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Old 03-01-2009, 01:11 PM   #1
96stangGT
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Default Viper 771xv into 04 Forester XT

I posted this at the 12volt but I'm going to start installing today and haven't had any help. Maybe someone can give this a once over and give me some feedback or tips as soon as possible:

I was hoping that you guys could look over my diagram for an install I'll be doing hopefully this weekend, so the sooner you guys could help, the better. I've installed a couple 791xv's a few years ago but I can't remember yesterday, let alone what I did for the installs. Check the wiring and let me know if I need to add any relays or diodes, or if my wiring is wrong, etc.

I'll add vehicle wiring colors in a little bit. Also not sure which door lock/unlock wire to use on my car:




DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - SUBARU / FORESTER / 2004 / Remote Start

12volts white + ignition harness
Starter white/blue + ignition harness
Second Starter N/A
Ignition green + ignition harness
Second Ignition N/A
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory yellow + ignition harness
Second Accessory N/A
Keysense white/red + ignition harness
Power Lock red/white - gray plug at integrated module
Notes: The integrated module is to the left of the steering column.
Power Unlock yellow/red - gray plug at integrated module
Notes: The integrated module is to the left of the steering column.
Lock Motor lt. green/black 5wi blue plug at integrated module
Notes: The integrated module is to the left of the steering column.
Unlock Motor red 5wi blue plug at integrated module
Notes: The integrated module is to the left of the steering column.
Parking Lights+ black/red or orange + parking switch
Parking Lights- black/pink - lighting switch
Notes: The negative parking lights wire only works with the ignition on.
Hazards same as turn signal wires
Turn Signal(L) black/green + steering column or keyless
Notes: The keyless entry control module is above the passenger kick panel.
Turn Signal(R) lt. green/black + steering column or keyless
Notes: The keyless entry control module is above the passenger kick panel.
Reverse Light brown/yellow + passenger kick, harness to rear
Door Trigger yellow - gray plug at integrated module
Notes: The integrated module is to the left of the steering column.
Dome Supervision use door trigger wire
Trunk/Hatch Pin common with door trigger wire
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm factory remote only
Factory Alarm Disarm factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock factory remote only
Tachometer green ac ECM, 35 pin plug, pin 10
Notes: The ECM (Engine Control Module) is below the glove box. The tach wire is also found behind the instrument cluster in the middle plug.

On the turbo models, the tach wire is in the 34 pin plug, pin 23.
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire white/black + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake lt. green to lt. green/black - parking brake switch
Horn Trigger red/green - steering column or keyless
Notes: The keyless entry control module is above the passenger kick panel.
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Interface Module: Category:
Required:
No Type:
N/A
Part #: N/A
Notes: N/A
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:08 PM   #2
thedaddyb
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everything looks pretty spot on at quick glance.

You can totally ditch the factory arm and disarm wire outputs and relays. There isn't a way to integrate into the factory security system. There isn't a factory disarm wire, it is built into the keyless module and is deactivated only by the remotes.

The only thing confusing me is your window control modules. What exactly are you trying to control, and why a 530t and a 529t? just the front windows and sunroof? I'm also kind of lost as to why you are using the 529t to activate the 530t.

For the lock and unlock wires on the car. You want the lock switch wires at the integrated module. Don't bother with the actual motor wires.
From the three pin harness on the brain module, the blue will control your unlock and the green your lock.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:04 PM   #3
96stangGT
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Thanks for the help.

530t for front windows and 529t for sunroof. I hardly ever use the rear windows so I'm not too worried about those. They are not controlling one another, instead they are both controlled by channel 4 on the remote.

Couple more questions:
Can all the constant 12v be attached to the same wire and all the grounds to the same point?
And is one relay enough for 3 sirens or does each one need its own relay?
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:18 PM   #4
02SilvaWagon
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The blue wire coming from the 520T needs to go to the blue wire in the H1 harness of the 771xv. Diode isolate it from the blue of the 507M. The black ground wire in the H1 needs to go directly to ground.

1 relay for all 3 sirens is fine. I would probably bump the fuse up to 7.5 amps.

Run the power for the 529T and 530T directly to the battery. Ground them in the kick panel...or wherever you place the modules.

The power wires/ground wires for the rest of the system can go to the same point.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:24 PM   #5
96stangGT
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Diode to both the 520t and the 507m or just to the 507m? And which way for the band on the diode?
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:49 AM   #6
thedaddyb
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well you are running the red/white from the 530t to the gray/black of the 529t

the 529t outputs a ground to that wire when it's activated so it will turn on the 530t. I would just skip wiring it that way and just run the red/white to whatever aux channel you want on the alarm.

Personally I would wire the aux channels separately so you could choose to only crack the sunroof and not the windows at the same time.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:42 PM   #7
96stangGT
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That's a good point. I'll probably end up doing that.

Got the basics done last night: mounted the brain, sirens, and hood pin; wired the sirens, the hood pin, the battery backup, and door locks.

Tonight I hope to get the remote start, neutral safety switch, brake switch, door trigger, doomlight, 507m, 504d, 506t, led mounted, and hide the valet button somewhere.
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:25 AM   #8
vipernj
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remember, the aux channel can be setup to activate the 530t and close the windows on lock.

You can find the brake switch wire at the cruise control module is its easier. The factory doorlock module with supply with you those, and parking lights can be found in the kick or at the column.

For the domelight, i used to use the doorpin wire. I never had a problem with most cars, unless the domelight was timed to shut off after a few seconds, which I don't think is the case with that year.

For the clutch, I used to use status output with a diode (stripe facing the clutch wire) to remote start but still need the clutch when starting with the key.

Oh ya, and the 530t was easier to put in the door, then just run the activation and power wire through the grommets. You can also wire up some mini piezos under the dash to deafen whoever dares to steal your car haha
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Old 03-03-2009, 03:22 AM   #9
96stangGT
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The 529t and the 530t will be closed when armed with the orange wire that's being run and vented/controlled through ch4 and ch5.

Damn, I just spent forever soldering to the brake switch and dropping solder in my hair. Oh well, its done.

My domelight stays on for a few seconds after I close the door and fades off, if that's what you mean?

Clutch is already bypassed by the previous owner.

That's what the 513t is for, to deafen people.


Didn't get nearly as much done tonight as I had hoped. Remote start is all complete. Left to do: 507m, 506t, 504d, 529t, 530t, dome light door trigger, parking lights, and mount the led. I forgot how much fun this was.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:47 PM   #10
vipernj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96stangGT View Post
The 529t and the 530t will be closed when armed with the orange wire that's being run and vented/controlled through ch4 and ch5.

Damn, I just spent forever soldering to the brake switch and dropping solder in my hair. Oh well, its done.

My domelight stays on for a few seconds after I close the door and fades off, if that's what you mean?

Clutch is already bypassed by the previous owner.

That's what the 513t is for, to deafen people.


Didn't get nearly as much done tonight as I had hoped. Remote start is all complete. Left to do: 507m, 506t, 504d, 529t, 530t, dome light door trigger, parking lights, and mount the led. I forgot how much fun this was.
Ok cool, so everything will close on ARM unless you bypass that by hitting the aux button first i think?
haha, after doing countless cars I realized that when you hit the brakes, cruise control shuts off so it must be in the CC module. You can always find it in the kick panel going towards the rear of the car as well (hence brake lights!)
Ok so if the domelight stays on for a few seconds then you want to just find the wire instead of diode isolating the doorpin wire.

Its a good thing you didn't get much done. You'll appreciate it that much more. I can bang out a full remstart/alarm with modules in 4-8 hours depending on the car. My car took 3 days just because I was that anal. If you looked under the dash you saw nothing (the brain was zip tied to the dash support behind the cluster).

LED you can simply put on the top of the steering column in front of the P switch. Or if you have some time, put it in the center of the windshield on the plastic dash piece between the defrost vents.

When you're all done, you're going to loveeeeee it! Good luck to you
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:17 PM   #11
96stangGT
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I got everything done except the 529t. I must have wired it every way conceivable but still couldn't get it to work. I cut the wires at the switch and nothing happened. There are 3 wires going into the plug. 2 of them rest at 12v and go to 0v when opened/closed, the other must be ground as it doesn't change. There is also a second set of wires that runs to the motor. One is a constant 12v and the other is around 5v const. Any help on this?
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:39 PM   #12
thedaddyb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96stangGT View Post
I got everything done except the 529t. I must have wired it every way conceivable but still couldn't get it to work. I cut the wires at the switch and nothing happened. There are 3 wires going into the plug. 2 of them rest at 12v and go to 0v when opened/closed, the other must be ground as it doesn't change. There is also a second set of wires that runs to the motor. One is a constant 12v and the other is around 5v const. Any help on this?
generally you have to tie the directed modules in the motor wires and not the switch wires for a sunroof. The motor wires should be reverse polarity, so it is confusing how they only rest at certain voltages. So both wires will remain at 12volts and 5 volts no matter what the motor is doing? Something has to show a voltage change while the motor is in use. Usually one wire will rest at ground and then go to 12 volts in only a certain direction. Then the other wire will repeat the sequence in the other direction.
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:47 PM   #13
96stangGT
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There are a total of 5 wires. 3 go from the switch to the motor and 2 more that run straight to the motor. I don't have the colors in front of me right now.

The switch:
12v at rest, 0v while opening
0v no matter what
12v at rest, 0v while closing

Separate wires:
12v no matter what
5v no matter what

You're thinking I need to pull the whole headliner and tap the wires at the motor itself?
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:05 PM   #14
thedaddyb
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it sounds like it has the type B switch. Where the motor wires rest at ignition and go to ground when activated. The two wires that change polarity while the motor are in use are the wires you will have to cut.

it should have the diagram of how to wire it up in the install guide that came with the module.

You will need to add a standard SPDT relay. Looks like you need to temporarily cut the constant 12 volt source while the module is active to prevent blowing fuses.
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Old 03-10-2009, 01:01 PM   #15
96stangGT
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I tried running a relay off of the constant 12v wire. Here's one of the many ways that I tried to wire it:

86 - fused 12v
87 - ground
87a - car side of const. 12v wire
30 - sunroof motor side of const. 12v wire

529t:
orange - orange GWA
brown - switch up
blue - motor up
green - switch down
white - motor down
red - fused 12v
black - ground
orange/blk and grey/blk - aux channel 6
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:26 PM   #16
thedaddyb
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well the relay wiring is off. 85 needs to be wired to the output wire from the 529t or it won't activate. other than that, it looks right.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:33 PM   #17
96stangGT
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Well I feel retarded. I was going based off the manual and just noticed that 85 should go to the gray wire. The instructions show it floating next to the relay but not connected to anything. Taking a step back and thinking about it, there would be no way for the relay to be activated. I'll mess with it tonight.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:39 PM   #18
96stangGT
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Stupid double post.
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:53 PM   #19
96stangGT
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No time last night or tonight to mess with the car. But I have another question... When I arm the alarm, I get a second chirp saying the door is open. I'm pretty sure this is caused by the domelight staying on while the alarm is being activated. Is there anyway around this other than turning off the door trigger alert?
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:05 PM   #20
thedaddyb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96stangGT View Post
No time last night or tonight to mess with the car. But I have another question... When I arm the alarm, I get a second chirp saying the door is open. I'm pretty sure this is caused by the domelight staying on while the alarm is being activated. Is there anyway around this other than turning off the door trigger alert?
You can turn off the door sensor bypass chirp in the programming. It's designed for cars that have an extended domelight delay that you are using for a door trigger.

What's weird though . . . I've never had that problem on any of the subarus I've put alarms in. You sure you have the proper wire for the door trigger? It should react almost immediately to the door pin being pushed in. The dome delay is wired through a separate circuit it the integrated module apart from the door trigger wires. I've also noticed that on many of the imprezas (not sure if it would be the same for the forester or not) that there are actually 2 independent door trigger wires. 1 for the driver door and 1 for the other three doors.
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