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Old 01-17-2019, 07:44 AM   #26
bp05obxt
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Default 04 fxt killed 3 turbos..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakenbake View Post
If my current oil lines are easy enough to clean, i might stick with them for now. And upgrade to some nice braided hose in the future.

I read somewhere i should make sure all internal and external oil lines are removed and flushed of any old oil buildup, including the return line and something about oil lines behind the timing cover?

Also ive been looking into sandwich plates to delete the oil cooler and i have a couple questions.

Will i need to buy an adapter to use one or does the oil cooler bolt work with any sandwich plate? Forgive me if that sounds stupid as im going off of pictures here.

Also any recommended brands/ kits anyones used? Cheaper the better but i still would like a quality lasting product.

Also the coolant lines going to the oil cooler. if simply deleted them would that mess with the directional flow of coolant in the engine creating hot spots? Would it be best to simply run a line from one to the other?

Thanks for everyone's help


You can remove the oil lines and clean them my concern is that there is material internally that would not be flushed from the engine. This would possibly cause the same issues you have had. That said again a filter would help avoid it possibly.

Deleting the oil cooler can help remove a contaminated area, but it won’t overall eliminate the issue.

Best way to delete the oil cooler is:

OEM N/A oil filter adapter, OEM N/A plug to replace the water nipple that comes from the block and proceed to remove the hardline crossover water pipe. Replace the water pump with a OEM 2-port (pn: X2111AA250) water pump if you are willing to do it in the car. Otherwise the easiest way is to use a brass Pex plumbing plug or something similar to terminate the unused suction port with some sort of hose clamps (I have done this using the pex plug and OETIKER clamps without any issues). The OEM parts to do this cost less than $25-$50 new not including a water pump, and would be $5 or so at a junkyard.
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Last edited by bp05obxt; 01-17-2019 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 01-17-2019, 11:07 PM   #27
Jakenbake
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Originally Posted by bp05obxt View Post
.
Best way to delete the oil cooler i
OEM N/A oil filter adapter, OEM N/A plug to replace the water nipple that comes from the block and proceed to remove the hardline crossover water pipe. Replace the water pump with a OEM 2-port (pn: X2111AA250) water pump if you are willing to do it in the car. Otherwise the easiest way is to use a brass Pex plumbing plug or something similar to terminate the unused suction port with some sort of hose clamps (I have done this using the pex plug and OETIKER clamps without any issues). The OEM parts to do this cost less than $25-$50 new not including a water pump, and would be $5 or so at a junkyard.
This is the fitting? Ill see if they have it at napa, for an N/a
https://www.oakos.com/15018AA050.htm
Not sure if this is also the same
https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2004_Forester-X-25L-AT/STUD-OIL-FILTER---------------------------M928537/49227642/15211AA000.html

Im going to change the timing belt and water pump anyways. If i need a 2 port water pump then i should look for an N/A timing belt kit?
Gates seems to have good kits, however the water pumps are controversial. Do i need to get an oem water pump?

Last edited by Jakenbake; 01-17-2019 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:43 AM   #28
bp05obxt
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They are both the right fitting but I would get the OEM one. You will also need the larger plug for the block but I am unsure of the part number at the moment. Someone at Subaru should be able to look it up for you if you have a dealership near by.

For timing belt kit I would suggest going to Rock Auto for an ASIN timing belt kit. It is pretty much OEM and has been proven very good quality with all of the pulleys being the NTN ones that the OEM uses. The only difference is the water pump is an ASIN, but it is also a good unit.

The correct ASIN timing belt kit will prevent you from needing to buy a water pump separately. The wrx I think 2012+ didn’t have the oil cooler so the water pump should be a two port, but I am not positive. This is something someone else may be able to chime in on. It is one of those things that even Subaru dealers diagrams and everything say they all still had coolers, but in fact some do not.

The ASIN kit is priced well enough that if you end up with an incorrect pump I would buy an OEM 2-port water pump, and sell the ASIN to someone here.
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:06 AM   #29
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For some reason using rock autos search and even google, i cant seem to find an aisin kit of any kind for my car? Also i was wondering if you or anyone knows if the pulleys,belt,tensioner etc are the same on a 2004 forester x? Id imagine it wouldnt have an oil cooler so the kit would have a 2 port water pump and all the neccessary pulleys? Unless the N/A 2.5 engines different
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:11 AM   #30
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Default 04 fxt killed 3 turbos..

Engines would be different. SOHC vs DOHC
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:30 PM   #31
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the water pumps are the same. NA blocks are virtually identical to turbo in most ways. the heads are totally different, and timing belts and idlers are different.
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Old 01-19-2019, 03:30 PM   #32
bp05obxt
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Default 04 fxt killed 3 turbos..

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Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
the water pumps are the same. NA blocks are virtually identical to turbo in most ways. the heads are totally different, and timing belts and idlers are different.


The shape yes; the suction ports (2vs3) as far as I know n/a are two ports. Either way the timing belt kit as a whole is the target. Finding the DOHC (turbo) timing belt and pulleys with the two port pump is the challenge considering Subaru doesn’t even recognize the difference often times.
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Old 01-19-2019, 03:39 PM   #33
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NA USDM and alot of turbo JDM have 2 port pumps and no oil cooler.

you can buy the individual parts for pretty cheap. the kits sometimes come with poor quality parts. on my engine build i bought brand new koyo idlers, new gates belt, and reused my JDM water pump to delete my oil cooler. i used a tensioner i had that is in good shape and the bearings are smooth. TBH i would rather have used OEM parts that i have gone over than cheaply made "new!" parts. subaru water pumps dont go out much. timing kit tensioners are known to go bad quickly.
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Old 01-20-2019, 10:36 PM   #34
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Okay so ill definitely use a subaru water pump.

Any idea if this is the adapter that lets me use the factory hardline? To 4an http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-030&Category_Code=FTG
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:22 AM   #35
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Okay so ill definitely use a subaru water pump.



Any idea if this is the adapter that lets me use the factory hardline? To 4an http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=FTG


That is the one.
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:24 PM   #36
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How much ahould i expect to pay for a used turbo? Theres one nearby the guy says it has 125km's off a jdm wrx for 250 OBO.
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:51 PM   #37
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How much ahould i expect to pay for a used turbo? Theres one nearby the guy says it has 125km's off a jdm wrx for 250 OBO.
td04s only sell around $80-$120
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:16 PM   #38
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td04s only sell around $80-$120
That sounds much better ! Thank you
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:49 PM   #39
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Just a heads up - I would bet there's metal shavings interally blocking the oil passages in either the block and/or the heads....

I went though this exact same fight - changed just the turbo the first time = made it 25K before kaboom...
2nd time - a new short block and every oil part (cooler / lines / pickup / pan / windage tray) = 1.5K = engine ended up with severe rod knock
3rd time = 2nd short block + oil parts + fresh new head cores = 10K so far with no issues (Knock on wood)
Actually at this point with 3 turbos blown - I guarantee there's metal hidden somewhere in the engine or head in the oil passages!

You could try a shortblock = success rate is fairly high - but if you're unlucky like me - it'll blow and you'll ll know it's in the heads...

If all you do is another turbo and lines = you're just throwing money away
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Old 02-03-2019, 11:12 AM   #40
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So how is it metal can get past the oil filter? Enough so that it can destroy the engine? Also id flush the engine repeatedly only running it short distances. Including dropping the oil pan at least twice to inspect and cleaning the oil pickup tube. Im installing an oil pressure gauge which hopefully will show strange readings if theres insufficient oil pressures. I hope i dont need a new block but i guess we'll see ***128517;
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Old 02-03-2019, 12:55 PM   #41
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head over to LGT Forum - with s stickied posting on exactly what you are in for:
Legacy GT Turbo Failure WIKI Post

I hear you - in almost any other application it's a non-issue - leave it to Subaru to engineer a system that is prone to turbo failure and bigger issues...

Good Luck!!!
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Old 02-03-2019, 05:27 PM   #42
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So how is it metal can get past the oil filter? Enough so that it can destroy the engine? Also id flush the engine repeatedly only running it short distances. Including dropping the oil pan at least twice to inspect and cleaning the oil pickup tube. Im installing an oil pressure gauge which hopefully will show strange readings if theres insufficient oil pressures. I hope i dont need a new block but i guess we'll see


Pressure bypass in the oil filter allowing media past most likely.
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Old 02-03-2019, 05:32 PM   #43
Jakenbake
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So are there any good oil filters that dont have this bypass? I wouldnt mind watching the aftermarket oil pressure gauge while flushing it to have the peace of mind knowing its filtering everything, amd if oil pressure does drop at all then its time to replace the filter. Then when everything is safe and sound revert back to the regular bypass filter. Idk if that would work or even be a good idea thats just my thoughts!
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:45 AM   #44
grovlet
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Quote:
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So are there any good oil filters that dont have this bypass? I wouldnt mind watching the aftermarket oil pressure gauge while flushing it to have the peace of mind knowing its filtering everything, amd if oil pressure does drop at all then its time to replace the filter. Then when everything is safe and sound revert back to the regular bypass filter. Idk if that would work or even be a good idea thats just my thoughts!
Well - you want the Bypass - but in this case it's not always helpful - without the bypass - oil flow would be drop to zero - so that's completely catastrophic...

If you really want full on safety - a few folks have had really good luck adding a Remote Bypass System on top of the standard filter:
Amsoil Universal Remote Bypass Filter

With that system - when the standard filter bypass opens - the 2nd finer filter is enabled = added protection - although the 2nd filter should also have a bypass but at least dual filters should minimize effects...

But have to plumb it all in - and I'm not sure how oil flow is effected with it in line... Slippery slope IMHO.
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