Aquamist (Water injection) questions and answers here...

[Aquamist]

A brief history...
The project started a few years ago, began with some research work on this forum. I was delighted with the responses from many posters and many pms. My first intention was to aim for a fully "plug and play" set up from the ECU harness and moved on to individual sensors. Unfortunately neither options was practical, both in terms of sourcing plugs and sockets and cost of manufacturing the PNP harness.
Traditionally, strip and solder is recommended but not everyone possesses this skill. We have decided to supply a bunch of tapping connector called "Posi-tap". It requires no stripping or soldering, ideally suited for our purpose.

Moving on ...
Having solved the task of retrieving required signals from the ECU effectively, I can briefly outline the functions of each signals.
The HFS4-v3.1 reads IDC, fuel rail pressure, manifold pressure and inlet air temperature to determine the precise amount of fluid injected under the fast moving engine load. It may seemed complicated but unfortunately necessary. A single dimension signal such as boost just cannot work well in this direct injection turbo engine.

Method of delivery...
The system uses the same technology as the OE fuel injection system, a PWM valve and constant pressure line. Aquamist is the only system to date uses this delivery method, it is lightning fast, precise and perfect atomisation across the entire range. Note all the others wmi systems just vary pump speed. It is slow and inaccurate.

Matching hardware ...
Compression fittings all around instead of the leaky push-on fittings.

Technical overview of the V3.1 and FA20DIT...
The long awaited Direct fuel injection technology has at last arrived, controlled by a new dedicated ECU. This should enable the engine to produce cleaner power, AFR closer to stoichiometric in its intended guise. This may be a great as a daily driver but when it comes to tuning for more power, it is limited by the capacity of the DI injectors. AFAIK, there is no alternative third party supplier to supply a double capacity alternative. Even it is available there is only a limited fuelling window after the inlet valve is closed. It doesn't help with the high reviving characteristics of the boxer engine.

This opens up an opportunity for a secondary fuelling system or methanol injection system. For those who are interested in employing wmi as their power tuning aid, please read on. The Di injection signal is complex, consists of three basic stages, high, medium and low current for holding the injector open. In order to decode these stages signal, we have to design an appropriate circuitry to make this happen. Luckily we have been doing this for a number of years when the first FSI engine from Audi and soon followed by the Piezo type by BMW. The DI technology moves on at a very rapid pace. So reading the DI signals from the DIT injector did not present too much of a problem for us. It all depend how it is used to our best advantage.

We have always believed the injectors signal is most accurate way of representing true engine load. It captures signals from multiple sensors as well as many testing and programming hours by engineers. Tracking this signal and the fuel rail pressure, the water/methanol will seamlessly blend in the cooling and octane supplement needed for the safe production of elevated power. Taking full the advantage of the ECU's ability to trim fuel accordingly, the wmi will form part of the control loop.

Outlook ...
We have a few systems out there being tested and tuned, in time I should be able to post some results. Bear in mind, we are the producer of the wmi systems and not tuning experts but we'll share the results.


More technical infos on the FA DIT platform:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2748962

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[omgawg]

anyone running a direct injection setup with there subaru? thinking of switching mine from tb injection to direct injection setup

[point78]

Originally Posted by omgawg

anyone running a direct injection setup with there subaru? thinking of switching mine from tb injection to direct injection setup

I'd like to, but decided to just put it down by the fmic. You run into fail safe issues with DP. It's not sensitive enough if you have a issue with just one of your injectors-might not catch it.

Now if they decide to make a 4 port flow sensor... I'm all over it

[lyncher25rs]

Hello I just bought and in the middle of installing my hfs-3 kit on my 02 wrx hybrid motor. I have chose to use two .9mm jets based on the calculation given. I was thinking of putting one jet right before the throttle body and the second jet about 8in before the TB. Does that sound fine? Also do I wire everything up then set the fail safe after tuning or do I just let the wire going to the boost controller un hooked until after it is tuned?
Thanks,
Max

[point78]

Originally Posted by lyncher25rs

Hello I just bought and in the middle of installing my hfs-3 kit on my 02 wrx hybrid motor. I have chose to use two .9mm jets based on the calculation given. I was thinking of putting one jet right before the throttle body and the second jet about 8in before the TB. Does that sound fine? Also do I wire everything up then set the fail safe after tuning or do I just let the wire going to the boost controller un hooked until after it is tuned?
Thanks,
Max

FMIC or TMIC?

I believe there is a "jumper" you can move in the hfs-3 controller box to disable the failsafe. So you wire it all up, but have the failsafe "turned off" while getting it all sorted out tuning. Then after you get it all dialed in, set your High/low failsafe limits in your gauge face, etc. Then you move the jumper back to its "active" mode turning it on.

[penusai]

I believe the manual tells you... I remember seeing it in there.
I'll be setting up my HFS4 in the next few weeks.

[lyncher25rs]

Originally Posted by point78

FMIC or TMIC?



I believe there is a "jumper" you can move in the hfs-3 controller box to disable the failsafe. So you wire it all up, but have the failsafe "turned off" while getting it all sorted out tuning. Then after you get it all dialed in, set your High/low failsafe limits in your gauge face, etc. Then you move the jumper back to its "active" mode turning it on.

It is a front mount intercooler.. And ok I'll look into the jumper part of it. Another question I had was how do you test the system. I seen in the manual that is says to test it first but not sure how to go about it.
Thanks

[point78]

Originally Posted by lyncher25rs

It is a front mount intercooler.. And ok I'll look into the jumper part of it. Another question I had was how do you test the system. I seen in the manual that is says to test it first but not sure how to go about it.
Thanks

FMIC-nice. Put the jets near the outlet of the intercooler. You can look through other threads for it, but something like 6-8" apart. Gives the fluid more time to mix in with the air & do its thing.

There are several steps in testing it all out. The info is in the manual, some good stuff on Howertonengineerings site, and in threads on here. You have some reading to do...

There's a specific start up sequence of which cables you hook up first-it's not all of them. You'll be looking at the controller board for different flashing lights that correspond to your fuel injector duty cycle, etc.

Then you get to the actual flow testing part

You'll want to have it turn on (jumper) without anything hooked up to purge all the junk out of the open lines, hook the jets up (in a container) & go 100% to check how many cc's your working with & set the flow bars on the guage to like 6 bars, set high side of the fail safe bars on the guage, driving it with jets stuck under your wipers so you can see when it's starting, how the spray pattern looks, how it ramps up, etc. then hooking it all up & actually driving or dyno to dial in & set the low side of the fail safe, etc. (use 100% distilled water for most of the testing, then switch out when your ready to tune...).

That's the cliff notes version...

I've never used a aqua mist system, I've learned all this from Internet searches.

I had a cheaper unit previously.

I'll be installing my hsf-4 later this week. I'm even going to attempt to use the new cobb flexfuel ROM and wire in the HSF-4 outputs instead of the flexfuel ethanol sensor-and use all the added flexfuel features.

FlexH2O...

[lyncher25rs]

Ok thanks for the tips!

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by penusai

I believe the manual tells you... I remember seeing it in there.
I'll be setting up my HFS4 in the next few weeks.

Please post some pictures of the install.

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by point78

I'll be installing my hsf-4 later this week. I'm even going to attempt to use the new cobb flexfuel ROM and wire in the HSF-4 outputs instead of the flexfuel ethanol sensor-and use all the added flexfuel features.

FlexH2O...

I will be most interested to see this. I can provide as much information if you need it. The HFS4 has many useful features that has not been exploited over the years.

Which version of the HFS4 do you have?

[point78]

Originally Posted by Aquamist

I will be most interested to see this. I can provide as much information if you need it. The HFS4 has many useful features that has not been exploited over the years.

Which version of the HFS4 do you have?

4.3, early serial # one. (I actually sent you an email on 2/23 about some parts([email protected]), etc, but it must have gotten lost. Howertonengineering was able to hook me up with the parts I needed thought, I picked up a fresh 5 gal can of M1 the other day, and installed a EFR 7163 tonight actually-just got done.)

I'm looking forward to exploring all the features the flex fuel ROM and the HSF-4 "should" be able to do together, along with a wideband and IAT. I also live up at 9200', often drive up mountain passed to 11K', and work down in Denver at 5000'. So the IDC/boost scaling should be interesting as I have the ECU turn up the boost as I go up in altitude to hold a steady MAP.

I gotta get a IAT bung welded in my charge pipe, then I'll throw my FMIC back on, Im currently TMIC. Hopefully very soon, I might start wiring in the HSF-4 this week as I'm off on vacation.

Thank you for the offer of help, I'll definitely take all I can get.

[Aquamist]

I looked for the email but it wasn't there, It must have been during our move to a new server, guess a great deal of email has been lost during this period. Next time, keep sending, I always reply.

Have nice vacation.

[point78]

Originally Posted by Aquamist

I looked for the email but it wasn't there, It must have been during our move to a new server, guess a great deal of email has been lost during this period. Next time, keep sending, I always reply.

Have nice vacation.

I'll send you another email.

[lyncher25rs]

Ok well I just got to the priming the pump stage. I switched to jumpers like the instructions say to do.. It did not kick the pump on. I was sent a bad relay with my kit.(who can I talk to about getting a relay sent to me?) I switched out to a relay I heard the pump started to pump. Like it is to do. How many times should it take to prime before the pump goes quiet. I have done it 5-6 times so far. Thanks

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by point78

I'll send you another email.

No luck. Did you send to: richardATaquamist.co.uk?

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by lyncher25rs

Ok well I just got to the priming the pump stage. I switched to jumpers like the instructions say to do.. It did not kick the pump on. I was sent a bad relay with my kit.(who can I talk to about getting a relay sent to me?) I switched out to a relay I heard the pump started to pump. Like it is to do. How many times should it take to prime before the pump goes quiet. I have done it 5-6 times so far. Thanks

Problem of purging the system fore the first time may not have anything to do with a bad relay. What is the serial number of the kit?

You first line of contact for warranty claim is from your supplier, who is it?

[point78]

Originally Posted by Aquamist

No luck. Did you send to: richardATaquamist.co.uk?

Yes, both times.

I sent you a pm.

[lyncher25rs]

Originally Posted by Aquamist

Problem of purging the system fore the first time may not have anything to do with a bad relay. What is the serial number of the kit?



You first line of contact for warranty claim is from your supplier, who is it?

The SN is 102305 am I bought it from
https://www.rallysportdirect.com

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by lyncher25rs

Ok well I just got to the priming the pump stage. I switched to jumpers like the instructions say to do.. It did not kick the pump on. I was sent a bad relay with my kit.(who can I talk to about getting a relay sent to me?) I switched out to a relay I heard the pump started to pump. Like it is to do. How many times should it take to prime before the pump goes quiet. I have done it 5-6 times so far. Thanks

Thanks for the serial number and supplier.
(RS is non-technical so no help there)

A few questions please:
Where is the pump located and the high of the pump relative to the tank.

[lyncher25rs]

The pump is upright with the tank but the inlet for the pump is about 2 inches lower than the tank outlet.

[lyncher25rs]

ok, I know the pump works with the other relay I have. The one that was sent to me with the kit is most defiantly bad already. I am on to the progressive spray with load check now. I have an unused jet under my wiper blade hitting the window. As I hit the throttle the jet gets more and more progressive. The only thing that is making me scratch my head is the car is trowing a CEL that reads the boost solenoid is low "A".. I have the fail safe hooked up for boost cut. brown wire to car and white wire to ECU. Why is it setting off the CEL? Any Ideas?

[point78]

Does the controller gauge have the Amber lights on the "W.injection" & below it "Water level" when you get the cell or before?


Do you still get the CEl with the fail safe jumper set to DFS?

[lyncher25rs]

Well the top led blinks then CEL comes on.. With the DFS jumper in.. I did not get CEL.

[Aquamist]

I suggest use the leave the DFS (disable fail safe) in until the system is running smoothly. There is a whole chapter on how to set up the failsafe. Just need to take it one step at a time.