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Old 07-24-2017, 01:20 PM   #1
dichoi
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Default Dichoi's 2017 CWP Sti Journal

Started a journal on IWSTI, but figured I'd also post here.

Hi guys, this is my second go around with the 2015+ Sti. I had a 2016 about a year ago, and while it was a great car in some ways, there were also a few things that really annoyed me. (No automatic headlights, no automatic windows, and no trunk release). I ended up trading the car in for a 2012 e92 M3. The M3 was always my "realistic" dream car, and one of them popped up locally for a great price. An added bonus was that it was an individual color (moonstone), with individual interior and trim as well. I enjoyed that car for a while, but the cost of maintenance and the potential for issues, both mechanical and electrical, started to bother me. At this point, I had been fortunate to own most of the cars that I'd been interested in as a kid, and I decided that since the 2017 Sti's now had automatic headlights and front windows, I'd give it another shot. So here we are now.

Parts list (Ongoing)
  • RCE Clubsport Catback
  • Michelin Pilot Super Sport 265/35/18
  • Volk TE37RT Mag Blue 18x10 +39
  • AST 5100 coilovers w/7k/7k springs
  • Cusco Rear LCA's
  • APR Carbon front lip
  • APR Carbon side skirts
  • APR Carbon rear spats
  • Titanium WC Lathe Werks shift knob
  • Formula One Classic 35% tint on windows
  • Formula One Air Blue 80 tint on windshield
  • JDM grille

Don't have the dates for all my mods, but I do know when I bought it.

3/4/17
2017 Base STI, with factory short shifter, 4 miles on the ODO.


First mod I did was to swap out the exhaust. Felt like the stock exhaust was too quiet. Got a great deal for a very lightly used RCE clubsport catback.


On my last Sti, I had run Fortune Auto coilovers with 9k/9k Swift springs, and they were way too harsh for daily driving. I wanted to make sure I went with a well-regarded, high quality coilover this time around. I had great experiences ordering with Geoff at Cygnus Performance before, and this time around was no different. He got me a sweet deal on a set of AST 5100's with 7k/7k springs.


I also bought a set of Michelin PSS in 265/35/18, and ordered a set of Volk TE37RT's in 18x10 +39 as well. I've run Volks on every car I've owned, and will never buy any other brand of wheel again. Yes, I am a fanboy. My buddy was able to get these to me in 1 month from Japan, as opposed to the usual 3-4 month lead time, so a HUGE thank you to him.



Had Cobb Socal install everything, and had a local shop do the alignment. Will be making an appointment at West End for a corner balance and proper alignment soon.


Ordered the JDM grille, APR carbon front air dam, side skirts, and rear spats. Somehow the air dam came in, but side skirts/rear spats were backordered, so waiting on those to come in. Also picked up a titanium WC Lathe Werks shift knob.



So this is the car as it sits today. I feel like once the side skirts and rear spats come in, I'll be pretty happy with the overall exterior of the car, so then I can start focusing on the power mods. The updates will be pretty slow, since I will be saving up to do everything at once (forged pistons/rods/head studs/bigger turbo/everything else for flexfuel). I feel like I want to ride around on stock power for a bit, that way once I do everything else down the road, it'll feel like a more significant difference).
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Old 07-24-2017, 01:26 PM   #2
nathan.d.kim
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Looks nice! I'd recommend a ceramic coating (such as Opticoat Pro) to keep it looking great and make it easier to wash. I got my 07 coated after 9 years of ownership and the detailers made a tired looking car almost like new. That was about 18 months ago and still looks pretty darn good for a 10 year old car.
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Old 07-24-2017, 01:43 PM   #3
kaeknows
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now i just need to drive down to SD so we can shoot our cars
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Old 07-24-2017, 01:49 PM   #4
dichoi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan.d.kim View Post
Looks nice! I'd recommend a ceramic coating (such as Opticoat Pro) to keep it looking great and make it easier to wash. I got my 07 coated after 9 years of ownership and the detailers made a tired looking car almost like new. That was about 18 months ago and still looks pretty darn good for a 10 year old car.
thanks man. the car is currently sealed with jetseal and has 2 coats of collinite 845 on it. Ceramics (opticoat, cquartz, etc) are starting to appeal to me more, since the car is currently parked outside and is my daily. thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 07-24-2017, 01:50 PM   #5
dichoi
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Originally Posted by kaeknows View Post
now i just need to drive down to SD so we can shoot our cars
My side skirts and spats are supposed to be here on Thursday/Friday (it's Subispeed so who knows if that's true), but I'll install them on Saturday and I think my buddy and I are trying to shoot maybe Saturday evening. I'll text you.
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Old 07-24-2017, 02:08 PM   #6
ScoobyFreak86
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Looking good Devin. Love the approach you took on this one. Clean and simple. Looking forward to seeing the progression.
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:56 PM   #7
milab21
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2007 WRB STI-sold

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Looks great! Curious to hear your review of the 5100's
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:29 PM   #8
dichoi
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Originally Posted by milab21 View Post
Looks great! Curious to hear your review of the 5100's
Thanks! I meant to follow up on your build thread on IWSTI with my initial impressions.

I like them so far. I have around 3 week's worth of daily driving on them, and for that purpose, I feel like they are great. The dampening is great, and I don't feel like I'm bouncing all over the place like I did with the stock suspension. It's much smoother than stock on nice roads, and it absorbs bumps from crappy pothole'd roads nicely as well. I haven't been able to do a single canyon run with them yet, but based on some on ramps I've taken pretty aggressively, I suspect they will perform pretty well on the backroads.

For comparison, I've driven on kwv3's in my 370z, fortune auto 500's with 9k/9k springs on my last sti, and ohlins road and track on my e92 m3. I think the 5100's are right up there with the ohlins and kwv3's. I did not like the fortune autos at all. I think that's probably due to the stiff spring rates however.

I'm going to put this out there now, but this car will not see any track time. I've done a few track events and a few autocross events, and I've decided that it's just not for me. I prefer to go out on weekend canyon runs with my friends and that's really where I get my spirited driving fix in. So unfortunately I can't really comment on how these would perform at the track. I do know of a few people running these on their track setups and they seem to really enjoy them, so that's also a positive sign.
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:47 PM   #9
M3lover1
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Looks good!!! Did your tires rub? Have to do any fender rolling? My MPSS 265s rubbed against the rear bumper, the area where it joins the fender.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:23 PM   #10
dichoi
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Originally Posted by M3lover1 View Post
Looks good!!! Did your tires rub? Have to do any fender rolling? My MPSS 265s rubbed against the rear bumper, the area where it joins the fender.
yeah, my fenders are actually shaved in the back. They still rub on dips though. this is with about -2.3 camber in the rear. I'm going to stiffen the rear suspension a little bit but if that doesn't solve the problem, then I'll have to have the fenders pulled. I'm going to most likely pull the fronts also.
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:12 PM   #11
milab21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dichoi View Post
Thanks! I meant to follow up on your build thread on IWSTI with my initial impressions.

I like them so far. I have around 3 week's worth of daily driving on them, and for that purpose, I feel like they are great. The dampening is great, and I don't feel like I'm bouncing all over the place like I did with the stock suspension. It's much smoother than stock on nice roads, and it absorbs bumps from crappy pothole'd roads nicely as well. I haven't been able to do a single canyon run with them yet, but based on some on ramps I've taken pretty aggressively, I suspect they will perform pretty well on the backroads.

For comparison, I've driven on kwv3's in my 370z, fortune auto 500's with 9k/9k springs on my last sti, and ohlins road and track on my e92 m3. I think the 5100's are right up there with the ohlins and kwv3's. I did not like the fortune autos at all. I think that's probably due to the stiff spring rates however.

I'm going to put this out there now, but this car will not see any track time. I've done a few track events and a few autocross events, and I've decided that it's just not for me. I prefer to go out on weekend canyon runs with my friends and that's really where I get my spirited driving fix in. So unfortunately I can't really comment on how these would perform at the track. I do know of a few people running these on their track setups and they seem to really enjoy them, so that's also a positive sign.

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! I have still not made a decision for which set to go with, I think I have over thought it out lol. I will be following your build, look forward to more updates!
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:24 PM   #12
dichoi
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A small update: Finally got my APR cf lip kit on. Required me taking off the front bumper and side skirts to drill holes. Side skirts were 11 holes on each side, which is more than I expected, but at least I know they will be secure.



As you can see from the photos, the car is pretty dirty. Especially the wheels. The stock brake pads have been annoying me quite a bit with the amount of dust that they produce. I want to use them up, but I'm not sure how much longer I can live with my wheels looking gray...



Yesterday I was able to cruise down to my local touchless wash and finally get the car cleaned up a little bit. I then headed over to a parking garage to get some cell phone shots, and I'm glad I did. The sky was really nice. On the 20 mile or so drive from the wash to the parking garage, my wheels got covered in brake dust again so I had to hit the wheels with some quick detailer when I got there. Turned an entire microfiber black.



This is a pretty crappy photo, but I sold my camera setup so I guess I'll make do for now until I can get something else. Mag blue is a pretty tough color to photograph. I had a friend with me who probably has much better shots. Will bug him for those soon.

Next up is a different exhaust setup at the end of this month or early next month.
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Old 08-09-2017, 03:53 AM   #13
o2_designs
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Looks great!! Any chance of rear shots if the rear spats? I've been curious what they look like from behind
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Old 08-09-2017, 09:27 PM   #14
dichoi
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Originally Posted by o2_designs View Post
Looks great!! Any chance of rear shots if the rear spats? I've been curious what they look like from behind
Thanks man. I'll see what I can do about that. My friend who was with me is bound to have some rear 3/4 shots
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Old 08-09-2017, 11:46 PM   #15
o2_designs
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Sweet! If you happen to get any from straight behind. Thanks
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Old 08-14-2017, 12:49 AM   #16
dichoi
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Spent Saturday detailing the car.

When I bought the car, I bought it with all the plastics still on it, and since then, it has only ever seen touchless washes. I had clayed the car and applied some Chemical Guys Jetseal and 2 coats of Collinite 845, but the paint was actually in very good shape. White also masks a lot of swirls and imperfections, but after going over the car under both natural light and with a torch, I decided that a polish was unnecessary at this time, which cut out a ton of time.

I didn't take photos of every step, but this is what I went with.

1. Rinse
2. Carpro Iron-X, let sit for a few min. Even though I had clayed the car a week after I bought it, there were still iron deposits scattered throughout the paint. IronX does smell terrible, but it works really well. I would highly recommend.

3. Foam using a combination of Chemical Guys Clean Slate and Mr.Pink. 1:2 ratio of clean slate to mr. pink. This is to strip any remaining wax from the car. Collinite generally only lasts a couple of months at most, so there wasn't much left to strip.

4. Rinse off all of the soap. Use Nanoskin Autoscrub, a clay block, and a clay bar to pull any remaining embedded contaminants from the paint. Went through 500ml of clay lube during this process, but luckily it's cheap. IronX had already pulled most of the large particles, but clay was definitely needed. Especially around the rear bumper, where the exhaust fumes tend to stick to the car.
5. Foam again with Mr.Pink, use a quality wash mitt (mine was from The Rag Company) to go over the car utilizing the 2 bucket method with grit guards.
6. Pull car into garage, dry using leaf blower and a clean waffle weave towel. I normally wouldn't use a leaf blower, but my buddy had just bought one so decided to try it out. It definitely works and I'd consider getting one myself.
7. Let the car cool down (it was 85 degrees out), and then use some Carpro Eraser to get any leftover wax off the car. There were a few areas where I hadn't buffed it out completely when applying, so it was dried streaks of wax. They were probably a few mm long at most, but I decided to apply Eraser to the whole car just to make sure the surface was completely clean.
8. Use Carpro Reload and an applicator block to spread it all over the car. Let it bond to the paint for 10-15 min, then buff off with clean microfibers.

Carpro Reload should be left to cure for a minimum of 24 hours, and since it was such a hot day, I decided to speed up the process by parking the car outside.




All in all, pretty happy with the results. I'll have to see how hydrophobic the reload is, and also how long it lasts, but I'm going to look into topping it with some sort of wax or gloss enhancer. Possibly ECH2O. Whole process took about 5 hours. Would've taken at least 3-4hrs more if I had to polish, but got lucky without having to do that this time.
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:31 AM   #17
o2_designs
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Any reason you skipped applying CQuartz and only used Reload? Reload should be good and hydrophobic by itself tho. I'd def suggest cquartz U.K. In the future, it adds a lot of gloss and depth to the paint. Along with added protection. I'd also skip using any wax or top coat, you'll just be covering the Reload and losing its qualities.

Elec leaf blower is definitely a great item to have! Esp since you seem to be very big into detailing.

Car looks great tho!! I wish I'd gotten white
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Old 08-14-2017, 10:25 AM   #18
ScoobyFreak86
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Leaf blower is the way I've been drying my cars for years. It's a great way to remove most of the water and get in all the cracks. I usually sheet with the hose first, leaf blow, then go around with a waffle towel to get any remaining drips. It has worked for me for years keeping the cars swirl free.

Im surprised you used reload and not hydro. Hydro tends to be more of a coating (temporary) than reload. Reload is good to spray on hydro (or even cquartz or another coating) to bring back the coatings properties. Either way, reload is good stuff. You'll just be finding you'll need to reapply it often to keep it coated.
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Old 08-14-2017, 01:15 PM   #19
dichoi
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.
o2_designs, I didn't use Cquartz or any other ceramic coating because I like to experiment with different products. I'm actually just starting to get into the whole detailing world, and I wanted to try out different products before settling on what my go to combo would be. Although, it is getting expensive and spending $100 on Cquartz is looking like a more and more attractive option.

Chris, the reload was my friend's and not mine. He bought it but hasn't had a chance to use on his car yet, so we used my car as a test vehicle to look at the hydrophobic properties and also test durability. I will look into getting hydro2 however. I wonder if I can just apply on top...I'd rather not have to strip the Reload first.
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Old 08-14-2017, 02:09 PM   #20
o2_designs
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I dry the same as ScoobyFreak mentioned. I'm coated w/ cQuartz UK and Reload as the top coat. Its wayy safer and quicker to dry. I reapply reload once a month, and usually get a full year out of the cQuartz and I live in MN

Makes sense tho why you used only Reload. I've heard of some people using only Reload and its worked pretty good. Was just curious why you skipped the cQuartz. Its def worth doing eventually if you like Reload tho. I'll never wax again. LOL

Rinseless wash is something else to look into for weekly washes. Ive found its quicker and easier as long as the car isnt filthy
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:59 PM   #21
ScoobyFreak86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dichoi View Post
Thanks for the suggestions guys.


Chris, the reload was my friend's and not mine. He bought it but hasn't had a chance to use on his car yet, so we used my car as a test vehicle to look at the hydrophobic properties and also test durability. I will look into getting hydro2 however. I wonder if I can just apply on top...I'd rather not have to strip the Reload first.


Oh totally! I'm all for experimenting. It's what make detailing fun. It's amazing how many good products are out there these days. Even in the past 3 years, there has been some major advances in the detailing world. I used to hardly hear about coatings and now cquartz Uk is an auto fill word on my phone haha.

You'll be happy with most of the stuff out there. I'm still sticking with my sealant and wax combo as I somewhat prefer the therapeutic process of applying both. However, I can 100% see the appeal to a coating as my free time has diminished drastically with kids.

I'm sure someday I'll cave and do a coating. However, I would want to do a serious paint correction to make sure the paint is 99% perfect.

White is so easy to keep looking fresh. I loved my white wrx in that regard. It was so simple to keep looking good. I miss it sometimes and wish I gotten white once in a while. But I must say when lapis or any color pearl or metallic is clean, it's super rewarding. I'm sure you know, but the pop of lapis when properly cared for is awesome.
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Old 08-17-2017, 08:32 PM   #22
dichoi
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So the whole new exhaust thing didn't work out, as the exhaust I was looking to buy wasn't the exact version I was looking for. I decided I'll tackle that later on down the road. For now, the car will stay as it is exterior-wise. Going to slowly start stockpiling power mods. First step will be bolt ons, and then a year or so after that I'll go with forged internals and a bigger turbo. Nothing bigger than a Dom 1.5 however, as the ultimate goal is to hit maybe 430-450whp on e85.

Phase 1 will probably take 6 months to complete. Have to save for a house also.
List of bolt ons for phase one is as follows:
  • AEM CAI
  • Cobb catted downpipe
  • Tomei EL header/up pipe
  • IAG AOS (street)
  • AEM 320lph fuel pump
  • ID1050 injectors
  • Killer B oil pickup
  • Process West TMIC
  • Cobb Flex Fuel kit
  • Cobb Accessport
  • *some sort of fuel pressure regulator and EBCS (haven't decided on which ones. I'd appreciate suggestions!)*

I'm hoping that this setup on e85 will get me to somewhere around 350hp/400tq. I think I'd be very happy with that power level for a while. Still want to work on becoming a better driver. I was initially planning on doing everything at once including forged internals and bigger turbo, but I decided that this would ease the burden on my wallet haha.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:26 AM   #23
dichoi
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Went out for a photoshoot at my old university with my buddy and his M4. Both cars were absolutely filthy, but was still a fun little shoot.





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Old 08-20-2017, 12:03 PM   #24
subie.tony
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Love your car man.
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Old 10-09-2017, 02:55 PM   #25
dichoi
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Well, it's official. Will be parting out the car. Let me know if you want anything! So far, the only thing spoken for is the shift knob.
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