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Old 10-03-2006, 11:05 AM   #76
trustSTI
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Subscribed!

Good luck with the build man. I plan on doing the same set-up in the future with an STi shortblock.

I may need some extra help, and you'll have the experience, plus you are local. Think you'd be down with helping?

Thanks and good luck.

-Joe
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Old 10-03-2006, 11:16 AM   #77
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yeah man. it's all just nuts and bolts.

just make sure you have a backup plan transportation-wise. even if you think you have everything ready to go, it'll take longer than you think.

Tony
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Old 10-03-2006, 12:33 PM   #78
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Is that a bit or a wheel? How much are they and where can you get them? Sears?

Thanks a bunch... I can't wait either.
It's a bit. They come in different sizes...some are round and some are shaped like a spear. They cut the hell outta metal. The stone bits don't last but I have ported the living daylights out of 6 turbos and the bit barely looks like it's used. I got it at a steel shop local to me. A good machine shop may be able to help ya locate them. I dunno of any online sources though as this shop near me is 10 mins from my work so I never bothered to look.
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Old 10-05-2006, 12:50 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mokujin22 View Post
yeah man. it's all just nuts and bolts.

just make sure you have a backup plan transportation-wise. even if you think you have everything ready to go, it'll take longer than you think.

Tony


Glad to see everything is falling into place. Started wondering when we didn't get an upadate for a while.
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:31 PM   #80
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just blew my motor so i am doing the same thing you are doing to a lesser extent. i plan on just swapping short blocks to an ej257. any tip pointers or reccommendations?
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Old 10-06-2006, 12:39 PM   #81
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jbwrx-

consider upgrading your valvetrain if sticking with 2.0L heads. if you want to push some big-ish numbers, the stock heads will prove a flow restiction.

how much power you looking to make?

Tony
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Old 10-06-2006, 12:41 PM   #82
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It's a bit. They come in different sizes...some are round and some are shaped like a spear. They cut the hell outta metal. The stone bits don't last but I have ported the living daylights out of 6 turbos and the bit barely looks like it's used. I got it at a steel shop local to me. A good machine shop may be able to help ya locate them. I dunno of any online sources though as this shop near me is 10 mins from my work so I never bothered to look.
stopped by the local compressed gas/welding place yesterday (Washington Air). ordered two carbide bits... one for steel and one for aluminum (non-ferrous). they were about $20 each.

thanks again,
Tony
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Old 10-06-2006, 01:58 PM   #83
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stopped by the local compressed gas/welding place yesterday (Washington Air). ordered two carbide bits... one for steel and one for aluminum (non-ferrous). they were about $20 each.

thanks again,
Tony
That would be it. Those things kick ass.....just don't go digging in hard
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Old 10-07-2006, 12:54 PM   #84
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what's the most generally accepted way of cleaning out engine parts that used to contain oil with metal flecks in them?

we're setting parts aside right now in a big pan with some engine degreaser. will use a stiff plastic brush. any easier way?
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Old 10-07-2006, 01:22 PM   #85
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got another one...

there's a few items on my old blocks that didn't come on the new one... some small cylindircal "guides" from the blcoks to the heads andan oil feed on the top back of the block:







they're not threaded or anything... how are you supposed to get these out without deforming the crap out of them? are they even meant to be reused?

thanks a ton,
Tony
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Old 10-07-2006, 04:49 PM   #86
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what's the most generally accepted way of cleaning out engine parts that used to contain oil with metal flecks in them?

we're setting parts aside right now in a big pan with some engine degreaser. will use a stiff plastic brush. any easier way?
I've always used diesel...it'll clean the crap out of it and at the same time leave a little oily film to protect them.


On the metal sleeve thingys a pair of pliers and tugging will take them out. Doesn't matter if they get scratched as that are there to help hold onto the heads when you first install them...sorta like a shelf to slide the head on. Just don't bend the hell out of them.
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Old 10-07-2006, 05:24 PM   #87
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I've this method before to remove these type of head locators. Attach a thick piece of rubber pipe to the spacer and tighten up with a hose clamp.Then hose clamp the other end of the pipe to an airgun. Put the pressure to about 90LBS. Then heat up the block to expand the metal , then give some air. It should pop out. Though I've not tried it with a Subaru block it's worked with others. Worth a try?
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:25 PM   #88
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I've always used diesel...it'll clean the crap out of it and at the same time leave a little oily film to protect them.


On the metal sleeve thingys a pair of pliers and tugging will take them out. Doesn't matter if they get scratched as that are there to help hold onto the heads when you first install them...sorta like a shelf to slide the head on. Just don't bend the hell out of them.
went and got some diesel at the local Shell. have some parts soaking right now. i love how sometimes, things are so damn simple.

the little sleeve thingies... well that's another story.
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:42 PM   #89
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sorry i've been pretty slack about posting lately... work's been nuts.

anyway, the last few days have been like Christmas....


Cosworth Oil Pump


Perrin Bog MAF


Studs, Timing Belt and Cometic Gaskets


Gruppe-S SB and returned heads; boy do these guys know how to ship...
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:47 PM   #90
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Sweet!
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:48 PM   #91
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the shortblocks




2.0L heads with Helix 264s


nice cleaning and decking job... too bad the machine shop didn't return my cover bolts (more on that later)
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:50 PM   #92
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Sweet!
thx, dude!
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:05 PM   #93
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got the engine in on Friday and was very excited for Saturday. anyway, Saturday was sort of a bust.

first off, found out that the machine shop doing my heads didn't send back the 16 bolts and 16 seals that hold the head covers on.... well, at least i can get the heads on today, right?

well, maybe...

made a couple of desperate posts that day when i realized that Subaru has all sorts of parts that need replacing that aren't deemed important enough to call out on their repair manuel's "exploded" views. (including those fancy little posts/coolant tubes on the heads and the oil feed on top of the block). anyway, after removing two of the studs with only slight deformation, my pal Garrett and I successfully shreaded the other two.

wish i would have asked earlier and taken your advice, F4tune...

anyway, called around and, yeah! the Subee dealership in Rockville is still open. run over there to pick up those studs (there's none in stock) and the head bolts and seals (none of those either) and while i'm at it, replace the WWII sunken battleship-like rusted studs and nuts around my turbo. $108 later, i'm picking them up on Tuesday (hopefully).

incidently, the 16 bolts and seals came up to just over $50, with their slight discount. bollocks.

anyway, here i am, waiting for the replacement hardware.

Wednesday will bring more posts....

Tony
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:12 PM   #94
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Man that sucks. Those stubs always pulled right out of my old DSM blocks. Maybe thats what that engine sucked! lol

Anyways you've been patient and I'm sure you will be well rewarded when it's all said and done.
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:31 PM   #95
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yeah, but boy am i ever ready to drive the REX again. starting to twitch, looking for the gearshift on my automatic DD Neon.

it's been three months now.

already missed out on Auto-X season...another two weeks (to do it right) won't kill me.
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:28 PM   #96
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Hey... what pistons are you using and what gasket thickness if you don't mind me asking
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:40 PM   #97
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If you can't get some more sleeves , let me know as I have pulled some off a spare 2.5L and can post 'em.

Nice Christmas prezzies! That's some seroius spending you're doing. Keep the posts coming.
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Old 10-11-2006, 01:03 PM   #98
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Hey... what pistons are you using and what gasket thickness if you don't mind me asking
I'm 99% sure that Gruppe-S motors use Wiseco pistons in their staged motors. Gasket thickness is .051", giving me an 8.5:1 CR.
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Old 10-11-2006, 01:14 PM   #99
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If you can't get some more sleeves , let me know as I have pulled some off a spare 2.5L and can post 'em.

Nice Christmas prezzies! That's some seroius spending you're doing. Keep the posts coming.
thanks anyway; already ordered them the other day from the stealership. should be in today/tomorrow.

i really appreciate all the advice via PM. for others' benefit, i'm gonna post your couple of tips (hope you don't mind ):

Quote:
Originally Posted by F4tune
If the method with the compressed air does not work. Try this: find a small socket to fit inside the spacer ,then use some vice grips to grip the spacer. Heat the area to help. I've just tried this and it worked. When you are ready to fire up the engine pour at least a half a quart of oil down each valve cover breather if you have them. I do on the 2.2L heads. This will give the cams a good start in oil. Also don't forget to crank over the engine to get oil pressure before starting the engine. I always fill the oil filter with oil also.
The above you may know already?
Quote:
Originally Posted by F4tune
e biggest damage done to a new engine is always in the first start up. That's why it's good to crank over the engine to gain oil pressure. Fit a oil pressure gauge to be 100% sure. That's my most important gauge! Infact when doing an oil change I always fill the oil filter with oil.Just a tip an engine builder gave me.
Use a good quality engine builders grease to install the cams etc. Oil can run away if the engine is sitting for a long time. Once you have oil pressure, check and re check the throttle is not wide open or sticking, this may sound stupid, but it's happened. .Be quick to stop the engine if it revs to high or you hear a strange noise. Oh yeah check the input shaft on the tranny. they wear out quite bad where the release bearing sits. Not sure about the 6 speed though. That's why I purchased the input shaft sleeve kit.
thanks so much for the great advice. will definately come in handy... and might save my new motor.

Tony
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Old 10-11-2006, 02:03 PM   #100
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Our setups are about the same. I went with the .040" gasket so my CR will be a little higher. Im just waiting on my new buckets and i'll be ready to go. Good luck
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