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Old 09-15-2013, 12:36 PM   #7626
manitou
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Originally Posted by jack klompus View Post
Thats what I am thinking. Not a big deal to switch them out with new seals
Any time I remove the fuel rails I like to replace all the top o-rings and inspect the lowers, lube or replace as needed. Cheap insurance really and nothing you want to leave to chance. Boost leak test and then good to go.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #7627
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Well figured I would post this here too. I have id1000 and a walbro 465 e85 pump that I wired with a dw hardwire kit to run 100% as per the directions on the kit. The pump and the relay are grounded to the chassis so the pump runs all the time when the ignition is on, This really helped my flow but I wanted to keep my idc down more so I got a fuelab fpr and installed it today.
I set it as per instructions but it seems I cant get the base pressure lower then 50psi. With the fpr on the loosest setting with the key turned on but not started she reads around 45psi but as soon as I turn the car on she goes rite to 50 ish. Even if the vac line is hooked up or not it still reads 50. I thought when it was in vac it should go lower? Is it just that the pump is flowing so much that it cant go lower? Wither way it seems to be fine as I was going to up my base pressure to around 50-55 anyway and she runs normal. It actually idles a lot nicer and is not running rich as I assume my oem was getting over run by this pressure when I hard wired the pump. Just wanted to see if this was normal?
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:36 PM   #7628
manitou
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I'm not sure why you didn't wire it through your oem FPC instead of 100% duty all the time. That pump may be overwhelming your system at 100%. It's probably not great for the pump either! Are there issues with wiring it the through the FPC on the SH Foresters ? I'm close to maxing out my 1300's and the Walbro 465 with the re-wire through my stock FPC.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:42 PM   #7629
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I am not sure I was just doing what the instructions on the hardwire kit said but I suppose I could re attach the ground on the fpc so it will shut off after priming and cycle the pump. I will have to ask my tuner what he thinks. I also was reading that the extra volts could possibly damage the fuel pump controller.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:00 PM   #7630
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I don't think the higher voltage and amperage will damage the FPC. 12 volts pumps, controllers and peripherals are usually good to 17.5 volts. 12 volt systems can vary from 8 volts to 18 volts, they have to build in a low and high voltage cut off because it's just the nature if the beast.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:06 PM   #7631
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If you wire it through the FPC it operates at 33, 66 and 100% as dictated by the controller. I think you'll be fine with your build using the FPC and you could bump the base to 55 psi if you need but consult your tuner about that change.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:09 PM   #7632
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I may look at the BAP or the Fuel Pro now so I can bump up the base to 55 and not max the pump. I'm seeing it lean out now on my build on 4th gear high rpm pulls at 50 psi base with my 1300's flowing 1445cc's.

Last edited by manitou; 09-20-2013 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:17 PM   #7633
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BAP FTW...slightly biased lol...but I loved it when I had it on my personal vehicle.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:32 PM   #7634
manitou
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Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
BAP FTW...slightly biased lol...but I loved it when I had it on my personal vehicle.
Yeah Josh, I didn't think I would need one but I'm starting to think that I would benefit from it now based on the 1300's IDCs and AFR's at high rpm in 4th.

Last edited by manitou; 09-20-2013 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:15 PM   #7635
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Yeah I will put the fpc ground back on the pump instead of grounding to chassis so I can retain the fpc. I just am worried about the fpc but I guess it's either that or cut my pumps life in half by running at 100% all the time.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:56 AM   #7636
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What's the worry about the controller?
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:58 AM   #7637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
What's the worry about the controller?
I think some are worried that hardwiring the pump will cause the fpc to burn up. I have been using the stock fpc with a hardwired walbro 465 for a thousand mikes or so. And an aero 340 hardwired with the stock fpc for a couple thousand miles before that. No issues here.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:13 AM   #7638
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Originally Posted by 05_wRex View Post
I think some are worried that hardwiring the pump will cause the fpc to burn up. I have been using the stock fpc with a hardwired walbro 465 for a thousand mikes or so. And an aero 340 hardwired with the stock fpc for a couple thousand miles before that. No issues here.
Yeah ideally your supposed to use a relay powered by the battery and trigger the relay with the stock fpc. Using the fpc to power the pump is not really hard wired . Will give up some flow that way
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:28 AM   #7639
manitou
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^^Yeah, that's why I mentioned installing the KB Boost a Pump or the FuelPro fuel pump controller to give the pump some higher voltages. WRXt4cy/ Graham just installed a FuelPro on his 11 STI with a 465 and Five O 1400's without the pump re-wore so I asked him what he thought of it.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:35 AM   #7640
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Originally Posted by manitou View Post
^^Yeah, that's why I mentioned installing the KB Boost a Pump or the FuelPro fuel pump controller to give the pump some higher voltages. WRXt4cy/ Graham just installed a FuelPro on his 11 STI with a 465 and Five O 1400's without the pump re-wore so I asked him what he thought of it.
I gotcha. Yeah the stock fpc has baby wires powering it! I'd be worried to have one setup that way
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:44 AM   #7641
manitou
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I hear ya! I think though the idea of the re-wire through the stock fpc is that you use the bigger wire to carry the voltage from the battery back to the pump area with an appropriate rated relay and minimize the voltage drop. The little wires to the fpc are short so hopefully with the added voltage they won't get to hot and it's not like they are at 100% all the time.

I need to play with this a bit more and test things out. I may install a BAP or FuelPro.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:57 AM   #7642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I hear ya! I think though the idea of the re-wire through the stock fpc is that you use the bigger wire to carry the voltage from the battery back to the pump area with an appropriate rated relay and minimize the voltage drop. The little wires to the fpc are short so hopefully with the added voltage they won't get to hot and it's not like they are at 100% all the time. I need to play with this a bit more and test things out. I may install a BAP or FuelPro.
Yeah that's how I see it as done properly. I just used the fpc to signal my relay to close and start sending power. That way the fpc isn't doing crap really.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:09 AM   #7643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post

Yeah ideally your supposed to use a relay powered by the battery and trigger the relay with the stock fpc. Using the fpc to power the pump is not really hard wired . Will give up some flow that way
Oh, well that's probably why I don't have any problems...that's how mine is wired.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:17 AM   #7644
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Well I just put the ground back to the fpc instead of leaving it grounded to the chassis and it seems to be much better. It primes and shuts off and I dialed it down to 43.5 base pressure and as soon as I put the vac line on it went down into the 30's like it should. I will turn it up when I get my tune to lower my idc. It also seems to idle a lot more smooth instead of a hunting idle when it was 100%.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:20 AM   #7645
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I see people saying they've wired it with power coming from the battery and the relay is just switched by the fpc. (Proper) I also see people wiring the whole thing through the fpc. They both say that they "wired it through the fpc" so I think there is just a lack of specification when they say that. Using the fpc to switch a separate relay with heavy gauge wires is the correct way to do it. Obviously, the other way could burn something up. Though it seems unlikely unless you're at wide open throttle all day long. Or don't have your pump duty cycle set correctly.

BTW, pump duty cycle can be set on the aem v1, aem v2, and vipec v88. I saw some complain about the aem standalones running the pump duty 100% causing the pump to overrun the stock fpr. There is a table in the aem software to setup 2 different percentages vs. Rpm, etc. The vipec will do 3 stages, all user configurable.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:24 AM   #7646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate_fisher View Post
Well I just put the ground back to the fpc instead of leaving it grounded to the chassis and it seems to be much better. It primes and shuts off and I dialed it down to 43.5 base pressure and as soon as I put the vac line on it went down into the 30's like it should. I will turn it up when I get my tune to lower my idc. It also seems to idle a lot more smooth instead of a hunting idle when it was 100%.
Are you running cobb ap? For any change in fuel flow/pressure, the fuel tables and settings need to be adjusted. If you didn't change anything in the map to reflect the drastic change in fuel flow at idle, and I suspect low rpm driveability as well, the car is essentially trying to operate under the wrong parameters. Hence, the hunting idle. Just throwing it out there in case you were wondering why it did what it did.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:25 AM   #7647
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Yeah I have it wired with 10g wire from the battery to the relay. The fpc positive into the relay and 12g wire from relay back to pump and fpc ground to pump and the relay grounded to chassis. I used to have the pump grounded to chassis as well making it run 100% completely deleting the fpc duty cycles as per directions on the dw hardwire kit but it was over running my fuelab fpr.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:31 AM   #7648
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Not really sure as i don't tune the car myself and i did have it tuned after the hardwire it had to be leaned out quite a bit. But i am finding that with the pump at 100% that the fuel pressure would not drop any lower then 50 even with the vac line off or on fpr. The idle was ok but felt a little off and i am assuming it was running rich with the stock fpr not being able to keep up with the demand of the 465 hence the reason i installed the fuelab yesterday.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:44 AM   #7649
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I gotcha. Yeah the stock fpc has baby wires powering it! I'd be worried to have one setup that way
Assuming the fuelpro is the same as the BAP, the voltage and wiring going to the pump is completely redone, and the wiring coming into the BAP only sees stock voltages so...leaving the stock wiring doesn't effect or risk anything. The BAP works the same as an ignition booster in the sense that no matter what the input voltage is, the output voltage is whatever you set it at... 14V, 16V, 18V, etc
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:49 AM   #7650
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[quote="amalgrover;40635038"] Assuming the fuelpro is the same as the BAP, the voltage and wiring going to the pump is completely redone, and the wiring coming into the BAP only sees stock voltages so...leaving the stock wiring doesn't effect or risk anything. The BAP works the same as an ignition booster in the sense that no matter what the input voltage is, the output voltage is whatever you set it at... 14V, 16V, 18V, etc[/QUOTE

Oh ok that's pretty cool . Actually that's really nice, could raise voltage a bit if you needed more from if
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