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Old 04-13-2018, 12:44 AM   #1776
Mcooprr101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intence01 View Post
Rear is adjustable by 5mm I believe, no adjustment on the front.
I got the trophy cup coilovers not the GTWORX struts. These are full coilovers and are fully height adjustable
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:12 PM   #1777
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Here is a photo of the coilovers. Will be installed in a couple weeks along with the Whiteline front roll center kit.

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Old 04-17-2018, 11:15 AM   #1778
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Let us know how you like them.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:58 AM   #1779
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Default Swaping front WRX struts for sti

Would I get better suspension performance if I swapped my WRX front struts for STI struts??

Based on this post doing the rears would be pointless right?

Bottom line is it worth it?
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Old 05-29-2018, 03:33 PM   #1780
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Same question here as Gilad - I have a friend that's willing to sell me his STI struts (front and rear). Maybe my thread searching skills aren't the best, but I couldn't find anyone that has done this swap - and if I should expect any drop on the stock STI springs.

As for the install itself - will I need any other components or just the struts?

I have a 2016 WRX with the Sport package (Canadian car) which comes with the non-inverted fronts. Should be equivalent to a base 2016 in the states.
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:15 AM   #1781
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Originally Posted by WonderFunk View Post
Same question here as Gilad - I have a friend that's willing to sell me his STI struts (front and rear). Maybe my thread searching skills aren't the best, but I couldn't find anyone that has done this swap - and if I should expect any drop on the stock STI springs.

As for the install itself - will I need any other components or just the struts?

I have a 2016 WRX with the Sport package (Canadian car) which comes with the non-inverted fronts. Should be equivalent to a base 2016 in the states.
I've swapped my 2016 Limited struts/shocks for OEM STI ones. I re-used the WRX springs, tophats, etc. Ride height and max amount of negative camber (with OEM eccentric bolts) stayed the same. On the street there wasn't much difference (ride quality a bit worse), but I really like the low speed rebound and compression for auto-x.
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:51 AM   #1782
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Originally Posted by wrx12tt View Post
I've swapped my 2016 Limited struts/shocks for OEM STI ones. I re-used the WRX springs, tophats, etc. Ride height and max amount of negative camber (with OEM eccentric bolts) stayed the same. On the street there wasn't much difference (ride quality a bit worse), but I really like the low speed rebound and compression for auto-x.
Thanks for clearing that up!

Sounds like the cost to performance advantage would be minimal for how I use the car. I don't auto-x the car or track it yet - only had it for 2 years and it's my first "performance" car. Looking to get more seat time and do lessons before I try. When I get serious about it I'll probably be looking into the GTWORX struts or coilovers.

Looks like I'll be picking up some RCE Yellows for WRX struts today.
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Old 06-04-2018, 09:46 AM   #1783
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Looks like the pictures at the beginning of the thread are broken again
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Old 06-17-2018, 02:26 AM   #1784
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Hey!
I thought I would give a first hand comparison between coil overs and springs for the 2015MY WRX. My tire setup with the suspension setups 1-3 has been 265/35/18 MPSS on 18x9.5 +38 Rays Gramlights 57CRs.

I have ran the following configs on my WRX:

1) Suspension Setup (5k miles)
Stock suspension

2) Suspension Setup (3k miles)
Stock Struts
RCE Yellows
SPC LCA

3) Suspension Setup (27k miles)
Stock Struts
RCE Yellows
SPL LCA
SPL Toe Arms

4) Suspension Setup (2k miles)
GTWORX Bilstein Trophy Cup Coilovers
SPL LCA
SPL Toe Arms
Whiteline front anti roll kit

Alignment on both the coilovers and springs is the same from West End Alignement in Socal. Only difference is the coilovers are a hair lower than the springs and it was corner balanced. I wanted to give an opinion on ride quality from somebody that drives all around Los Angeles on the worst roads (I-710) to the best canyons. I use this car as a daily and I need it to be comfortable in traffic and bad terrain.


- Ride Quality

Springs:

I would say that the springs definitely made the car more composed throughout turns, however the ride quality ended up being a little more bouncy but controlled. The front end definitely was more comfortable. My street has 3 speedbumps and I was able to go over these speed bumps quicker compared to stock and not damage my front lip (even though the car was lower than stock). On the freeways it was just as comfortable, unless you hit a freeway like the 710 where it has a lot of tiny imperfections. A small problem I would also have with the stock springs and aftermarket springs is that when I am going slowly over a bump in a parking lot the car would lurch back and forth. This has not happened with coilovers since the install, the issue has been alleviated.

Coilovers:

The coilovers were in instant improvement once I left the alignment shop and they weren’t even settled. I can’t believe how much better a well matched spring and damper is compared to the aftermarket spring and OEM strut combo I had before was. The speed bumps at my street are much better, no longer do I rub in the rear from having a bouncy rear end (fenders are trimmed in the rear btw). On the freeway it also soaks up everything much better. For instance going in the left lane on the I-110 South next to the Imperial Highway exit there is a dip that caused my rear to always rub at 50-70mph. Now at that same speed with my car even lower, it does not rub. When going over tiny bumps it also allows the suspension to return to center much more quickly; also does not have a lasting ‘bounce effect’ that the stock strut had.

- Performance

Springs:

For springs the performance increase over stock is drastic. The body roll (no swaybars), has been drastically reduced and it allows for corners to be taken much more aggressively. I personally found that the response from turn in has been much better. This is also combined with the camber adjustment pieces I installed in the rear to dial the springs in with a good alignment.

Coilovers:

The performance difference isn’t as drastic as when switching to aftermarket springs from a stock setup. I personally noticed though body roll took a reduction and is planted more than I could imagine. I personally don’t think I would ever need to install a rear sway bar after using this setup as the car feels square no matter how hard I push it through a corner. This setup is overkill for the street, and will be tested thoroughly in the fall come track time.

- Value

The value for springs cannot be underestimated, I personally think everyone should go this route and see if it enough for them. I did it first and had springs on the car for two years without issues and loved every moment of it. Nearing this May, I just wanted more performance and moved to coilovers. I do think coilovers are a great deal if you need the adjustment or the guarantee of a good combination of spring/damper setup. I’d like to thank Myles from RCE for his support with my car and making these products, and by the way this is not sponsored, I paid for everything myself.

I wanted to leave some photos of the ride height of my GTWORX Trophy Cup Coilovers

Coilovers:



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Old 07-02-2018, 05:24 PM   #1785
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Hey all, just a few questions/advice needed on camber/toe...

I've got a 2016 sti with H&R coilovers. I'm planning on running some 18x10's.

I also plan on getting verus LCA's and maybe full spectrum performance ultimate camber plates (unless someone has something better to suggest). would you all suggest anything else, such as toe arms?

I plan to have everything done at a shop, but I also want to make sure I have all the parts necessary to ensure that I don't have bad camber or toe (though I'm not sure what the numbers should be at with this kind of setup).

Thanks!

Last edited by star fox; 07-02-2018 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:50 PM   #1786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by star fox View Post
Hey all, just a few questions/advice needed on camber/toe...

I've got a 2016 sti with H&R coilovers. I'm planning on running some 18x10's.

I also plan on getting verus LCA's and maybe full spectrum performance ultimate camber plates (unless someone has something better to suggest). would you all suggest anything else, such as toe arms?

I plan to have everything done at a shop, but I also want to make sure I have all the parts necessary to ensure that I don't have bad camber or toe (though I'm not sure what the numbers should be at with this kind of setup).

Thanks!
How much camber do you want to run?
What kind of driving do you do? (i.e. any auto-x or track days)
What type of tires do you use?

- Andrew
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:14 AM   #1787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering View Post
How much camber do you want to run?
What kind of driving do you do? (i.e. any auto-x or track days)
What type of tires do you use?

- Andrew
I hate that I haven't completed my build, but I'll do my best to answer these:
I'm still researching camber, but I suppose the lowest camber I can reasonably get to? I see lots of folks in the low 1's so I'm assuming I should aim for that...

Mostly street driving with the plan to eventually track.

Not set on tires yet, but may end up with a set of potenzas
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:30 PM   #1788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by star fox View Post
I hate that I haven't completed my build, but I'll do my best to answer these:
I'm still researching camber, but I suppose the lowest camber I can reasonably get to? I see lots of folks in the low 1's so I'm assuming I should aim for that...

Mostly street driving with the plan to eventually track.

Not set on tires yet, but may end up with a set of potenzas
I have had SPC control arms, then SPL control arms with SPL toe arms. My alignment shop (not general shop, performance oriented) was delighted to see I got quality components that were overkill for the street but allowed magnitudes more of adjustability. I was happy to shell out the money for something that I know won't hinder my ability to get any camber/toe spec I desire.

I heard good things about other brands such as Megan Racing. I just personally can vouch for SPL, as many others can too. I would say toe arms aren't as necessary as rear LCAs, but if you can afford both, do so. Just my .02.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:06 PM   #1789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by star fox View Post
I hate that I haven't completed my build, but I'll do my best to answer these:
I'm still researching camber, but I suppose the lowest camber I can reasonably get to? I see lots of folks in the low 1's so I'm assuming I should aim for that...

Mostly street driving with the plan to eventually track.

Not set on tires yet, but may end up with a set of potenzas
You really need to sort out what your plans are for the car before goin mad with the parts cannon other wise you're going to waste money and not be as happy as you should be with your car.

It sounds like right now you have a basic street car that you just want to lower a bit say around an inch. You want some sporty feeling but you're not competing for anything.

Give that I'm not sure you really need those control arms or the camber plates.

Factory the rear camber is locked at -2.0deg, lower it about an inch and you'll be around -2.2deg.

Factory you'll have a little toe in in the rear to aid stability. If you want the car to feel a little sportier you can get rid of that. Assuming you have your factory lower control arms your factory toe links will have plenty of adjustment to achieve either scenario.

Moving to the front, you have one set of camber bolts from the factory. At stock height they can adjust from about +0.5 deg to -1.5deg, cars are usually delivered around - .6deg. If you lower it an inch you'll end up around -1.3deg as your max negative. (assuming those coil overs keep the same geometry on the lower mount as factory being german Tuv approved they likely do).

again you'll have a little toe in from the factory. you can have that zero'd out and the car will feel a little sportier. there are not toe adjustment issues in the front.

If you use the factory front and rear strut tops which those H&R coilovers look designed to allow you to do they you don't have to spend the money on any further parts and you'll end up with much lower noise vibration and harshness than you would moving to camber plates in the front.

Your alignment spec will come to zero toe all around and you'll have -2.2R/-1.3F camber. That is a sportier alignment that you have stock including a more playful camber (f/r) balance. If all you do is play on the street this will make you happy and you shouldn't see any irregular wear.

Tire wise there is no reason to get nuts with a potenza RE71R here, they're expensive ,wear super fast, and puncture prone.
If you want to spend money michelin pilot 4s are king here.
cheaper options are bridgestone Re760, BFG sport comp2

If you want to do performance driving in an AutoX or track setting then you'll want a more aggressive alignment and you'll have add NVH and buy more parts.

lets say you wanted to a still streetable but fun alignment, keep zero toe and move to -2.5F/-2.0R camber (I personally run this and love it). Irregular tire wear isn't an issue and with this camber balance the car is quite playful ( handling characteristic is balanced and easily shifts with weight transfer)

At the rear you need lower control arms to reduce the camber, if you only go to -2.0 you should still have enough adjustment in your factory toe arms but if you changed your camber much more in either direction you'd end up needing aftermarket toe arms to compensate and keep your zero toe.

Up front you're back to needing those camber plates to get to -2.5deg.
Toe will be no issue still.

Here is where you move to the nutty 200tw tires.
RE71R is the god tire for AutoX
For fun track days you want something that doesn't wear quite that fast like Hankook R-S4, or the budget friendly Falken 615K+
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:02 PM   #1790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uofime View Post
You really need to sort out what your plans are for the car before goin mad with the parts cannon other wise you're going to waste money and not be as happy as you should be with your car.

It sounds like right now you have a basic street car that you just want to lower a bit say around an inch. You want some sporty feeling but you're not competing for anything.

Give that I'm not sure you really need those control arms or the camber plates.

Factory the rear camber is locked at -2.0deg, lower it about an inch and you'll be around -2.2deg.

Factory you'll have a little toe in in the rear to aid stability. If you want the car to feel a little sportier you can get rid of that. Assuming you have your factory lower control arms your factory toe links will have plenty of adjustment to achieve either scenario.

Moving to the front, you have one set of camber bolts from the factory. At stock height they can adjust from about +0.5 deg to -1.5deg, cars are usually delivered around - .6deg. If you lower it an inch you'll end up around -1.3deg as your max negative. (assuming those coil overs keep the same geometry on the lower mount as factory being german Tuv approved they likely do).

again you'll have a little toe in from the factory. you can have that zero'd out and the car will feel a little sportier. there are not toe adjustment issues in the front.

If you use the factory front and rear strut tops which those H&R coilovers look designed to allow you to do they you don't have to spend the money on any further parts and you'll end up with much lower noise vibration and harshness than you would moving to camber plates in the front.

Your alignment spec will come to zero toe all around and you'll have -2.2R/-1.3F camber. That is a sportier alignment that you have stock including a more playful camber (f/r) balance. If all you do is play on the street this will make you happy and you shouldn't see any irregular wear.

Tire wise there is no reason to get nuts with a potenza RE71R here, they're expensive ,wear super fast, and puncture prone.
If you want to spend money michelin pilot 4s are king here.
cheaper options are bridgestone Re760, BFG sport comp2

If you want to do performance driving in an AutoX or track setting then you'll want a more aggressive alignment and you'll have add NVH and buy more parts.

lets say you wanted to a still streetable but fun alignment, keep zero toe and move to -2.5F/-2.0R camber (I personally run this and love it). Irregular tire wear isn't an issue and with this camber balance the car is quite playful ( handling characteristic is balanced and easily shifts with weight transfer)

At the rear you need lower control arms to reduce the camber, if you only go to -2.0 you should still have enough adjustment in your factory toe arms but if you changed your camber much more in either direction you'd end up needing aftermarket toe arms to compensate and keep your zero toe.

Up front you're back to needing those camber plates to get to -2.5deg.
Toe will be no issue still.

Here is where you move to the nutty 200tw tires.
RE71R is the god tire for AutoX
For fun track days you want something that doesn't wear quite that fast like Hankook R-S4, or the budget friendly Falken 615K+
Wow! Thank you for this.

A few notes:

It looks like I am going to be sticking to an 18x9.5 +38 Volk TE37 wheel, or something very similar. Probably running a 255 or 265. So now I am not so concerned about rubbing, and not really planning on lowering the car.

I've been told that the front camber plates can help with control, but I am assuming that is not really true for my setup. I'm already on the coilovers, so don't plan on lowering or doing anything with those. From what I read, the LCAs can help with adjustments compared to the stock arms, but maybe this is only if I am going with a wider wheel?

I like the idea of the more playful camber, so maybe the front camber plates and LCAs are a good idea?

The potenzas were only mentioned because I may be getting them with a good trade deal, not because I'm going out and buying them.
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:55 PM   #1791
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Can I used 2015+ STI springs on my 2010 WRX?
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Old 07-25-2018, 09:31 AM   #1792
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Would 2015-2017 STI rear shocks be a worthwhile upgrade for my 2018 WRX premium? They're only ~100 each. Looking to stay in DS autocross class but don't plan on doing the Bilstein/GTWorx set because of cost.

How different are the '18 premium shocks/struts compared to before? I know RCE is doing a writeup, but any early info?

Edit: Would a rear swaybar be a better use of money?

Last edited by DarkGreyMetallic; 07-28-2018 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:23 PM   #1793
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Currently at a crossroads on my 2016 WRX. Lease is up in 8 months and still deciding if I want to keep it or sell it and get into a more performance orientated car from factory (STI, Type R).

What would I need to do to my suspension in order to get handling similar to a stock STI or Type R? Currently have just a rear swaybar that did help.

Is the LSD & torque vectoring worth the money to upgrade?

Trying to weigh out the costs of required mods, if the amount is similar to what I would need to spend to get into a higher tier car then I am more inclined to do that. Looking to weekend warrior, auto X/track (but just for fun.
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:05 PM   #1794
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Well I’ve got noise in my front end. I’ve had rce yellows and whiteline rear Lucas on my 16 wrx premium for about 3k miles. 29k on the car. I’ve checked the top bolts on the struts and they are tight. Other than really tightening the crap out of them and all the other bolts is there anything else I need to check? I took my time with the install and took the struts apart without an impact and made sure to line the top hats up with the clevus tab when installing. Absolutely handles great and no noise when driving hard just when pulling in and out of my driveway when I go over a slight bump at low speeds while turning.

Thanks

Noise started about 2500 miles after the install
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:03 AM   #1795
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Default 2008 sti shocks on a 2015 wrx

Wait so you're saying 08+ sti shocks will fit on a 15+ wrx?....
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:51 AM   #1796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yidea View Post
Currently at a crossroads on my 2016 WRX. Lease is up in 8 months and still deciding if I want to keep it or sell it and get into a more performance orientated car from factory (STI, Type R).

What would I need to do to my suspension in order to get handling similar to a stock STI or Type R? Currently have just a rear swaybar that did help.

Is the LSD & torque vectoring worth the money to upgrade?

Trying to weigh out the costs of required mods, if the amount is similar to what I would need to spend to get into a higher tier car then I am more inclined to do that. Looking to weekend warrior, auto X/track (but just for fun.
For less money than buying a STI etc.. I was able to build my WRX to compete and hands down destroy any stock STI.. it just takes time and some elbow grease.. here is my build for more info. https://wheelwell.com/killadawg-09-1/1waq/2016-subaru-wrx
Better suspension, braking, power, weight, control, yet still sleeper. For a little less than full price of a sti or type r if you are willing to do the mechanical work yourself. good luck
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Old 08-02-2018, 08:58 PM   #1797
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have anyone used whiteline lowered springs and Cusco Touring A Shocks and have any feedback?
could not find any results in this thread, maybe they're not as popular as the RCE/Eibach sets.

I can get these at better price locally in AUS hence why i am looking into them but have't found much feedback.
difference between STI & WRX spring is the lowering height, spring rates are the same

lowers .78" f/r
6.1kg/mm (329lb/in) front
5.8kg/mm (325lb/in) rear


appreciate any input
Cheers

Last edited by jcf_dori; 08-02-2018 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 08-20-2018, 12:23 AM   #1798
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Hi there, I am also very interested in the Cusco Touring A struts... In Aus right now they are available for $510 USD.

My main concerns with them are that they will either be too much like OEM (unlikely) or hard as nails and designed for Japanese roads. There is next to no feedback out there for them, I think, mainly due to the fact that you guys in the USA don't tend to buy them much. Cusco claim that in *most* applications when adjusted to 12 'clock they are set to std rates and then can go up to 140% stiffer when at max setting. Also:


*40-way shock dampening adjustable

* Upright, Twin tube, OEM dimension shock strut

* OEM Dimension: Shock overall length, Rod Length, Stroke, Spring Seat
Use with Factory upper mounts, OEM (big) spring reused (Also complies to OEM dimension lowering springs)

*Newly developed CPRV (Corrective Pressure Regulating Valve) featured
Retains comfort and stability especially when dampening is set at a soft level

* Noiseless design (prevents “squishy” sounds commonly experienced with OEM)

* CUSCO Electric Damper Control Unit "e-Con2" compatible (sold separately)

* 140% stiffer than factory OEM dampening rate (when set at MAX Hard)
Springs not included. Reuse of OEM factory springs will not change vehicle height
_______


I managed to get some feedback from a Cusco Japanese distributor via an excellent local supplier and am interested to hear what you guys think. Please keep in mind the person quoted speaks Japanese as their first language:


“As I discussed with our suspension team, your customer’s car might use OEM factory Bilstein shock absorbers.

If so, it seems to feel under-dampened rather than NON-Bilstein model.

Following data is damping force of Touring-A and OEM factory shock absorbers.



Touring-A 6A5 65T A


*At the damping force when turn the dial to clock wise until the full clock wise position. (The most stiffer position)

0.3mm/s

Front =Rebound2180N / Compression 600N

Rear =Rebound 1700N / Compression 700N



OEM factory Bilstein shock


0.3mm/s

Front =Rebound 1187N / Compression 618N

Rear =Rebound 373N / Compression 382N



If your customer bother hopping or unstable under cornering, Touring -A may make the troubles improving.

However, both shock absorber stroke ranges are same.

Touring-A rebound damping force has wide range. It will be possible to delay a speed until under dampened.

In case using Touring-A, it may not avoid under dampened unfortunately.

It’s caused from vehicle characteristic.



Feedback welcomed.
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:27 AM   #1799
jcf_dori
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that's great info @bungarra but i think for the price + lowered springs + the dreaded strut tops constantly failing, i may be better off saving a bit more for a set of coilovers and go down that path. A bonus is the installation of the coilovers can be done easier and with less tools, saving some more $$. I've been looking at the ISC basic N1 (street comfort valving), BC Racing V1 (reds) or MCA Street essentials.

Good luck with whichever path you choose!
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Old 08-20-2018, 02:20 AM   #1800
bungarra
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The MCA purples @ $2k AUD are the starting point IMO ( for coilovers).

I'm keen to hear feedback from those in the know about the data provided by Cusco. I have a premium and the shocks aren't performing well with RCE Yellows. I am not interesrted in c/overs and can't really afford GTWorx or even B6/8s tbh (shipping to Au etc.) . These are well made and much cheaper, but are they going to improve the bounce? It certainly looks so in the rear, what about the fronts?
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