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#1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 70418
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Columbus, NC
Vehicle:1968 Ford Bronco 2000 2.5RS Sedan |
![]() Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB
NUMBER: 03-52-03R DATE: 07/15/03 APPLICABILITY: 1995-2002MY Legacy; 1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and 1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles. All models have Manual Transmission. SUBJECT: Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised) INTRODUCTION In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system under certain weather conditions. PROCEDURE To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that match your vehicle using the following procedure: For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches 1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold. 2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the clutch pipe and bracket. 3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft. lbs. 4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission. 5) Add brake fluid. 6) Bleed the air from the system. 7) Install the intake chamber. 8) Check the following items: a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed. b) Check whether the clutch performs normally. For Turbo models 1) Remove the intercooler. 2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be removed. 3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs. 4) Add brake fluid. 5) Bleed the air from the system. 6) Install the intercooler. 7) Check the following items: a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed. ![]() b) Check whether the clutch performs normally. This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown. ![]()
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#2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10471
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Dallas, TX
Vehicle:2000 BMW Z3 sold Outback & ForesterXT |
![]() that 27 ft lbs is not exactly right... I tried that and wound up busting my banjo bolt. Had to wait almost a week for a new one. It too didn't feel like it would take the whole 27 ft lbs, so i did about 22 lbs instead. No leaks, so I think it's ok...
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#3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 70418
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Columbus, NC
Vehicle:1968 Ford Bronco 2000 2.5RS Sedan |
![]() i'll agree with that, i don't always use a tq wrench... most often just go by feel.
Last edited by ooberdoob; 08-23-2006 at 08:22 PM. |
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#4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 65823
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Beaverton, OR
Vehicle:2018 Impreza Sport Pearl White |
![]() so can i print this and take it to my dealer and say "fix it!"?
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#5 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10471
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Dallas, TX
Vehicle:2000 BMW Z3 sold Outback & ForesterXT |
![]() Quote:
My car had 70k miles on it at the time the clutch slave went out, so I just paid for it myself. You can go the cheaper route and avoid replacing the clutch hose. It should be ok. Just get the crush washers and the operating (slave) cylinder (and maybe an extra banjo bolt to be safe)... It is such a quick fix. Took me 20 minutes (plus a week waiting for a new banjo bolt). Just be sure to have a fresh bottle of brake fluid on hand to refill and bleed the clutch. |
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#6 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 65823
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Beaverton, OR
Vehicle:2018 Impreza Sport Pearl White |
![]() i just noticed this starting to happen during the last streak of really hot weather.. looks like i need to fix it.
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#7 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 70418
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Columbus, NC
Vehicle:1968 Ford Bronco 2000 2.5RS Sedan |
![]() the slave is like $50 at advance.
or $26 through my work ![]() no i won't get you one and ship it. |
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#8 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 1964
Join Date: Jul 2000
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: 84XXX
Vehicle:2012 Fit Sport 5MT Orange Burst |
![]() Added to FAQ, thanks.
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#9 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10471
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Dallas, TX
Vehicle:2000 BMW Z3 sold Outback & ForesterXT |
![]() Quote:
By the way, for all the super-frugal people here, you MAY be able to slow down the problem by removing the slave and cleaning under the boot where the piston is. I noticed a bunch of gunk in mine that obviously caused the problem to get worse and worse. Just a thought. Personally, I'd rather just spend the $50 for a new part and call it a day. |
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#10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 70418
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Columbus, NC
Vehicle:1968 Ford Bronco 2000 2.5RS Sedan |
![]() thanks for the FAQ move!!
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#11 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 5030
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Martinsburg, WV, USA
Vehicle:1999 Legacy 2.5GT 19 Audi RS3, 13 Armada |
![]() +1 for this repair.
This one really messed with me for a while. Unfortunitely my clutch/flywheel took a pretty good beating because of that stupid stuck slave cylinder. After replacing it the feel and engage/dissengage was better then ever before. |
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#12 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 70418
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Columbus, NC
Vehicle:1968 Ford Bronco 2000 2.5RS Sedan |
![]() i get my new slave monday. oontz
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#13 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 284180
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: New Orleans
Vehicle:1986 BRAT |
![]() Thanks for this! Might save my butt
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#14 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 376344
Join Date: Dec 2013
Vehicle:2000 Forester manual |
![]() Hello!
Noob here. I just purchased a used 2000 forester and one of the issues with it is not only a sticking clutch medal but also it appears that in order to engage the clutch I have to push it really far down (past the point where it gets stuck). My question is; are these two issues related? Or is there more that needs to be done to fix a deep pedal press? Also and I don't know if this is in a sticky or not (I'll check), but are there preferred places to buy subaru parts? |
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#15 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 328631
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:2008 FXT WRB |
![]() Quote:
It's very likely that if you buy the updated slave cylinder and hose all of your problems will go away. There are lots of places to buy the parts, subarugenuineparts.com subaruonlineparts.com, subarupartsforyou.com, eBay, etc. just search for the best deal. |
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#16 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 376576
Join Date: Dec 2013
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![]() I get my slave monday for my 2007 legacy.. Is it the same process?
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#17 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 376344
Join Date: Dec 2013
Vehicle:2000 Forester manual |
![]() I bought a new clutch slave, hose, and washers, the problem has gone away about 98% of the time, is there something I need to clean or address with the pedal assembly itself?
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#18 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 376344
Join Date: Dec 2013
Vehicle:2000 Forester manual |
![]() Quote:
I ended up replacing the master cylinder as well and that fixed the problem completely. |
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