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Old 10-04-2019, 12:59 AM   #1
Nomotive
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Default Kicker subwoofer not available for 2019-2020 WRX/STI

I noticed that the kicker subwoofer is not available on the 2019-2020 STIs... is there a compatibility issue with the headunit?

https://parts.subaru.com/accessories...udioMedia.html
https://parts.subaru.com/accessories...udioMedia.html
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Old 10-06-2019, 11:36 AM   #2
gunz4me
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One of my installer friends told me that the volume control from the factory head unit was switched to the CAN Bus for 2019 with their updated Starlink. I was somewhat confused, because I thought they did this beginning with the 2018 model year, but that may be why there is nothing for the 2019+ models.

Going further, I'm somewhat screwed for replacing the buggy as all get out HK system in my 2019 WRX UNLESS I want to cut wires. I'd rather NOT do that and I'm hoping the iDatlink Maestro RR2 allows me to do what I want to do.
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Old 01-17-2020, 06:24 PM   #3
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i currently have an MY16 wrx limited with the kicker sub and also want to know if it is compatible with my upcoming purchase of an MY20 limited. I see some places where they say it is compatible.

Even Subaru Canada it is listed as an option for MY20
https://m.subaru.ca/WebPage.aspx?Web...&colourID=4452


https://subaruonlineparts.com/mobile...er-p-4091.html
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:46 AM   #4
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I placed an order for one about 3 weeks ago at the dealer for my 19 wrx premium. They called me a week later telling me Subaru would not ship it because it was not compatible with 2019s. I have the non HK system.
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:08 PM   #5
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I actually really liked the simplicity of the factory 10" kicker powered subwoofer. it wasn't the greatest in the world, but it was just enough thump for me. it fit perfectly in the location and has a built in amp.

so what are some options to keep the factory fit/form/convenience? I have no problem running wiring; I just don't want to mount an external amp anywhere or take up precious trunk cargo space since there is no 5 door hatchback again. could I just take the current factory kicker sub, remove the proprietary wired 100w amp and install a standard amp in its place in the same spot on the enclosure? going to be installing a kenwood dnx996xr.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:13 AM   #6
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I tried to source the Kicker speakers and that Sub unit endorsed by Subaru but gave up due to high cost and also postage from the USA. so I decided to go Kicker from an online shop that still fit the Subaru factory positions. I did all six speakers and the Tweeters up on the top dash area are actually 3.5 inch speakers and tweeters all wrapped into one and they kick arse. I opted for an under seat Kicker sub. compared to the crap factory speakers, Im a happy man. I also then applied Sound deadening to all four door cavities hooked up to my factory Starlink/Nav system in my MY17 XV

BEST THING i ever did and all out cost AU was around $650 including the Sub install, I did the rest myself.

https://www.kicker.com/hideaway
https://www.kicker.com/2016-ds-series
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:20 PM   #7
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So I am guessing I could just cut the harness off; use/run power, ground, remote turn-on and convert the existing signal wires +/- to rca and use the preamp outputs from the aftermarket head unit.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:25 PM   #8
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I have the Subaru accessory sub in my 19 Sti non HK. it works fine.
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Old 02-18-2020, 08:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smunczen View Post
I have the Subaru accessory sub in my 19 Sti non HK. it works fine.
Good to know. Do you need the bass limiter harness adapter thing to plug in ?

Last edited by murrdogg24; 02-18-2020 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 04-12-2020, 09:45 PM   #10
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the kicker amp is expecting speaker level inputs. So decided to go an alternative route with a Rockford Fosgate pbr300x1 instead. If anyone is interested I have the brand-new kicker amp and wiring harness available.

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Old 08-27-2020, 07:53 PM   #11
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If anyone is interested this worked out great.
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Old 10-08-2020, 04:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joostin420 View Post
If anyone is interested this worked out great.
Hello Joostin420 (blazeit)

I recently picked up a used 2018 Sti and i am VERY VERY interested in what you did here with the kicker subwoofer, if you have time, do you mind if i pick your brain a little and ask a few questions about what and how you did it?

A bit of background info, my STI came with some audio work but it sounded like absolute **** compared to my previous car with a custom audio system so i feel like some background is warranted.

This is a base STI, non navigation (i believe) the previous owner installed a Seicane android head unit, all 6 kicker speakers upgrade, and the powered kicker subwoofer in the trunk. The audio sounds HORRIBLE from the door speakers, but the subwoofer hits pretty clean and way overpowers the doors. These android head units (from previous experience) are not very well amplified internally, so i found that you must install an amp to power the door speakers if you want good sound (similar head unit in previous car, had to install an amp to get good sound)

Ok, so on top of that, previous owner ran his own speaker wire to the front doors (probably thought he was going to get better sound that way ) and i have already undone that, so now all speakers are using factory wiring as original.

I purchased a mini amp (soundstream ST4.1000D) and will use that to power the door speakers using the pre-amp output from the radio, ok no problem there.

The problem began when i pulled out the head unit to reveal the massive crossover block and wiring harness of the Kicker Subwoofer and it lead me to analyze whether i can just send pre-amp output from head unit directly to the Kicker subwoofer and power it like that, basically completely eliminating the kicker harness and just using power, ground, and RCA output from my head unit. But i see you already investigated that route and found that the kicker sub IS expecting speaker level inputs, so that leads me to the next idea.

Can i just totally eliminate that odd crossover block thing in the kicker harness and wire the kicker sub using power, ground, and amped outputs from my android headunit, and pre-amp output from the HU to the soundstream amp to send sound to the doors.

-So; pre-amp outputs from HU, to amplifier to the doors

-and; amped output from head unit to the kicker sub harness directly (omitting the T-harness and crossover block)

Also, what is that crossover block there for? I noticed whatever it does, it does it to the signal going to the door speakers too. What is going on there???

Thanks in advance, and sorry for long writeup.
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Old 10-13-2020, 06:49 PM   #13
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I have an MY20 limited with harman kardon and I really liked the oem form fitment of the kicker sub in my MY16 limited (no hk).

the subs kicker amp is expecting speaker level inputs. So decided to go an alternative route with a Rockford Fosgate pbr300x1 instead. Made things much more simple this way by just running cabling as normal for the amp and removing t-harness and built-in crossover cabling and kicker amp from the equation which would not have worked in my situation anyway.

" Can i just totally eliminate that odd crossover block thing in the kicker harness and wire the kicker sub using power, ground, and amped outputs from my android headunit, and pre-amp output from the HU to the soundstream amp to send sound to the doors.

-So; pre-amp outputs from HU, to amplifier to the doors

-and; amped output from head unit to the kicker sub harness directly (omitting the T-harness and crossover block)"

This should work.
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Old 05-05-2021, 12:58 PM   #14
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Has anyone used Kicker shallow mount 6 3/4 subs in the doors? I don't have the factory sub in my 18 STI and need some bass. Crutchfield is saying they fit the front doors, but not the rear. Are the rear doors super shallow?

I did replace the head unit and added a small form factor amp behind it that can power the subs
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Old 05-08-2021, 03:28 PM   #15
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I wouldn't recommend subwoofers in the doors, but that is just me....
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunz4me View Post
I wouldn't recommend subwoofers in the doors, but that is just me....
I'd agree, doors are hard enough to stop from rattling etc with a midbass let alone sub frequencies!
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_E_D View Post
Has anyone used Kicker shallow mount 6 3/4 subs in the doors? I don't have the factory sub in my 18 STI and need some bass. Crutchfield is saying they fit the front doors, but not the rear. Are the rear doors super shallow?
Are the rear doors the same size as the fronts? I thought the rear doors ran a smaller "mid-woofer" in the door. I can't remember all of the photos and what-not, but I'm sure a quick youtube search may answer that question...

Crutchfield is usually pretty spot on; however, they work with/list exact, direct factory fitments. If it requires the slightest bit of custom install, they list the item as "does not fit".

Sometimes, something as simple as a 1/4" (6mm) spacer that is needed to make a speaker work in a location (and still fit under the factory grill) will get a no-go from Crutchfield. Adapters are not necessarily the same thing as spacers.

Doesn't Subaru use a 3-point mounting method (think Mazda rotor from the rotary engine...or Dorito chip). At least they don't rivet the speakers into the doors like VW does.

Subs in doors don't do well. Shoot, even Mazda's 8"-9" door sub with the Bose Audio is only meh...but it really throws a wrench into the equation when people go to replace it...not only because of size, but because its BOSE too

Curse you Bose...curse you.
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Old 05-14-2021, 08:00 AM   #18
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Ha! The Bose door subs in my girlfriend's speed3 are why I asked this. The sound in that car was not stellar, but still light years ahead of the STi. I've added a sony head unit and an audiopipe micro amp. I guess I will go with regular 6.5 mids in all four doors and consider a compact sub under the seat.
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Old 07-10-2021, 12:02 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_E_D View Post
Ha! The Bose door subs in my girlfriend's speed3 are why I asked this. The sound in that car was not stellar, but still light years ahead of the STi. I've added a sony head unit and an audiopipe micro amp. I guess I will go with regular 6.5 mids in all four doors and consider a compact sub under the seat.
There are companies that make a 8" sub that fits in the CX-5 door...but it isn't a BOSE component and therefore does not have those funky impedances. It was also a shallow mount/inverted magnet setup to make for a very shallow mount location; like inside a door.

I'm not going to try and find what woofer those with the BOSE system went with, but I think it's mounting depth was also adjustable; basically a threaded ring concept.
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Old 07-17-2021, 11:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smunczen View Post
I have the Subaru accessory sub in my 19 Sti non HK. it works fine.
MOST but not all of the places i see it for sale doo say it fits 15-20. Did you install it yourself?

I dont really want to replace the head unit i feel that would be the most expensive option. I'm not crazy about it but.. if i get a kicker key amp to power the front doors and tweeters, then leave the rears powered by the HU and get this OEM kicker sub i feel it would be pretty well balanced. Just want to know if its plug and play with the 2020.

Edit: oh also, i assume the kicker amp on the sub is fed by the rear speaker signal?

Last edited by jonoc4; 07-17-2021 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 08-23-2021, 11:30 PM   #21
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Did anyone manage to get one on their 2019-2020 STI? Someone in my area is selling theirs (H630SFJ302) for cheap but of course he didn't tear out the harnesses so I was looking to see if I could get the harness, but I can't seem to find the right one.
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Old 12-20-2021, 12:57 PM   #22
Laborchet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joostin420 View Post
I have an MY20 limited with harman kardon and I really liked the oem form fitment of the kicker sub in my MY16 limited (no hk).

the subs kicker amp is expecting speaker level inputs. So decided to go an alternative route with a Rockford Fosgate pbr300x1 instead. Made things much more simple this way by just running cabling as normal for the amp and removing t-harness and built-in crossover cabling and kicker amp from the equation which would not have worked in my situation anyway.

Can i just totally eliminate that odd crossover block thing in the kicker harness and wire the kicker sub using power, ground, and amped outputs from my android headunit, and pre-amp output from the HU to the soundstream amp to send sound to the doors.

-So; pre-amp outputs from HU, to amplifier to the doors

-and; amped output from head unit to the kicker sub harness directly (omitting the T-harness and crossover block)

This should work.
How does the subwoofer sound with the fosgate amp? Are you still using the original kicker speaker or did you swap that out too?

I find this unit to be kind of weak and doesnt really hit very well. I am considering swapping the speaker with a 300w RMS subwoofer and an amp to match it, basically only using the kicker box and mounting location but removing all the electronics for better stuff.
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