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Old 11-06-2015, 06:47 PM   #1
Subisnob
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Default Who said a WRX can't be like a Caddy???

well sort of. The 2016 WRX is one of the loudest in cab cars I have ever driven. Between the summer tire noise, wind noise and extremely boomy trunk area, I knew I was going to have to do something immediately. I couldn't hear my kid talking in the back seat, and I kept looking back to see if the trunk lid was open. There is literally no padding/sound control in the trunk area!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I apologize ahead of time. My pictures suck. I have only half the pics, but you get the idea....Hopefully.

So, I had the car 3 days and started the tear down. I already bought the parts prior to picking the car up.lol Total time took 4 days which included a complete stereo install. i did this a few weeks ago so hopefully I remembered everything.

Products used:
80mil Butyl squares w/thick aluminum facing (bulk unbranded HQ sh|t)
1/8" Dynaliner
1/4" Dynlainer
1/2" Stinger Carpet pad (1/8" MLV & 3/8"CCF..<--good stuff and Way cheaper than second skin
1/6" Noico CCF. thicker than stated(~1/4") and not as rubbery as Dynaliner but literally 1/3rd the cost. I used this for my floor and trunk.











I knocked on every panel and every square inch. I ended up with a little more than 50% coverage to get the 'ting' noise to a 'thunk' noise.

I added Stinger Carpet pad on top of my 80mil Butyl squares.



Pics I don't have and I apologize:
I pulled down the headliner and did 100% coverage of the 80mil butyl followed by 100% 1/4" Dynaliner. The only areas of the roof I did not get were the support beams that went around the perimeter. Those got only a thinner layer of 1/8" Dynaliner.

Doors: Panels themselves got 100% butyl coverage on the outer panel on bottom half of the door, and as much butyl as I could put on the inside of the inner panel to thicken up the super thin framework.
Then 1/8" Dynaliner in 2 pieces for the coverage.
Door Panels got Butyl applied to any area that was flat/flimsy. Followed by some 1/4" Dynaliner

Under rear seat: few small butyl squares added in conjunction with the already factory jute, then 75% 1/6" Noico liner.

I dont have a pic, but I also added 1/6" Noico liner to all the exposed areas that the Stinger carpet pad didn't cover!!

Rear Deck lid, 50% butyl followed by 100% 1/4" Dynaliner.
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:48 PM   #2
Subisnob
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Here's some trunk pics which got the heaviest dampening of all!!!

Trunk got more than 50% butyl coverage and 90% 1/2" Stinger carpet pad coverage on floor and rear quarter panels. I used 1/4" Dynaliner on the area in front of spare tire, and all in the wheel well. I used Noico liner on rear strut braces, the back wall.

Trunk lid: 100% butyl coverage and 1/4" Dynaliner to follow.








--->Car is extremely quiet. Only thing I can hear going down the road is wind noise on the pillars. I can now hear my kid talking to me when he is sitting in the back seat. I could not hear him before even with windows up, radio off. It was pretty pathetic.
My cousin got in the other night and right away commented on how quiet the car was. He drives a 2013 Focus ST.

Most of the stuff was a snug fit, especially the trunk, but you could never tell by looking at it all now.

I used ~120sq/ft of 80mil butyl
2-rolls 1/4" Dynaliner (24sq/ft total)
2 rolls 1/8" Dynaliner (24sq/ft total)
3/4 roll of 1/6" Noico (24sq/ft total) Will likely use up rest somewhere..lol
3 boxes Stinger 1/2" carpet pad(36 sq/ft total)

Total cost for elegance and added weight: $475


and my amp set up for those interested. Ran all wires neatly while carpet was out.
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Old 11-07-2015, 03:15 PM   #3
rwd_to_awd
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Which part would you say provided the most benefit in insulating road noise? As much as I would love to do the same, the cost of labor would be prohibitive for me, but maybe there is some low hanging fruit that can be done more easily than the rest of it?

BTW, I'm having the speakers swapped out this weekend and my front doors are getting sound deadening with stinger roadkill material + 1/8 dynaliner on top of it. Rear doors are getting roadkill only. I'm betting that will not make enough of a difference though.
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Old 11-07-2015, 03:42 PM   #4
BigDumbJay
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Subbed this thread. I love this car, but it feels like I'm going down the road in a soda can.
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:46 PM   #5
WRXkapa
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What is the weight per sq/ft of everything or the total weight added?
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:58 PM   #6
CoronaWRX
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Great job! Did all the rattles go away as well? I've been thinking about doing this just to get rid of all the rattles my 16' has!
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Old 11-08-2015, 01:25 AM   #7
rwd_to_awd
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I wonder why put the carpet pad under the spare tire vs over it. In theory it should work the same but if you lay it over the spare tire you don't need to worry about covering all the nooks and crannies and can save on material.

In fact couldn't one just put the MLV barrier type material on the back of the rear seats and block off the trunk noise this way? You'd still need to stick the butyl squares to the trunk as usual, but there could be a major weight and money savings on MLV type materials like that carpet pad. Just a thought, I could of course be completely wrong here

Last edited by rwd_to_awd; 11-08-2015 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:51 AM   #8
GreySTI2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwd_to_awd View Post
Which part would you say provided the most benefit in insulating road noise? As much as I would love to do the same, the cost of labor would be prohibitive for me, but maybe there is some low hanging fruit that can be done more easily than the rest of it?

BTW, I'm having the speakers swapped out this weekend and my front doors are getting sound deadening with stinger roadkill material + 1/8 dynaliner on top of it. Rear doors are getting roadkill only. I'm betting that will not make enough of a difference though.
The trunk I think is the worst, but you'll notice a difference just in what you're doing. The trunk is easy to do though. Order some supplies online, spend a couple hours on the trunk, you won't be upset you did.

Headliner is another big one, but it's a job and a half to get that down and back up. I just used Dynamat all over and I'm really impressed with the results. When I go through it again, maybe I'll do more.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:31 AM   #9
Subisnob
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sorry for delay in response guys. Very busy yesterday doing leaf clean-up...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDumbJay View Post
Subbed this thread. I love this car, but it feels like I'm going down the road in a soda can.
Exactly, but not anymore

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXkapa View Post
What is the weight per sq/ft of everything or the total weight added?
Less than what most people carry in their trunk..lol
In total I would guess ~130lbs. The heaviest in weight was the 80mil butyl that is very much needed because certain area like the interior panels of the doors are extremely flimsy!
I wasn't worried about the weight. People spend too much time worrying about weight yet add a 2nd battery, couple of subs to their trunk in heavy arse MDF boxes and keep their trunk full of crap.
You lose 1/10th a sec for every 100lbs lost/gained so it's barely even negligible.
My comfort is more precious than that .1sec


Quote:
Originally Posted by CoronaWRX View Post
Great job! Did all the rattles go away as well? I've been thinking about doing this just to get rid of all the rattles my 16' has!
Thank you. Wish I had more pics.
I didnt really have any rattles before and it certainly has no rattles now. Granted, the car only had 187miles on it when I tore it apart..lol
I would highly Reccomend buying a large roll of Noico 1/6" liner to rid your car of at least the rattles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwd_to_awd View Post
I wonder why put the carpet pad under the spare tire vs over it. In theory it should work the same but if you lay it over the spare tire you don't need to worry about covering all the nooks and crannies and can save on material.

In fact couldn't one just put the MLV barrier type material on the back of the rear seats and block off the trunk noise this way? You'd still need to stick the butyl squares to the trunk as usual, but there could be a major weight and money savings on MLV type materials like that carpet pad. Just a thought, I could of course be completely wrong here
OK. few points to be taken here...
The carpet pad has a decouple layer and then MLV. This padding should be touching the metal to further dampen/diminish and decouple the sound. What I mean is, reduce vibrations in the metal that turn into sound waves.
Also, I put a layer under the spare tire AND over
I also plan to add more Noico the the underside of the folding carpet mat that pulls out. Why not?
Save on material? I understand overkill, but if you go the save material route, your car will never be done properly. There is a minimum requirement needed for absorption/blocking.
You cannot so it that way. The boomy sound will reverberate inside the trunk, move along the pillars and exit there. Unless you spend extra time on the pillars, you will get more unwated noise from them. You really need to focus on areas closest to the mufflers and driveline/wheels and stop sound at source.
Secondly, I've been keeping my rear driver seat open/down for my sub. It allows more sub sound to travel into the cab because it gets somewhat muted with the seat up. I keep looking back now, not to see if my trunk is open, but to make sure my rear seat is down because it's so quiet in the cab.

GreySTI2015 answered your other question.
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:42 PM   #10
saiyen
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How hard was it to do the floor? Removing the seats/carpet? Are there guides to do this?

I did this sound deadening to my doors, with Stinger Roadkill Mat and Second Skin luxury liner pro and it made a big difference. Now I'm toying with the idea of doing my floor but have no idea how to remove the seats and carpet.

Also, how is the Stinger carpet pad? A couple amazon reviews says that it smells, which is why i went with second skins's luxury liner pro.
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Old 12-19-2015, 10:19 AM   #11
brendan114
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I think this is awesome and filled with guidance. I may end up following this thread and doing the same thing.

Thank you for the post.
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:21 PM   #12
JordanM9
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If you think the 2015+ are loud try driving any of the older models
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:04 PM   #13
Subisnob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saiyen View Post
How hard was it to do the floor? Removing the seats/carpet? Are there guides to do this?

I did this sound deadening to my doors, with Stinger Roadkill Mat and Second Skin luxury liner pro and it made a big difference. Now I'm toying with the idea of doing my floor but have no idea how to remove the seats and carpet.

Also, how is the Stinger carpet pad? A couple amazon reviews says that it smells, which is why i went with second skins's luxury liner pro.

Carpet removal was pretty easy. Seats are only held in by 4 bolts each. Center console was the hardest to remove.
You have to remove all of the lower trim as well but that's more time consuming than difficult.
I like the Stinger mat. Only issue I can find is that it will absorb moisture if compressed and released with water pooled up. This would be a very odd situation and the OEM carpet has a thick backing which pretty much eliminates possibility of water penetrating but it is possible if the windshield was leaking that you'd have to remove to dry. I'll take that chance. I've yet to have a car that leaked like that or pooled up water. I actually flipped them upside down so the MLV layer was touching the metal floor pans to isolate and reduce any moisture issue's.

No smell. I suppose if you shoved it in your face, then maybe but I noticed no smell, then again I was dealing with new plastic and Leather smell at that time. My car had less than 200miles on it..
LLP is nice stuff. I just went semi budget is all. Do what you can afford, but biggest improvement to be had is the trunk. The floor for front passengers is heavily deadened from factory.
I wish I had all the pics from entire job

Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan114 View Post
I think this is awesome and filled with guidance. I may end up following this thread and doing the same thing.

Thank you for the post.
Cool. Glad there is useful info for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanM9 View Post
If you think the 2015+ are loud try driving any of the older models
Car & Driver said the 2015 was redesigned for comfort and I almost gasped.
I envisioned that I would tear it apart and sound proof it within a week of buying it when I signed the papers so it's all good.
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:24 PM   #14
Zombie Panda
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Where did you buy all of the materials you mentioned?
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:22 PM   #15
Subisnob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie Panda View Post
Where did you buy all of the materials you mentioned?
Amazon. It was the start of my Prime membership.

1/8" Dynaliner
1/4" Dynaliner
1/6" Noico Liner
Stinger RKCP12 Roadkill
Dynamat Tape (helps with door installs)

As for the Butyl Damping material.... I had that already. It's an 80mil product with an extremely thick aluminum layer which adds a lot of mass.
I'd reccomend either Dynamat Extreme Or Noico 80mil HERE
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:33 AM   #16
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Great work!
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Old 01-25-2016, 12:24 AM   #17
prohispano
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do you have in cabin road noise video?
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Old 01-25-2016, 01:02 AM   #18
Midnite8
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Wish you had pics of the doors. I really want to do all the doors.. do I do 100% coverage?
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:25 PM   #19
Subisnob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prohispano View Post
do you have in cabin road noise video?
No but I could certainly do one. I travel 20miles on highway and 5miles varying speeds each way to/from work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnite8 View Post
Wish you had pics of the doors. I really want to do all the doors.. do I do 100% coverage?
Not 100% but close... The inner metal of the doors is so freakin thin, I would highly reccomend building up their mass with butyl.
I added a solid layer to the outer skin. I covered the support beams in full as well. I tapped on every square inch of the inner door panels. Everywhere it made a tinny sound I added 80mil butyl to the back side so not to build the front too thick. I used small pieces and took my time adding them and pressing them into place. I also covered all open areas with 80mil as well. I left adhesive wrap on all areas no touching metal so the cables and wires wouldn't get stuck to back side.
I used two strips of 1/8" CCF Dynaliner to cover the doors and isolate the door panels from the doors. I taped seams up with Aluminum tape.

The door panels got 80mil butyl everywhere on the backside I could add, especially around the speaker hole...lol. Remember...MASS is key to reduce vibrations. Vibrations create/transmit sound waves. I did not use CCF on door panels.

Last edited by Subisnob; 01-25-2016 at 05:32 PM. Reason: correction.
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Old 01-27-2016, 05:31 PM   #20
psyclobe
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:29 PM   #21
aottaviano1
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I would like to do something like this. Would you be able to comment on the difficulty of removing and reinstalling the carpet / panels? Also, did you have a lot of trouble getting things back together after adding the additional mass / layers? Thanks!
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Old 06-11-2016, 11:24 PM   #22
hekler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aottaviano1 View Post
I would like to do something like this. Would you be able to comment on the difficulty of removing and reinstalling the carpet / panels? Also, did you have a lot of trouble getting things back together after adding the additional mass / layers? Thanks!
+1 Great thread. How hard is the carpet removal?
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:21 AM   #23
bobditts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclobe View Post

you mean that time when you posted a link to a thread where 99% of the pictures dont work anymore?
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:54 AM   #24
Gfoke
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wow.

at no point in my life do I have that much freetime to go that crazy with sound deadening.

I bet it's nice though. good job.
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Old 09-28-2016, 03:46 PM   #25
Fuzzy Dice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclobe View Post
Dynamat, what you used, is for reducing panel resonance. It's a nice product and does a good job at what it's designed to do, but it is not designed to absorb and/or block sound. Not all panels noticeably resonate, generally just the larger flatter areas do, so the Average Joe doesn't really need to address panel areas with creases or bends. That's why you only need 20%-30% coverage with it and there are vastly diminishing returns past that point.

For the best noise level/db reduction CCF/MLV should be used. That's what the Stinger carpet pad is in this thread. CCF to decouple, MLV to absorb/block sound. Use all three for the best results but again, no need to go crazy with the deadener.
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