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Old 10-31-2016, 09:02 PM   #1
slowsubie
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Default Road noise

I have recently bought a 11 sti hatch and the road noise is pretty loud. I'd like you quite it down. I've used dynamat before in my pickup and it made a night and day difference but it's kinda pricey.
Is there a better option, what have you used?
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:02 PM   #2
Ziggyrama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsubie View Post
I have recently bought a 11 sti hatch and the road noise is pretty loud. I'd like you quite it down. I've used dynamat before in my pickup and it made a night and day difference but it's kinda pricey.
Is there a better option, what have you used?
Dynamat is not a sound blocker. This is a common misconception. Dynamat is a sound deadener which adds mass and reduces resonance which may help reducing vibration and rattles but does next to nothing to block noise. If you want to reduce noise in the cabin, you need to add CCF (closed cell foam) which acts as a decoupler and than add MLV (mass loaded vinyl) which is the actual sound blocking material. Note, MLV can only block so much since thickness is directly proportional to what it can block. Search around and you will see threads where folks do the treatment. It is labor intensive and time consuming but results can be awesome.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:34 PM   #3
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Also remember it's not particularly conducive to performance in a car like an STI. Maybe it won't make a huge difference in a 400hp/900lbft diesel truck, but it could add a lot of weight and be a noticeable difference in a relative feather like an STI
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:48 AM   #4
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https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com has some great information as well as the 3 products mentioned above by ziggy that will truly reduce road noise via CCF+MLV. I can't repeat enough that Dynamat alone will not reduce your road noise, it is to reduce resonance and add mass. You need to add mass, decouple the surface, and then add a noise blocker such as MLV(heavy).
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:34 AM   #5
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I'm not the belt and suspenders type. Debated ccf+mlv but would rather spend the time and money on audio instead. Ended up going with Stinger Roadkill Expert (butyl rubber variant). Doubled up the inner and outer door panels. Turned out to be easily one of my most favorite mods. That coupled with better tires killed a lot of the vibration and unwanted noise for me.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:48 AM   #6
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Also remember it's not particularly conducive to performance in a car like an STI. Maybe it won't make a huge difference in a 400hp/900lbft diesel truck, but it could add a lot of weight and be a noticeable difference in a relative feather like an STI
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpoop View Post
Also remember it's not particularly conducive to performance in a car like an STI. Maybe it won't make a huge difference in a 400hp/900lbft diesel truck, but it could add a lot of weight and be a noticeable difference in a relative feather like an STI
Good point. You want to add weight in places where it will make a difference. I have seen shops line people's entire trunk with a deadener material, literally every square inch, which is a massive waste of money and it adds fair amount of weight to the car. General rule I use is about 30℅ to 40℅ of surface should be covered with deadener and I bump places as I install to listen for resonance. That is all you need typically to get all the benefit. Obviously, put a fair amount right around the speaker and behind it.

CCF and MLV, doors are a good place to start. Trunk is another good area as well as wheel arches in the back. I have also considered doing a layer in the wheel wells in the front to block some of the road noise but haven't had time to look into it. OEMs do it to cut the tire roar. I haven't done the floor but that will also make a difference.

You will be amazed how much of a difference there is once you add deadener alone. It basically makes your speaker more efficient since more energy goes into sound reproduction vs. moving the panel and creating resonance and all sorts of buzzes and rattles.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:46 AM   #8
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What tires are you running? The compound plays a role. After all, those tires are the only thing touching the ground and transferring vibrations.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:53 AM   #9
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What tires are you running? The compound plays a role. After all, those tires are the only thing touching the ground and transferring vibrations.
You also get wind noise from mostly nitrogen with some oxygen thrown in to mix it up

But your point is valid. It is probably easier to swap tired than to insulate the entire car. And noise difference between tires can be huge especially if the tires are worn and not in a good way.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:44 PM   #10
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Lol now it's a decision between changing tires that could be $800+ vs sound deadening the entire car with CLD/CCF/MLV for... maybe less but A LOT of work? Or both eventually lol. I've done everything except the floor and tires.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:41 PM   #11
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I'm not to worried about weight changing how agile the car is. It's my daily not a track car, I don't think I'll notice the extra 40lbs. As for tires, I'm not sure off the top of my head but I know they are wearing evenly..I I've never heard of the ccf or mlv, I'll have to look into that
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:13 PM   #12
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Look here for some more valuable information:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
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Old 11-02-2016, 02:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama View Post
You also get wind noise from mostly nitrogen with some oxygen thrown in to mix it up

But your point is valid. It is probably easier to swap tired than to insulate the entire car. And noise difference between tires can be huge especially if the tires are worn and not in a good way.
I only suggest because my dad had some bad road noise in his Mercedes. Turns out he had those stupid run flat tires that the dealer put on before delivery. He was quick to change and the noise went down significantly.
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Old 11-02-2016, 02:46 PM   #14
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So people who have put MLV in their car, which areas do you think had the most effect? I'd be interested in buying a roll and sticking some in each door, and the trunk, and if I can figure out how to get the headliner off, there too. But I can't see taking the time to remove all the seats and dash and everything to jam a small amount into tight areas. That could take days of assembly/disassembly.

However, if the headliner + trunk + doors = only a slight reduction then forget the whole thing.
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:21 PM   #15
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I am just about to do this to my 2011 impreza hatchback. I have changed the tires and they help a bit but the car is still loud overall. nothing like my bmw. I have searched the threads and seen Dynamat helps big time with our cars. I am planning to do it to the floor, doors and trunk. I am expecting some big benefits based on what I have read from those that did do it!
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtt777 View Post
I am just about to do this to my 2011 impreza hatchback. I have changed the tires and they help a bit but the car is still loud overall. nothing like my bmw. I have searched the threads and seen Dynamat helps big time with our cars. I am planning to do it to the floor, doors and trunk. I am expecting some big benefits based on what I have read from those that did do it!
Read post #2. Dynamat or any other deadener will not help with general noise reduction.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama View Post
Read post #2. Dynamat or any other deadener will not help with general noise reduction.
I disagree. I have personally used dynamat and it has made a HUGE difference in road noise, and that was just by covering the floor.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:45 PM   #18
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Yes. Many have done this and seen a big difference. It will absorb a good bit of road noise.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:48 PM   #19
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I bought a box of Dynamat Extreme, and did the trunk, all doors (inside exterior skin only), under the back seat and the roof of my 15 STi. Had one sheet left over. The difference in the car is night and day. I'd say the order of difference was trunk, doors then roof. Each was pretty substantial though... I'd like to do the full floors if I get the time.

I picked up roadkill for my wife's Crosstrek and would say it's a very similar product and would expect the same results on a WRX/STI.

It's a lot of work, but fairly mindless... Everything comes apart easily. While you've got panels apart you can also start fixing up many of the problems from the "Let's fix those rattles" thread. I didn't do the rear tray, and I'm about to tear into that to fix the rattles. It's getting colder and its starting to drive me a little nuts.

I get that it's not a sound barrier but for what it is, I'm extremely happy with the results. Me and the misses can have a conversation at highway speeds, I can actually hear the radio without cranking up the volume, heck, I regularly participate in conference calls on my way to work. It's no Lexus, but it's significantly better than stock and only added I think about 15lbs if I recall.

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Old 11-03-2016, 06:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsubie View Post
I disagree. I have personally used dynamat and it has made a HUGE difference in road noise, and that was just by covering the floor.
Sure, disagree with science and physics. It's called placebo effect. Every person that actually understands the science behind sound deadening and blocking will tell you what I pointed out. But it is your car, you can do whatever you want. Sound deadening does stop rattles so if that was your main source of noise, sure, that will help. But if you are looking to block external noise from tires or just wind, no, it doesn't do that. The science of sound and how blockers work is very well understood. Don't take offense to this but comparing your experience is like comparing your perception of weather to climate.
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama View Post
Sure, disagree with science and physics. It's called placebo effect. Every person that actually understands the science behind sound deadening and blocking will tell you what I pointed out. But it is your car, you can do whatever you want. Sound deadening does stop rattles so if that was your main source of noise, sure, that will help. But if you are looking to block external noise from tires or just wind, no, it doesn't do that. The science of sound and how blockers work is very well understood. Don't take offense to this but comparing your experience is like comparing your perception of weather to climate.
I'm not arguing the science. I'm saying my personal experience with dynamat has been very satisfying. It was installed in my truck, cutting engine and exhaust noise in half.
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:09 AM   #22
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Dynamat in my car made a MASSIVE difference. Night and day. Well worth the effort. Highly recommend it.
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:26 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsubie View Post
I'm not arguing the science. I'm saying my personal experience with dynamat has been very satisfying. It was installed in my truck, cutting engine and exhaust noise in half.
In the end, perception is reality. If you truly believe it helped, that is essentially missing accomplished moment. As much as I am about science, if the person is convinced it works.....it works for them. I will be the first one to acknowledge that. Enjoy it, and I not being wise. I mean it.
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:17 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtt777 View Post
I am just about to do this to my 2011 impreza hatchback. I have changed the tires and they help a bit but the car is still loud overall. nothing like my bmw. I have searched the threads and seen Dynamat helps big time with our cars. I am planning to do it to the floor, doors and trunk. I am expecting some big benefits based on what I have read from those that did do it!
Hatch recommendations:
1. Double up on the doors. This means inner and outer panels.
2. Seal the door. This means trying to prevent air from escaping through all the little holes - even the speaker baffle. This will improve audio tremendously. Remember to place some material above and below lock wire but leaving enough play to lock/unlock the doors.
3. Do the rear hatch area -- focus on all the metal parts underneath the spare and false floor. The interior part of the hatch door helps as well. I had a 1000W RMS sub setup, so adding damping to my rear license plate and license plate cover helped too.
4. Skip the quarter panels. Not much benefit there.
5. Floors optional, it's not going to buy you much unless you do your homework on the material and use two -- like MLV and carpet padding, etc.

To your other point - You're looking at it from a wrong perspective. You're never going to get BMW type silence in an Impreza (arguably, even a Subie). Different drive train, different engine, different animal. What you can do is improve things. Like I said above: doors + tires make a massive difference. Trunk is gravy. Floor, quarter panel and headliner is a waste of time and money and has been debunked in various magazines/sites. Don't get me wrong, there is benefit, but the reduction in NV is minimal at best and varies by car. The benefit provided versus the amount of material+work required makes it not worth it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drpoop View Post
So people who have put MLV in their car, which areas do you think had the most effect? I'd be interested in buying a roll and sticking some in each door, and the trunk, and if I can figure out how to get the headliner off, there too. But I can't see taking the time to remove all the seats and dash and everything to jam a small amount into tight areas. That could take days of assembly/disassembly.

However, if the headliner + trunk + doors = only a slight reduction then forget the whole thing.
See above. Doors = Huge. Hatchback: doors + hatch = Huger. Sedan: Doors + trunk = eh, probably just okay with just the doors. Everything else is a diminishing return.

Last edited by El Wray; 11-03-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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