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Old 07-12-2015, 01:33 PM   #526
Hagwag02
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I did this for the second time the other day. I wasn't in any hurry, so I took my time. I would suggest going ahead and buying a couple of 5M x 20 machine screws with hex cap or allen wrench head with flat and lock washers. Even if your old screws are reusable, if you have butter fingers from all the lubricant spray, you might accidentally drop one underneath the intake manifold. Good to have something handy.

I've got 197,xxx and this time around the gasket was showing where some coolant had begun to degrade it and was allowing coolant into the gasket recess which was extremely fouled with caked residue. I needed to take a small jeweler's flathead screwdriver with quite a bit of penetrating fluid and q-tips to dissolve it and chip it out of the recess and sides and top of the chambers. Be sure to plug the air and coolant chambers with some wadded cloth or shop towels.

I didn't remove the motor from the valve, just let it soak in some alcohol, q-tip clean, drain, repeat a couple of times until q-tips no longer showed residue, flushed with several shots of WD-40 until liquid ceased being discolored, then followed up with electronic spray cleaner to finish getting out any excess solvent and dry it up inside.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:03 PM   #527
N-Bomb
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Hi all, I have what seems to be an IACV issue (the first problem w/ my car since the swap!), but not like what I see in the OP.

http://i.imgur.com/zWgLO2w.jpg

It looks like an O ring has popped out of that plastic right on the left and the whole assembly is now coated in grime. This must have happened a while ago, and doesn't seem critical as I just noticed it today.

Can anyone give me some insight on this? Is this serviceable by me? What kind of part number(s) might I be looking for?

Thanks~
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:35 AM   #528
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Need some help - I"m not a newb to doing some of my own maintenance on my 2006 Forester X, but I can't even FIND the IACV on this thing. I don't see any component that really looks like the pictures I'm seeing in this thread.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Oh - and when I called the local dealership to order the gasket - the parts dept guys asked me "Are you sure that model has an IACV?"
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Old 07-31-2015, 02:01 PM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyymc View Post
Need some help - I"m not a newb to doing some of my own maintenance on my 2006 Forester X, but I can't even FIND the IACV on this thing. I don't see any component that really looks like the pictures I'm seeing in this thread.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Oh - and when I called the local dealership to order the gasket - the parts dept guys asked me "Are you sure that model has an IACV?"
The google says you are drive by wire, so the IACV function is handled by the butterfly in the throttle and the motor on the TB. Your TB prolly looks like this one on ebay. Just clean the TB out - the folks on sf.org may be more help.
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:09 PM   #530
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FINALLY running proper.(!)

My short story:
I've had issues for the last 5 Months and finally have gotten things running right.

After a longblock install and tune Dec(14') the car ran fine[for the most part] through the winter till about April(15')

Then the car was hard to start or wanted to stall, sputtering, rich fuel smell, it ran horrible in stop and go traffic, in the heat it ran worse with heat soak issues from radiator fan blow-off; high revs in neutral(1300-2K), constant check engine codes, low RPMs after relieving gas pedal, the symptoms would change every week slightly but mainly the car had unstable idle.

The tuner said the tune was "checking out fine", but I had to set the AP3 to idle at 150rpms higher(a/c off) in order to keep it running "decent", Normal idle is about 1K. The powerband sucked on low end but drove fine when not stuck in traffic or repeated stop lights, but loped(searched) when relieving throttle to neutral.

New ID1000 injectors, NGK IX +1 Colder spark plugs, x2 fuel filter when motor was installed plus after mustang dyno(410hp19psi)
Skipped vacuum leak test since the install kinda fresh but I did need to swap the bottom down-pipe to race-pipe gasket***8230;didnt check coil packs or plugs.
I was talked into adding an AEM e85 320lph pump***8230;that didn't fix anything but I wanted to swap from the Walbro 255 pump anyways.

So instead of leaving it at the shop for $100hr I decided to do an intake system check-up.
- Cleaned the K&N filter
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Checked MAP and port leading to it
- Half-ass cleaned the IACV, added new gasket
- Capped off coolant line inlets on throttle body delete
- Wrapped off coolant lines to lower engine bay heat around air filter intake.
- Adjusted both throttle body cables because the heat, once the engine warmed up, was flexing the throttle cables causing raised idle(stuck @2300K).
- Also adjusted the small bolt that regulates how far the throttle flap shuts; it seem to have moved at some point. Sprayed throttle spring with WD40
- Figured maybe I needed a new O2 sensor so I bought an AEM AFR gauge with Bosch 4.9 LSU sensor***8230;But I havn't installed yet.

Anyways the car ran much better and fixed "certain issues" like the high revs but it was still dropping below the the 1K RPM threshold and running rich(I run e70/e85 maps only) so I decided focus my reading on possible fuel or electrical issues.

Long story short I came across threads on here about 02'-03' Subies having weak 75Amp alternators and weak grounds, then read about routing alternator power to gain volts so after a bunch of reading I remembered the "Big 3" wire system from my audio days. Reviewed a couple videos on YouTube***8230;1/0 awg is a bit much.

So today I cleaned the air filter and "thoroughly" cleaned the IACV with 90% rubbing alcohol(q-tips work great)***8230;test drove to AutoZone but still had issues.
Picked up (+)and(-) 4awg battery cables. Went home, ran an 18" 4awg (+)cable from the alternator to the battery; [no breaker added but I almost used a 200 volt I had laying around] and a 24" 4awg (-)cable from the battery to the A/C compressor bracket bolt***8230;cost me about $15 for pre made battery cables w/ connectors [meijers,auto zone,o'reillys,etc], used original terminal connectors, couple small washers for gapping; Re-conected everything and went for a drive in stop and go traffic and FINALLY(!) the car is driving proper and the RPMs don't drop below 1K and search to correct itself.
Everything seemed nice and balanced, especially in traffic.

Then when I returned from my test drive the mail-lady brought my Fuel Pressure Regulator and new Denso MAP sensor so I decided take everything apart and install those as well***8230;car definitely drives smoother, less restriction, more power, erratic idle a idle drop off seems to be completely eliminated.

I no longer have to advance 150RPM(a/c off) on the AP3.
But.!, When the A/C is turned on(low or high) it draws alot of power and the car runs really crappy so I need to address that ***8230;maybe a larger (STi 110amp) alternator will help(?)

Havn't run the car with the all lights on, a/c, and sound system blasting so not sure of the power draw but Ill be testing with a multimeter tomorrow, or soon.

Many things have crossed my mind to "troubleshoot" but I wanted to save myself as much wasted time and money as possible***8230;Subies can be stressful.
Plan to do upgraded alternator and aluminum radiator with liquid chill ***8230;also hook up AEM AFR and maybe AEM oil pressure gauge.

Anyway, This original thread and many comments within was/were very helpful so figured I would add to it.

Last edited by LandoSpeed; 08-03-2015 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:14 AM   #531
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so i got the dredded p1507 this evening,cleaned it once same issues(no i didnt replace the gaskets but i will if i have to)im gonna clean it again in the am,my question is for some reason the previous owner does have a hose running to the i fitting by the iacv,is this bad or was this not uncommon,im running a ej207 v7 with aftermarket turbo and ewg
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:47 PM   #532
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So I've cleaned it 4 times now the valve spins freely and still same problem idles at 1400 and jumps to 1600ish.I'm starting to wonder if a c
Vaccum leak is causing this but I'm still getting the p1507
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:12 PM   #533
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A++ No more hesitation on WOT.
Idles around 550 much more steady.
Cleaned mine with 196K, new gasket, new screws, here is what worked :

1.) Gumout Engine spray degreaser first.
1.) Mass airflow cleaner next.
2.) Q tips
3.) x-acto blade to clean crud in all corners carefully.
4.) Spray MAF liquid in chambers and flip onto palm and shake around.
5.) I sprayed it in the evening a few times, sit and dry over night and did it one more time before I re-attached the next day.
MAF cleaner was more clear, less crud collected when I wiped it dry.
6.) Never removed electric motor.
7.) Follow start up instructions from OP.

YMMV, thx.

Last edited by rrg123; 10-20-2015 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:43 PM   #534
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Originally Posted by scooterforever View Post
I cannot stress highly enough that you should have a replacement gasket on hand before opening the IACV. Also, remember that the IACV is attached to coolant lines, so... it's not something you want to work on when the car is hot.

This post explains how to remove, clean and reattach the IACV (sometimes also referred to as simply the IAC). In addition to my own experience (and frustration) with idle problems, this post incorporates suggestions from Unabomber, Overdose, WRX03 and others. I am not a mechanic or WRX expert. This post is not intended to cover all potential idle problems, but is merely a summary of approaches that several NASIOC members have had success with in solving their specific idle problems. Your results may vary. Feel free to PM me with additional suggestions, edits or corrections. Warning: I would recommend having a replacement IACV gasket on hand before opening the IACV. See below.

What Is The IACV?

The IACV is the “Idle Air Control Valve,” or more fully, the “Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve.” The IACV directly affects idle conditions, RPM in particular. On cold starts, the IACV sends rpm’s higher than on a warm start. Irregular idle conditions may be the result of a dirty IACV sensor. Limited discussion of the IACV is covered on page 36 of the DOHC Engine service manual (at least for the 2002 MY).

Where Is The IACV?

The IACV sits directly above the throttle body, and is affixed to the throttle body with two screws. The picture below shows the IACV. In this picture, I have replaced one screw (left lower corner) with a hex-socket cap screw, while the other screw (right upper corner) has been removed.


Indications and Symptoms

The IACV is exposed to the intake charge, and grime can build up from both (these are my assumptions) a. oil blow-by and b. any impurities that manage to escape the air filter. A dirty IACV appears to cause both too high idle rates and too low idle rates. In my case, RPMs dropped immediately to zero (car stalled) when stopped. I needed to brake torque at a stoplight to simply keep the engine running. My idle problem took some time to manifest, and first appeared and disappeared after one day in January 2005 (bought the car in March 2002). By April 2005 it had returned, and was dramatically worse.

Replacement Gasket

As stated at the beginning of this thread, you should order and have in hand a replacement gasket for the IACV before removing the IACV, which is why I am including the “replacement gasket” discussion before I include instructions on how to remove the IACV (see below).

The IACV gasket is fragile, but what is more frustrating is that it actually expands under vacuum/pressure and temperature. As a result, it is possible that the old gasket has expanded so much that it is impossible to get it back into position once you have removed the IACV. You cannot know the condition of the gasket before removal of the IACV, so a good safety precaution IMO would be to have a new gasket standing by just in case.

Here is the issue in properly reattaching the IACV (see below): the IACV separates coolant circulated in the throttle body from the intake charge. If you have a bad seal, you will get coolant in your intake. From postings of members who have experienced this, coolant in your intake will show up as white smoke out the exhaust. For members who have performed the throttle body bypass mod, a bad IACV seal would manifest itself as a boost leak.

The part number for the IACV gasket is 22659AA120. It cost me $6 from Exeter Subaru in NH in person, but I could probably have gotten it for less from subaruparts.com online.

This picture shows how the old gasket expanded over the left-side of the gasket housing. It also shows where I pinched off a section trying to reattach the IACV.



This picture shows how much larger the old gasket is compared to a fresh gasket.



Removing The IACV

The IACV is attached to the throttle body by two screws that are very soft. These are phillips-head screws with wide slots for a flat-head screwdriver. Given the softness of these screws, Unabomber has suggested removing these screws with a large flat-head and not a phillips-head screwdriver. I used a flat-head screwdriver, and managed to still take a small piece out of the top of one screw.

WRX03 has also found success with this screw removal technique: Attach a small pair of vise grips to the heads of the screws, just enough pressure to slightly indent the metal. Turn the vise grips along with turning a phillips-head screwdriver at the same time. It will break the screws loose with ease. If you're careful and your "small" vise grips have a flat section at the tip of the teeth, you can barely see the indention on the heads of the screws. Larger vise grips work but it easier to eat up the screws. The picture below demonstrates WRX03 “vice grip” technique.

-- I need to locate this picture and fix this link still --

Cleaning The IACV

NASIOC members have used several different techniques to successfully clean the IACV. I would break these into three categories:

a) Unabomber’s alcohol and Q-tip approach
b) variations on Unabomber’s technique using WD-40, carb cleaner, and throttle body cleaner in place of alcohol. Note: it has been reported that carb cleaner eats rubber gasket material; therefore, it may be less desirable of a cleaning solution for cleaning the IACV than other solvents. If the IACV gasket is damaged, the result may include a boost leak and coolant in the intake.
c) WRX03’s gasoline technique
d) Subaru write-up submitted by Jon_in_CT: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

I myself have only used the alcohol technique. I have no direct experience with the other approaches.

Unabomber’s rubbing alcohol and Q-tip approach


I followed this approach with rubbing alcohol and also required about 20 Q-tips. The catch is that you need to apply the Q-tips gently. You do not want to scrub, but rather gently remove grime. After cleaning, I let the IACV air dry before reattaching.

Variations On A Theme

Other board members have substituted alcohol with WD-40, carb cleaner and throttle body cleaner with success.

WRX03’s Gasoline Technique

WRX03 cleaned his IACV by inverting it and filling the cavity with gasoline, and letting the gasoline sit in the cavity for a time. I would assume that Q-tips could also be used to clean out grime that the gasoline did not dissolve. Here is a picture of WRX03’s IACV after cleaning with gasoline. Note: this is much cleaner than mine was after I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips.



Reattaching The IACV And How To Replace The Stock Screws With Cap Screws

As indicated above, the screws used to attach the IACV to the throttle body are VERY soft. I stripped one when I was reattaching the IACV trying, and failing, to reuse my old gasket. Thanks to WRX03, who pointed out to me that the screws are 5 mm by 20 mm long, I went to Ace hardware and bought two M5 (5mm) 20 mm long cap screws with hex sockets. You can see one of these in the lower left of the first picture. The stock screws come with both a lock washer and a larger flat washer. I was unable (not sure how they got the flat washers on the screws to begin with) to remove the flat washers from the stock screws, so I used a small lock washer with each cap screw/bolt. I omitted using a flat washer with each cap screw/bolt, which meant that they were slightly longer than the stock configuration. That did not, however, prove to be a problem. This picture compares the stock screws to the new cap screws I used:



The torque specification for the stock screws is 2.1 foot-pounds. Not having a low-torque torque wrench, I used a small hand-held allen wrench until they cap screw/bolts were snug.

Seating And Sealing The Gasket

It is important that the IACV be properly sealed. As you can see from the pictures above, an improper seal will allow coolant from the throttle body coolant lines to flow INTO your intake. Assuming you are using a fresh gasket, insert the gasket in the gasket grooves on the top of the IACV. As explained by Overdose in other posts, the gasket will look slightly too small. This is normal, and it will expand with heat, time and vacuum. Here is a shot of the new gasket ready to go:



Once the gasket was in place, I closed the IACV back onto the throttle body (see the next section below on reattaching the IACV). After the two bolts (I replaced the screws) had been torqued down, I reset the ECU (the manual says to do this; not sure if it is necessary, but figured it would not hurt). I then primed the fuel pump 3 times, for two seconds each time (I read this as part of Unabomber’s IAC cleaning instructions). I started the car, and let it idle for about 10 minutes. This allowed the gasket to slowly heat up with the throttle body.

Following good advice from Overdose, I then took the car on a 10-mile freeway drive staying off boost, which is harder than you might think. Our cars really want to stretch their legs at all times. But I wanted the engine bay to get warm with highway-rpm’s (yes, it was flush with highway-speed-airflow, but anyway…) while the vacuum of running without boost would force the IACV gasket to expand.

After driving for 10 miles, I stopped and let the car idle for another 5 minutes. I checked the IACV for any outside coolant leaks, and it appeared fine.

I then turned off the engine. After about twenty minutes I returned, then started the car up. I drove back to the freeway, and, to see if the gasket was now sealed, applied boost. Then I applied more boost. After each application, I looked out my rear view mirror for any tell-tale clouds of white smoke that would indicate coolant had entered my air intake. No smoke. I then slowed down a bit, and did a nice healthy WOT run. All was fine, and the gasket was seated.
Thank you guys for this! You just saved me tons of $ and a lot of :/ :/
Aloha))) Cleaning the IACV fixed my problem and my p1507 code went away))
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:44 PM   #535
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cleaned mine today in an attempt to resolve a weird issue where sometimes my car would stall, while moving, when i went into neutral. it is a 2005 wrx that is basically at stage 2. i used pb blaster on the screws and tapped them each with a mallet and a flat head screwdriver for some time before they were able to be extracted.

mine was filthy and required an enormous amount of q-tips to even begin to see the metal. it also seems as if the old gasket had either not been seated properly or was just worn as it had coolant seeping into the cavity. i reinstalled, reset the ecu, and primed the fuel pump three times and went for a 10 mile ride off boost. applied some boost after another 10 miles and then WOT.

time will tell if it has fixed my problem or not.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:51 PM   #536
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I started working on mine as well, but I found that this technique wasn't enough. I ended up taking the motor off, and I found that the shaft was seized.
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Old 12-11-2015, 02:02 AM   #537
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Made a world of difference, thank you.
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:40 PM   #538
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quick question regarding all of this:

I have checked for boost leaks- none

cleaned the IACV to a surgical level of cleanliness, pulled the motor off, spun the shaft and it was sticky at first, but with more cleaning, I managed to free it up so it spun nice and smoothly. -didn't fix my problem

replaced PCV valve- no help

new plugs/packs - no help

now, my question; will looping/connecting the two wires at the neutral safety switch on the pedal disable or override it? it makes sense in my head, but I wanted some clarification..

I should note that I am running stage 3 AP, FMIC, VF48, pinks, 255lph, wiseco rods and pistons and a solid tune from PIA in Tacoma, Wa.

my car searches when idling, however it doesn't ever try to die, it just feels "chuggy" in first gear and won't rev past 5k or boost past .5bar though sometimes it will randomly reach and hit 1.5bar (my target boost) on rare occasion and scare the **** out of me.

new IACV is now "out for delivery" as I type this.

I have bypassed the TB coolant lines as well FWIW.

Do the IACV motors just eventually give up? Is that a thing?


:::::EDIT:::::: My codes are p0507 (occasionally, not recently though) and a constant P1507
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Old 05-12-2016, 05:18 PM   #539
tmcquinn
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I just wanted to say that this post is still helping people in 2016. My son's 2000 Outback suddenly began idling @ 200 rpm and trying to stall at every stop. I cleaned the IAC valve (filthy and mucho debris) and the throttle body (seemed pretty clean) and now it's running perfectly for the price of a gasket!

I almost forgot, a week ago it did throw a P1507 code, though it never came back after resetting it.
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:15 PM   #540
ThatGy
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I finally got around to putting my car back together a couple weeks ago, and although there was a huge improvement, the idle was still a bit high. To adjust it, while it is installed and the engine is running (at temperature) you loosen the two screws that hold the motor in place and rotate the motor until the idle is right, then tighten everything back down.

I'm not sure if I read about this adjustment in this thread or another one, but I figured I'd write it here to make it easier to find.
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Old 08-16-2016, 01:53 PM   #541
jadedjeff1
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isopropyl cleaning worked for me! Bought 2 gaskets just incase. I had another IACV from the engine I just swapped out.

(Just put an ej205 into an 02 WRX that had a spun bearing).

Seems that after these JDM engines sit for a while before we get them this is a fairly common issue.

I got the second gasket incase I wanted to swap the IACV from the other vehicle over if i couldn't get the one off the new engine to work.

gaskets are just under 7 dollars a piece from Subaru dealership.
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Old 09-03-2016, 01:43 PM   #542
Rayray16
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I did this in hope it would help my wrx and it did, just not as much as I was hoping. My car will rev but only to about 4,500 rpm's. And its not as bad as the video right here but it is bad. Any ideas? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DCRojUgwv3I
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:14 PM   #543
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Even after cleaning my IAC was still giving me fits. After fiddling with it for some time I decent to take the solenoid off. After doing do I tried to hang spin the valve and it was stuck solid. I sprayed in some cleaner and after a minute for it to spin. Upon reassembly I got the Inkling that I should have marked the position of the solenoid. I've got everything back together and it's running better. But my idle is still s little off. I'm guessing from the position I have the solenoid in?
Anyone else have this issue when cleaning theirs?
Also whats the best way to tune the idle?

Thanks,
Weller
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:14 PM   #544
N-Bomb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jweller90 View Post
Even after cleaning my IAC was still giving me fits. After fiddling with it for some time I decent to take the solenoid off. After doing do I tried to hang spin the valve and it was stuck solid. I sprayed in some cleaner and after a minute for it to spin. Upon reassembly I got the Inkling that I should have marked the position of the solenoid. I've got everything back together and it's running better. But my idle is still s little off. I'm guessing from the position I have the solenoid in?
Anyone else have this issue when cleaning theirs?
Also whats the best way to tune the idle?

Thanks,
Weller
I could swear that when I did it, it was fairly obvious which was the right and wrong position for the valve. I recall there being some kind of magnetic thing going on where it would naturally want to spin to a certain position, and I went with what seemed the right way that fit smoothest.

I'm sorry if this is too vague, but that's all I have! Good luck.
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Old 12-09-2016, 11:13 PM   #545
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There are sellers selling WRX IACV on eBay for about $60. Some sellers' pics show Denso which is the same as the factory IACV.

Any experience?
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Old 12-12-2016, 04:14 PM   #546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
There are sellers selling WRX IACV on eBay for about $60. Some sellers' pics show Denso which is the same as the factory IACV.

Any experience?
Unless you re-design the IACV, it's liable to get gummed-up again. The root of the problem seems to be oil mist / bypass gases / etc in the intake stream (due to the PCV being routed into the intake just before the turbo) ends up accumulating in the IACV, leading to the gum-up. That's the dark crud that needs to be cleaned out of the IACV.

So to prevent it from gumming-up, the cure would be to prevent oil mist / bypass gases / etc from entering the intake stream. That would mean either removing or disabling the PCV system (possibly illegal depending on your local regulations) or routing the PCV system through an air-oil separator or catch can, before it goes into the intake.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:23 PM   #547
Snowphun
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Good success yesterday taking the IACV apart and cleaning it. As many have pointed out (and others still ignored), removing the motor is key for getting it properly cleaned. Once the motor is off the flapper can be fully rotated, mine was so dirty I didn't realize it could spin all the way round until the carb cleaner and q tips had started cleaning things up. Better idle and throttle response, good stuff. Not hard to cut a slot in the bolts and they aren't particularly tight so the come off easily.
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Old 04-05-2017, 06:51 PM   #548
propeine
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Very old but still applicable post. 191k miles on my 04 wrx and it started acting up last Saturday. Ordered a gasket which arrived today, an hour later car is good as new. The tip on removing the stepper wouldn't hurt to be added to the original post as well.

Incidentally I also had the upper coolant reservoir leak from the old style metal expansion tank so that got replaced as well tonight. Both parts showed up on the same day!
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Old 07-20-2017, 10:19 AM   #549
2002Dubx
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Old bump, but still such a good thread!

Did this whole page 1 process last night on the bugeye. Difference was I need about 55 Qtips and a whole can of MAF cleaner...

New gasket seal set after idle, 10 mile drive no boost, cool down, more idle.

Drove like a dream this morning.
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Old 09-10-2017, 04:16 AM   #550
BadDriver123
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Default HELP High Idle Problem

I saw the IACV wire connector plug wasn't plugged in so i thought i should plug it in. however it randomly started idling at 2500. i tried disconnecting battery,checked the throttle cable and it is slack. No Cruise control cable on my forester. Any ideas? It was idling normally before i plugged in the connector. Vehicle is a 2000 Forester GT with 2006 EJ257 sti engine.
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