Hey everyone I have a 2003 wrx (Automatic)
Mod list-
-Cobb Access port stage2 (have several maps from surgeline tuning for 18psi)
-Cobb Catback Exhaust
-Catless DC sports down pipe
-Catless Dc sports up pipe
-More free flowing air filter
-NGK 1 stage colder spark plugs
-STI Pink injectors
-STI TMIC
-Blouch 16g turbo
I think that is it...I was wondering is there a break in process with the new turbo? I know that when you get a new car you usually need to break it in for a few hundred miles is this the same with the turbo? The tuner said you need to WOT to read the peek boost but my friend who's helping me with the install (Already installed the fuel pump bout a hour ago) Said that I should at least let it get 500 easy miles on it before I even think of WOT, Any advice would be helpful!

Prior to/during turbo installation:
Pre-oil turbo
Prior to removal of any bolts, spray with a penetrant such as PB Blaster and allow to soak for 5-15 minutes
Uppipe to turbo and turbo to downpipe bolt torque spec is 26-30 ft. lbs.

After turbo installation:
Crank engine for 20 seconds to lubricate turbo (by pulling the 'IGN' fuse)
Let idle for about 30 minutes
Check for leaks and fluid levels several times
Break turbo in for a couple hundred miles (for new turbos)
Change oil after break-in (for new turbos)

k04sti is exactly right, but it's also not a bad idea to email blouch too seeing as they created the turbo so maybe they have specific break in procedures. It's best to follow them so they wont deny you're warranty due to improper break in.

I don't wanna jack your thread but I have a quick question concerning this topic. In the next few days I plan on doing a turbo upgrade too and was curious about the break in thing too, and I have a general question on the topic.

If you do a turbo upgrade you need to tune for the new turbo, right? But before really stressing the turbo you need a break in period of a couple hundred miles, right?So how are you supposed to be able to travel those miles and know that the new turbo run off the old settings won't cause any damage to anything before it can get tuned?

Again I'm not asking just for personal education (otherwise I would've PMed) I just thought of this and thought maybe....just maybe, if I ask, somebody else will learn something too lmao Thanks

Prime the turbo before you install it, than crank it over several times until you build oil pressure, than start it up. The turbo spins so fast there is virtually no "break in" time neccesary. if its gonna fail it'll do it immediately.

If your unsure i would absolutely reccomend calling blouch and asking for their reccomendations. They will no more about that turbo than anyone else here on the boards.

no.....there is always a 'break in' cycle for mechanical things like turbos and it is presicely because of the fact that it spins so fast that it REQUIRES a break in.

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http://www.blouchturbo.com/facts/installation/

Thanks for the help guys, I was aware of the whole priming the turbo with oil, Just wasn't sure how i was supposed to check for peek boost which requires WOT when your supposed to be very easy on it for the first few hundred miles...I guess I will call up blouch and ask them and see what they say.

right up until the no break in comment. They do need a bit of time to properly break in. But do make sure you don't fire it up and go. Some startups and a bit of idling do wonders.

I eat my words...but here are deadbolts instructions.

Deadbolt's Correct WRX & STi Turbocharger Break-In Procedure:
It is absolutely VITAL that certain steps be followed when installing a new or rebuilt turbocharger on a vehicle. Failure to follow the correct procedures will not only VOID your warranty, but will also cause premature failure, or destruction of your turbocharger.

1. Thoroughly clean out any oil supply lines to the turbocharger and oil coolers.
2. Change the engine oil and use a high-quality non-synthetic engine oil for turbocharger break-in.
3. Install the turbocharger and attach all bolts, lines, oil supply, etc. but DO NOT START THE CAR!!! AND DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY TYPE OF SILICONE SEALANT ON THE OIL SUPPLY LINE!!!
4. Prime the oil system by cranking the engine over (WITHOUT STARTING IT) for 10-15 seconds, and repeat this step 3-5 times minimum. There are many ways to make sure that your car will not start, you can unplug the coil wire on vehicles with distributor-style ignition, or on vehicles with direct fire ignition, you can disconnect the coil packs, or the ignition relay. It is VERY important that your car DOES NOT START while pre-oiling the turbo.
5. After you have completed the above step you can start the car and allow it to IDLE ONLY.
6. Allow the vehicle to idle for 10-15 minutes without applying any throttle. Even at idle, the turbo can be spinning at as much as 28,000 RPM's on certain models. Use this time to check for any loose fittings, hoses, exhaust leaks, etc.
7. After idling the car as prescribed above, you may then begin to drive the car. Make every attempt to limit boost for the first 100-200 miles.

So...???

I mean it is not exactly necessary, but it would definitely benefit your turbo and your car. Think of it as a break in period for the car. Some people just drive it hard the first day they get it and it works fine. Many people have done it both ways, but it is always best in my opinion to take the safe route.

And don't start going crazy if there is smoke pouring out of the DP/ turbo area on initial idle. Its the PB Blaster/ assembly lube burning off.

IGN fuse is in the cab and its #11 ? (read the diagram)

just get it nice and hot.

My question is about paragraph 7 of DB istruction.
After I'm done with the install, I will need a dynotune. However, dynotune will push the car to extreme, which is clearly against what DB recommends.

I'll need to drive car without boost for 100-200 miles. How am I supposed to do it without a new map?

You're tuner should be able to supply you with a basemap, just like they do for when people break in new motors