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10-03-2015, 05:31 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 400873
Join Date: Sep 2014
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:2010 STi Black |
How to remove Cam Gear Bolt. All methods.
So, as I encountered this problem like everyone else, I also happened to do many things that essentially were a waste of my time, including an hour or more just searching through the forums and searching through like 5 or 6 threads just to find a solution. So, I've decided to compile all the methods I've read about and how easy/difficult they are as well as how much they might cost you to do. Hopefully this saves you some time as well as some money in the long run.
1. How to remove the bolt without the Subaru specialty tools from Company 23 or anyone else, that is, by using the timing belt method, Moderate difficulty, longer set up time, the belt will probably slip once or twice before you get it just right. Requires more than one set of vice grips. This video demonstrates it well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WPpfISk3cg2. Using Company 23 or similar Subaru specialty tools. In the FSM, they will be mentioned as "Use the ST to lock the cam sprocket". I've found the tools to be cheapest when purchased through Rallysportdirect. They will cost $50 and $40 for the intake and exhaust tools, respectively. Easy-ish difficulty. Holding them in place may require another person or something rigid to prevent the cam gear from turning. You might consider reading the FSM here. It's pretty simple to get everything on there. Each one only goes on one way, essentially. The Exhaust cam tool can be flipped. In general, though, this should be an issue in your attempt to find a good place to lock it in place, as you should have also moved your crankshaft to a central location so no piston is at or near TDC. This allows you the freedom to rotate your cam shafts to what angle you need. Now, chances are, one or two bolts are stuck/stripped. Once you get to this point, there are two ways to go about it. Either with a welder, or without. 3. With a welder: See this video from Outfront Motorsports. It will cost you $5 per axle nut. And as he mentions, it is possible to do with the engine in the car. 4. Without a welder: http://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Carbide-Tipped-Conventional-16/dp/B00ARI1TK0/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1443905734&sr=1-1&keywords=7%2F16%22+carbide&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A3071286011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011 This was $26. And is available on Amazon Prime. You can work these drill bits pretty hard with a hand drill, which is why I recommend them over any other drill bit. It is very hard to dull a tungsten carbide drill bit. It will take you about 5 minutes to drill out the bolt. The head of the bolt should spin off on the drill bit, allowing you to remove the cam gear and then extract the bolt by hand. Yes, you will be able to remove what is left by hand.I do not recommend using an easy out, a tool to remove stripped lug nuts, or anything like that. It's more effort than it's worth, and it just isn't worth the money either. Thanks, and good luck with removing that bolt.
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10-14-2015, 11:49 AM | #2 |
Scooby Newbie
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Oakville
Vehicle:2008 WRX Grey |
Thanks for the tips
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10-14-2015, 12:16 PM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 167794
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: o-k-l-a-h-o-m-a
Vehicle:08 500+whp sti |
solid post and very useful info for those who haven't learned these things the hard way
I use the tools or a welder now, and the tools make life MUCH easier. |
03-23-2018, 05:46 PM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 482365
Join Date: Feb 2018
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The Easy way to remove the 10mm allen head bolt
Here is a short video showing how to remove as long as nothing has been stripped. Super easy. I hope it helps. ~shaun
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03-24-2018, 09:56 AM | #5 | |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
Quote:
Note, if clamping a timing belt like that, I would likely NOT use it on an engine again. Maybe keep an old belt around just for this task. |
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04-04-2018, 06:19 PM | #6 |
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Member#: 484202
Join Date: Apr 2018
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What would the reasoning behind not just using an impact gun while the belts on, then hand thread it back in before taking the belt off? I've managed to get away with this technique on a few cars
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04-04-2018, 10:25 PM | #7 | |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
Quote:
Engine out of the car, not everyone has an impact gun. Torquing the bolts up on assembly, impact gun won't do it. |
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10-17-2018, 04:14 PM | #8 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 488200
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Brookline, NH
Vehicle:2006 WRX TR World Rally Blue |
Belt on - Problem?
Any reason not to leave the belt on while using one of those Company 23 Cam holding tools to hold the cam for cam bolt removal (I already have the holding tools, I know there are other ways that I could have done this, but what can I say, I like tools)?
Most people I see do this on YouTube already have the belt off when they're removing the cam bolts, but I feel like the potential to slip and spin a cam/crash valves would be a lot less if I just left the belt on to crack the bolts loose. Of course, I could just unload the cams and then this shouldn't be a problem, but I like the idea of keeping the belt on and am trying to better understand why more people don't do it that way. |
10-17-2018, 10:06 PM | #9 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 469585
Join Date: Jun 2017
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Vehicle:2009 STi White |
Quote:
This is how I did it... Took me less than 5 minutes start to finish. Even resued the bolts. |
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10-17-2018, 10:33 PM | #10 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 488200
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Brookline, NH
Vehicle:2006 WRX TR World Rally Blue |
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10-29-2018, 01:34 PM | #11 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 493342
Join Date: Oct 2018
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10-29-2018, 01:59 PM | #12 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11652
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:'18 Focus RS Red '70 Porsche 914/6 |
Any comments on this video?
It sounds like all these other methods put too much strain on the internal pin on the cam gear... and FYI I've always used the old belt wrapped around the pulleys method. |
12-28-2018, 02:48 AM | #13 | |
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Member#: 481801
Join Date: Feb 2018
Vehicle:2011 STI |
Quote:
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02-19-2019, 10:44 AM | #14 |
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: Shingletown Ca
Vehicle:1995 Impreza White, green, |
Best method is the welder.
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02-19-2019, 02:22 PM | #15 |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
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02-19-2019, 02:23 PM | #16 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 435142
Join Date: Nov 2015
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Commerce Twp, MI
Vehicle:2004 STi Java Black Pearl |
Just thought I'd add to this that once you do get those SOBs out, switching over to TiC's FU cam bolts makes the next go around MUCH easier
https://www.iagperformance.com/TiC-F...01-03-0033.htm |
03-03-2019, 01:49 PM | #17 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 316863
Join Date: Apr 2012
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Southern Ontario
Vehicle:2001 2.5RS Red |
In process of doing this on my old EJ205. Is using the hex flats on the camshaft not the best option ????
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03-04-2019, 11:01 AM | #18 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 488200
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Brookline, NH
Vehicle:2006 WRX TR World Rally Blue |
Probably not
Quote:
I used these tools from Company23 (not affiliated with them): Intake: https://www.amazon.com/Company23-Sub.../dp/B06XT7X48K Exhaust: https://www.amazon.com/Company23-Sub.../dp/B00OV8XZ0O I also bought a high-quality allen socket (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and was glad I did, as the bolt was TIGHT! Note: I wouldn't use an impact on those bolts (cams can be fragile)... Lastly, the intake tool from Company 23 apparently puts a lot of pressure on pins internal to the AVCS system. While I had no issues, the OEM tool, which can be found here (Subaru OEM #499977500) does not place pressure on the pins and, IMHO, is a bit safer to use. |
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03-17-2019, 01:08 AM | #19 |
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Member#: 499163
Join Date: Mar 2019
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[quote=wobbletop;45827668]Any comments on this video?
Excellent video make sure you get the tool as shown from subaru or identical aftermarket (CTA Tools 7615 Camshaft holder). Not either company 23 tools, they let the avcs internally turn as you undo the allen bolt, this puts pressure on the locking position pin which breaks or bends the pin stopping avcs from working properly. |
03-18-2019, 12:54 PM | #20 |
Scooby Specialist
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: New Mexico
Vehicle:2009 STi Blue Blue |
lol wish i had found this sooner...had 1 stick real good, stripped it out, easy out broke (was a big one too lol) my stripped head sockets couldn't grab it well enough so used my carbide bit to get it out...
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08-09-2019, 04:19 PM | #21 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 408438
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: OH, USA
Vehicle:2016 WRX STi CBS |
What's the thought process behind using the valve grinding compound in the OP? Do you apply the compound to the socket head so it reduces the chance of rounding out the bolt head?
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