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Old 04-28-2007, 09:11 PM   #1
spike589
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Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: anchorage,alaska
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2008 speed3
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Unhappy sti brake bleed HELP!!!!!

HEy guys !

[i] got a huge problem, I opened my bleeder ports to change my brake pads cause i couldnt get the pistons to go allthe way back to clear the new pads. i didnt think much but by the time i got done I did not relized I drained my reservoir completely empty. So henze I rolled out my driveway and had to use my e-brake to stop (not very fun) pump my brakes still not knowing i emptied my reservoir . Ive allready serviced it bleed the brakes for gthree days and no success pedals still hits the floor.

Ive been told once you introduce air into the abs block their is no easy way to get it out. Ive tried everything from gravity bleeding, to the furthest caliper first to the closest and nothing still. Ive also tried driving on a empty roaad and getting abs to click on. yes i do get air out og the system but ive also gone threw about two quarts of fluid and no results. I dont want to drive my car till this gets fixed.My brakes do apply after i put the pedal threw the floor board but thas it i need help thanks if you can call me a i would appreciate it thanks 907 350 5783 omar
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:07 PM   #2
MikeyMike
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its a 2 man job. one man on the wrench/ bleeder valve and one man on the pedal. Quite simple. Just buy a quart or more of brake fluid.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:16 PM   #3
00Maddog
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you've got 8 bleeders to do. start with the rear outside ones, then inside, then front outside, then inside. the abs will not cause issues.

NOTE: brake fluid will make your gold calipers peel...
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:01 AM   #4
Racer Dubya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Maddog View Post
you've got 8 bleeders to do. start with the rear outside ones, then inside, then front outside, then inside. the abs will not cause issues.

NOTE: brake fluid will make your gold calipers peel...
Get a piece of vacuum line or fuel line and a glass bottle or jar. Put the tube overe the nipple (hee hee) of the bleeder valve and the other end in the jar. When you open the bleeder valve the fluid will go into the jar (not on your calipers) this will also make it easier to see when it is done pumping air.
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Old 04-29-2007, 01:00 AM   #5
AK_2.5RS
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Actually there is a good chance you need to gravity bleed the Master Cylinder. That should be your first step. After you do that then you need to proceed with getting the air out of the lines.
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Old 04-29-2007, 04:43 AM   #6
spike589
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how do you gravity bleed the master cylinder.and ive been using brake cleaner on the calipers to keep the paint good
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Old 04-29-2007, 06:50 AM   #7
reconracer
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i did the same when i upgraded my calipers and had the same problem as you, heres what me and my buddy did, first we bled the master cylinder, there are two lines(front and rear brakes) that run from the master cylinder to the hydraulic pump , they are a pain to get to so gotta be patient and wear some eye protection. After the master cylinder was done we did the brakes in this order FR, BL, FL then BR same as the attachment.
http://www.velozt.com/elements/tech/...r-Bleeding.pdf
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Old 04-30-2007, 02:47 AM   #8
spike589
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hey ill have to try that thanks alot ill see were it gets me thanks
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Old 04-30-2007, 02:51 AM   #9
spike589
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hey ralph swan thank you very much for coming to my house and helping me. We unfortunatly didnt get it. we bleed everything four times around and nothing, i mean bleed till the brakes were completly stiff and were working. but as soon as i dropped back on wheels the problem came back. No brake pressure at all and the abs kicked in that was the only thing that stopped me . I proceded to make the abs kick in cause i was also told that thewir might be air in the abs box but thats up in the air thanks again ralph !
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Old 04-30-2007, 04:57 PM   #10
reconracer
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I spent about a good solid hour just on the master cylinder and went around 3 times, maybe for some odd reason one of your brakes lines may have come loose.
My suggestion check lines(probly already done) and bleed, bleed, bleed the master cylinder and hit those calipers one more time, make sure to press that pedal really slow

3. ABS Sequence Control
A: OPERATION
1) Under the ABS sequence control, after the hydraulic
unit solenoid valve is driven, the operation
of the hydraulic unit can be checked by means of
the brake tester or pressure gauge.
2) ABS sequence control can be started by diagnosis
connector or select monitor.
1. ABS SEQUENCE CONTROL WITH DIAGNOSIS
CONNECTOR
1) Connect the diagnosis terminals to terminals No.
3 and No. 6 of the diagnosis connector.
(1) Diagnosis connector
(2) Diagnosis terminals
(3) 3 terminal
(4) 6 terminal
2) Set the speed of all wheels at 4 km/h (2 MPH) or
less.
3) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4) Within 0.5 seconds after the ABS warning light
goes out, depress the brake pedal and hold it immediately
after the ignition switch is turned to ON.
CAUTION:
Do not depress the clutch pedal.
NOTE:
***8226; When the ignition switch is set to on, the brake
pedal must not be depressed.
***8226; Engine must not operate.
5) After completion of ABS sequence control, turn
the ignition switch OFF.
6) Recheck the brake stroke.
7) If the distance is more than specified, there is a
8
possibility air is in the inside of the hydraulic unit.
Repeat above Brake Line Bleeding steps until pedal stroke
meets the specification.
8) Add brake fluid to the required level (MAX. level)
of reservoir tank.
9) As a final step, test run the vehicle at low speed
and apply brakes relatively hard 2 to 3 times to ensure
that brakes provide normal braking action on
all four wheels without dragging and uneven braking.

Last edited by reconracer; 04-30-2007 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:40 PM   #11
AK_2.5RS
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If one of the lines had come loose there should be brake fluid under the car from all the bleeding he's done.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:07 PM   #12
spike589
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no lines had broke loose because before changing my old brakes everything properly (besides having no pads ) I havent been able to more since yesterday afternoon with ralph. It kind of hard to get a friend to come over to help me right now they all work so im stuck for teh moment but as soon as I can ill let you know what comes of it thanks alot for the support
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Old 05-01-2007, 06:52 PM   #13
reconracer
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i know how much brakes suck to do i did the bbk conversion on my wrx before i left AK, but anyway good luck and hopefully it will work out maybe its just a couple stubborn air bubbles
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Old 05-01-2007, 09:53 PM   #14
spike589
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yeah i hope so i just talked to subaru and what they charge is a little steep for my pocket right now even thought its worth every penny so until it gets fixed its not leaving my garage
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:11 PM   #15
spike589
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HEY YALL I FIXED MY PROBLEM I AQUIRED A POWER BRAKE BLEEDER AND BLEAD MY MASTER ,ABS BLOCK AND CALIPERS ALL THE WAY AROUND. i PROBABLY NEED TO DO IT AGAIN SINCE I ENGAGED THE ABS GOOFING AROUND AND THE BRAKES GOT A LITTLE SPUNGY. BUT I LIKE TO SAY THANKS TO RALPH SWAN ,OOMADDOG ,ZEEKTRIBE2 AND UNDERGROUND PERFORMANCE THANKS
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Old 05-04-2007, 07:26 PM   #16
00Maddog
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good deal!

funny how easy things can be with the right tools! the brembo brake system has foiled more then just you don't feel bad.
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Old 05-05-2007, 09:11 AM   #17
reconracer
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glad to hear you fixed it
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Old 05-05-2007, 04:06 PM   #18
spike589
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thanks again guys without this forum id be lost
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