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Old 11-20-2019, 09:24 PM   #626
remski
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And... 9 days later this guy finally arrived.
Extended wait courtesy of the local Subaru dealer.




Installed and looking good. (or is it?)



And here we go again... 10 gallons in !!!
Out it comes again.




It was still binding somewhere but I cant see where...
Started looking at pictures and the siphon tube was bent past the float.
It should have been "below" the float as it is now.




Empty, refil, Danielo son..
Once the passenger fuel bay was empty I bridged the return hose to test the new jet-pump.
Works like a charm sucking fuel into the passenger's bay.
This went on back and forth few times as I couldnt tell if all the fuel was pumped out of driver's bay.




Final re-fuel..

0


5


10


15



So.. now you have your gallons to gauge reference.
You're welcome.
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Old 11-22-2019, 11:17 AM   #627
GC8_4_EVER
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Congratulations!!
Would a Radium fuel pump hanger solve the entire issue?

It looks like a nice upgrade and you can choose to utilize the second pump or keep it single:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pump-...-2X-P1194.aspx
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:27 PM   #628
remski
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It would have since everything is pre-routed.
I didnt go with radium since the in tank is only a feeder pump.
It basically idles with almost 0 pressure.

Wish I saw that tank cut-out earlier..
Would have made troubleshooting much easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GC8_4_EVER View Post
Congratulations!!
Would a Radium fuel pump hanger solve the entire issue?

It looks like a nice upgrade and you can choose to utilize the second pump or keep it single:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pump-...-2X-P1194.aspx
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Old 12-13-2019, 12:28 PM   #629
remski
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It's been a while..

Here is a teaser.


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Old 12-14-2019, 07:20 PM   #630
remski
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I am sure all of you are so anxious to find out "whats in the box".


So here it is..
KnockBlock
A little device that lets you hear and record the actual knock sound.

But you have a knock sensor you might say..
Yes.. I do.
Then y the expense you ask?
Well I cant tell if what the knock sensor "sees" is actual knock, thus I need to make sure that knock is knock and based on that tune the stock knock sensor.




The unit comes with 2 additional knock sensors.
And with the stock sensor already mounted there arent many options for mounting.

Meet the M10 bolt.
The small problem is the knock sensor takes M8 bolt.




Now meet my "lathe". Not to be confused with latte.



Aaaand ... Done.



Assembled and ready to be mounted.



But wait.. there is more..
Why stop with one bolt ????




A little "lathe" work and a little tap tap later.



Why the nut you ask ???
Well.. this is the Power steering/alternator bracket.. and the torque for that bolt is around 30ft_lb, plus I dont want any tension on the sensor either.
So the stud with the nut is tightened to 30ft.lb and the knock sensor to 20ft_lb.




And here they are ... mounted. (Left one)



And the right one.
Hopefully the location is not that noisy.

Last edited by remski; 12-15-2019 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 12-18-2019, 12:43 PM   #631
remski
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So.. Did my first run with induced knock.
Added about 15deg to timing.



This is apparently what knock looks like.



Frequency range seems to match the calculated frequency.
Since the knock sensor uses 2nd harmonics this is the formual if you ever wanted to double check.
2nd Harmonics Knock (kHz) = 3600 / (3.14 * piston diameter in mm)

Ex: 99.5mm bore.

3600 / (3.14 * 99.5) = 11.5 kHz

Altought I've seen Subaru knock settings at 13 kHz.
Which is weird.



Correlated the audio with my log and looks like my knock sensor settings are working properly. ECU took out 6deg of timing at both occurences.
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Old 12-18-2019, 03:51 PM   #632
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OK that's cool. I've always wondered how dialed in our knock sensors are, especially with built blocks/non-oe specs. Back when I used to run a standalone I put in a A LOT of work trying to make sure the knock sensor was sensing true knock. I wish this solution was around back then!
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Old 12-18-2019, 08:16 PM   #633
remski
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Dont know what "your time was" but Link released its first knockblock in 2011.
So possible there there were tools at that time..
They might have been less accurate and more expensive ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaos200 View Post
OK that's cool. I've always wondered how dialed in our knock sensors are, especially with built blocks/non-oe specs. Back when I used to run a standalone I put in a A LOT of work trying to make sure the knock sensor was sensing true knock. I wish this solution was around back then!
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Old 12-18-2019, 09:00 PM   #634
kaos200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remski View Post
Dont know what "your time was" but Link released its first knockblock in 2011.
So possible there there were tools at that time..
They might have been less accurate and more expensive ...
I was tuning on various standalones (Wolf, Tec, Link) from about ~2001, then just rewired my swap for a factory ecu a few years back. Definitely agreed on the less accurate/more expensive part (certainly relative to my budget )

Last edited by kaos200; 12-18-2019 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 12-23-2019, 06:44 PM   #635
bigBADbenny
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Absolutely fascinating posts!
Have you worked out how to eg do a fixed install of the KnockBlock, converting the audio output to a 0-5v signal to use as an ecu input?
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Old 12-23-2019, 11:50 PM   #636
remski
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As far as I see it, its not made to be a permanent thing.
You tune it, set up your knock and move on.
Your "stock" knock should do the rest.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bigBADbenny View Post
Absolutely fascinating posts!
Have you worked out how to eg do a fixed install of the KnockBlock, converting the audio output to a 0-5v signal to use as an ecu input?
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Old 12-24-2019, 12:53 PM   #637
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Definitely admire your abilities and your confidence to undertake these tasks. I guess in the end if you do not wish to have someone shortcut you, it's best to learn and do it yourself.
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Old 12-30-2019, 04:13 AM   #638
bigBADbenny
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Gotcha, my immediate thought was that you might be failsafeing your failsafes :P
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Old 06-07-2020, 03:05 PM   #639
remski
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Looong overdue update.
Where do we start ??


I kept getting ocasional knock out of nowhere with relatively low timing.
Lowering the timing did help but then knock would show up again.. Up to the point where I took out 6 degrees and wasnt making much power.

Decided to remove the plugs to check for knock signs and overall condition.
For whatever reason I started looking into fake NGK plugs.. and guess what ??
My set was a knock off.



Here is a side by side pic. One of the left is the knock off. (notice the square ground strap)




I've been increasing the ignition since the replacement and I am already up 5 degrees and not done yet.
So check your plugs.



Attended my first autocross right before the coronavirus thing poped up.
Was dead last as the cones seemed to be pointing me in the wrong direction.




8 years old tires didnt help as liftoff-oversteer happened on every ocasion.
But lots of fun nonetheless..
Specially on this kind of tarmac.




Loose ends on DCCD were tied as I never added TPS signal.


Finally found the motivation to hookup the meth.



Quick diagram update and off we go.



Decided to mount the solenoid on the firewall.
Not sure if this was a good idea as it vibrates the whole panel.
Might add some rubber to dampen out a bit.




As the meth is hooked up to the ECU I now have a total control without opening up the Meth controller.
This allows me to trigger the system at any time.




Pump connections were rearanged for a cleaner look.



And finally the gauge in its glory.



For those interested..
Here is Link ECU config for the meth. As per manual it starts to kick in at 42% Injector Duty.
I've scaled my table off IDC and the behavior of the meth controller.
Based on this I can start the injection at any point now.

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Old 06-07-2020, 03:30 PM   #640
remski
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But wait..
There is more !!!



I've fiddled around with CAN bus and now I can control the boost levels from the Motec Pdm keypad !!!



Here is the Link ECU wastgate and CAN tables.
Its relatively easy concept.
Digital input 10 is Meth signal from Aquamist controller.
If its ON it reads the 1 column.
Say its a last position 0.6 that equates to Boost target of 49.3.
It then goes to WDC table and looks up 49.3.
This drives the boost solenoid from 24.5 up to 26 Duty cycle.

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Old 06-07-2020, 07:03 PM   #641
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My mind doesn't click that way, must be the lack of exposure but the way you break it down is so inclusive. TY for sharing this build and progress.
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Old 06-08-2020, 05:57 AM   #642
GC8_4_EVER
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Loving all thisssssssss
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Old 06-08-2020, 11:32 PM   #643
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Wooo! The prodigal RS returns! Did you have fun at the track? Any photos on track?
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Old 06-09-2020, 11:45 AM   #644
remski
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It was just an airstrip with cones.
I figured slow speed tests are in order instead of going full blast with everything being so "new".





Quote:
Originally Posted by BBY_Hero View Post
Wooo! The prodigal RS returns! Did you have fun at the track? Any photos on track?
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Old 02-10-2021, 08:49 PM   #645
remski
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Off for a long overdue update.

I've decided to send my injectors to clean and flow test.
Was getting some knock at places that I dont think I should..

Here are the charts they sent.

Pre-cleaning.
Not terrible but still a 2% deviation on injector #1 with total spread of 3-4%.




Post cleaning.
Total spread is down to 2% on average.
From what I read ID runs their injectors at about .5% spread.




Anyhow.. the cool part is I can correct this in the Link ecu.
Making it almost .5% deviation.. as this is the minimum correction that Link allows.




After install it was time for leak check.. and there was a tiny leak from the fuel rails.
With the Cossworth fuel rails I have, I've changed the original o-ring to a smaller one so I can have a mechanical lock with the ORB fitting.
Little did I know that the rails are garbage.

Instead having a groove cut into where the ORB goes, all they did is a chamfer
.


Here it is squeezing the o-ring so both surfaces can mate.
With the old o-ring there was no mechanical contact and I suspect this is why people have engine fires, the only friction is on the o-ring itself.




Right next to the therads is the chamfer. What it should have been is a groove so the o-ring can fit almost flush. Then once you tighten the ORB both surfaces will meet creating a lock.



This is how much the o-ring had to be crushed in order to get both surfaces to meet.



So if you in the market for rails.. pay attention to that chamfer..
If it has a chamfer instead of a groove its garbage.



Last but not least .. I played a little seamstress....



And here it is installed.
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Old 02-11-2021, 02:27 AM   #646
Kochi_STi
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Looks like I dodged a bullet with duel rails. I was leaning towards Cosworth, but Radium was just too good to pass up.
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Old 02-11-2021, 06:36 AM   #647
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Good information and thanks for sharing. Great images, what equipment are you using?
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Old 02-11-2021, 08:54 AM   #648
remski
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Just a beat up Galaxy s9+

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSTI4Me View Post
Good information and thanks for sharing. Great images, what equipment are you using?
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Old 02-11-2021, 10:25 AM   #649
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Just wanting to say I enjoy getting a sub update from this thread. One of my favorite on the forum, thanks for continuing to post.
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Old 03-01-2021, 03:01 PM   #650
remski
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I love companies that that do more than sell a product.
Its no surprise that Injector Dynamics are "THE" injectors to buy.
Besides flow matching to 1% they also post cool vids on youtube.

One of them that I watched was on fuel pulsations and fuel dampeners.
Subarus do come factory stock with a dampener or two...

Since I've replaced the lines I removed mine..

After watching the video I looked at my map and I do have two spots that either have very high volumetric efficiency or there are some fueling issues.




This could also be due to the fuel oscilations...
So I've bought the Radium fuel pulse dampener.




What can I say.. The quality is pretty disappointing.
First thing I do is, I check if this thing is air tight..
Attach the hose and simply suck on it..
What do you know.. it leaks straigt out of the box !!!!!
No biggie right ?
All screws are tight.. so I open it up.




What do I find ?
A metal shaving right between the green cap and the membrane.
What do you know.. the surface is already scratched !!!!




But wait.. there is more..
That shaving wasnt the issue..
The problem was the nipple leaking.
It came loose pretty easy.. and this is what came out of the nipple area.
It wasnt metal.. and didnt look like something used to seal.




Now.. I had to re-seal the nipple thereads with teflon tape.... TWICE !!!
As on the first try it leaked again.



Finally I had to shorten the feed hose to accomodate the dampener.



Here its sits installed.




Sadly my laptop just died while logging so I cant tell if this does anything.


Last but not least.. got a foam canon and was testing it out...

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