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11-20-2019, 09:24 PM | #626 |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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And... 9 days later this guy finally arrived.
Extended wait courtesy of the local Subaru dealer. Installed and looking good. (or is it?) And here we go again... 10 gallons in !!! Out it comes again. It was still binding somewhere but I cant see where... Started looking at pictures and the siphon tube was bent past the float. It should have been "below" the float as it is now. Empty, refil, Danielo son.. Once the passenger fuel bay was empty I bridged the return hose to test the new jet-pump. Works like a charm sucking fuel into the passenger's bay. This went on back and forth few times as I couldnt tell if all the fuel was pumped out of driver's bay. Final re-fuel.. 0 5 10 15 So.. now you have your gallons to gauge reference. You're welcome.
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11-22-2019, 11:17 AM | #627 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 495008
Join Date: Dec 2018
Chapter/Region:
International
Vehicle:2000 Impreza GC8 Blue |
Congratulations!!
Would a Radium fuel pump hanger solve the entire issue? It looks like a nice upgrade and you can choose to utilize the second pump or keep it single: http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pump-...-2X-P1194.aspx |
11-22-2019, 04:27 PM | #628 | |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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It would have since everything is pre-routed.
I didnt go with radium since the in tank is only a feeder pump. It basically idles with almost 0 pressure. Wish I saw that tank cut-out earlier.. Would have made troubleshooting much easier. Quote:
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12-13-2019, 12:28 PM | #629 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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It's been a while..
Here is a teaser. |
12-14-2019, 07:20 PM | #630 |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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I am sure all of you are so anxious to find out "whats in the box".
So here it is.. KnockBlock A little device that lets you hear and record the actual knock sound. But you have a knock sensor you might say.. Yes.. I do. Then y the expense you ask? Well I cant tell if what the knock sensor "sees" is actual knock, thus I need to make sure that knock is knock and based on that tune the stock knock sensor. The unit comes with 2 additional knock sensors. And with the stock sensor already mounted there arent many options for mounting. Meet the M10 bolt. The small problem is the knock sensor takes M8 bolt. Now meet my "lathe". Not to be confused with latte. Aaaand ... Done. Assembled and ready to be mounted. But wait.. there is more.. Why stop with one bolt ???? A little "lathe" work and a little tap tap later. Why the nut you ask ??? Well.. this is the Power steering/alternator bracket.. and the torque for that bolt is around 30ft_lb, plus I dont want any tension on the sensor either. So the stud with the nut is tightened to 30ft.lb and the knock sensor to 20ft_lb. And here they are ... mounted. (Left one) And the right one. Hopefully the location is not that noisy. Last edited by remski; 12-15-2019 at 12:58 PM. |
12-18-2019, 12:43 PM | #631 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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So.. Did my first run with induced knock.
Added about 15deg to timing. This is apparently what knock looks like. Frequency range seems to match the calculated frequency. Since the knock sensor uses 2nd harmonics this is the formual if you ever wanted to double check. 2nd Harmonics Knock (kHz) = 3600 / (3.14 * piston diameter in mm) Ex: 99.5mm bore. 3600 / (3.14 * 99.5) = 11.5 kHz Altought I've seen Subaru knock settings at 13 kHz. Which is weird. Correlated the audio with my log and looks like my knock sensor settings are working properly. ECU took out 6deg of timing at both occurences. |
12-18-2019, 03:51 PM | #632 |
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Member#: 2692
Join Date: Oct 2000
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: SoCal & TX
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OK that's cool. I've always wondered how dialed in our knock sensors are, especially with built blocks/non-oe specs. Back when I used to run a standalone I put in a A LOT of work trying to make sure the knock sensor was sensing true knock. I wish this solution was around back then!
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12-18-2019, 08:16 PM | #633 | |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Dont know what "your time was" but Link released its first knockblock in 2011.
So possible there there were tools at that time.. They might have been less accurate and more expensive ... Quote:
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12-18-2019, 09:00 PM | #634 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 2692
Join Date: Oct 2000
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: SoCal & TX
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I was tuning on various standalones (Wolf, Tec, Link) from about ~2001, then just rewired my swap for a factory ecu a few years back. Definitely agreed on the less accurate/more expensive part (certainly relative to my budget )
Last edited by kaos200; 12-18-2019 at 09:05 PM. |
12-23-2019, 06:44 PM | #635 |
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Member#: 314324
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Collingwood, Victoria, Aus
Vehicle:MY07 Lib GTB 6MT Wag OBP |
Absolutely fascinating posts!
Have you worked out how to eg do a fixed install of the KnockBlock, converting the audio output to a 0-5v signal to use as an ecu input? |
12-23-2019, 11:50 PM | #636 |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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As far as I see it, its not made to be a permanent thing.
You tune it, set up your knock and move on. Your "stock" knock should do the rest. |
12-24-2019, 12:53 PM | #637 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 253498
Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: sOuL-CaLiFoRnIa
Vehicle:02 RSTI MURK'D |
Definitely admire your abilities and your confidence to undertake these tasks. I guess in the end if you do not wish to have someone shortcut you, it's best to learn and do it yourself.
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12-30-2019, 04:13 AM | #638 |
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Member#: 314324
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region:
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Location: Collingwood, Victoria, Aus
Vehicle:MY07 Lib GTB 6MT Wag OBP |
Gotcha, my immediate thought was that you might be failsafeing your failsafes :P
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06-07-2020, 03:05 PM | #639 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Looong overdue update.
Where do we start ?? I kept getting ocasional knock out of nowhere with relatively low timing. Lowering the timing did help but then knock would show up again.. Up to the point where I took out 6 degrees and wasnt making much power. Decided to remove the plugs to check for knock signs and overall condition. For whatever reason I started looking into fake NGK plugs.. and guess what ?? My set was a knock off. Here is a side by side pic. One of the left is the knock off. (notice the square ground strap) I've been increasing the ignition since the replacement and I am already up 5 degrees and not done yet. So check your plugs. Attended my first autocross right before the coronavirus thing poped up. Was dead last as the cones seemed to be pointing me in the wrong direction. 8 years old tires didnt help as liftoff-oversteer happened on every ocasion. But lots of fun nonetheless.. Specially on this kind of tarmac. Loose ends on DCCD were tied as I never added TPS signal. Finally found the motivation to hookup the meth. Quick diagram update and off we go. Decided to mount the solenoid on the firewall. Not sure if this was a good idea as it vibrates the whole panel. Might add some rubber to dampen out a bit. As the meth is hooked up to the ECU I now have a total control without opening up the Meth controller. This allows me to trigger the system at any time. Pump connections were rearanged for a cleaner look. And finally the gauge in its glory. For those interested.. Here is Link ECU config for the meth. As per manual it starts to kick in at 42% Injector Duty. I've scaled my table off IDC and the behavior of the meth controller. Based on this I can start the injection at any point now. |
06-07-2020, 03:30 PM | #640 |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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But wait..
There is more !!! I've fiddled around with CAN bus and now I can control the boost levels from the Motec Pdm keypad !!! Here is the Link ECU wastgate and CAN tables. Its relatively easy concept. Digital input 10 is Meth signal from Aquamist controller. If its ON it reads the 1 column. Say its a last position 0.6 that equates to Boost target of 49.3. It then goes to WDC table and looks up 49.3. This drives the boost solenoid from 24.5 up to 26 Duty cycle. |
06-07-2020, 07:03 PM | #641 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 253498
Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: sOuL-CaLiFoRnIa
Vehicle:02 RSTI MURK'D |
My mind doesn't click that way, must be the lack of exposure but the way you break it down is so inclusive. TY for sharing this build and progress.
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06-08-2020, 05:57 AM | #642 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 495008
Join Date: Dec 2018
Chapter/Region:
International
Vehicle:2000 Impreza GC8 Blue |
Loving all thisssssssss
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06-08-2020, 11:32 PM | #643 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 234236
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Vehicle:06 STI AW |
Wooo! The prodigal RS returns! Did you have fun at the track? Any photos on track?
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06-09-2020, 11:45 AM | #644 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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02-10-2021, 08:49 PM | #645 |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Off for a long overdue update.
I've decided to send my injectors to clean and flow test. Was getting some knock at places that I dont think I should.. Here are the charts they sent. Pre-cleaning. Not terrible but still a 2% deviation on injector #1 with total spread of 3-4%. Post cleaning. Total spread is down to 2% on average. From what I read ID runs their injectors at about .5% spread. Anyhow.. the cool part is I can correct this in the Link ecu. Making it almost .5% deviation.. as this is the minimum correction that Link allows. After install it was time for leak check.. and there was a tiny leak from the fuel rails. With the Cossworth fuel rails I have, I've changed the original o-ring to a smaller one so I can have a mechanical lock with the ORB fitting. Little did I know that the rails are garbage. Instead having a groove cut into where the ORB goes, all they did is a chamfer. Here it is squeezing the o-ring so both surfaces can mate. With the old o-ring there was no mechanical contact and I suspect this is why people have engine fires, the only friction is on the o-ring itself. Right next to the therads is the chamfer. What it should have been is a groove so the o-ring can fit almost flush. Then once you tighten the ORB both surfaces will meet creating a lock. This is how much the o-ring had to be crushed in order to get both surfaces to meet. So if you in the market for rails.. pay attention to that chamfer.. If it has a chamfer instead of a groove its garbage. Last but not least .. I played a little seamstress.... And here it is installed. |
02-11-2021, 02:27 AM | #646 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Kochi, Japan
Vehicle:2002 WRX STi Limited Silver |
Looks like I dodged a bullet with duel rails. I was leaning towards Cosworth, but Radium was just too good to pass up.
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02-11-2021, 06:36 AM | #647 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
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MWSOC
Location: MI
Vehicle:04.7 STI WRB IG @got2boostit2 |
Good information and thanks for sharing. Great images, what equipment are you using?
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02-11-2021, 08:54 AM | #648 |
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02-11-2021, 10:25 AM | #649 |
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: apparently I "spread the hate"
Vehicle:2006 WRX, 6MT, 5x114 |
Just wanting to say I enjoy getting a sub update from this thread. One of my favorite on the forum, thanks for continuing to post.
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03-01-2021, 03:01 PM | #650 |
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Member#: 151895
Join Date: Jun 2007
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I love companies that that do more than sell a product.
Its no surprise that Injector Dynamics are "THE" injectors to buy. Besides flow matching to 1% they also post cool vids on youtube. One of them that I watched was on fuel pulsations and fuel dampeners. Subarus do come factory stock with a dampener or two... Since I've replaced the lines I removed mine.. After watching the video I looked at my map and I do have two spots that either have very high volumetric efficiency or there are some fueling issues. This could also be due to the fuel oscilations... So I've bought the Radium fuel pulse dampener. What can I say.. The quality is pretty disappointing. First thing I do is, I check if this thing is air tight.. Attach the hose and simply suck on it.. What do you know.. it leaks straigt out of the box !!!!! No biggie right ? All screws are tight.. so I open it up. What do I find ? A metal shaving right between the green cap and the membrane. What do you know.. the surface is already scratched !!!! But wait.. there is more.. That shaving wasnt the issue.. The problem was the nipple leaking. It came loose pretty easy.. and this is what came out of the nipple area. It wasnt metal.. and didnt look like something used to seal. Now.. I had to re-seal the nipple thereads with teflon tape.... TWICE !!! As on the first try it leaked again. Finally I had to shorten the feed hose to accomodate the dampener. Here its sits installed. Sadly my laptop just died while logging so I cant tell if this does anything. Last but not least.. got a foam canon and was testing it out... |
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