Welcome to the Old Skool Forum!

[stayDOOGAN]

78 brat gl owner here, appreciate the forum a ton! Hopefully plenty of experienced and helpful members will be able to help me plan my build when I'm ready for it

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[vinylscratchp0n3]

I thought I'd post my 82 GL here. It's a FWD 5 speed. An older lady was getting rid of it, so I got it for free, instead of it going to the scrapyard. So far I've replaced the water pump belt, CV boots, fuel filters, front brakes, rear shoes and wheel cylinders, and converted it to manual steering because the old power steering system was gushing fluid at every possible point it could. Next is a valve adjustment and spark plugs. Anyone know where we can get a new radiator core support?

[exiled4now]

Hey I'm new to the forum but I've owned three Subaru's in the past and thinking about getting a 1980 Subaru Brat, it needs a fuel tank so I'm not sure if I wannna try and invest the time and money into getting that, e me know what yall think please.

[tall86dan]

Originally Posted by yuba49r

Hello there,
New to this forum, I think this is my first post, as I can't post anywhere else in the forum, yet. I have an 86 GL, 4WD, Wagon, 5spd. This car has to pass smog every 2 years, so I must keep it running great. I had it fail smog recently, it remains undiagnosed, but a few days after the test, my Timing Belt broke, or the tensioner came loose, unsure as to which. At any rate it jumped time, and ran good sporatically, until gently loosing power each time, but it made it home, and refused to restart after I got it to it's parking spot. I was puzzled, but actually initially thought it was the distributor gear. One day I was tinkering around with it, more like pouting. lol I pulled those Timing Belt Tensioner/Inspection plugs off. The first one I pulled was the Passenger side, or sitting in the car you would call it the Right Hand side (for our European/Australian members). It felt fine, the other side was VERY LOOSE, I said to myself, Ah hah! Then I proceeded to tear the front end down, I found that the tensioner piviting bolt, not the adjusting bolt, had stripped the threads from the block! I found a 13mm boolt that threads in just fine, I will be sure to goop it up with no-lox, or anti-seize before I tighten it down, softly praying it holds tight. I should go get the tap, but I think it may actually hold. I'll be sure to torque it to specification to check it out. I'm still cleaning all the debris/oil/grease, etc. It's a mess, I found a tooth missing on the belt as well, could've been a combination of both problems contributing.? I hope this post isn't too long I get into detail alot. I pulled the oil pump off, one of the little "mouse ears" on the body/block seal, wasn't completely in the channel/groove and seemed flattened, hmmm. Also, the impeller/pulley, seemed to slide back and forth about 3/8" maybe not that much, but more than I expected. It's not loose side to side, nor does it seem to be broken, I've had other pumps that were designed to lubricate themselves by weeping a small amount of oil in to their bearing/shafts. Am I right or should I get a new one? I also replaced the Thermostat with a new 195 deg. I hope this will improve the performance, warm up time. I pulled the water pump and hoses off, went to NAPA to get new ones, will be in tomorrow sometime. I like the one I have on it better than the one I bought new off of Ebay, so I will just re-use the one I have, as it has no play in the shaft, no weepage at the hole. I just have to scrape the patina off of the metal parts/pipes, and the gasket material, to make it ready for a new gasket, I bought an O-ring for the Radiator to Pump Pipe. Should I get a special one? The guy at the counter pulled out a ringed binder full of various sized O-rings and just chose the one he thought would fit best. Should I order a special one or trust the generic one? The one on the pipe is actually flat, although it never leaked. The pipe itself has some spots where the metal is being eaten, or worn away, I can't tell, it's definitely not rust. I bout a piece of square iron & a pair of 1-1/2 1/4-20's, flat washers, lock washers, and nuts. I plan to drill 2 holes to match the center to center distance of the holes on the Cam Pulley. I have exhausted myself searching for the elusive tool number 49920700, can't tell from the pictures in catalogs if the generic Spanner is the right distance for Subaru, it says one size fits all, but I've known Subby's to be outside those parameters, lol. I don't wanna spend $50 or more for the adjustable one. So, I spent $8.56 at the hardware store after going to NAPA and Kragen, looking through their tool catalogs, then I remembered reading about other people making their own Cam Holder thingy, I've made plenty of racks for Conduit as an Electrician, among other projects that I've been assigned, I'm sure I can build one to fit, no prob. I bought a distributor cap/rotor/plugs/wires, I bought a set of seals from a well known Ebay source, let me know if you wanna know their name. It came with the Timing Belts, Tensioners, Oil Pump Seals, Valve Cover Seals w/new grommets, Crank Seal, Cam Seals. and Idler. All the stuff I have seems like it's fine, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I plan on getting a new radiator, as this one has been repaired before, where the fan collided with it at some point, for some reason? I know this car hasn't been wrecked, the thermostatic clutch and the fan look newer, hmm. Think someone forgot to tighten the bolts? or it came loose somehow? I don't know if the A/C would work with a charge, but it is an open system at the moment, I hope the rain doesn't hurt the lines. I plugged the holes on the compressor, so I'm not worried there. I'm not sure about which Carburetor I have, I know it is a Hitachi Feedback type carburetor. Although one website says DCP-306 and another says DZP-328. I'm leaning towards the DZP-328, but the only number or identifying things on this carb are an Hitachi symbol, a plant manufacturing production time/mold stamp, and the number 23-29. This is on the left side/drivers side of the carb, below the main input nipples. I also bought a new Elbow hose, that leads from the heater core to the pump, not necessarily that direction of flow, I haven't checked. I think the bearings, pistons are fine, when it started right, it sounded fine, there was a very noticeable noise coming from around the distributor and drivers side of the engine, when it ran rough. I also noticed it smoking a lot more when it had the 'condition', but I think the oil flow was ok. The main slippage was between the Crank and Cam, but i did notice the oil pressure fluctuating, then falling at times, usually it would quit quickly as the timing was getting more 'out'. I plan on doing all the major seals, as it would go through a quart of oil every 2-3 tanks of gas. I thought it seemed a little excessive, but I have known cars to use a quart ever 1500 miles, but I'm loosing that amount at 700 miles. I recently replaced the bearings in the front steering knuckles, and both half shafts. I was only able to drive it with the rear differential for a week! The front right side shaft broke, and the left side inner wheel bearing was out of the bearing housing and rusted! I had the knuckle machined, take out old bearings/clean knuckles, put new bearings in with seals, greased, ready to go. All was great, 'till the Timing Belt broke, I'm just glad it's a non-interference type engine! If you have any answers or advice for me while I'm in here, let me know. I know I said a lot, but I had a lot to say. Hope you got this far, I'll be waiting for the rain to stop, so I can work on it some more. I have the important stuff with bearings, and oil pump, A/C, etc in the dry, under the hood out of the rain. If you're in Grass Valley or Nevada City area, hit me up if you wanna help/watch. lol Peace, Yuba49r (David)

I've had my GL for about 3 years now! It been giving me some problems I join this site to find help. Two things. My car wouldn't start yesterday. When I turned the key all I heard was one click. I've got a new battery. I pulled and tested the starter. It tested good. Then he said it could be the relay. It took me an hour to find where the relay goes. I found 4 tucked up under the steering wheel. The part numbers didn't match the new part. Everything else looks the same. I tried the relay in all 4 positions. Same single click. I'm stumped! Can any one shed some light on why she wont start? Second the ERG light came on. I can't find the right part for that either. The part I need is APDQ72-10. All they make any more is -2, -4, -6. Is there a way I can by pass this or make the 2, 4, or 6 work?
Thanks I hope I hear something.

[tall86dan]

I've had my GL for about 3 years now! It been giving me some problems. I join this site to find help. Two things. My car wouldn't start yesterday and ERG valve. When I turned the key all I heard was one click. I've got a new battery. I pulled and tested the starter. It tested good. Then he said it could be the relay. It took me an hour to find where the relay goes. I found 4 tucked up under the steering wheel. The part numbers didn't match the new part. Everything else looks the same. I tried the relay in all 4 positions. Same single click. I'm stumped! Can any one shed some light on why she wont start? Second, but happened first, the ERG light came on. I pulled the part and found some hard black fluid stuck in the elbow that I cant find in any other ERG part. The part I need is APDQ72-10. All they make any more is APDQ72-2, -4, -6. Is there a way I can by pass this or make the 2, 4, or 6 work?
Thanks I hope I hear something.

[tall86dan]

She been a great car! Drove her 1300 mile back home! She had the ERG light come on about 2 weeks ago. I guess they don't make that valve anymore. What can I do? Plus she didn't want to start yesterday. New battery, starter tested good, and I got a relay that I couldn't find under the hood. Found 4 relays under the steering wheel. Of course I tried one at a time and all I get is a single click. I don't know where to go from here. Please any info would be GREAT!
Thank you.
Tall68Dan

[SubaruLT]

My old suby. One of the bes my car! 2,5 dohc. FWD-4WD trasmission, 4,111 final, 1,59 low range. Street legal.

[Tkacik]

Originally Posted by SubaruLT

My old suby. One of the bes my car! 2,5 dohc. FWD-4WD trasmission, 4,111 final, 1,59 low range. Street legal.

That looks like a ton of fun. I really miss my 87 Gl.

[Flowmastered87GL]

Nice, you don't see too many lifted 3 doors.

[Flowmastered87GL]

Originally Posted by tall86dan

She been a great car! Drove her 1300 mile back home! She had the ERG light come on about 2 weeks ago. I guess they don't make that valve anymore. What can I do? Plus she didn't want to start yesterday. New battery, starter tested good, and I got a relay that I couldn't find under the hood. Found 4 relays under the steering wheel. Of course I tried one at a time and all I get is a single click. I don't know where to go from here. Please any info would be GREAT!
Thank you.
Tall68Dan

Check out this thread regarding your EGR light. In many cases it just comes on every 60,000 miles. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...eset-question/

[ethandf06]

Originally Posted by Kevint143

top Photo was the day I brought it home and bottom is where she sits now. Next up is a turbo system under the hood.


Untitled by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

sweet ride!

[rallymathias]

Old school subarus for the win!! Ea82t is part of this complete breakfast

[On_Thy_Edge1]

Man I wish I could find 2 more gl wagon style rims like those.

[mrralphhurl]

nice brat

Originally Posted by North Ursalia

One day at a time- she'll be white on Rally Blue Pearl (you know, real Rally Blue ) hopefully sometime this spring




Brian

[mrralphhurl]

Originally Posted by exiled4now

Hey I'm new to the forum but I've owned three Subaru's in the past and thinking about getting a 1980 Subaru Brat, it needs a fuel tank so I'm not sure if I wannna try and invest the time and money into getting that, e me know what yall think please.

Always worth the time

[Riz98]

Found a 1988 GL-10 turbo wagon with a 5 speed for sale. The ad doesn't get too detailed but says the engine has been rebuilt 3000 miles ago and has an 02 rear end from a forester with a 4 inch lift. I was reading up on the ea82t engines and a lot of people were saying they are not reliable and overheat a lot. If anyone could shed some more light on the subject of the engine that would be great. I am thinking if I left it stock and kept up with the maintenance it would last a while. I read around on ultimate subaru also but mostly people just saying the engine was not good.

[highmileage]

There's an '88 GL-10 Turbo Wagon at Pull-A-Part in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Red. Sunroof. Nice interior. I took the cluster and sunroof switches though.

New to Atlanta and would love to go softroading in my SX4 with some vintage Subaru peeps. The Vintage Subaru crew on Instagram has welcomed me as part of the flock, And I've been out softroading with the Michigan crew, but would like to go again near Atlanta.

Please send a PM if interested!

[mahoneyk]

that brat is sweet

[ajay842]

Recently got an 86 XT fully loaded 5spd for 275$, but unfortunately I have to part it out because of blown HGs and cracked head.

[Flowmastered87GL]

Blown head gaskets are common. How bad are the heads cracked?? A small crack between the valves is normal. A big one is not.

[LikeButta]

Hey, My name is Sean and I got back into the Subie game today. I haven't named her yet, I'm still getting to know her. Anyways she is a 1986 XT6 FWD auto. Got her for a grand and everything except the fog lights work.

[mikeygeefoshee]

Picked up this lady last Thursday for $475, it's a '79. She runs and drives just need to change out the master brake cylinder and she'll be good to go.


Does anyone know about fitment for these? If any of the exterior/interior parts will fit? The dash is pretty rough. More specifically I found a stereo/tape deck console from 1980 and also the grilles.

[Kphamn12]

Does anyone have a guide or walk through of pulling out the dash harness for the swap for our cars?

[smokebreak]

[l75eya]

Not on NASIOC often, I'm here to seek out an ECU and wiring harness for an EJ18 or EJ22 motor. I'm on ultimatesubaru.org if anybody would like to try and find me there.