$ Hole... not really but that is what a lot of peoples opinions are who don't know how to drive...
Honestly, my normal cruising speed is usually 90mph, and I always weave through traffic. I need the best possible protection in my daily dirver that I can get... Cuz I don't think there is a car out there that can handle me on a daily basis. Ive gone through 3 motors, and 2 trannys(now moved on to an 04 because it's stronger) in the last 2 years(90k miles)... YEAH-REALLY. Not that I race... cuz I really don't-I just get where I'm going fast. ---and that is with oil changes with Amsoil every 3k, gear oil changes every 15k with Lucas/heavy oil stabilizer, diff changes when tranny is changed, rad flushes regularly with redline supercoolant added always(prestone coolant/antifreeze-mostly water in summer).... point being I do a crazy amount of maintainance on my car-I just really need to keep things as cool, clean, and smooth as possible!

Not to mention that there is no difference in an aftermarket setup, and using an oil cooler from somthing else(which in theory is AFTER market.) Plus the cooler I have is probably better than most you can buy-It is 9"x11"x3/4" with 27 rows, and so many fins if I tried to spray paint it a different color it would ruin the cooler because it would clog it!
And who cares about buying AFTERMARKET stuff... I Make almost everything on my car - BOV/Clutch/Racing Radiator/and the Air filter in my custom intake - aside, every mod on my car was fabricated by myself! ( and before I blew my EJ205 I was running 285hp/305tq with NO TUNING and all bolt-on items that I created that were probably better than a lot of ones you can buy!)

Motto - Drive fast
Lesson to live by - Hesitation kills!!! Do it, and do it NOW! (and you better use you're god damned signal!)
2nd Lesson to live by - Stay out of my way... that one is for you to learn!

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Old 03-25-2010, 12:48 AM   #17
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Not that it would be better than the sandwich adapter but you could always run it like how they run rear end coolers on some race cars. Weld two bungs into the oil pan, get a small electric pump, and pump the oil through a cooler and back into the pan. It would be easy to use an electronic thermo switch to turn the pump on and off, so it only runs when the temp is hot enough to need it. With a setup like this you wouldn't need to worry about the pressure loss due to the adapter, lines, and cooler that you get with a regular setup, since it is on a completely different circuit from the motors oiling system. The only problems I can see are you may need to add a few more baffles to the oil pan, and use some check valves in the hoses so when its not running the oil doesn't drain out of the lines and cooler. Since this would over fill your pan and could cause the pump to not operate correctly when it starts full of air.
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:56 AM   #18
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The funny thing is, everyone is trying to tell you in the nicest way possible to quit wasting your time, and focus on things that really matter. FYI, i did read your whole thread...maybe you shouldn't ask for people's advice if you aren't going to accept it. So far, you started this thread looking for some advice. When the advice you get isn't what you want to hear, you insult the people who were actually nice enough to take time to answer your questions. Maybe, instead of wasting your time trying to come up with a FREE way to reinvent the wheel, which is completely pointless, you should be thinking of a way to stop breaking your cars and learn to drive them fast without destroying them. Driving fast doesn't always equal breaking stuff. For someone that joined this site 2 months ago, you are pretty ungreatful of other people's time and knowledge. Maybe you should go back to the newbie forums until you are ready to actually listen to people's advice that is given to you...or at least respectfully decline to accept it instead of being a total *******...

...but what do i know...i am just another unknowledgeable guy on this forum...good luck buddy...next time click the little search button before you ask questions like this, and maybe you won't get all these "dumb people" answering in your sacred thread...
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:04 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by FourOnTheFloor65 View Post
Not that it would be better than the sandwich adapter but you could always run it like how they run rear end coolers on some race cars. Weld two bungs into the oil pan, get a small electric pump, and pump the oil through a cooler and back into the pan. It would be easy to use an electronic thermo switch to turn the pump on and off, so it only runs when the temp is hot enough to need it. With a setup like this you wouldn't need to worry about the pressure loss due to the adapter, lines, and cooler that you get with a regular setup, since it is on a completely different circuit from the motors oiling system. The only problems I can see are you may need to add a few more baffles to the oil pan, and use some check valves in the hoses so when its not running the oil doesn't drain out of the lines and cooler. Since this would over fill your pan and could cause the pump to not operate correctly when it starts full of air.
SEE... this is what I'm talking about
Now even though it is somewhat off suggested topic, it is still in line with exactly what this discussion is about!
Great Idea, However the ease of installation is not as simple as what I am trying to suggest. Although if you did hook up lines to the pan, It would not be hard to wire an electric pump with a toggle swith and a separate Oil temp sensor/gauge to know when to turn it on. And you would definitely need to run one way valves in the unless the pump that you were using sealed itself when it was off!
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:12 AM   #20
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The funny thing is, everyone is trying to tell you in the nicest way possible to quit wasting your time, and focus on things that really matter. FYI, i did read your whole thread...maybe you shouldn't ask for people's advice if you aren't going to accept it. So far, you started this thread looking for some advice. When the advice you get isn't what you want to hear, you insult the people who were actually nice enough to take time to answer your questions. Maybe, instead of wasting your time trying to come up with a FREE way to reinvent the wheel, which is completely pointless, you should be thinking of a way to stop breaking your cars and learn to drive them fast without destroying them. Driving fast doesn't always equal breaking stuff. For someone that joined this site 2 months ago, you are pretty ungreatful of other people's time and knowledge. Maybe you should go back to the newbie forums until you are ready to actually listen to people's advice that is given to you...or at least respectfully decline to accept it instead of being a total *******...

...but what do i know...i am just another unknowledgeable guy on this forum...good luck buddy...next time click the little search button before you ask questions like this, and maybe you won't get all these "dumb people" answering in your sacred thread...
Don't get me wrong... I'm not trying to insult anyone... especially somone who makes a comment that is acutally realavent to what the discussion is about, but it seems you have the wrong idea.
I don't want advice. As the thread states, I am asking for a group effort on an alternate locacation. Opinions are BAD. Hypothyses are GOOD. Trying to force your opinion on me... again, BAD! Trying to give me a lecture... BAD!

Please everyone just focus on the topic, I am sorry if I seem like I am trying to supervise... believe me, the last thing I wanna do is write stuff like this-when I could be writting a resoponse to a legitimate post from somone with a new idea/not a suggestion-opinion-or thought on what people should do with their time!
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:17 AM   #21
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yes...but this goes back to what everyone else has been saying...How is this setup any better than the stock setup? Really, with a setup like this, all you have done is relocate the factory cooler. The design you are talking about here uses the same concept as the factory cooler. The stock one just uses the thermostat for the radiator as its "on/off" so to speak. The thing is, all the time and effort spent making something like this isn't going to net you any significant gains in street driving. Not only that, but you are adding an electric pump into the mix. How often do you think fuel pumps go bad? How often do you think solenoids don't work properly? Now you are talking about adding this risk into your oil system. You had better come up with some kind of fail safe while your at it...if the pump fails or the solenoid fails in the wrong position, you will have yet another motor that is going to bite the dust.
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Old 03-25-2010, 08:09 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Maverick7531 View Post
=It would not be hard to wire an electric pump with a toggle swith and a separate Oil temp sensor/gauge to know when to turn it on
Or take out the guesswork like he said and use an thermo switch. Just like a thermostat it would switch when the oil temp reached a certain degree and viola current flowing to the relay powering the pump. You could EASILY wire in a switch as well as the automatic thermo turn-on too.
I love this idea actually, all of it. Necessary or not its a fun project and has an extremely low chance of catastrophic failure in that it is not acutally tied to your factory oil system! Two tubes off fittings placed on the oil pan, to and from the pump and radiator.
A really quick search turned http://www.amazon.com/6-5L-1-7gal-Cooling-submersible-Water/dp/B002PDBRXE this up. Whether or not 1.7gal/min is sufficient is beyond me but its cheap and weighs under a pound. Im sure better would be found if someone gets serious about trying this but hey it took a minute on google
If you dont want to drill your oil pan you could even hook it up to suck oil from a fitting you replace the drain plug with (still removable of course) and you could have the oil re-enter the system tapped @ the tubing leading to the oil filter.

But to those who have an oil temp gauge and actually track/beat on their cars: What does your temp reach out of the norm and for how long?
Im now thinking about going to Harbor Freight and picking up one of their $20 automotive oil temp gauge/sensor kits to see for myself. No hard feelings if its not necessary because its only a $20 kit...
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
yes...but this goes back to what everyone else has been saying...How is this setup any better than the stock setup? Really, with a setup like this, all you have done is relocate the factory cooler. The design you are talking about here uses the same concept as the factory cooler. The stock one just uses the thermostat for the radiator as its "on/off" so to speak. The thing is, all the time and effort spent making something like this isn't going to net you any significant gains in street driving. Not only that, but you are adding an electric pump into the mix. How often do you think fuel pumps go bad? How often do you think solenoids don't work properly? Now you are talking about adding this risk into your oil system. You had better come up with some kind of fail safe while your at it...if the pump fails or the solenoid fails in the wrong position, you will have yet another motor that is going to bite the dust.
But there is no factory cooler that runs a oil to air radiator... however I do know what you are trying to say about a fail-safe.
I however am not really interested in that idea myself, but good thinking.
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:19 PM   #24
Maverick7531
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WOW... 1.7GALLONS / Minute! That is an enormous amount of flow!

In a Walboro 255 Litre/Hour fuel pump there is a lot of flow, but in comparison:
There is 3.8L in a gallon, so...
1.7 x 3.8 = 6.46
6.46 x 60 (mins in an hour) = 387.6Litres/Hour!!!
To be honest, that much flow in cooler that would just keep circulating the oil through the pan which is somewhat of an isolated location because the rate of circulation would be faster than the circulation through the motor's oil system, therefore it would be cooling the oil faster than it could heat up causing it to be cooled too drastically! Unless of course a switch/thermostat was routed in line... then this would be a very quick and effective oil cooling system!
But, completely unnecessarily rapid. Flow rates at half of that magnitude or even less would be sufficient!

Last edited by Maverick7531; 03-25-2010 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:38 PM   #25
relliMmoT
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Yeah I guess it would cycle almost all the oil through its cooling system in theory. Im assuming you can run the pump for a good deal of time considering its a pump designed for constant-on and smooth quiet operation. The power consumption is 500ma (.5amps*12volts=only 6watts!). Ive got a very similar Taco pump that has its own dedicated solar module hooked to it (so its only on when the sun is up) that runs the ethylene glycol through my solar hot water system on the house. I can hear the pump in the house if everything is off and im listening for it but other than that its chillin'. It only needs 20watts, so it didnt even take that much- its just a 20W Kyocera module powering it. I would snag that pump for testing this system but it flows like 30LPM haha.
If the system were to be that efficient you probably would not want to use my second idea of flowing oil out of the drain plug and into the pre-filter hose. It would outflow the engine creating a stoppage of flow from the engine into the filter and possibly backflow somewhere. From and To the oil pan would be the best way then.
But the pumps rating of 1.7gal/min is for a low viscosity fluid such as water, glycol, or molybdenum silicone coolants. Pumping hot oil in there will slow it down a bit. How we would quantify that without buying one and testing it with some jugs of oil is beyond me but its an assumption.
I dont think the engine would mind if it were experiencing a temperature drop from the oil cooling rapidly IF the system ended up being that efficient. Its not like were pumping the oil that is cooled straight into the engine for use, were pumping it into about 4qt reservoir. Even the freezing cold oil that is pumped into the pan from what has been sitting in the cooling system/radiator would have a shocking effect IMO- it'd probably just be a bonus.
I was thinking if I were to test this setup without fully committing to it with installing plugs in my oil pan a good way to test-rig would be to flow oil out from the drain plug (although a 20mm fitting for a hose will be an interesting find) and back into the system through a hose running in through the oil fill cap.
I so wish my car werent under the knife so deeply right now, I would love to start getting some temp readings to asses the feasibility of the system.

I dont see whats wrong with doing it like every other car and manufacturer does it by just dedicating a little radiator inline with the factory hosing or using an oil cooler sandwich, which can be had for >$20. Less cost than the pump idea, weighs less (even though the pump is only 10oz), no wiring, and already widely used. I love to entertain the possibilities of the idea but we really may be reinventing the wheel on this. You can pry an oil/trans/powersteering cooler off any big old car at a junkyard if you dont want to spend a lot. BTW Its how the JDM STi and any aftermarket Subaru kit does it too, lines from sandwich.

Hey this reminds me, its going to be off-topic here but how is the power steering system on Subarus? I was auto-Xing in my Audi for a while and I fixed its sloppy overheating power steering system by replacing the factory cooler (which was essentially a single metal finless line that ran across the face of the radiator) with one of the vato-zone oil coolers. Worked great; no longer experienced system fade due to high temps while @ track.

Last edited by relliMmoT; 03-25-2010 at 02:47 PM.
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