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Old 06-14-2005, 07:53 PM   #76
DrD
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measure the diameter of the hole - there will only be a couple of potential thread pitches to choose from.
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Old 06-15-2005, 09:38 AM   #77
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Do you have any local stores that you could drive to (i am assuming the pipe is in the car and you dont wish to remove) and use their bolt display to check for fitment? I know the NAPA down the street from me has a display of bolts and nuts that you can use to test fit before purchasing something. I brought my uppipe in there and test fit bolts in the store, but they may be willing to let you bring it outside, who knows.
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Old 06-17-2005, 11:15 AM   #78
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Well its definately bigger than a M14 x 1.25 so I guess I will just keep getting bigger til I find the right one. I would rather not pull the uppipe if possible thats why I haven't taken it to an autoparts store. nobody seems to have the right bolt size thus far though which sucks.
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Old 06-17-2005, 11:35 AM   #79
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Can you take the probe to the store and find a nut that fits on the probe then a bolt that fits in the nut?
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Old 06-17-2005, 12:53 PM   #80
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Does it possible have an O2 bung in the uppipe? Seems strange but weirder stuff has happened.

I believe you can buy O2 plugs, I just don't really know where. You could try Godspeed.
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Old 06-17-2005, 03:38 PM   #81
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No I had a plug already in the up pipe not the sensor. I got a M16 bolt now hopefully that will be big enough. With as much trouble as this is causing I am debating just finding a new up pipe... mostly because I kinda need my car and for some reason no bolts want to fit the sensor hole.
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Old 06-22-2005, 01:53 PM   #82
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Finally got it I needed an M18 bolt to fill the stupid hole. Who could have guessed it would be that big. Everything works fine now.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:31 PM   #83
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is the M12x1.25 bolt supposed to screw all the way and have the nut be flush against the uppipe? this is as far as it will screw in
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Old 07-05-2005, 09:42 PM   #84
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how long is the bolt? that will tell you how far it will screw in. If you look into the end of the pipe is the bolt maxed out or is it hitting the end of the threads/weld where the bung is welded on?
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Old 07-05-2005, 10:10 PM   #85
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its hitting the end of the thread in the uppipe. below that is a smaller non threaded opening.
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Old 07-05-2005, 10:23 PM   #86
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that is where it is bottoming out. the only way to make it thread any farther is to run a tap thru the hole, which i would not do. if you have the bolt threaded in that whole lenght (about 1" or so?) then it should be fine. If you are worried about it leaking you should use some loctite on it to insure the seal. I dont think mine is tightened all the way to the head and I have no leaks.
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Old 07-05-2005, 10:35 PM   #87
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you could always get a shorter bolt, or cut down the one you have... just be careful not to mess up the threads when you cut (if you can put a nut+however many washers it takes to protect the remaining thread on before you cut, then cut flush to the nut you should be fine - you might have to reshape the last thread, but that's it.)
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Old 07-05-2005, 10:40 PM   #88
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i think im just going to cut it since its not threaded the whole way down. probably 5/8th of it is actually threaded. the rest is just bare.
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:21 AM   #89
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dremel tool cut-off wheel, or something a little more beefy.
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:53 AM   #90
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Here is a pic of the resistor to add to the info.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CEL fix for EGT resistor.jpg (35.0 KB, 88 views)
File Type: jpg CEL fix for EGT resistor cup.jpg (44.0 KB, 187 views)

Last edited by Peaty; 07-06-2005 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 07-06-2005, 01:16 AM   #91
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too bad there's no more "radioshack" at least around here its called the "source" and they don't carry specific resistors- just random packs, I'll have to find some other place to get my resistor...
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:11 PM   #92
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how many studs are needed for the uppipe install? i bought my new uppipe from someone who didnt use it and it came with 5 studs. is that enough?
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:21 PM   #93
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5 it is
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File Type: jpg Cobb up-pipe out 2 .jpg (34.1 KB, 162 views)
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:45 PM   #94
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The part numbers for the WRX and STi OEM uppipes in the FAQ do not appear to be valid. I beleive the correct part numbers are:

WRX OEM UP: 44104FE010
STi OEM UP: 44104FE090

If I am not mistaken they are interchangeable and the STi UP is already catless. The WRX UP will have to be gutted.
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Old 07-06-2005, 03:09 PM   #95
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yes, 5 studs is correct. be careful putting them in, make you use the double nut method.
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Old 07-06-2005, 03:29 PM   #96
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anyone : do i need EM to run a helix up pipe?

my car is stock and btw i ordered my up pipe a week ago.. its just backordered so i wont have it for another 2 weeks
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Old 07-06-2005, 03:32 PM   #97
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you will need a em like the accessport or a mechanical cel fix atleast to take out the cel.
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Old 07-06-2005, 04:10 PM   #98
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**** **** **** i dont feel like buying an EM right now

edit : what besides the cobb AP and utec is a good EM.. ive only read about those 2
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Old 07-06-2005, 04:27 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dooley
you will need a em like the accessport or a mechanical cel fix atleast to take out the cel.
Um no.

kcook: You don't need EM to run just an uppipe. The problem is when you are also running a downpipe too. Just do the resistor mod to eliminate the EGT sensor CEL.
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Old 07-06-2005, 04:49 PM   #100
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You definitely do not need EM for an UP. I have an UP and headers and did the resistor mod = no CEL.

Does anyone know if the resistor is the same for the 05 as the 02?

kcook, if the mod is the same radioshack carries the resistor you need.
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