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Old 11-01-2013, 10:44 AM   #476
EvoXtoWRX
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I just found this thread and its exactly what I was looking for! I'm hoping by doing this it takes care of the Erratic idle ive been getting on my 02' WRX. I'll definitely be ordering the gasket. I'll let you know if it to be the issue. I'm hoping not to have to order a whole new IACV...I've heard anywhere from $300-700 ugh!

BMH

--------------------------

looks like after replacement of gasket the IACV needs to be replaced..ohh well
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:10 PM   #477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvoXtoWRX View Post
I just found this thread and its exactly what I was looking for! I'm hoping by doing this it takes care of the Erratic idle ive been getting on my 02' WRX. I'll definitely be ordering the gasket. I'll let you know if it to be the issue. I'm hoping not to have to order a whole new IACV...I've heard anywhere from $300-700 ugh!

BMH

--------------------------

looks like after replacement of gasket the IACV needs to be replaced..ohh well
Swap in a used TB or IACV from the classifieds or ebay. Be all
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:35 AM   #478
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I have to do this for a second time, as I did a poor job the first time, but it loosened up some debris and has now stuck at WOT twice. Not fun in the rain.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:05 PM   #479
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gotta try this out !
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:03 PM   #480
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So I think this may be the issue I'm currently having with my '05 Legacy. I've had a couple of guys take a look but they haven't been able to locate my IACV. They're willing to help me clean or replace it so I'm trying to do some research on it before hand. Any info you have on the differences between the WRX example and my legacy (especially location) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:19 PM   #481
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Any picture of a IACV for 2008 Sti?
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:33 PM   #482
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Originally Posted by crasyboy412 View Post
Any picture of a IACV for 2008 Sti?
DBW cars don't have one.
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Old 12-28-2013, 04:14 PM   #483
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Originally Posted by Hoon Goon View Post
DBW cars don't have one.
Thanks. But my idle is around 1500-1700
And I clean the throttle body, new thermostats, coolant flush, and new oil

Still high ilde.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:32 AM   #484
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just did this today, getting the screws out was a bit slow, but what i did was take a flat head with a plastic handle, and a hammer, and give each screw a few whacks before trying to open, they opened up fairly easily. i just got home, let it idle for a bit, and my bad idle was back, then touched the harness that leads to the sensor and idle was flat again... not sure whats up but i'll see how it is tomorrow. in any case, awesome write up!
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:57 PM   #485
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I've been chasing a p1507 code and horrible surging idle for a couple of days now and I think I might be on to something. I pulled the iacv off and cleaned it without removing the electric motor, reinstalled (new gasket, of course) only to have it be worse. I cleaned it again, this time being more careful to get it very clean. Reinstalled and it seemed pretty good. Went for a test drive, seemed OK. I stopped at a friends house for a chat, when I left his house it was ok but the surge came back by the time I got home about 2 miles away. Today I pulled the electric motor off and got some more gunk out but the shaft didn't spin like I thought it should, it turned but with slight resistance. What I did next I did very carefully, I clamped the magnet lightly in my Dewalt drill's chuck, filled the chamber about 1/4 full of WD40 and eased on to the trigger while holding the valve. I used the drill to spin the shaft fairly slowly, 2 or 3 rev's per second max, for about a minute. After that the shaft spins like a top, no resistance and very smooth. Reinstalled the valve and the idle is spot on about 750 rpm, bumps up to 900 rpm when I hit the AC button and all seems great. Be aware that the tab on the magnet doesn't allow the drill chuck to clamp perfectly (remember I clamped lightly!) so the valve wobbles a little bit when the drill spins the shaft. My car is a 2002 WRX with 175k miles, recently back to stage 2 after a lot of miles with a vf39. For those looking for a new iacv, shop around. I've seen OEM valves in the $240 range on a couple of sites and Rock Auto has aftermarket valves for $210.

Last edited by yosemitemtb; 02-07-2014 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:20 AM   #486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yosemitemtb View Post
I've been chasing a p1507 code and horrible surging idle for a couple of days now and I think I might be on to something. I pulled the iacv off and cleaned it without removing the electric motor, reinstalled (new gasket, of course) only to have it be worse. I cleaned it again, this time being more careful to get it very clean. Reinstalled and it seemed pretty good. Went for a test drive, seemed OK. I stopped at a friends house for a chat, when I left his house it was ok but the surge came back by the time I got home about 2 miles away. Today I pulled the electric motor off and got some more gunk out but the shaft didn't spin like I thought it should, it turned but with slight resistance. What I did next I did very carefully, I clamped the magnet lightly in my Dewalt drill's chuck, filled the chamber about 1/4 full of WD40 and eased on to the trigger while holding the valve. I used the drill to spin the shaft fairly slowly, 2 or 3 rev's per second max, for about a minute. After that the shaft spins like a top, no resistance and very smooth. Reinstalled the valve and the idle is spot on about 750 rpm, bumps up to 900 rpm when I hit the AC button and all seems great. Be aware that the tab on the magnet doesn't allow the drill chuck to clamp perfectly (remember I clamped lightly!) so the valve wobbles a little bit when the drill spins the shaft. My car is a 2002 WRX with 175k miles, recently back to stage 2 after a lot of miles with a vf39. For those looking for a new iacv, shop around. I've seen OEM valves in the $240 range on a couple of sites and Rock Auto has aftermarket valves for $210.
I'm happy you brought up the price, as I was getting ready to as well. SubaruGenuineParts.com has them for 241.16 for the WRX. "Idle Speed Control" is what they are under in the keyword search.

I guess I'm going to bite the bullet and purchase one I had the P1507 back in the summer, had all symptoms mentioned, cleaned the valve, and all was well. This was with around 130k miles. Fast forward to now, about 138k miles, and it went to crap again. I'm thinking it's just crapped out
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:05 AM   #487
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Feeling it necessary to post after my adventure with the p1057 code (Idle control system failure (Safe Mode)).

Cleaned my iacv with carb cleaner, let soak etc, cleaned with q tips and a can of carb cleaner later, still got the code.

Looked at the shiny iacv that was soaked in gas, so I thought I'd try that since carb cleaner didn't work. Soaked it in gas OVERNIGHT and pulled it the next morning and again went to town with q tips. Put it back in, still got the code.

Arranged for a buddy with an extra to bring me his iacv, because I verfiyed voltage at the plug so I knew it SHOULD be working.
Thought what the hell, can't meet him until the next day midday, so I'll go ahead and let it soak in gas again overnight. What have I got to lose other than saving $325 right? So soaked it again overnight scrubbed it clean with q tips again and this time pushed the gear to actually make it spin (Don't recommend this and have heard not to, but I did, because again, what have I got to lose) put it back in. Cleared check engine codes and started her up.

INSTANT difference, instead of idling at 2k cold, she was at 1500, and after letting her warm up all the way she went to 900 and when I fixedy exhaust leak got her down to 750..

CN/ It took me 1 can of carb cleaner, 2 nights in gasoline, and 50+ q tips.... So even when you THINK you got it all clean try again because you really didn't.
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:58 AM   #488
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awesome thread, I'm going to try this out tomorrow to see if it'll fix my idle fluctuation.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:51 PM   #489
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Is the IACV flapper supposed to be 1/4 of the way open.........i know its not supposed to be stuck shut?

I have cleaned repeatedly, and believe the IACV is simply toast.

Tired of having to up rev to 2500rpm to not bogg down.

P0507
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Old 05-06-2014, 01:42 PM   #490
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Bump because i believe i am past the new gasket phase, but uncertian if the IACV its self is shot
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:09 PM   #491
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Originally Posted by Dr. octagon View Post
Bump because i believe i am past the new gasket phase, but uncertian if the IACV its self is shot
......... So clean it......
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Old 05-07-2014, 01:30 PM   #492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 143subaru View Post
......... So clean it......

Did you happen to read post #489)( 3 posts above) where i mentioned that i did that 2 twice now.

That was not the question i posed either.
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Old 05-07-2014, 06:21 PM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. octagon View Post

Did you happen to read post #489)( 3 posts above) where i mentioned that i did that 2 twice now.

That was not the question i posed either.
And did you not read mine that said it took MORE than two times, even soaking overnight... So Check you tude..... Bro
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:18 AM   #494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 143subaru View Post
And did you not read mine that said it took MORE than two times, even soaking overnight... So Check you tude..... Bro
I apologize,


Try this, **** off unless you have insight into the iacv flapper position/or iacv itself.

I don't give a **** about your methods of cleaning it.

The question pertained to flap position of the iacv, if you don't know stop typing, not interested in your yellow school bus iacv cleaning method.

Not your ****ing bro either
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:24 AM   #495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. octagon View Post
Is the IACV flapper supposed to be 1/4 of the way open.........i know its not supposed to be stuck shut?

I have cleaned repeatedly, and believe the IACV is simply toast.

Tired of having to up rev to 2500rpm to not bogg down.

P0507
What you can do if you did not record the original position of the IAC valve is this: (the screws are slotted for adjustment)

-Install the IACV with the motor screws loose enough to rotate. Make sure during reassembly that the tab is correctly lined up in the motor body. Also make sure that you lubricate the bearings that the armature pivots on.

No one ever mentions this as the cleaners used are very harsh and what little lube is in there gets washed away. This affects function as well. When it spins smoothly, you're done.

-Get a very long #2 phillips head screwdriver if you can't get a JIS one and install said IACV.

-Plug everything in and start the car and allow in the idle to settle.

-Rotate the valve to where idle is basically 750rpm. Blip to see if it dips below or comes slowly to rest. When it comes slowly to rest and doesn't fall past, you're done. Lock the screws (these do not need a lot of tension, hence the long (at least 14") screwdriver).

-Test drive vehicle.

If none of this works, there's a good chance that it's toast. Try this first before damning the valve.

-Randy
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:49 AM   #496
Dr. octagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomacGTi View Post
What you can do if you did not record the original position of the IAC valve is this: (the screws are slotted for adjustment)

-Install the IACV with the motor screws loose enough to rotate. Make sure during reassembly that the tab is correctly lined up in the motor body. Also make sure that you lubricate the bearings that the armature pivots on.

No one ever mentions this as the cleaners used are very harsh and what little lube is in there gets washed away. This affects function as well. When it spins smoothly, you're done.

-Get a very long #2 phillips head screwdriver if you can't get a JIS one and install said IACV.

-Plug everything in and start the car and allow in the idle to settle.

-Rotate the valve to where idle is basically 750rpm. Blip to see if it dips below or comes slowly to rest. When it comes slowly to rest and doesn't fall past, you're done. Lock the screws (these do not need a lot of tension, hence the long (at least 14") screwdriver).

-Test drive vehicle.

If none of this works, there's a good chance that it's toast. Try this first before damning the valve.

-Randy

Thank you sir
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Old 05-11-2014, 10:17 AM   #497
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Greetings, this is my first WRX thread.
I have a 2004 rex with about 200k miles. It was bone stock until 8 months ago I bought a Cobb tuner, stage 1 programming. Things were great. Then a week ago I put on the Cobb intake and air box. Things were great. Then later in the week (Friday) in stop and go commuting traffic, the idle in neutral was suddenly about 1900 RPM. I was able to “kick it down” to 1400, but this persisted for half an hour in bumper to bumper traffic, when inched forward putting it in gear yes the engine speed would drop, then return to 2000 rpm. Then when traffic opened up and I got back up to 80 mph, out of curiosity I put in the clutch and instead of 2000 rpm it dropped to 300, and nearly died. I verified this several times that the new idle was about 400, a couple times it raised to 900, now back to 400 and nearly dying.
Could this be the Idle Air Control Valve needing cleaning? Great thread!
Any suggestions where to start trouble shooting?
Thanks,
Gene
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:52 PM   #498
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Default did this help your idle?

my car idles at just under 1k. runs great and has always done this. mac is unhooked because i need a tune still since my dmic. but will cleaning my iacv maybe help my idle?? -02 wagon
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:54 PM   #499
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*maf
#fmic
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:42 PM   #500
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Gene, get a gasket and clean the valve. WyomingWagon, get a gasket and clean the valve.
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