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Old 08-13-2008, 06:56 AM   #1
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 169017
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
02 Bugeye

Default Engine build critique/suggestions

Rod bearing is on it's way out sooner than I would have expected. Was in the process of starting/planning a build, but now it's really crunch time. Have a few things that I'am set on such as the 2.5l block. Don't really like the low end power the 2.0l has so I'm upgrading to hybrid. Plan is for about 300whp (prefferably more)on pump gas, budget is not overly a concern but keeping in mind the price of the parts I've selected would be nice.

Vehicle:02 Bugeye
WRX street PnP heads: (BC) valves, springs/ret, cams 272/272, STI shimless
STI 2.5L SB (stock:crank,rods, bearings)+Forged "hybrid" pistons (8:3.1)
02 WRX Intake mani + TGV delete
2.5l OEM gasket kit
STI oil/water pump
ARP head studs
255 walbro fuel pump
tune: protune

Turbo: thinking stock mount so 18g or 20g
IC:bigger TM, or front mount?
EM:Utec, ?
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:51 AM   #2
Scooby Guru
Member#: 9960
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: in bed...
2002 Impreza WRX
WRBlue Perl


Turbo; TD06 20G. SOme do the 18G and like that too, but those who did the 20G claim that there is very little lag.. But then again, that is with the stock compression ratio. You will likely notice more lag with your lower CR.p

IC: If you like your throttle response, stick with a TMIC, Spearco. If you want more top end power at the expense of a bit of a dulled throttle response, go FMIC. The APS FMIC's I liked... Perhaps the DR550.

With regard to the throttle response... people are often confused as to what it meant... With a FMIC, it will feel as if there is always a bit of slack in your throttle cable, so the instant you hit the throttle, there is a slight pause before the engine starts to pick up revs. With the TMIC as you know, the moment you touch the throttle, the engine is reacting already.

Also, you will notice more consistent power all day with the FMIC, since it doesn't get heatsoaked by the engine. I am sure you notice the drop off in power on hot days, and the almost shocking amount of extra vigor that the car has on cool days. Well, with a FMIC, you don't notice this anywhere as much since power is more consistent due to the charge being more consistent in temperature.

EM: I would stick with a reflash. This will keep your car driving exactly like stock, without the hangups associated with going with piggybacks and standalone ECU's. With the reflashed unit, the car works like a stocker as you know. I liked this feature when I was at around your stage of modification. I am now with a standalone ECU, not by choice but by necessity. It works great for me, but if I could have had my stock ECU do what I need the standalone to do, I would have kept it in. There a few things that the stock ECU did that standalones can't do.

Injectors: I'd get some Ultimate Racing 785cc injectors (require a resistor pack to be wired in) or some of the Deaschworks (sp) 800cc injectors which will drop in like stock.

That should just about cover things for you.

PS: You mentioned you wanted more bottom end power than the ej205, but your setup is geared more toward less bottom end grunt than usual. For those wanting more bottom end power, they usually will keep a higher than usual compression ratio, and not go with cams that move the powerband so far to the right at the expense of low end power...You may find that at the end of the day, you have no more low end power than you did with the ej205, although you will be able to make more top end power than one..Your engine setup seems contradictory to what you said you were looking for over your previous engine.
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:24 PM   #3
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 169017
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
02 Bugeye


Thanks for the thorough reply. I'm really not looking for a lot more low-end just a bit for DD, and the 2.5 should help with that off boost. Consequently though I don't want to mess with the CR with HG thckness, so instead opt for the custom pistons. As for the cams I've actually been debating between those and the Crower 264/264, but can't decide. I want more power on the mid-top range without it dropping off to early or coming on to late. I'm thinking a stagered config like Kelford would be the best bet but cost is noticeably higher.
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:40 AM   #4
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 111268
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: The Mullet Mafia
.... MLTMFA2


Doing my build with 8.3:1 pistons on a hybrid setup with some serious headwork, FPred, 280 camshafts, etc. etc. We'll see how it goes I'm building this thing for some topend power. I've snapped a few pictures, but don't feel like posting a dedicated thread for my build, haha.
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