Meatys Timing Belt Changing Guide

Meatbawl · 06-27-2009, 11:33 PM

Meatys Timing Belt Change Guide

If you prefer an HD video walkthrough of this guide; it can be found HERE

Words of caution before performing this procedure:

Pay attention to the diagram (just before step # 18) showing the CORRECT direction to turn the 2 large cam pulleys on the drivers' side. Not following the diagram, and spinning the pulleys in the wrong direction could cause interference in the valves, causing them to bend, thus creating a very expensive and timely repair!

Keep your new timing belt free from any contaminants. This includes dirt, oil, cleaners, and especially coolant. If you happen to get any of these things on the new timing belt, clean it off IMMEDIATELY after mishap and inspect for damage.

1. Open the turbo coolant tank, then remove skid plate from underneath the car if you have one.

2. Unscrew the petcock to the radiator found on the passenger side of the car. Drain the coolant into a clean container if you plan to reuse it later. While you're in this area of the car, unclip the radiator wiring harness found just above the petcock. On the bugeyes, this harness requires you to "PULL UP" the little tab while unplugging it, rather than the usual PUSH connectors found on 04+ WRX & STI's. The 04+WRX/STI connectors are gray and are a pain in the butt. The tabs are very small and hard to push, I like to use a small bolt to press the small tab down while I pull the harness out on these. I found these items easier to reach when unclipping and moving the power steering reservoir tank and coolant reservoir tank on the drivers' side.

3. Underneath the car on the drivers side, you have another radiator fan harness just like the other one. Unplug it, and then grab a screwdriver and undo the ring clamp on the lower radiator hose. Have another large container ready, you will probably get almost as much coolant out of this hose as you got out of the petcock.

4. Once the coolant is all drained, undo the ring clamps holding on the upper radiator hose, and remove the hose completely from the engine and radiator.

5. Undo the remaining 2 small coolant lines going to the radiator on the passenger side. Undo the 2 12mm bolts on the radiator support and remove the brackets. Pull out the radiator and set it in a safe place where it won't get damaged.

6. Grab a 12mm ratchet and break loose the bolt on the right side of the alternator (do not remove it, simply break it loose). Now break loose the bolt facing you on the left side of the alternator. Break it loose and give it about 4 or 5 more turns.

7. Now undo the long bolt that adjusts the height of the alternator. Turn it enough times that you are able to remove the belt. For the AC belt, simply take out the 2 12mm bolts holding the tensioner in place. Then remove the AC belt.

8. Get into the car and put the car in 3rd gear and be sure the handbrake is applied all the way. Using a 22mm socket on a breaker bar, break loose the crank pulley. Remove the screw and wiggle the crank pulley side to side until it walks off the crank. If for any reason it doesn't walk off, try hitting each side of it with a rubber mallet. If you decide to pry it off with a crowbar, be sure not to pry against the plastic timing covers!

9. Reinsert the bolt that held on the crank pulley, and screw it all the way back in. Grab a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension and go to town on all of timing cover bolts. There are 3 on the left side, 4 on the right side, and 3 that you will need to get to from underneath the car for the center cover, and 4 on top. Put the timing covers in a safe place where they won't get damaged.

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Meatbawl · 06-27-2009, 11:33 PM

10. Using the reference guide below, turn the crank bolt until the crank sprocket line is matched up the the line above it, and all the notches on the cam pulleys and inner timing cover match up just as they do in the diagram. This is how everything will line up again when the new belt is installed. If you are re-installing the same belt, now is a good time to use a paint marker to draw lines on the timing belt at each mark on the cam pulleys and notches on the timing belt cover. Be sure to also mark the line on the crank sprocket too.

11. Using a 14mm ratchet, unbolt the lower left-hand-side idler pulley. Remove the pulley entirely, then unbolt the tensioner pivot bolt. *warning, when removing the tensioner, sometimes the cam gear pulleys will go into a lift mode causing the pulleys to rotate. Be sure your fingers aren't anywhere near them when it does this to avoid injury.

12. Remove the timing belt guide that covers the belt on the crank gear using a 10mm socket. You may have to unbolt the timing belt guides on 3 of the corners of the rear timing belt cover.. do so using an allen key wrench. Be sure to eyeball the amount of gap between the guides and the timing belt before loosening them, this way you will have a good idea on how close to put them back later. Now remove the old timing belt, remove all idler pulleys and hold the center of each one with your thumb and index finger and spin them. If they spin very easily and make a "rollerskate" rattle, replace them. I recommend replacing ALL pulleys. New pulleys will make no noise, and will not continuously spin on their own. After replacing all necessary worn idler pulleys, be sure to leave the lower left pulley off (the one we removed in step 10) Torque replaced pulleys to 39 N-m / 28.9 ft lbs.

13. If you are replacing your tensioner completely (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED), skip this step.. if not, place the tensioner PIN-SIDE UP into a C-Clamp. Press the pin back into the tensioner SLOWLY, keeping the tensioner pin-side up thru the whole process. Do not go fast, I recommend this process to take at least 10 mins from beginning to end, making very small twists to the C-Clamp. Going too fast during this procedure will burst the seal making the tensioner unusable. After the hole in the pin lines up with the hole in the tensioner housing, place a hex key or small screwdriver into the holes to keep the pin down.

Use the reference diagram shown in step #10 for the next few steps. If you are reusing a timing belt, be sure that you mark the lines in the correct places. Use the illustration below to count out the amount of teeth and make marks with a sharpie or paint marker. Making the marks on the edges of the belt as well as on the surface will help see the marks on the lower pulleys where they are hard to see. Also note that the diagram also shows the single and double mark placement on the cam pulleys and where they need to be.

14. Take your car back out of 3rd gear, and double check the small line on the crank sprocket. Make sure it is lined up with the line on the motor, if not, turn the crank clockwise with the 22mm socket and align them. There are two marks on the crank sprocket a dash (line), and a dot.. you want to line up the dash

15. The passenger side top pulley, and the pulley below it will align without force. If you are using force to get them to align, you will be bending your valves! Align the passenger side top cam gear pulley as shown below. The single line mark will point straight up (and match the line in the plastic timing belt rear cover) The double line will point straight down.

16. Again: The passenger side bottom pulley, and the pulley above it will align without force. If you are using force to get them to align, you will be bending your valves! Align the passenger side lower cam gear pulley as shown below. The single mark will point directly to the left of the motor (and match the line in the plastic timing belt rear cover) The double line will point straight up and match up evenly with the double lines on the above cam gear pulley.

17. Feed the timing belt around the two cam gear pulleys that you just aligned. Your new timing belt should have marks/lines on it. (if not refer to the diagram above step 13) Be sure to line up the lines to the single lines on the cam gear pulleys. Feed the top part of the belt over to the crank gear pulley. If there is no mark on the belt where the line is on the crank gear pulley, you have the wrong lines on the belt. Try using the other end of the belt, or flip the belt around and put it on the other way if that doesn't work. ALL marks on the belt will line up with all SINGLE lines on all pulleys. There is only 1 way the belt can line up with all of them, if they don't line up, it's on wrong.

Meatbawl · 06-27-2009, 11:33 PM

*****WARNING******

The following 2 steps must be followed closely, ONLY turn the cam gear pulleys in the directions shown below, doing otherwise could bend your valves!

18. Once you have the belt on the left 2 cam gear pulleys and over the crank gear pulley, let the belt hang there for a minute, using a breakerbar with 10mm hex key socket, rotate the lower drivers side cam gear pulley COUNTER CLOCKWISE until the double line points directly upwards and the single line points directly to the right and lines up with the line in the rear timing cover. If you use a ratchet ,the gear will probably try to spin on its own when you're getting close to where you want it, and you'll have to start over again..just be sure you rotate this gear COUNTER CLOCKWISE each time.

19. Route the belt according to the picture below, put it on all pulleys with the exception of the top cam gear pulley that you have not aligned yet (the metal one) and the lower left idler pulley you have left off. Using a 10mm hex drive socket and a 3/8" breakerbar (or a ratchet if that's all you've got), turn the cam gear pulley clockwise until the single line lines up with the top mark on the rear timing cover, and the double mark lines up with the double mark on the cam gear pulley below it. Once it does, slide the belt on. If you skip your chance at the alignment because the pulley turns on it's own, keep rotating it CLOCKWISE until you get it aligned.

20. Double-check that all of your timing belt marks line up with those of the single marks on all of the pulleys. Install tensioner (39 N-m / 28.9 ft lb). Now put the timing belt guide back on, allowing ~1mm of space between it and the timing belt itself (9.8 N-m / 7.2 ft lb) . If you loosened any of the other 3 timing belt guides on the corners of the rear timing belt covers, make sure to space those and tighten the bolts. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE BELT GUIDES BE MOUNTED TO WHERE THEY ARE TOUCHING THE BELT, DOING SO WILL RUIN THE BELT PREMATURELY!

21. Re-install the lower left-hand-side idler pulley and tighten bolt (39 N-m / 28.9 ft lb) . Pull screwdriver/allen key, or pin on tensioner and allow it to tighten the belt. Now is a good time to take the 22mm socket & breaker bar and rotate the motor a few revolutions and re-align all of your cam gears to make sure none of them are off (belt marks will be off, that's fine). If all is good, reassemble timing covers and bolt on crank pulley (put car back in 3rd gear to get it tight 127 N-m / 94 ft lb). Reinstall belts and adjust tension of belts (I leave about 1/4" of play when pressing firmly on the belt). Reinstall radiator, plug in fans, attach all radiator hoses. Close petcock valve.

Now let's add the coolant

MAKE SURE YOU PROPERLY "BURP" THE COOLING SYSTEM, FAILURE TO DO SO CAN CAUSE HEADGASKET FAILURE!

Here's the procedure I use:

* Take cap off of turbo coolant reservoir

* Fill with coolant until full, then squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times until it goes down, it will be "burping" air when you do this

* Repeat above process until you can no longer fit any more coolant in the tank

* Climb into the car, set the heater controls to full hot and set the blower speed to its highest setting

* Start the car and let it idle for about 30 seconds, adding coolant if the level goes down. Shut the car off, and now squeeze the upper radiator hose repeatedly, allowing any trapped air to dissipate, allowing more room for coolant

* Restart the car and let the car get close to operating temperature, the thermostat will open, and the coolant will circulate, keep burping the upper hose if you wish, just be careful not to touch the moving belts or power steering pulley. Keep the coolant topped off until it is almost warmed up

* Shut off the car when you can no longer get it to accept any more coolant when the engine is warm, replace the cap on the reservoir, and fill the coolant overflow tank located on the radiator to the full when HOT mark

Let me know if I left anything out, or am wrong about something so I can change it

02Stevo · 07-07-2009, 02:10 PM

i have a question i cant seem to find the answer on here... i herd that on the WRX ( mine is an 02) that if you either advance or retard the timing while you are doing the timing belt on either the exhaust or intake cam (i forget witch one) it will give you an added 5-10 HP is this true and witch cam is it?? i want to say the intake but i am not 100%

Meatbawl · 07-07-2009, 02:19 PM

I've never heard this, and would think it's a myth or incorrect information. I would guess they meant advancing the timing via the tune or something, not by skipping teeth on the pulleys

I think you're better off doing a TGV delete or exhaust/intake mod for a safe 5-10+HP instead. Anyone else able to shed light on this?

02Stevo · 07-07-2009, 02:24 PM

yea i am not to sure either i herd it a while ago and i thought i saw a thread on it but i cant find it now. it was like make sure you are only 1 tooth off! no more but like i said i cant find the thread or any thing now if any one els can help lighten this up a little bit more that would be awsome thanks guys

fastwrx25 · 07-07-2009, 03:36 PM

you rock meaty! quick question how do I release the plastic clip that holds the power steering reservoir?

white2002rs · 07-07-2009, 04:29 PM

Very nice job with the pics! Very helpfull for first timers.

Thug Nasty · 07-07-2009, 05:03 PM

Great write up. Good for the newbs.

rouckey21 · 07-08-2009, 03:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastwrx25

you rock meaty! quick question how do I release the plastic clip that holds the power steering reservoir?

hey, theres a metal tab that clips over the reservoir on the passenger side of the car. all you have to do is pull back on it towards the fender and lift up on the reservoir. just be careful when you place it out of the way. it tends to leak all over the place if you have it on too much of an angle where it can leak out the cap... at least for me haha

hope this helps

Meatbawl · 07-08-2009, 07:21 AM

^this

Bad Noodle · 07-08-2009, 07:51 AM

this is awesome!

fastwrx25 · 07-08-2009, 08:00 AM

thanks for the tip rouckey

rick-l · 07-08-2009, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastwrx25

you rock meaty! quick question how do I release the plastic clip that holds the power steering reservoir?

Does this have anything to do with replacing a timing belt?

Meatbawl · 07-08-2009, 01:29 PM

/\only if you're trying to reach the radiator drain valve from the top

rick-l · 07-08-2009, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meatbawl

/\only if you're trying to reach the radiator drain valve from the top

Mine drain valve was stuck so I just took off the hose instead of forcing the issue.

Feign · 07-09-2009, 01:03 PM

Is that my old shortblock Meaty?

And what about torque specs? Gudentite is not a good enough spec for this job.

WRB_WRX · 07-10-2009, 08:41 AM

My 03 Bug Eye is at 92K and almost ready for this job. Perfect timing for this writeup! Some questions:
1: Can U align the timing marks before U pull the old belt? Seems to me this would save some time.
2: How much extra work is it to change out the water pump while your in there?
3: Torque specs?
Thanks!

Meatbawl · 07-10-2009, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRB_WRX

My 03 Bug Eye is at 92K and almost ready for this job. Perfect timing for this writeup! Some questions:
1: Can U align the timing marks before U pull the old belt? Seems to me this would save some time.
2: How much extra work is it to change out the water pump while your in there?
3: Torque specs?
Thanks!

1. Not possible to do.. once you pull the belt off..or sometimes when the tensioner is relieved, the cams will "jump" since the right side is under valve spring tension. The left side cam pulleys will stay, and easily rotate into place..getting the lower right pully aligned takes some force by hand (and possibly an extra set of hands to hold it in place). To align the top right, I recommend using a breaker-bar that you can fit a 10mm allen bit onto. This way, the pulley can't spin on it's own with its backforce. You'll have complete right & left control over it.

2. Easy about 6 or so 10mm bolts, a few hoses to pull off, clean the surface, add thin layer of water pump gasket silicone, and bolt on.

3. I will get that info, and add it in... I just snugged it all up good, and really firmly tightened the tensioner & idler pully bolts with loctite

Forcedinduction · 07-10-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRB_WRX

My 03 Bug Eye is at 92K and almost ready for this job. Perfect timing for this writeup! Some questions:
1: Can U align the timing marks before U pull the old belt? Seems to me this would save some time.
2: How much extra work is it to change out the water pump while your in there?
3: Torque specs?
Thanks!

I am going to soon change the belt on my 02 wagon. I have changed several timing belts on other vehicles, but never on a Subaru, so I am not a Subaru expert, but to answer your question #1:

Yes! I would definitely align the marks before removing the old belt! By aligning the marks before removing the belt, you ensure that the minimum amount of turning will be required to line the marks back up on the new belt. You do not want to have to turn the cam(s) and/or crank more than absolutely necessary when putting on the new belt. This could result in the valves touching together, or the piston contacting one of the valves.

So why not align before belt removal? Only takes a few seconds.

Would you agree Meatball?

Meatbawl · 07-10-2009, 04:46 PM

/\sure, I'll agree...but only because it can't harm anything to try. I've done a timing belt change 6 times on WRX's in the last 6-8months... each time, the cams will pop and go out of alignment when you take off the tensioner...they will not stay. And since you'll be lining up the crank mark first, that will put the pistons where they need to be anyway. But try it, there's nothing to lose but 20 seconds of your time giving it a shot....but to me, it's like wiping before you poop...it's gonna get messy anyway

Forcedinduction · 07-10-2009, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meatbawl

/\sure, I'll agree...but only because it can't harm anything to try. I've done a timing belt change 6 times on WRX's in the last 6-8months... each time, the cams will pop and go out of alignment when you take off the tensioner...they will not stay. And since you'll be lining up the crank mark first, that will put the pistons where they need to be anyway. But try it, there's nothing to lose but 20 seconds of your time giving it a shot....but to me, it's like wiping before you poop...it's gonna get messy anyway

Ok fair enough. So just so I am clear:

I can take the belt off at any crank angle.

Upon removing the belt, the force of the valve springs pushing the lifters against the cam lobes will cause the cams to turn, and put the valves in a closed (safe from piston) position.

Before putting on the new belt, I must first turn the crank until its mark ligns up (I can turn the cranks because the valves are all closed).

Only then can I turn the cams to their marks, and only in the order which you describe.

It seems to me that if you tried to turn the cams to their marks, and THEN turn the crank to its mark, the piston could strike one of the opened valves. Correct?

So order is everything.

Thanks.

Meatbawl · 07-10-2009, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forcedinduction

Ok fair enough. So just so I am clear:

I can take the belt off at any crank angle.

Upon removing the belt, the force of the valve springs pushing the lifters against the cam lobes will cause the cams to turn, and put the valves in a closed (safe from piston) position.

Before putting on the new belt, I must first turn the crank until its mark ligns up (I can turn the cranks because the valves are all closed).

Only then can I turn the cams to their marks, and only in the order which you describe.

It seems to me that if you tried to turn the cams to their marks, and THEN turn the crank to its mark, the piston could strike one of the opened valves. Correct?

So order is everything.

Thanks.

Sounds right, I haven't tried it any other way to find out if it causes valve interference

All WRX's I changed one on have had 0 problems with the timing belt

Meatbawl · 07-12-2009, 09:53 AM

Updated! Now with Torque Specs, and timing belt mark placement and routing diagram

Rubr_Duky · 07-12-2009, 06:38 PM

Out of sheer curiosity - your power steering pulley - that aftermarket?

06-27-2009, 11:33 PM	#2
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	10. Using the reference guide below, turn the crank bolt until the crank sprocket line is matched up the the line above it, and all the notches on the cam pulleys and inner timing cover match up just as they do in the diagram. This is how everything will line up again when the new belt is installed. If you are re-installing the same belt, now is a good time to use a paint marker to draw lines on the timing belt at each mark on the cam pulleys and notches on the timing belt cover. Be sure to also mark the line on the crank sprocket too. 11. Using a 14mm ratchet, unbolt the lower left-hand-side idler pulley. Remove the pulley entirely, then unbolt the tensioner pivot bolt. warning, when removing the tensioner, sometimes the cam gear pulleys will go into a lift mode causing the pulleys to rotate. Be sure your fingers aren't anywhere near them when it does this to avoid injury. 12. Remove the timing belt guide that covers the belt on the crank gear using a 10mm socket. You may have to unbolt the timing belt guides on 3 of the corners of the rear timing belt cover.. do so using an allen key wrench. Be sure to eyeball the amount of gap between the guides and the timing belt before loosening them, this way you will have a good idea on how close to put them back later. Now remove the old timing belt, remove all idler pulleys and hold the center of each one with your thumb and index finger and spin them. If they spin very easily and make a "rollerskate" rattle, replace them. I recommend replacing ALL pulleys. New pulleys will make no noise, and will not continuously spin on their own. After replacing all necessary worn idler pulleys, be sure to leave the lower left pulley off (the one we removed in step 10) Torque replaced pulleys to 39 N-m / 28.9 ft lbs. 13. If you are replacing your tensioner completely (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED), skip this step.. if not, place the tensioner PIN-SIDE UP into a C-Clamp. Press the pin back into the tensioner SLOWLY, keeping the tensioner pin-side up thru the whole process. Do not go fast, I recommend this process to take at least 10 mins from beginning to end, making very small twists to the C-Clamp. Going too fast during this procedure will burst the seal making the tensioner unusable. After the hole in the pin lines up with the hole in the tensioner housing, place a hex key or small screwdriver into the holes to keep the pin down. Use the reference diagram shown in step #10 for the next few steps. If you are reusing a timing belt, be sure that you mark the lines in the correct places. Use the illustration below to count out the amount of teeth and make marks with a sharpie or paint marker. Making the marks on the edges of the belt as well as on the surface will help see the marks on the lower pulleys where they are hard to see. Also note that the diagram also shows the single and double mark placement on the cam pulleys and where they need to be. 14. Take your car back out of 3rd gear, and double check the small line on the crank sprocket. Make sure it is lined up with the line on the motor, if not, turn the crank clockwise with the 22mm socket and align them. There are two marks on the crank sprocket a dash (line), and a dot.. you want to line up the dash 15. The passenger side top pulley, and the pulley below it will align without force. If you are using force to get them to align, you will be bending your valves! Align the passenger side top cam gear pulley as shown below. The single line mark will point straight up (and match the line in the plastic timing belt rear cover) The double line will point straight down. 16. Again: The passenger side bottom pulley, and the pulley above it will align without force. If you are using force to get them to align, you will be bending your valves! Align the passenger side lower cam gear pulley as shown below. The single mark will point directly to the left of the motor (and match the line in the plastic timing belt rear cover) The double line will point straight up and match up evenly with the double lines on the above cam gear pulley. 17. Feed the timing belt around the two cam gear pulleys that you just aligned. Your new timing belt should have marks/lines on it. (if not refer to the diagram above step 13) Be sure to line up the lines to the single lines on the cam gear pulleys. Feed the top part of the belt over to the crank gear pulley. If there is no mark on the belt where the line is on the crank gear pulley, you have the wrong lines on the belt. Try using the other end of the belt, or flip the belt around and put it on the other way if that doesn't work. ALL marks on the belt will line up with all SINGLE lines on all pulleys. There is only 1 way the belt can line up with all of them, if they don't line up, it's on wrong. Last edited by Meatbawl; 11-09-2010 at 07:28 PM.*

06-27-2009, 11:33 PM	#3
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	***WARNING** The following 2 steps must be followed closely, ONLY turn the cam gear pulleys in the directions shown below, doing otherwise could bend your valves! 18. Once you have the belt on the left 2 cam gear pulleys and over the crank gear pulley, let the belt hang there for a minute, using a breakerbar with 10mm hex key socket, rotate the lower drivers side cam gear pulley COUNTER CLOCKWISE until the double line points directly upwards and the single line points directly to the right and lines up with the line in the rear timing cover. If you use a ratchet ,the gear will probably try to spin on its own when you're getting close to where you want it, and you'll have to start over again..just be sure you rotate this gear COUNTER CLOCKWISE each time. 19. Route the belt according to the picture below, put it on all pulleys with the exception of the top cam gear pulley that you have not aligned yet (the metal one) and the lower left idler pulley you have left off. Using a 10mm hex drive socket and a 3/8" breakerbar (or a ratchet if that's all you've got), turn the cam gear pulley clockwise until the single line lines up with the top mark on the rear timing cover, and the double mark lines up with the double mark on the cam gear pulley below it. Once it does, slide the belt on. If you skip your chance at the alignment because the pulley turns on it's own, keep rotating it CLOCKWISE until you get it aligned. 20. Double-check that all of your timing belt marks line up with those of the single marks on all of the pulleys. Install tensioner (39 N-m / 28.9 ft lb). Now put the timing belt guide back on, allowing ~1mm of space between it and the timing belt itself (9.8 N-m / 7.2 ft lb) . If you loosened any of the other 3 timing belt guides on the corners of the rear timing belt covers, make sure to space those and tighten the bolts. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE BELT GUIDES BE MOUNTED TO WHERE THEY ARE TOUCHING THE BELT, DOING SO WILL RUIN THE BELT PREMATURELY! 21. Re-install the lower left-hand-side idler pulley and tighten bolt (39 N-m / 28.9 ft lb) . Pull screwdriver/allen key, or pin on tensioner and allow it to tighten the belt. Now is a good time to take the 22mm socket & breaker bar and rotate the motor a few revolutions and re-align all of your cam gears to make sure none of them are off (belt marks will be off, that's fine). If all is good, reassemble timing covers and bolt on crank pulley (put car back in 3rd gear to get it tight 127 N-m / 94 ft lb). Reinstall belts and adjust tension of belts (I leave about 1/4" of play when pressing firmly on the belt). Reinstall radiator, plug in fans, attach all radiator hoses. Close petcock valve. Now let's add the coolant MAKE SURE YOU PROPERLY "BURP" THE COOLING SYSTEM, FAILURE TO DO SO CAN CAUSE HEADGASKET FAILURE!** Here's the procedure I use: * Take cap off of turbo coolant reservoir * Fill with coolant until full, then squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times until it goes down, it will be "burping" air when you do this * Repeat above process until you can no longer fit any more coolant in the tank * Climb into the car, set the heater controls to full hot and set the blower speed to its highest setting * Start the car and let it idle for about 30 seconds, adding coolant if the level goes down. Shut the car off, and now squeeze the upper radiator hose repeatedly, allowing any trapped air to dissipate, allowing more room for coolant * Restart the car and let the car get close to operating temperature, the thermostat will open, and the coolant will circulate, keep burping the upper hose if you wish, just be careful not to touch the moving belts or power steering pulley. Keep the coolant topped off until it is almost warmed up * Shut off the car when you can no longer get it to accept any more coolant when the engine is warm, replace the cap on the reservoir, and fill the coolant overflow tank located on the radiator to the full when HOT mark Let me know if I left anything out, or am wrong about something so I can change it Last edited by Meatbawl; 11-09-2010 at 07:26 PM.

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Timing belt change with seal change?	file_id	Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo)	3	07-09-2007 02:59 PM

06-27-2009, 11:33 PM	#1
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	Meatys Timing Belt Changing Guide Meatys Timing Belt Change Guide If you prefer an HD video walkthrough of this guide; it can be found HERE Words of caution before performing this procedure: Pay attention to the diagram (just before step # 18) showing the CORRECT direction to turn the 2 large cam pulleys on the drivers' side. Not following the diagram, and spinning the pulleys in the wrong direction could cause interference in the valves, causing them to bend, thus creating a very expensive and timely repair! Keep your new timing belt free from any contaminants. This includes dirt, oil, cleaners, and especially coolant. If you happen to get any of these things on the new timing belt, clean it off IMMEDIATELY after mishap and inspect for damage. 1. Open the turbo coolant tank, then remove skid plate from underneath the car if you have one. 2. Unscrew the petcock to the radiator found on the passenger side of the car. Drain the coolant into a clean container if you plan to reuse it later. While you're in this area of the car, unclip the radiator wiring harness found just above the petcock. On the bugeyes, this harness requires you to "PULL UP" the little tab while unplugging it, rather than the usual PUSH connectors found on 04+ WRX & STI's. The 04+WRX/STI connectors are gray and are a pain in the butt. The tabs are very small and hard to push, I like to use a small bolt to press the small tab down while I pull the harness out on these. I found these items easier to reach when unclipping and moving the power steering reservoir tank and coolant reservoir tank on the drivers' side. 3. Underneath the car on the drivers side, you have another radiator fan harness just like the other one. Unplug it, and then grab a screwdriver and undo the ring clamp on the lower radiator hose. Have another large container ready, you will probably get almost as much coolant out of this hose as you got out of the petcock. 4. Once the coolant is all drained, undo the ring clamps holding on the upper radiator hose, and remove the hose completely from the engine and radiator. 5. Undo the remaining 2 small coolant lines going to the radiator on the passenger side. Undo the 2 12mm bolts on the radiator support and remove the brackets. Pull out the radiator and set it in a safe place where it won't get damaged. 6. Grab a 12mm ratchet and break loose the bolt on the right side of the alternator (do not remove it, simply break it loose). Now break loose the bolt facing you on the left side of the alternator. Break it loose and give it about 4 or 5 more turns. 7. Now undo the long bolt that adjusts the height of the alternator. Turn it enough times that you are able to remove the belt. For the AC belt, simply take out the 2 12mm bolts holding the tensioner in place. Then remove the AC belt. 8. Get into the car and put the car in 3rd gear and be sure the handbrake is applied all the way. Using a 22mm socket on a breaker bar, break loose the crank pulley. Remove the screw and wiggle the crank pulley side to side until it walks off the crank. If for any reason it doesn't walk off, try hitting each side of it with a rubber mallet. If you decide to pry it off with a crowbar, be sure not to pry against the plastic timing covers! 9. Reinsert the bolt that held on the crank pulley, and screw it all the way back in. Grab a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension and go to town on all of timing cover bolts. There are 3 on the left side, 4 on the right side, and 3 that you will need to get to from underneath the car for the center cover, and 4 on top. Put the timing covers in a safe place where they won't get damaged. * Registered users of the site do not see these ads. Last edited by Meatbawl; 09-19-2011 at 05:55 PM.

07-07-2009, 02:10 PM	#4
02Stevo Scooby Newbie Member#: 124957 Join Date: Sep 2006	i have a question i cant seem to find the answer on here... i herd that on the WRX ( mine is an 02) that if you either advance or retard the timing while you are doing the timing belt on either the exhaust or intake cam (i forget witch one) it will give you an added 5-10 HP is this true and witch cam is it?? i want to say the intake but i am not 100%

07-07-2009, 02:19 PM	#5
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	I've never heard this, and would think it's a myth or incorrect information. I would guess they meant advancing the timing via the tune or something, not by skipping teeth on the pulleys I think you're better off doing a TGV delete or exhaust/intake mod for a safe 5-10+HP instead. Anyone else able to shed light on this?

07-07-2009, 02:24 PM	#6
02Stevo Scooby Newbie Member#: 124957 Join Date: Sep 2006	yea i am not to sure either i herd it a while ago and i thought i saw a thread on it but i cant find it now. it was like make sure you are only 1 tooth off! no more but like i said i cant find the thread or any thing now if any one els can help lighten this up a little bit more that would be awsome thanks guys

07-07-2009, 03:36 PM	#7
fastwrx25 Scooby Guru Member#: 126441 Join Date: Sep 2006 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: TPE Vehicle: 03 bugeye	you rock meaty! quick question how do I release the plastic clip that holds the power steering reservoir?

07-07-2009, 04:29 PM	#8
white2002rs * Banned * Member#: 101491 Join Date: Nov 2005 Chapter/Region: South East Location: whorelando, fl Vehicle: 2002 wrsti wrb	Very nice job with the pics! Very helpfull for first timers.

07-07-2009, 05:03 PM	#9
Thug Nasty Scooby Specialist Member#: 128492 Join Date: Oct 2006 Chapter/Region: HIIC Location: Oahu, HI Vehicle: 2002 WRX - Hybrid PSM	Great write up. Good for the newbs.

07-08-2009, 07:21 AM	#11
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	^this

07-08-2009, 07:51 AM	#12
Bad Noodle Scooby Specialist Member#: 174442 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NNJ Vehicle: 2007 SuperWagon I don't spell well	this is awesome!

07-08-2009, 08:00 AM	#13
fastwrx25 Scooby Guru Member#: 126441 Join Date: Sep 2006 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: TPE Vehicle: 03 bugeye	thanks for the tip rouckey

07-08-2009, 01:29 PM	#15
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	/\only if you're trying to reach the radiator drain valve from the top

07-09-2009, 01:03 PM	#17
Feign Scooby Specialist Member#: 68604 Join Date: Aug 2004 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: http://www.indianaimpreza.com Vehicle: 06 STi OBP	Is that my old shortblock Meaty? And what about torque specs? Gudentite is not a good enough spec for this job.

07-10-2009, 08:41 AM	#18
WRB_WRX Scooby Specialist Member#: 9442 Join Date: Aug 2001 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Des Plaines, IL Vehicle: 03 WRX Sedan The New "03 WRB"	My 03 Bug Eye is at 92K and almost ready for this job. Perfect timing for this writeup! Some questions: 1: Can U align the timing marks before U pull the old belt? Seems to me this would save some time. 2: How much extra work is it to change out the water pump while your in there? 3: Torque specs? Thanks!

07-10-2009, 04:46 PM	#21
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	/\sure, I'll agree...but only because it can't harm anything to try. I've done a timing belt change 6 times on WRX's in the last 6-8months... each time, the cams will pop and go out of alignment when you take off the tensioner...they will not stay. And since you'll be lining up the crank mark first, that will put the pistons where they need to be anyway. But try it, there's nothing to lose but 20 seconds of your time giving it a shot....but to me, it's like wiping before you poop...it's gonna get messy anyway

07-12-2009, 09:53 AM	#24
Meatbawl Scooby Specialist Member#: 175878 Join Date: Mar 2008 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Fort Wayne, IN	Updated! Now with Torque Specs, and timing belt mark placement and routing diagram

07-12-2009, 06:38 PM	#25
Rubr_Duky Scooby Specialist Member#: 2159 Join Date: Aug 2000 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Fullerton, CA Vehicle: 2004 WRX Some semblance of Silver	Out of sheer curiosity - your power steering pulley - that aftermarket?