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Old 11-21-2020, 09:52 PM   #1
GK1707
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Default 04 STi - Blouch 20G-XTR, ID1050X

Wanted to share my setup/dyno sheet here as I think its a great street setup. It spools great and makes IMO, perfect power for city/highway driving.

This was tuned last summer at EFI Logics by Calvin Dotson. Since then I've got about 6k miles on this setup.

It made 325WHP - 323WTQ with Pump 93 on their mustang dyno @20psi
- All home installed by me and tuned at EFI Logics

MODS:
- Built EJ257 (Cosworth pistons, King bearings, OEM STi Rods+ARP rod bolts, KillerB Pickup, 11mm Oil pump)
- Stock B25 heads and stock head Bolts/ HG

- Blouch 20G XTR 8CM Stock inlet size
- BNM External gate up pipe
- Precision 46mm EWG
- ID1050X, ID Fuel Rails and ID Lines(top feed conversion)
- TGV Deletes and EVAP deleted
- Spearco TMIC
- IAG Big Maf Intake
- APS Hard aluminum inlet
- GS 3port EBCS
- AEM 340 FP
- NGK 1 step colders
- TiAL Q BOV
- SRS Bellmouth Catless DP
- SRS Type 2 RE 3in catback
- S2 Industries AOS
- OEM 4th Cyl cooling mod
- 255/35/18 Achilles atr sport 2 (if that matters to anyone)


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Last edited by GK1707; 11-21-2020 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 11-21-2020, 11:24 PM   #2
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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That looks like some pretty good spool.

How does it feel to drive?

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 01-02-2022 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 11-22-2020, 12:13 AM   #3
GK1707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
That looks like some pretty EPIC spool.

How does it feel to drive?
It brings a smile to my face every time. The ball bearing turbo was a good call. I hit full boost 20psi at around 3500 it takes off like a rocket and it holds it all the way to redline.
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Old 11-22-2020, 03:25 PM   #4
Dave D.
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Dom 1.5xtr JJ tuned

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The 20g-xtr is a great match for that STI tranny. The gear ratios are perfect. And you have a perfect setup to go flex fuel as well, which will really push you back in the seat. Those are strong numbers on a Mustang dyno!
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Old 11-22-2020, 04:46 PM   #5
tabrad
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Wow that spools surprisingly quick. XTR's are great!
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:12 PM   #6
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave D. View Post
The 20g-xtr is a great match for that STI tranny. The gear ratios are perfect. And you have a perfect setup to go flex fuel as well, which will really push you back in the seat. Those are strong numbers on a Mustang dyno!
I wonder if he would need slightly larger injectors to go flex fuel on that beefy of a setup. Maybe not tho

@GK1707 What duty cycle are your injectors @ under full boost on pump gas?
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:31 PM   #7
GK1707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
I wonder if he would need slightly larger injectors to go flex fuel on that beefy of a setup. Maybe not tho

@GK1707 What duty cycle are your injectors @ under full boost on pump gas?
That I haven't actually logged (I need to take a WOT log some time soon so I will post it when I do).

Based on Fuel Injector Clinic and Injector Dynamics fuel calculators this setup with these injectors on flex would be around 75-85% IDC (I'll need to take an actual log to be certain how much duty I'm running) but that seems a bit much for my liking.

So I've been certain 1300 or 1700s would be safer for flex. When it comes to that point I may just bump up in turbo size also and move to an ELH.
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:54 PM   #8
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK1707 View Post
That I haven't actually logged (I need to take a WOT log some time soon so I will post it when I do).

Based on Fuel Injector Clinic and Injector Dynamics fuel calculators this setup with these injectors on flex would be around 75-85% IDC (I'll need to take an actual log to be certain how much duty I'm running) but that seems a bit much for my liking.

So I've been certain 1300 or 1700s would be safer for flex. When it comes to that point I may just bump up in turbo size also and move to an ELH.

Yeah that 100% makes sense. I am switching from 1050s to 1300s when going flex fuel on a 2.1 stroker.

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 11-23-2020 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 11-23-2020, 05:06 PM   #9
robbieshonda
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That has always been one of my favorites for a daily street driven setup. 20g xtr, id1k's and ewg. I was easy to make a safe but very quick car in the 400hp/400tq area. and pulled great.

Nice set up
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Old 11-23-2020, 06:28 PM   #10
GK1707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
Yeah that 100% makes sense. I am switching from 1050s to 1300s when going flex fuel on a 2.1 stroker.

Yeah having more headroom would be much better. Im sure I would have had no issues with IDC tuning flex fuel on these ID1050x (could have probably turned it up to 23-24PSI on E85) but I figured I'd save the flex tune for when I decide to go bigger turbo, injector and make some other upgrades.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robbieshonda View Post
That has always been one of my favorites for a daily street driven setup. 20g xtr, id1k's and ewg. I was easy to make a safe but very quick car in the 400hp/400tq area. and pulled great.

Nice set up
Id for sure recommend this setup for anyone dailying their STi. Awesome usable power throughout the rpm band. On flex fuel, this setup is absolutely capable of 400/400... probably more on a dynojet.
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Old 11-25-2020, 10:25 PM   #11
Jonathankogel
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Good numbers for sure.
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:53 PM   #12
Dave D.
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Dom 1.5xtr JJ tuned

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK1707 View Post
So I've been certain 1300 or 1700s would be safer for flex. When it comes to that point I may just bump up in turbo size also and move to an ELH.

I did that. When I bumped my injectors to 1300 for flex fuel, I also went to a Dom 1.5xtr. Just had ELH headers installed, as my UELs had cracked. Very pleased with the results overall.
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Old 12-01-2020, 09:39 AM   #13
Jessica07
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Awesome build! I have the same turbo but stock engine(06 sti)I run e85 and make around the same power. My spool is also not as quick as yours but I haven't switched to EWG yet. Definitely still a fun turbo.
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Old 01-02-2022, 12:31 PM   #14
GK1707
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Just an update, this setup has been flawless for the past several years since 2019. Highly recommend the blouch 20g Xtr and ID1050x setup to anyone. I've been on countless long road trips 7+ hour drives with this setup and still get around 22-23mpg.

But the time has come I inevitably want some more power (knocks on wood). Just got my hands on a new FP blue, ID1300s and Cobb flex fuel kit. Looking for an equal length header (eyeing the HKS unit), will also do a true top feed setup and will also probably switch to speed density and hardwire my AEM340.

Still compiling parts but will prob go to a new setup at the end of 2022/beginning of 2023, hoping to break 400s.
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Old 01-02-2022, 12:39 PM   #15
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Link G4X flex tuned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK1707 View Post
Just an update, this setup has been flawless for the past several years since 2019. Highly recommend the blouch 20g Xtr and ID1050x setup to anyone. I've been on countless long road trips 7+ hour drives with this setup and still get around 22-23mpg.

But the time has come I inevitably want some more power (knocks on wood). Just got my hands on a new FP blue, ID1300s and Cobb flex fuel kit. Looking for an equal length header (eyeing the HKS unit), will also do a true top feed setup and will also probably switch to speed density and hardwire my AEM340.

Still compiling parts but will prob go to a new setup at the end of 2022/beginning of 2023, hoping to break 400s.
Skip the HKS, you're past the point of where I would recommend those personally.

Get a Killer B or stay stock and ceramic coat everything.
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Old 01-02-2022, 04:35 PM   #16
GK1707
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While the killer b header looks like an awesome part, at the moment it's well out of my price range. I know several people in the 400hp range that run the hks unit for a while with no issues. It's likely the header I'll go with.
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Old 01-02-2022, 04:39 PM   #17
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Link G4X flex tuned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK1707 View Post
While the killer b header looks like an awesome part at the moment it's well out of my price range. I know several people in the 400hp range that run the hks unit for a while with no issues. It's likely the header I'll go with.
The problem with the cheap headers (HKS/Tomei, IAG, etc) is that you don't gain anything over the OEM header... The OEM manifold is a stout unit that promotes fast spool, albeit without amazing topend (but it's still good well up to ~500WHP).

IMO, cheap headers are only for the sound.

If you want the best spool and performance WITHOUT CRACKING, get a KB or Full Race header, or stay on the OEM manifold if you can't afford a quality header. Otherwise don't come crying to us when your cheap header cracks and HKS won't honor the warranty.

The manufacturing integrity of the product is reflected in the price. 304 is not what you want your header made from

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 01-02-2022 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 01-02-2022, 06:10 PM   #18
GK1707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
The problem with the cheap headers (HKS/Tomei, IAG, etc) is that you don't gain anything over the OEM header... The OEM manifold is a stout unit that promotes fast spool, albeit without amazing topend (but it's still good well up to ~500WHP).

IMO, cheap headers are only for the sound.

If you want the best spool and performance WITHOUT CRACKING, get a KB or Full Race header, or stay on the OEM manifold if you can't afford a quality header. Otherwise don't come crying to us when your cheap header cracks and HKS won't honor the warranty.

The manufacturing integrity of the product is reflected in the price. 304 is not what you want your header made from

The hks is made from 409 steel NOT 304. 409 is used by almost all oems. However, I've seen all aftermarket headers crack including killer b. None of them are as stout as the oem unit, that I know. There's actually someone who's an op in another thread in this section who I've spoken to personally that has a killer b header that's cracked on the dyno.

If the HKS header cracks I have no shortage of talented welders in my area who can re weld it to better than new condition should I need to and it'll still be cheaper repairing it.... Even a couple times... than if I dropped baller money on the killer b.
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Old 01-02-2022, 06:17 PM   #19
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Originally Posted by GK1707 View Post
The hks is made from 409 steel NOT 304. 409 is used by almost all oems. However, I've seen all aftermarket headers crack including killer b. None of them are as stout as the oem unit, that I know. There's actually someone who's an op in another thread in this section who I've spoken to personally that has a killer b header that's cracked on the dyno.

If the HKS header cracks I have no shortage of talented welders in my area who can re weld it to better than new condition should I need to and it'll still be cheaper repairing it.... Even a couple times... than if I dropped baller money on the killer b.

Except if the Killer B does happen to crack (once in a million years) you just send it to the boys in VA and they fix it free of charge - it has a lifetime warranty against defects. Not to mention Killer B has been, and I don't say this lightly, the BEST company to have worked with in terms of customer service, product testing and validation, and transparency. They are seriously second to none.

Fair enough on the material - I assumed it was 304 like the Tomei/IAG. But from what I can gather, and based on this Summit article, 304 is still the superior material.

OEMs use 409 because it's cheap.

And there's still little to no benefit of the cheap headers like the Tomei on your setup (especially on pump gas) when you already have the OEM manifold - all it does is hurt spool.

I'd be willing to bet you'd gain more from ceramic coating your OEM header (or Swaintech if you're extra baller) vs upgrading to a mediocre unit.

No doubt it'll be cheaper - it will just be worse in every way.

Post your before and after sheets if you decide on the the HKS.

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 01-02-2022 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 01-02-2022, 06:24 PM   #20
GK1707
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Except if the Killer B does happen to crack (once in a million years) you just send it to the boys in VA and they fix it free of charge - it has a lifetime warranty against defects.

Fair enough on the material - I assumed it was 304 like the Tomei/IAG. But from what I can gather, and based on this Summit article, 304 is still the superior material.

And there's still little to no benefit of the cheap headers like the Tomei on your setup (especially on pump gas) when you already have the OEM manifold - all you do it hurt spool.

I'd be willing to bet you'd gain more from ceramic coating your OEM header (or Swaintech if you're extra baller) vs upgrading to a mediocre unit.

No doubt it'll be cheaper - it will just be worse in every way.

Post your before and after sheets if you decide on the the HKS.

I'll definitely be posting the after dyno but keep in mind I'm having the car dyno tuned after changing the entire setup. Not just the header. I'm moving to a fp blue and id1300s on flex fuel so the after dyno is going to be higher regardless of header (I'd hope atleast).

If you want to see the hks header dyno vs stock header you'll prob have to look on hks website or somewhere on the forums.
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Old 01-02-2022, 06:34 PM   #21
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK1707 View Post
I'll definitely be posting the after dyno but keep in mind I'm having the car dyno tuned after changing the entire setup. Not just the header. I'm moving to a fp blue and id1300s on flex fuel so the after dyno is going to be higher regardless of header (I'd hope atleast).

If you want to see the hks header dyno vs stock header you'll prob have to look on hks website or somewhere on the forums.
I don't care about seeing the HKS before and after - I just thought it would be a good example if you did them head to head.

HKS has never released any testing on their manifolds that I could find. Probably because it showed slower spool vs the OEM unit

But if you're changing more than the header, you're right - data is completely useless.
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Old 01-02-2022, 06:43 PM   #22
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Originally Posted by GK1707 View Post
There's actually someone who's an op in another thread in this section who I've spoken to personally that has a killer b header that's cracked on the dyno.

Also was that header wrapped, or coated? Or both?

There's always more to the story.
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