2012 Impreza thread

[theoutbackdream]

Originally Posted by Angelus911

Was doing some spring cleaning and came across some of my sound deadening supplied I got when I installed my component speakers.

Was thinking about doing another project to make the car quieter, what's the biggest bang for the buck area to do? I have some closed cell foam left, a little dynamat, and some MLV.

Was thinking the floor and headliner would be a good place to start

Depends how much you're willing to spend, and what sound you want to isolate more. But..

The under the spare tire, that's a good spot to start. If you can do the whole floor, do it. If not, the doors are another good place.

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[theoutbackdream]

Originally Posted by bji

I have synchronizers; why would I double clutch?

You disappoint.

[belowtheboss]

Just did a motor swap in mine put the badge on today

[drpoop]

uh... what?

[gregorz4]

My impreza just threw the p0340 code. Anyone experienced it before and know of a fix?
Cruise control, hill assist and most things aren't working. Diagnostics say camshaft position sensor. Anyone know where it's located?

[theoutbackdream]

Originally Posted by belowtheboss

Just did a motor swap in mine put the badge on today

So.... you crashed your mustang after running into a wall of people at a meet?

[belowtheboss]

Originally Posted by theoutbackdream

So.... you crashed your mustang after running into a wall of people at a meet?

Well yeah brother I had to send it

[Commander Keen]

I have synchronizers; why would I double clutch?

Because you might like to continue having synchronizers.

They are a wear item and bad shifting can burn them out well before 100K.

You don't DC on every shift, but it's worthwhile in these scenarios:
-Skipping gears up or down.
-Upshifting into second near redline.
-Downshifting from >1500 RPM.

It seems like a hassle at first, but after a while the motions blend together and you do it without thinking. Basically, if you feel the stick fighting you on a shift, DC could have helped there.

[Commander Keen]

My impreza just threw the p0340 code. Anyone experienced it before and know of a fix?
Cruise control, hill assist and most things aren't working. Diagnostics say camshaft position sensor. Anyone know where it's located?

Front of the engine. All four are easily accessible. I had a coworker get this under warranty. It had something to do with a shim spacing the sensor from the camshaft.

[Commander Keen]

Hood makes zero difference. Trust me. Just think about it, you're only blocking sound from the engine bay going into the environment, and vice versa.

Sound absorber on the hood, not mass loading. It's a sponge for noise, not a barrier. It turns the hood into a black hole for sound instead of a mirror.

Ever stand next to a wall covered with pyramid foam? You'll think your ears are playing tricks on you.

[drpoop]

If you really think it's a good use of money you go right ahead and do it. I can tell you it's not though.

[bji]

Originally Posted by theoutbackdream

You disappoint.

Well it was an honest question. Commander Keen answered it better so I'll respond to him.

[bji]

Originally Posted by Commander Keen

Because you might like to continue having synchronizers.

They are a wear item and bad shifting can burn them out well before 100K.

Hm, interesting notion, I've driven manual cars with mileage in excess of 150K and never had synchros go bad as far as I know (admittedly, all of those cars were bought used so maybe they had already been replaced). I believe you that they can wear out though.

You don't DC on every shift, but it's worthwhile in these scenarios:
-Skipping gears up or down.

Almost never do this.

-Upshifting into second near redline.

Almost never do this.

-Downshifting from >1500 RPM.

This I probably do frequently -- the RPMs before the shift are probably around 1500 but the RPMs after the downshift are well above that. Is that the scenario you're talking about?

I just trained myself to do heel-toe to bring the revs up to match correctly on downshifts -- does double clutching add anything that rev matching via heel-toe doesn't?

I've tried double clutching since reading about it in this thread over the past few days and either I'm not doing it right, or the way I was shifting before was pretty good already, because honestly it isn't making any of the shifts feel smoother nor is it reducing the force necessary to snick the shifter into the next gear.

I do find it really, really hard to heel-toe in the Impreza. My ankles are not flexible enough to turn my foot anything close to 90 degrees to be able to reach both pedals. Instead I just keep my foot upright, half on the brake and half on the accelerator and kind of rock it left or right to distribute pressure between the two pedals simultaneously. It takes some concentration because my foot can easily slip off of one or the other pedal, and slipping off of the break pedal in the middle of braking is kinda dangerous.

Honestly I learned to drive a stick from my dad in my first car and have kind of always driven the same fairly unsophisticated way. It's always worked pretty well except for this Impreza second gear difficulty. And even this is tolerable.

I guess it's something like cheating but shifting on a motorcycle is so much nicer. The shifts are instant, the rev matching is easy due to the clutch and throttle being in different hands, and the wet clutch plates probably takes away alot of the chatter that would otherwise happen. Someday I'll get me another bike ... when the kids are grown

It seems like a hassle at first, but after a while the motions blend together and you do it without thinking. Basically, if you feel the stick fighting you on a shift, DC could have helped there.

I generally don't feel that, except sometimes after starting the car up and trying to get it into reverse, but I guess I do double clutch in a sense in that scenario because when I feel resistance trying to put it into reverse, I always release the clutch, then depress the clutch again, and it always snicks in fairly effortlessly after that.

My problem isn't in getting the shifter into the second gear, it's when I let the clutch out, it's hard to make that shift without some grab and chatter. 3rd 4th and 5th are always so smooth that I'm pretty sure my passengers are not even aware that I've shifted. But 2nd, people feel. My wife complains that my car "isn't very smooth" because of it ... embarrassment ...

[Commander Keen]

My problem isn't in getting the shifter into the second gear, it's when I let the clutch out, it's hard to make that shift without some grab and chatter. 3rd 4th and 5th are always so smooth that I'm pretty sure my passengers are not even aware that I've shifted. But 2nd, people feel. My wife complains that my car "isn't very smooth" because of it ... embarrassment ...

There's a lot in your post so I'll cover this first.

There are two major things your passengers will feel from the 1-2 shift:

1. Sudden loss of acceleration out of first. Your passengers jerk forward when you shift out of first, caused by not leveling off your acceleration before hitting the clutch. Roll off the throttle before you approach your shift point to minimize acceleration. It should almost feel like you're coasting before you shift out of gear. If you do this right, you can easily slide the stick out of first without any clutch (for practice only, don't make a habit of this).

2a. Sudden deceleration into second. If your passengers jerk forward and the tach jumps suddenly when you let out the clutch, this is your problem. Your revs from the 1-2 shift shouldn't dip below the 2nd gear RPM. The throttle by wire delay is partially to blame here, but you can work around it doing these two things: Apply more pressure to the stick to engage second sooner and apply throttle sooner (relative to the clutch).

2b. Sudden acceleration into second. If your passengers jerk back into their seats, you're shifting into second too quickly or applying throttle too soon.


You'll never be able to shift quickly enough to avoid the jerkiness of bad timing/throttle.

Slipping the clutch excessively just masks bad timing and isn't necessary for a smooth shift.

At no time during the shift should the car experience deceleration.

Pay attention to the force you apply on the stick going into second. It will set much of the timing for your shift. More force is required at higher revs.

Shift out of first as early as possible. There's no reason to wind out first gear if you don't need the acceleration it can provide. Smooth 1->2 shifts are much easier at lower RPMs.

A good 1->2 shift goes like this:

1. Smoothly roll off the throttle as RPM reaches your shift point in first.
2. When acceleration is near zero, stomp the clutch, let off the throttle and shift into second. Deceleration here means you've waited too long.
3. Begin applying throttle
4. Begin letting out the clutch
Timed correctly, these events will happen at the same time:
5a. The engine begins to respond to your throttle input
5b. Clutch grabs
5c. The tach dips 0-200 rpm as the clutch fully engages
5d. The car smoothly accelerates

If the tach jumps into second, you've waited too long to engage second gear.

If revs dip excessively into second and it feels like you've been rear ended, you've engaged it too soon.

If it dips, then your passengers jerk forward, you haven't applied enough throttle early enough.

Done correctly, the tach should not hunt around and your throttle input shouldn't be visible. It should look very similar to that of an automatic car.

[gregorz4]

Originally Posted by Commander Keen

Front of the engine. All four are easily accessible. I had a coworker get this under warranty. It had something to do with a shim spacing the sensor from the camshaft.

Thanks keen.
It somehow randomly went away. I drove it around while being in ****ty mode, got home, restarted the engine and the lights were gone.
I just finished cleaning around my engine bay so maybe I sprayed/moved something I wasn't supposed to.

[gregorz4]

My armrest currently looks like 2 dogs did a jig on top of it. Probably because my dogs do a jig on it while inside my car. Anyone know of how to remove just the arm rest cover. I'm trying to cover it in a leather or suede material to freshen it up.
When you lift it up there are 3 screws on the underside of it but it still doesn't come loose. Anyone done this before?

[Andrew7887]

Originally Posted by gregorz4

My armrest currently looks like 2 dogs did a jig on top of it. Probably because my dogs do a jig on it while inside my car. Anyone know of how to remove just the arm rest cover. I'm trying to cover it in a leather or suede material to freshen it up.
When you lift it up there are 3 screws on the underside of it but it still doesn't come loose. Anyone done this before?

Pry apart at the red arrows with your fingers



Pull armrest straight up

Now u can take out the screws and recover your armrest

[Pelco]

Nice demo

[gregorz4]

Originally Posted by Andrew7887

Pry apart at the red arrows with your fingers



Pull armrest straight up

Now u can take out the screws and recover your armrest

Awesome Thanks! I covered it with some random blue material but it kinda sticks out like a sore thumb. Will be ordering a matching armrest cover shifter and ebrake boot cover that matches. Where did you get yours?

[Andrew7887]

Originally Posted by gregorz4

Awesome Thanks! I covered it with some random blue material but it kinda sticks out like a sore thumb. Will be ordering a matching armrest cover shifter and ebrake boot cover that matches. Where did you get yours?

No problem. I got mine from jpmcoachwork.com they no longer sell the parts. They changed there business to a supply company, it sucks cause they had really nice parts that fit our car.

No guarantee but the one from Subispeed MIGHT work http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru...ke-accessories

[drpoop]

Anyone know of a way to tell if the electronic center differential on the CVT disconnects when you pull the e-brake? It seems like it should... wouldn't be too hard to program whatever control unit is responsible. Maybe I should just pull up the ActiveOBD app and see what the lock up duty is on the center "differential" when I pull the e-brake quick.

[Dirt Bringer]

Originally Posted by drpoop

Anyone know of a way to tell if the electronic center differential on the CVT disconnects when you pull the e-brake? It seems like it should... wouldn't be too hard to program whatever control unit is responsible. Maybe I should just pull up the ActiveOBD app and see what the lock up duty is on the center "differential" when I pull the e-brake quick.

drpoop right now:

Top Gear Facts Of Handbrake Turns - YouTube

Top Gear Facts Of Handbrake Turns - YouTube

[theoutbackdream]

Originally Posted by bji

Well it was an honest question. Commander Keen answered it better so I'll respond to him.

Thought you were joking.

Hm, interesting notion, I've driven manual cars with mileage in excess of 150K and never had synchros go bad as far as I know (admittedly, all of those cars were bought used so maybe they had already been replaced). I believe you that they can wear out though.

Synchro's are really a wear and tear item just like anything else. Synchro's won't wear so easily, or get damaged easily, but they can break with bad habits. They don't wear so easily, but like most things, keeping wear down to a minimal will be better than doing nothing. Those car's you've driven over 150k+, I doubt they've had synchro's replaced. Honestly, you really don't have to worry about it. It's just one of those things to know that they do wear.

This I probably do frequently -- the RPMs before the shift are probably around 1500 but the RPMs after the downshift are well above that. Is that the scenario you're talking about?

Downshifting from 1500rpm is fine since you don't want to bog the motor.

I just trained myself to do heel-toe to bring the revs up to match correctly on downshifts -- does double clutching add anything that rev matching via heel-toe doesn't?

Rev matching and double clutching is a bit different.
When you rev match, you're only bringing the engine to match the speed of the gear you want to downshift into.
When you double clutch, you will be rev matching + bringing the transmission to the same "speed" as the engine.

I've tried double clutching since reading about it in this thread over the past few days and either I'm not doing it right, or the way I was shifting before was pretty good already, because honestly it isn't making any of the shifts feel smoother nor is it reducing the force necessary to snick the shifter into the next gear.

It doesn't make the shift feel smooth. More so, it's something that prevents wear to the transmission. You won't feel it.

What's wrong with the shifter going into gear? Is it hard to get in gear... or?

My problem isn't in getting the shifter into the second gear, it's when I let the clutch out, it's hard to make that shift without some grab and chatter. 3rd 4th and 5th are always so smooth that I'm pretty sure my passengers are not even aware that I've shifted. But 2nd, people feel. My wife complains that my car "isn't very smooth" because of it ... embarrassment ..

Sounds like you may need to replace your gear oil. My OEM fluids were crap after 15k miles. But that's with autocrossing, mountain runs, and commutting. Swapped over to Motul 300 and shifts are buttery smooth.

The problem with 1st to 2nd is that 1st is a really high torque gear, where as 2nd isn't as much. Most other car's aren't really like this, so learning to get 1st to second takes some time to get used to.

[drpoop]

Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer

drpoop right now:

Top Gear Facts Of Handbrake Turns - YouTube

I'm not an idiot. I'm not going to try to drift a 148hp AWD car. On snow in the other hand... it could be helpful to have a little fun if I knew it wasn't killing the differential. Trying to think of a low speed test that would definitively answer the question. Like apply it super lightly with all the wheels in the air, if throttle still spins or attempts to spin the rear wheels then there's your answer.

[Commander Keen]

A quick summary of clutch braking vs rev matching vs double clutching:

Clutch braking:
-Clutch in
-Stick into desired (lower) gear, synchro accelerates clutch plate
-Clutch slipped until flywheel speed approaches clutch plate speed
-Engine continues to provide braking as RPM drops
Wears: Synchros and clutch

Rev matching:
-Clutch in
-Stick into desired (lower) gear, synchro accelerates clutch plate
-Throttle blipped, brings flywheel roughly to clutch speed
-Clutch is quickly engaged
-Engine brakes as RPM drops
Wears: Synchros

Double clutching (fast version):
-Clutch in, throttle floored
-Stick to neutral
-Clutch slightly engaged (very little torque is needed to spin the gearbox in neutral)
-Release throttle when RPMs approach anticipated speed of the next gear (must be done quickly to avoid bouncing off redline).
-Clutch in
-Shift to desired gear
-Clutch out and accelerate or engine brake as needed
Wears: Nothing

Double clutching (slow/textbook/practice version):
-Clutch in
-Stick to neutral
-Clutch out
-Rev engine to anticipated RPM of next gear
-Clutch in
-Shift to desired gear
-Clutch out and accelerate or engine brake as needed
Wears: Nothing

Note:
RPM = Flywheel speed
Clutch plate speed = Gearbox input shaft speed