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Old 02-08-2017, 07:55 PM   #1
freezer16801
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Default P0500 CEL after CV axle change

I tried searching for this issue for some time using this forum and the net. I had to replace the left side ball joint. While replacing that joint, I noticed that my CV outer axle boot was starting to leak. So, I opted to replace that as well while everything was apart. Everything went together OK, but I have had a P0500 CEL (Vehicle speed sensor malfunction) ever since the axle and ball joint swap.

I bought the axle from NAPA as a refurbished part. The removable flange on the inside and outside were not on the replacement axle, so I swapped them over to the refurbished part. I assumed that I put the outer flange backwards because it appeared to damage the ABS wheel speed sensor upon inspection.

I purchased a new sensor, flipped the outer flange, I installed the new wheel speed sensor, reset the codes, but I still have the CEL, blinking cruise, ABS light on, etc. I even tried pulling the negative terminal to drain the battery and ECU, but that did not make a difference. I swapped the only ABS fuse that I could find for a new one.

I assume that the outer flange that I swapped over was a tone ring that the wheel speed sensor picks up on.

Please help me out to figure out what is going on here. I've had the thing apart three times now and I am about to kick the dog out of frustration. I already gave the other axle up as the core exchange. That is probably on a ship to China right now.
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Old 02-08-2017, 11:12 PM   #2
Charlie-III
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See if they have an axle for a ABS equipped vehicle, should come with the tone ring on it.
Tone rings are easy to break/crack, that makes them do odd things that trips codes.
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Old 02-09-2017, 10:15 AM   #3
freezer16801
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I was hoping that it doesn't come to that. I doubt I can return it because I've been driving for a week on it. I may just order one from rockauto and argue with NAPA once the other one arrives.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:22 PM   #4
freezer16801
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So, I convinced NAPA to give me a different CV axle. The new axle had the tone ring and inner flange and it was much beafier than the last one I tried. I installed it today and cleared the codes. I went for a drive and the same issues persist. I don't know what else to try at this point. I may just have to suck it up and take it to the dealer. Please help if anyone has any other ideas.
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:05 PM   #5
Charlie-III
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Does your car use wheel sensors for speed or a trans sensor?

Did the other lights go off (cruise, ABS, etc.)?
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:26 AM   #6
freezer16801
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Cruise blinks, CEL, ABS, and traction control off are all illuminated. I don't know if the car uses the sensors for speed. The speedo appears to be working fine. I assume it picks the speed up off of the trans.
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:21 PM   #7
Charlie-III
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How did you clear the codes, with a scanner? If so, try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes or so, then reconnect.
Engine will likely crank a bit more than normal due to loss of fine learning as well as needing to figure out what cycle the engine is in.

Did a search for P0500 on this forum, this...https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...ighlight=p0500 may help.

Also check your wheel speed sensors, make sure they are clean (rust can affect their operation/output), especially on the face of the sensor.
It also appears there are 2 trans VSS's, I have no clue where they are exactly. Likely have 2 wires to each and can be found externally.
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:59 PM   #8
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I scanned the codes with a cobb Acessport. I tried to clear the code by disconnecting the neg. and positive terminals and pushing on the brake to drain the ECU. No luck. I will have a mechanic scan the code to see if he can determine which wheel sensor is the culprit.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:58 PM   #9
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If it's for your '10 FXT I think the sensor trigger is part of the wheel bearing assembly itself. Pull the axle from the hub side and closely inspect the back of the wheel bearing for any damage. If that's the case then the first napa axle mightve been correct afterall.
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:09 PM   #10
freezer16801
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I just got back from having a mechanic use a professional scanner. It was the sensor on the axle side that I've been working on. The last time that I had the axle out, I cleaned the inner side of the bearing (seal) real well. I didn't notice any obvious damage.

The mechanic temporarily got rid of the codes, but the ABS still activates as soon as I hit the brakes.

This is for my 2010 FXT.

Last edited by freezer16801; 02-12-2017 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freezer16801 View Post
I just got back from having a mechanic use a professional scanner. It was the sensor on the axle side that I've been working on. The last time that I had the axle out, I cleaned the inner side of the bearing (seal) real well. I didn't notice any obvious damage.

The mechanic temporarily got rid of the codes, but the ABS still activates as soon as I hit the brakes.

This is for my 2020 FXT.
Not the seal, the face of the sensor. Anything metallic (like rust) affects how the sensor operates.
If the sensor was damaged with the axle you ran before, that could be your issue.

Either in the link I provided, or another thread I read while looking earlier, I saw mentioned there are 2 ABS fuses.
One under the hood, one in the car. Keep in mind it may not be listed as it is part of another circuit, so that circuit may be listed.
I would test/meter ALL fuses, not just look at them.
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freezer16801 View Post
I just got back from having a mechanic use a professional scanner. It was the sensor on the axle side that I've been working on. The last time that I had the axle out, I cleaned the inner side of the bearing (seal) real well. I didn't notice any obvious damage.

The mechanic temporarily got rid of the codes, but the ABS still activates as soon as I hit the brakes.

This is for my 2020 FXT.
When you say you cleaned the bearing/seal it sounds like you're talking about the diff bearing/axle seal on the trans, which is not what I'm talking about. Your car uses sealed wheel bearings with no seals.


Refer to the example pics below; slide the axle back out from the hub side.




You will then be able to inspect the back of the wheel bearing for damage to the sensor trigger, the dark colored circular section on the bearing below.

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Old 02-11-2017, 06:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue wrench View Post
When you say you cleaned the bearing/seal it sounds like you're talking about the diff bearing/axle seal on the trans, which is not what I'm talking about. Your car uses sealed wheel bearings with no seals.


Refer to the example pics below; slide the axle back out from the hub side.




You will then be able to inspect the back of the wheel bearing for damage to the sensor trigger, the dark colored circular section on the bearing below.

Huh? The "trigger" is the tone wheel in the picture at the top of your post. It has the square "ridges" on the OD.
The sensor will be 90* to the tone wheel when assembled.

The "dark circular section" is a bearing seal.

BTW, freezer, how did you get a 2020 vehicle already?
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:48 PM   #14
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I realize the example pic I posted has the trigger on the axle, that's why I went ahead and listed it as an 'example'. I thought my first reply was fairly self-explanatory but I then tried to find pics of what I was trying to explain, so thanks google

Anywho, the tone wheel should be on the wheel bearing (for the OP's forester), that's why you'll find the factory axle, and the first napa axle did not have one.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:27 PM   #15
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OK, I looked up a front axle, front hub and an ABS sensor.
So, your 2nd picture looks like what I saw. I will assume the black circle is the "tone wheel" and the sensor is a blade that sits next to that flat surface. I saw nothing for "ABS" or "NON ABS". Thus they are all ABS.
I didn't see anything listed for an axle for "ABS" or "no ABS", all the axles I saw looked the same, just a slinger plate near the hub bearing.

I looked up a 2010 Forester XT on RockAuto for the parts and pictures.

Maybe the OP can look up the same parts on RA and think/compare to what he has.
Also check all fuses under the hood and in the drivers side panel.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:38 PM   #16
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Some bad information in here. Check a service manual for legit information.
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Old 02-11-2017, 11:50 PM   #17
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukethedork View Post
Some bad information in here. Check a service manual for legit information.
Care to share? I have no problems with learning new things, I was also basing some off the info provided by the OP that saw the parts come out.
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post

BTW, freezer, how did you get a 2020 vehicle already?
oops, corrected that!
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue wrench View Post
When you say you cleaned the bearing/seal it sounds like you're talking about the diff bearing/axle seal on the trans, which is not what I'm talking about. Your car uses sealed wheel bearings with no seals.


Refer to the example pics below; slide the axle back out from the hub side.




You will then be able to inspect the back of the wheel bearing for damage to the sensor trigger, the dark colored circular section on the bearing below.

I was referring to the wheel hub side that I cleaned out. My hub does not look like the bearing on the rockauto pics. I will take it apart again and re examine. I found this interesting and supportive of the notion that the sensor picks up on the hub, not the axle
..."Features a pre-sealed, pre-greased and pre-set bearing package design with integrated sensing technology for anti-lock braking systems, total traction control and vehicle dynamics systems."

This may be a generic rockauto part explanation that may not be applicable to my car. Nonetheless, I will take it apart to see if that is the culprit.
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Old 02-12-2017, 01:09 PM   #20
Charlie-III
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The sensor has to be clean as well, that should be a plastic coated "blade type" that sits near the ring on the back of the hub bearing.
They can be easy to damage when working with an axle, either by hitting it by accident or dropping the knuckle while doing things. This will damage the wiring between the chassis and the sensor, even though you can't see the damage.
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Old 02-13-2017, 09:44 AM   #21
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The sensor is brand new. I replaced that thinking it was the culprit.
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freezer16801 View Post
The sensor is brand new. I replaced that thinking it was the culprit.
I know it's new, but as I mentioned before, if the knuckle was dropped, it could have yanked the wire causing a break. Or, the sensor got hit by the axle during install/removal causing an issue.
You may be able to do a continuity test to check the sensor to rule it out.
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:38 AM   #23
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i got the same CEL on my 17 wrx, i brought it in for warranty. i'll keep you guys posted
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Old 02-15-2017, 03:51 PM   #24
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Update... I took the car to my local subaru dealer where we purchased my wife's car. They stole $95 from me to scan the car. They were informative enough to tell me that the car has stored codes. They attribute my problems to the aftermarket axle.

I took the axle apart again. The shiny part of the bearing is very clean now. I used a piece of scotch brite pad to eliminate that as an variable. I measured the left side tone ring on the stock axle as a comparison. The tone ring on the aftermarket axle was different, but not by a lot. I re-positioned the tone ring on the aftermarket axle to very close to what the other side was.

I also double checked part numbers of the wheel speed sensor and everything matches up with the new one that I installed.

I used my Access Port to clear the code and I pulled the neg. from the battery and stomped the brake pedal.

I went for a drive and there is no difference. I returned and tried to old sensor with the same results. I still have a christmas tree of blinking lights and the P0500 code stored.

I think I will resort to buying a used axle from ebay to try that out. I can't find an OEM refurbished axle anywhere. The dealer that stole the $95 from me did not have a listing for a refurbed axle either. A new one is $400!
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:04 PM   #25
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I don't believe there is a tone ring on the axle on your car. It appears it is on the back of the hub bearing, that black circle which is why the sensor is a blade.
Usually an external tone ring looks like the picture in this thread, it's about 1/4" thick with square teeth on the outer edge.
The part you're describing sounds more like a slinger that throws crud away from the bearing. It's just a thin metal ring, that's all.
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