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Old 12-09-2019, 05:14 AM   #1
jokem
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Default What to replace while engine is out?

Hey All,

I'm planning on pulling the engine from my 2003 WRX to replace the oilpump seal and cam seals. While the engine is out anyway, is there anything else I should get at? Here's the post that I'm using as a guide: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1301065. Unfortunately, it looks like all the photos are fuzzy now, if anyone has other good resources, please share!

Belts were replaced relatively recently by previous owner so I'm not planning on replacing those.

Here's my current list:
  • Oil pump seal
  • Cam seals
  • Clutch + Throwout Bearing
  • Head gasksets
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Old 12-09-2019, 02:33 PM   #2
Bluestreak03
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Rear main, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs are always easier lol... List could go on...
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Old 12-09-2019, 02:51 PM   #3
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as much stuff as you can
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Old 12-09-2019, 02:55 PM   #4
firebane
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buckets and or shims
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Old 12-09-2019, 08:21 PM   #5
CaptainSlowbaru
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Re-seal the wristpin access plugs (especially the one above the water pump)- they tend to seep oil after a while and make a mess.

Oh, and replace the oil cooler seal (if your car has an oil cooler... I can't remember).

Last edited by CaptainSlowbaru; 12-09-2019 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 12-14-2019, 03:41 AM   #6
jokem
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Thanks for the input all!

Firebane - what are the buckets and shims?

CaptainSlowbaru - do you happen to have the part number for the wristpin access plugs?
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Old 12-14-2019, 09:29 PM   #7
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You don't need to replace the plugs- just remove them, clean them, apply some RTV to the crush washer, and tighten.
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:53 AM   #8
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@joken Subarus need valves checked and you can either have shims or buckets. Having the engine out is a good time to check.
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Old 12-15-2019, 03:47 PM   #9
bodhicheetah
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I'm about to do the same on a 2004 wrx. I'm going to buy one of these gasket kits either from fastwrx.com or sixstarbernie.com. Also a valve cover gasket kit.. And then an Asin timing belt kit from Amazon.

Don't know if you've ever pulled an engine before, I've only done it once and it was a N/A EJ22 so it was a lot simpler. Best to have as many parts/seals before hand but no doubt once you get the engine out you'll find things that need to be replaced that you would have never thought of. So you just order them on the spot or get em' from the dealer. I'm lucky because the parts guy at my local dealership is an enthusiast and is super helpful when I need to find random part numbers.

I found this video series by Speed Academy super helpful (for confidence boosting) when I started thinking about this project. It's a JDM engine, but still...

I presume you have an FSM, but if not you should definitely find one online. Not allowed to post links to them here otherwise I would....PM me if you need to.

It's kinda strange that there's no good quality, detailed, start to finish write up or video specifically for an EJ205 removal, reseal, and reinstall. At least not that I've been able to find. I'm going to document every step as best I can and hopefully create a video, but we'll see how that goes.

Anyway, best of luck to both of us! Wrench on!
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Old 12-16-2019, 03:44 AM   #10
jokem
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@bodihicheetah, thanks for the video, very helpful! This is my first time pulling an engine, but I have a lot of time budgeted for this adventure =)

I have a FSM handy and my plan is to reference that for the diassembly and assembly. Current plan is to write-up all the things I need to do and take plenty of pictures. Hopefully, I can walk away with a good how-to guide that's by the FSM book.

My current unknown is some of the specialty tools (e.g. cam holder to pull the cam bolts off).

Best of luck to you as well! I'll keep updating this thread with my plans and write-ups.

Code:
| Purchased | Part Name                         | Part No    | Qty | Price   |
|-----------+-----------------------------------+------------+-----+---------|
| X         | Clutch Disk                       | 30100AA840 |   1 | $136.80 |
| X         | Clutch Cover                      | 30210AA570 |   1 | $152.94 |
| X         | Clutch Release Bearing            | 30502AA130 |   1 | $100.53 |
| X         | Flywheel                          | 12342AA071 |   1 | $210.15 |
| X         | Pilot Bearing                     | 806212020  |   1 | $8.21   |
| X         | Oil Cooler Gasket                 | 21370KA001 |   1 | $4.79   |
| X         | Clutch Cover Bolt/Washer          | 800508310  |   8 | $5.04   |
| X         | Flywheel Bolt                     | 800610740  |   1 | $1.30   |
|           | Oil Cap Gasket                    | 803942020  |   1 | $3.19   |
|           | Oil Filler O-Ring                 | 806922120  |   1 | $2.48   |
|           | Oil Pump Seal                     | 806733030  |   1 | $6.43   |
|           | Engine Air Filter                 | 16546AA020 |   1 | $11.01  |
|           | Oil Pickup O-Ring                 | 806917080  |   1 | $0.83   |
|           | Oil Pan Sealing Gasket            | 11122AA340 |   1 | $12.38  |
|           | Oil Pump Cylinder Block Gasket    | 10991AA001 |   1 | $1.60   |
|           | Rear Main Oil Seal                | 806786040  |   1 | $8.95   |
|           | Service Hole O-Ring               | 806931070  |   1 | $2.69   |
|           | Cylinder Block Plug *A Gasket     | 803928010  |   3 | $4.74   |
|           | Camshaft Oil Seal                 | 806732160  |   4 | $17.84  |
|           | Rocker/Valve Cover Washer         | 13271AA071 |  16 | $42.88  |
|           | Rocker/Vavle Cover Gasket Small   | 13293AA051 |   4 | $29.84  |
|           | Rocker/Valve Cover Gasket Right   | 13270AA162 |   1 | $10.69  |
|           | Rocker/Valve Cover Gasket Left    | 13272AA094 |   1 | $10.69  |
|           | Rocker/Valve Oil Separator Gasket | 11832AA031 |   2 | $10.46  |
|           | Cylinder Head Gasket              | 11044AA483 |   2 | $68.94  |

Job List
  - [ ] Oil filler replacements
    - [ ] Oil Cap Gasket
    - [ ] Oil Filler O-Ring
    - [ ] Oil Cooler Gasket
    - [ ] Oil Pan Sealing Gasket
    - [ ] Oil Pickup O-Ring
  - [ ] Clutch assembly replacement
    - [ ] Clutch Disk
    - [ ] Clutch Cover
    - [ ] Clutch Cover Bolt/Washer (x8)
    - [ ] Clutch Release Bearing
    - [ ] Flywheel
    - [ ] Flywheel Bolt
    - [ ] Pilot Bearing
  - [ ] Cylinder Block System Seals
    - [ ] Rear Main Oil Seal
    - [ ] Service Hole O-Ring
    - [ ] Cylinder Block Plug *A Gasket (x3)
  - [ ] Camshaft seal replacement
    - [ ] Camshaft Oil Seal (x4)
  - [ ] Oil pump seal replacement
    - [ ] Oil Pump Seal
    - [ ] Oil Pump Cylinder Block Gasket
  - [ ] Rocker/Valve Cover Replacements
    - [ ] Rocker/Vavle Cover Washer (x16)
    - [ ] Rocker/Valve Cover Gasket Small (x4)
    - [ ] Rocker/Valve Cover Gasket Right
    - [ ] Rocker/Valve Cover Gasket Left
    - [ ] Rocker/Valve Oil Separator Gasket (x2)
  - [ ] Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement
    - [ ] Cylinder Head Gasket (x2)
  - [ ] Air filter replacement
    - [ ] Engine Air Filter
    - [ ] Cabin Air Filter

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Old 12-16-2019, 05:00 AM   #11
jokem
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I'm essentially planning on following the instructions in the FSM with some deviations. Everywhere where there's an illustrated drawing, I'm planning on taking a picture of and adding them to my write-up. The idea is to create one of these for each job/step (e.g. engine removal, clutch replacement, engine installation, etc.)

Code:
***** Remove Engine
Reference: 3-DOHC Engine.pdf, ME-33, 139/598
  1. Set vehicle on lift arms
  2. Open front hood fully and support
  3. Release fuel pressure (Reference: 3-DOHC Engine.pdf, FU-49, 51/598)
     a. Remove passenger side front sill cover - PIC
     b. Disconnect fuel pump relay connector - PIC
     c. Start engine until it stalls
     d. After engine stalls, crank for 5 more seconds
     e. Turn ignition switch to OFF
  4. Remove oil filler cap
  5. Disconnect the ground terminal from battery
  6. Remove the radiator from vehicle (Reference: 2-SOHC Engine.pdf, CO-38, 244/656)
     a. RADIATOR IS PRESSURIZED - WAIT UNTIL ENGINE COOLS DOWN BEFORE WORKING ON RADIATOR
     b. Lift-up vehicle
     c. Drain engine coolant (Reference: 2-SOHC Engine.pdf, CO-25, 231/656)
       i. Remove undercover - PIC
       ii. Remove drain **** and catch coolant in container - PIC
     d. Disconnect the connectors of radiator main fan (A) and sub fan motor (B) - PIC PIC
     e. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose from the thermostat cover - PIC
     f. Lower vehicle
     g. Remove air intake duct - PIC
     h. Remove reservoir tank - PIC
     i. Remove v-belt covers - PIC
     j. Disconnect the radiator inlet hose (A) and coolant filler tank hose (B) from radiator - PIC PIC
     k. Remove radiator upper brackets - PIC
     l. While slightly lifting the radiator, slide it to the left.
     m. Lift the radiator up and away from vehicle
  7. Remove the coolant filler tank (Reference: 2-SOHC Engine.pdf, CO-51, 257/656)
     a. Remove the air cleaner upper cover and air intake boot (Reference: 3-DOHC Engine.pdf, IN-7,
       i. Diconnect the connector from mass air flow sensor - PIC
       ii. Loosen clamp (A) which connects air intake boot to intake duct - PIC
       iii. Remove the two clips (B) from air cleaner upper cover - PIC
     b . Remove the air cleaner element
     c. Disconnect the engine coolant hoses from the coolant filler tank - PIC
     d. Remove the bolts and nuts which install coolant filler tank
     e. Disconnect engine coolant hose which connects the underside of coolant filler tank - PIC
     f. Remove the coolant filler tank
  8. Unbolt A/C compressor (no need to discharge) - PIC - DEVIATION
  9. Remove the intercooler (Reference: 3-DOHC Engine.pdf, IN-10, 102/598)
     a. Disconnect the air by-pass hoses from intercooler - PIC
     b. Separate the air by-pass valve from intercooler - PIC
     c. Remove bolts which secure intercooler to bracket - PIC PIC
     d. Separate intercooler air duct from turbocharger - PIC
     e. Separate intercooler from throttle body - PIC
     f. Remove the intercooler
  10. Diconnect the following connectors and cables
     a. Engine harness connector - PIC
     b. Engine ground terminal - PIC
     c. Engine harness connector - PIC
     d. Generator connector (A), terminal and A/C compressor connectors (B) - PIC
     e. Accelerator cable - PIC
     f. Clutch release spring - PIC
  11. Disconnect the following hoses
     a. Brake booster vacuum hose - PIC
     b. Heater inlet and outlet hoses - PIC
  12. Remove the power steering pump from bracket
     a. Remove front-side v-belt (Reference: 3-DOHC Engine.pdf, ME-44, 150/598)
       i. Loosen lock bolt (A) - PIC
       ii. Loosen slider bolt (B) - PIC
       iii. Remove the front side belt (C)
     b. Disconnect power steering switch connector - PIC
     c. Remove the pipe with bracket from intake manifold - PIC
     d. Remove power steering pump from engine - PIC
     e. Remove power steering tank from bracket by pulling upward - PIC
     f. Place power steering pump on right side of wheel apron (consider securing it)
  13. Remove center exhaust pipe (Reference: 3-DOHC Engine.pdf, EX-8, 210/598)
     a. Remove intercooler bracket - PIC
     b. Remove bolts which install lower side of turbocharger cover - PIC
     c. Remove turbocharger upper cover - PIC
     d. Remove bolts which install the lower upper side of turbocharger uppercover, and remove it.
     e. Separate the center exhaust pipe from turbocharger - PIC
     f. Disconnect the connector from rear oxygen sensor - PIC
     g. Vertically draw out clip from crossmember - PIC
     h. Separate the center exhaust pipe from rear exhaust pipe - PIC
     i. Remove the bolts which holds center exhaust pipe bracket to transmission - PIC
     j. Remove intercool bracket - PIC - REPEAT?
     k. Remove bolt which holds center exhaust pipe to hangar bracket - PIC
     l. Remove center exhaust pipe
  14. Remove nuts which hold lower side of transmission to engine - PIC
  15. Remove nuts which install the front cushsion rubber onto front crossmember - PIC
  16. Separate the clutch release fork from release bearing
     a. Remove the clutch operating cylinder from transmission - PIC
     b. Remove the plug using 10mm hex - PIC
     c. Screw 6mm bolt (B) into release fork shaft (A), and remove it - PIC
     d. Raise release fork and unfasten the release bearing tabs to free release fork - PIC
       i. THIS STEP REQUIRED TO PREVENT INTERFERENCE WITH ENGINE WHEN REMOVING ENGINE FROM TRANSMISSION
  17. Remove pitching stopper - PIC
  18. Disconnect fuel delivery hose and evaporation hose - PIC
     a. Catch fuel from hose in container
     b. Disconnect hose with end wrapped in cloth to prevent fuel from splashing
  19. Remove fuel filter and bracket - PIC
  20. Support engine with lifting device and wire ropes - PIC
  21. Support transmission with jack - PIC
  22. Separate engine from transmission
     a. Remove the starter (Reference: 2-SOHC Engine.pdf, SC-6, 310/656)
       i. Disconnect connector (B) and terminal (A) from starter - PIC
       ii. Remove starter from transmission - PIC
     b. Remove the bolts (x3) which hold right upper side of transmission to engine - PIC
  23. Remove engine from vehicle - PIC
     a. Slightly raise engine
     b. Raise transmission with jack
     c. Move engine horizontally until main shaft is withdrawn from clutch cover
     d. Slowly move engine away from engine compartment
  24. Remove the front cushion rubbers - PIC
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:40 AM   #12
NighthawkSTI
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upgrade the motor mounts and pitch stop to group N

inspect for any oil leaks from the oil pan, rear main seal, and valve covers. Rear main seal leaks on these aren't common, so dont bother unless it is.

Inspect the timing belt tension/condition and the rollers, check for seepage at water pump. If "belts" replaced by previous owner dont include the timing belt than obviously replace it and the rollers and belt and tensioner. If the water pump is seeping replace it and the timing belt anyway.

Last edited by NighthawkSTI; 12-16-2019 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:39 PM   #13
jokem
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Thanks for the input @NighthawkSTI!

Are the Group N motor mounts and pitch stop worth the upgrade to a DD? I've been reading that there's a noticeable increase in NVH when people complete this upgrade. I haven't had any complaints with feel with the stock motor mounts and pitchfork (140k miles).
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Old 12-16-2019, 01:26 PM   #14
NighthawkSTI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokem View Post
Thanks for the input @NighthawkSTI!

Are the Group N motor mounts and pitch stop worth the upgrade to a DD? I've been reading that there's a noticeable increase in NVH when people complete this upgrade. I haven't had any complaints with feel with the stock motor mounts and pitchfork (140k miles).

I would say YES, they are worth it, and you wont have any noticeable increase in NVH. I have almost 10,000 miles on my group N parts since I replaced them on my STI and inspected them last week during an oil change and they look great.

If you have 140+ thousand miles on your original mounts , you will notice less engine movement and better cornering as a result, with the group N mounts. These parts just firm everything up, especially over old worn out original parts, and they are Subaru parts so fit perfect.
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Old 12-16-2019, 01:39 PM   #15
bodhicheetah
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Default What to replace while engine is out?

Nice, looks like you've done some good research. Do you work at at garage? Is that some sort of mechanic's software?



Instead of buying a tool that I'll hardly ever use I'm going to use this timing belt trick to hold the cams. Even if you have to buy vice grips, at least you'll use those more often. And if you don't have an old timing belt, I'm sure any garage that works on subarus would give you one for free. I'm pretty sure any subaru timing belt would work, doesn't have to be wrx...




Also going to buy these bolt extractors just in case, heaven forbid, the 10mm allen bolt strips. The 11/16" is supposed to be the right size for these bolts.



Unless you have a kickass professional impact wrench you'll definitely want to take the crank pully bolt off while the engine is still in the car. 5th gear, brakes on (another person is best, or get creative and jam a 2x4 against the pedal somehow), 22mm socket, and a 2 foot breaker bar does the trick for me. I've also done the starter bump method which is a bit nerve racking but works like a charm.



Cheers!

Last edited by bodhicheetah; 12-16-2019 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 12-30-2019, 01:19 PM   #16
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Subscribed!
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Old 01-10-2020, 06:52 PM   #17
jokem
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Work in progress at the moment, engine is almost out. Here are some useful videos that I recently found as well!


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Old 01-14-2020, 11:39 PM   #18
Shik
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'15 WRX 6spd CWP, '02 WRX

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Nighthawk is right on the money by suggesting motor mounts! 5 minute job with the engine out, a complete PITA should you ever decide to do them down the road, when the engine is back in. Ugh. I'd rather do another 6 speed swap.

Also, if a 6 speed swap is in your future, I'd replace the flywheel cover with an STi one, as the 5 speed one doesn't fit without modifying and super difficult tp replace with everything in place. Only a few bucks from Subaru.
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Old 01-15-2020, 12:44 PM   #19
Carnot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokem View Post
My current unknown is some of the specialty tools (e.g. cam holder to pull the cam bolts off).
If you haven't already gotten to that point, do yourself a favor and get a Company 23 cam sprocket tool: LINK
That makes getting those sprockets off sooooo much easier than any crazy timing belt/vice-grip contraption. I'm usually all in favor of homemade contrivances instead of specialty tools but this is one instance where having the right tool is worth it IMO.
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Old 01-16-2020, 07:40 PM   #20
SIMPFLY
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i recommend replacing all the hoses listed in this guide. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2614458
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Old 01-17-2020, 07:41 PM   #21
jokem
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Thanks for the tips all.

I ended up asking for a bunch of specialty tools as Christmas gifts so I'm set with the crank wrench, cam int/exh wrench/ cam holder, and rear main seal installer tools!

Also, the hoses are all in great condition, I see that they were replaced ~20k miles ago according to the car's records and it shows as well =)

Here's some progress pics! Engine is out and it looks like the rear main seal was leaking. Got it replaced!







More to come later - it's been slow and steady. Looking forward to doing a write-up and also sharing my own lessons learned (e.g. things I wish I would've done differently as well).
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Old 01-17-2020, 08:02 PM   #22
NighthawkSTI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokem View Post
Thanks for the tips all.

I ended up asking for a bunch of specialty tools as Christmas gifts so I'm set with the crank wrench, cam int/exh wrench/ cam holder, and rear main seal installer tools!

Also, the hoses are all in great condition, I see that they were replaced ~20k miles ago according to the car's records and it shows as well =)

Here's some progress pics! Engine is out and it looks like the rear main seal was leaking. Got it replaced!







More to come later - it's been slow and steady. Looking forward to doing a write-up and also sharing my own lessons learned (e.g. things I wish I would've done differently as well).

That may or may not be leaking, that is clutch material/dust sticking to weaping around the seal from humidity and such. Mine looked like that too with 87,000 miles on it, but generally the rear main seals go over 150,000 miles on these engines without leaking from my research.

If it leaks you will know it because it will leave puddles of oil on wherever you park and get all over the bottom of the transmission. I didnt have any evidence of leaks but I replaced the rear seal anyway since I was replacing the clutch and flywheel. and its very very easy with the engine out.

I used that rear seal install disc and it works perfectly, be careful removing the original seal that you dont put any big gouges in the crank mounting surface. Just dont scratch the crank.
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Old 01-17-2020, 08:11 PM   #23
jokem
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Good point NighthawkSTI - definitely a "might as well" replacement while the engine is out though.

The rear seal install tool made the install cake! Pulling the old seal out was tricky. Like you said, I was trying to be careful not to scratch the crank. It eventually worked using a seal puller tool.
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:02 PM   #24
NighthawkSTI
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replace the heater core hoses if you havent already, another easy access job with the engine out
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:47 PM   #25
kg23
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Definitely all coolant hoses. Cheap enough. What about the PCV? Easier to access now.
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