Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday March 21, 2019
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-27-2008, 08:20 PM   #1
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default Tearing down a block - A pictorial. Includes head removal.

Engine teardown!

Start with an engine on an engine stand.

The intake manifold has already been removed, so no pics on that removal. Also, I neglected to take a before photo.


Turn motor upside down on the engine stand. Using a 14mm socket remove the 6 exhaust manifold nuts and pull manifold off. This one looks weird because it is a twin turbo exhaust manifold. Using the 14mm socket, remove the 4 bolts holding the motor mounts.




Next to remove is the oilpan. Use a 10mm socket. Then whack repeatedly with a rubber mallet. The dipstick needs to be removed first. On the top of the block is a 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. Remove bolt and yank dipstick tube out of oil pan.


Next remove the eight 10mm bolts that hold the oil pick up tube and splash guard. Don’t drop them into the engine!




To remove the oil cooler, you need a deep socket 24mm. Remove oil filter. Haha. The socket fits over the threaded section that the oil filter screws onto. This bolt/tube is about 3-4” long. Undo the two hose clamps on the hose FARTHEST away from the cooler and remove the cooler and two hoses as a unit.





Now rotate the engine back to its correct orientation. The next step is to remove the crank pulley by unbolting the 22mm crank bolt. This requires a good size breaker bar. You need to stop the rotation of the crank and the easiest way is to jam a wrench into the teeth of the flywheel



Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the removal of the crank pulley. But remove it anyway. After the crank pulley has been removed (this most likely requires quite a bit of wiggling and pulling), you need to remove the timing belt covers. The timing belt covers are held in place by 10 mm bolts. Again, no pictures.


Next is breaking the cam bolts free. You need to keep the timing belt on and the wrech stuck in the flywheel. On the older models the cam bolts are 17mm. On the new models, the cam bolts have become a cursed allen head bolt that is almost guaranteed to strip. Sorry folks, but if they strip, you will have to either “easy-out” them, or weld on a socket and break them free. When you reinstall them, I recommend getting the older 17mm bolts to replace them.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by reddevil; 01-28-2008 at 03:10 PM.
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 01-27-2008, 08:22 PM   #2
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default

After removing the bolts, you should remove the timing belt tensioner pulley to relieve the timing belt of its tension. It’s a 14mm head bolt.


Now remove the timing belt, wiggle off the cam pulleys (inspect them for cracks, and if you had a really hard time removing the pulleys and MAY have damaged them, junk em!), and unbolt and remove the rest of the timing belt idlers.



Now on both heads you need a 10mm socket to remove the bolts that hold the back of the timing belt covers on. Remove rear covers.





Next to remove is the timing belt tensioner, tensioner mounting bracket and the water pump. The tensioner pictured is held on with two 12mm bolts. The bracket directly behind it is held in place with three 12 mm bolts. The water pump is held in place with six 10 mm bolts. When you remove the water pump, you can easily leave the hoses and metal hoses attached. Simply unbolt the 10mm mounting bolts and the water pump and hoses should come off as a for you to deal with later.


Next is head removal. Remove the various (depends upon the head model) 10mm bolts that hold the cam cover on.


Next you need to remove the cam caps. They are held on with 12mm bolts. They are labeled so you don’t need to worry about mixing them up. Just look at them to understand/remember where they will be returned to.






To remove the cams, tap GENTLY on the front of the cam UPWARDS and they will pop out. Now you need to remove the 6 head bolts. Using a 14mm twelve point socket and a ½” breaker bar, remove these 6 long bolts. PLEASE NOTE I am NOT removing the bucket and shims at this point. The buck and shims are the eight shiny ½ dollar sized parts. Note that some heads are bucket only, some are rocker arm, and some bucket and shim. The shim is a thin piece of metal that sits on top of the bucket. Of any head that has shims, DO NOT mess up the order in which they are placed!!!!!!

Last edited by reddevil; 01-28-2008 at 03:14 PM.
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 08:23 PM   #3
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default

Once the bolts are removed, the head will simply lift off. Repeat for the other head. Set heads aside in a safe clean area. If you are going to be reusing the head without a valve job, then you don’t need to do anything with the buckets and shims. If you are going to have a valve job done, YOU NEED TO pull out the bucket and shim and keep them in the EXACT same order they started as. You screw it up, its your motor…. Reinstalling and calibration of heads is not to be discussed in this thread.



Now rotate the engine back to UP. We will next remove the crossover pipe and oil pump.



There are four 10mm bolts holding the crossover pipe on. BE GENTLE!!!! These four bolts like to snap. The crossover pipe then lifts off.





Last item to remove is the oil pump. Whoops, didn’t do a before photo…. Anyway, the oil pump is held in place by six 10mm bolts. Remove those and gently tap the bottom of the oil pump AWAY from the block to break the seal. There are two dowels that locate the oil pump to the block. Gently wiggle and pull the oil pump and it will come off. Remove the little black gasket near the bottom on the block.





OK, that’s it for now. I will continue when I crack open the block and remove the bearings……..

Last edited by reddevil; 01-28-2008 at 03:15 PM.
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 08:23 PM   #4
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default

Next we remove the flywheel. These eight bolds are 14mm fine thread. Don’t lose em. I prefer to use an impact wrench to remove them, but if you need to use a breaker bar, keep the wrench wedged in to hold the flywheel in place.





Once the flywheel is removed, we have to pull the four pistons from out of the block. On the rear of the block are two cover plates held in place with Philip head screws. These guys WILL strip using a hand screwdriver unless you get lucky. Preferable use an impact driver to loosen them, or get a GOOD tipped Philips head and smack that as your attempt to loosen.




Pry off the covers to reveal the insides.



Here you will see the 14mm hex plug that hides the access point to the wristpin. The other side does not have a plug.



Using a 14mm hexbit, remove the plug.



On the front of the engine you find two hex plugs. Remove both plugs









Now rotate the crank so you can see the cir-clip holding the wristpin in. Either the front two will be visible, or the rear two. Using needle nose pliers, pull these clips out. You can reuse them, its up to you. Obviously if you damage one (I don’t know how the hell you would), you should replace it. But since there is NO stress on them, I reuse them.


Last edited by reddevil; 01-28-2008 at 03:21 PM.
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 08:27 PM   #5
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default

Now comes the fun part where you need to fabricate some sort of wrist pin removal tool. Subaru uses two types of wrist pin. The EJ22 and EJ25 are “easy” to remove and use the lower tool. These pins have a simple hole through them that allows the tool to slip through and hook the edge. The EJ20 wrist pin SUCKS. The hole is tapered and so requires a lot of patience and often some help. The tool to use is on top.




You can see the difference in this photo.



Using the top tool in conjunction with a section of 12guage wire, you fish both through and then pull back on the tool to jamb the nub in the small section of the wrist pin so you can yank out the pin. Plain and simple, this can take awhile if the pins are really stubborn.



Once the wrist pins are removed, you can rotate the crank to remove the pistons. First rotate the crank around and this will push the piston to the front and leave them there. Now push the piston back into the cylinder while twisting it.



Then rotate the crank again and this will cause the rod to hit the back of the piston and push it out.



Keep track of which piston came out of which hole and label them.



---------------------------------------------------------
Video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How to piston pull!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR0Ed6qTIVQ

---------------------------------------------------------

Next step is to separate the two block halves.

Using a 12mm 12point socket, remove the 5 upper bolts.




Last edited by reddevil; 01-28-2008 at 03:25 PM.
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 08:27 PM   #6
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default

Remove the 3 front bolts



Remove the two bolts inside the water jacket.



Spin the block around and remove the 6 bolts on the other side inside the water jacket.



On the back where the flywheel was is a single 12mm bolt. You need small breaker bar to remove this bolt. DO NOT use a wrench, it will round over.



The last bolt to remove is inside and requires a 10mm socket. You need a small breaker bar to remove this bolt. DO NOT use a wrench, it will round over.



OK, that’s all the bolts.

To separate the block, you WILL have to tap it apart. Sometime you will have to REALLY tap it apart, hard enough to deform the aluminum. There are two places that have a small tube that fits into the other side of the block and these get sticky. I tap the block apart in the back, left to right on the tranny housing area.




Then I tap apart in the front.



This is where it will stick together.




Finally, you can lift the block halve off the other.



DONE!

Next I will reinstall bearings. But that will be awhile, I am going to have the block hot tanked to get it nice and clean.

Last edited by reddevil; 01-28-2008 at 03:23 PM.
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 08:48 PM   #7
Texy32
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 124252
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, TX
Vehicle:
0506 STI/Tribeca
OBP/SGM

Default subscribed

awesome
subscribed!
wish ld had this 2 years ago when i did my first rebuild.
Texy32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 08:56 PM   #8
subari87
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 167422
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Vehicle:
1987 3 main

Default

hey. you ever use tougher bolts where they may snap? Even the old ones did it. Grade eight/5 is great, especially holding down anything with fluid movement within it (air/fuel intake, coolant). They still cheapskate on the darndest things... that whole EJ generation for example.
subari87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 09:08 PM   #9
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default

The only bolts I ever snap that were "weakened" are the 10mm bolts that are near water, ie the water pump and the crossover pipe. I simply replace them if they are suspect. Those bolts are never tightened to high torque, so I don't feel the need for extra strength.

When I snap a 12mm, its my fault. And I have yet to snap a 14mm!
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 09:57 PM   #10
fastlanerex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 133391
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Delaware
Vehicle:
2004 boosted saleen
white

Default

subscribed
fastlanerex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 10:49 PM   #11
Carbon888
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 65536
Join Date: Jul 2004
Vehicle:
05 Impreza | STi
Simple.less is more.

Default

very nice write up
Carbon888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 11:11 PM   #12
Boostinwagon
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 138070
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mentaltown
Vehicle:
2005 BoostinWagon
WRB

Default

Great thread so far...I will be pulling my ej22t apart this week. Loooking forward to all your help

Thanks

Ryan
Boostinwagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 11:29 PM   #13
spritefiend
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 101190
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: 805
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited
WRB

Default

holy crap, badASS!

/subscribed.

John.
spritefiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 11:30 PM   #14
anthonyrb98
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 48307
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: san diego
Vehicle:
02 bugeye
hbspeed tuned 18g sleeper

Default

don't ever delete the pics
anthonyrb98 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 11:43 PM   #15
CatfaceType-R
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 81102
Join Date: Feb 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Micro aggression turnt
Default

thank's red devil, you are the man!
CatfaceType-R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 12:12 AM   #16
Nilesh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 126987
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago, IL
Default

Awesome!! This should be a sticky!
Nilesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 02:04 AM   #17
Marnix
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 51480
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region: International
Location: The Netherlands
Vehicle:
1984 AM5, 1984 AF1,
1994 BC4, 2015 Outback

Default

Excellent write-up.

Two small tips from my side:

1. Use a big plastic box/container to catch the oil, things get messy!
2. After removing the head bolts, reinstall the cams, cam caps and valve cover. In that way, there's no risk of the shims getting mixed up or parts getting lost - you're screwed when one cam cap goes missing. Also keeps the dirt out when you plan to store the heads for a while!
Marnix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 11:19 AM   #18
Rene2.5RS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 4574
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Bristol, CT
Vehicle:
2014 Outback 2.5i L
VRP

Default

Yeah I am going to be following this thread as I should be doing this in the next week or so.

-Rene
Rene2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 01:16 PM   #19
Paulys05wrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 82433
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Alexandria, VA
Vehicle:
2005 STi EFR 6738 &
WRX EFR 8734 Twin Scroll

Default

Darn.. Just got done doing this with my old block about a week ago with no help like this! Good job. Sticky worthy more than likely. Oh yeah nice engine stand, I have the same one, Harbor Freight huh
Paulys05wrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 01:26 PM   #20
rexspeedmaster
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 123103
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Vehicle:
2003 WRX
Full 07 STI trans

Default

^^ harbor freight rules. Really good pictures to mang.
rexspeedmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 03:26 PM   #21
reddevil
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64673
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: portland
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default

OK, the rest has been added!
reddevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 03:55 PM   #22
jblaine
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 8512
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: St. Pete, FL
Vehicle:
2002 WRX chassis...
stage-infinity.com

Default

The cam caps are not labeled LHS / RHS, so yeah, you can get them mixed up if you do both heads and just pile up the cam caps.

Labeling at least a LHS pile and a RHS pile is a minimum.

Thanks for sharing the pics with everyone.
jblaine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 04:01 PM   #23
scarsofterror
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 109589
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: riverside,ca
Vehicle:
- 02 rex/ae86
[email protected]

Default

very nice writeup! i will be splitting my case today or tomorrow on my motor. but its completely siezed( wont even budge with a huge breaker bar on the crank pulley nut), so im gonna have to try to break the case with the pistons still in.
scarsofterror is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 04:14 PM   #24
Richie03
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 38136
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: PA
Default

Great Write Up w/ Pics! Keep it up reddevil!
Richie03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 04:19 PM   #25
TROLL
Top Scoob 006
 
Member#: 14424
Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Stuart, FL
Vehicle:
BugI w/ 07 STi Swap
www.TriStateTuners.com

Default

very nice... i kinda winged it when i tore down my first block. i took my time and i labelled everything.

one tip is that i went to a hardware store and got this divider tray, actually i got 3 of them. every time i pulled a bolt, sensor, or other smaller part off it got dropped into its own little division with a piece of paper labelling what it is or where it goes. this was very very helpful to me because there is a lot of hardware that comes off of a motor during teardown, plus sensors and other random bits.

also i feel you on the tapered wrist pins. here's a great tip for removing the tapered ones. i bought a 'cabinet screwdriver' at sears which is basically a very long, very thin flathead screwdriver. i'd like to emphasize very thin again, its important. using this i was able to go through the block from the opposite side to push the wrist pins out. yup, not pulling the near one, i was pushing the far one. you need to line the pistons up just right (there's a very small sweet spot where the wrist pin is almost centered in the access hole but its slightly offcenter) to be able to barely slide the screwdriver just past the near rod through to the far wrist pin. its a precise operation but if you get the placement right, you're home free. just tap the end of the screwdriver a few times with a mallet to get it moving.
TROLL is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Looking for help tearing down block 25rsti New England Impreza Club Forum -- NESIC 4 01-19-2010 08:14 PM
04 STi Long Block Tear Down 44wear Built Motor Discussion 16 08-07-2009 07:00 PM
3.0 Liter 6 cylinder short block tear down Kingpin Built Motor Discussion 32 09-21-2006 11:56 PM
Any pictorial guides on removing air silencer? f4phantomii Newbies & FAQs 9 07-15-2004 11:37 AM
Timing belt, can it be inspected without full tear down ? Legacy Normally Aspirated Powertrain 5 11-21-2001 07:42 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2019 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.