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Old 11-29-2009, 10:41 PM   #1
CoolRex
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Default Valve lashing

I am setting the valve lash on my 04 WRX heads. I have sti cams in them and will be using a forged piston 2.5L block with a GT35r turbo.

Lots and lots of searching has left me confused. Mick the ginge says he uses .008" intake and .010" exhaust clearance. A very well know Subaru Master Tech has told me to use .020mm intake and .035mm exhaust which calculates out to .008" and about .014" exhaust.

What should I do to get the quietest combo that I can get? The valvetrain is very noisy and when I checked the clearances they are all over the place (loose and tight). I just want them to make the most performance they can while being as quiet as possible.

Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:45 PM   #2
john 1badSTI
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I agree with mick you should shoot for .008 int and .010 exh +/- .002 and you should be quiet and get the maximum performance out of the cams.
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:01 PM   #3
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it's all about you exhaust valve material and cams. Both of them right. One give you clearances for aftermarket valve-train and another for OEM.
You would not have noise if you go with either. It's always better to be on the loose side. However if I were you I would set them at 0.008" and 0.012"

Good Luck,
Artie
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:03 PM   #4
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Thanks. Now I just to find a set of feeler gauges that go .005 - .014ish in .001 increments! Can't find them at any of the parts stores so I may have to order from Matco. If anyone knows where I can get a set of feeler gauges for a decent price at or near the .005" - .014" range in .001" increments let me know!
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:05 PM   #5
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Hmmmm well everything is stock WRX 2.0L stuff with the exception of 2.5L STi cams.

So here we have conflicting info yet again. What would be your reasonings for the greater exhaust clearance than what Mick and others (Ron at Raw uses .008 and .010 as well)?
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:13 PM   #6
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Did not mean to confuse you. I use 0.010 (exhaust side)on all aftermarket cams. And I use 0.012 (exhaust side) on stock OEM cams.
Hope this helps.

Artie

Last edited by Agile Auto; 11-29-2009 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:35 PM   #7
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I've always done 0.008" intake regardless of valve or cam. I usually run 0.010" exhaust but 0.009", 0.011", 0.012", 0.013", 0.014" all work.
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:45 AM   #8
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What's the main reasoning for running .010", .011", .012", .013", 0.014" on exhaust with OEM STi cams? Is there any benefit to running it tighter (.010") vs a little looser (.012")?
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:33 PM   #9
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I also use .008 int and .01 exh. I've learned the hard way that incorrect valve lash causes fun stuff to go on.

I have bc cams and they recommend .006 int and .008 exh. I feel that is too tight and will run oem spec.
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:06 PM   #10
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Sorry to interject with valve newbness, but did you have to change any of the buckets to run those sti cams?
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:08 PM   #11
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Yes I'm going to have to change some of them. How many is yet to be known as I haven't lashed them. I just got the tool today from NAPA so I'll measure them all precisely tonight and see how many of my buckets I can salvage.
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Old 11-30-2009, 07:54 PM   #12
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too loose will damage the buckets, too tight can possibly burn valves.

Loose means less power because you make the cam smaller in both duration and lift
Tight means quite and more power because the cam is larger.

8 and 10 for solid cams
8 and 12 for hollow cams seems to do the trick.

all are +/- 0.001"
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason miller View Post
Sorry to interject with valve newbness, but did you have to change any of the buckets to run those sti cams?
04WRX comes with shimless buckets which are the same as the STi. Shimless buckets are always the recommended route as they are much more reliable in high rpm applications.

He will need to change the buckets that are worn or do not yield the proper lash. Using new buckets is always recommended, but I've re used buckets on my own engines on many occasions. A proper, thorough inspection is important. Check for dimples in the center of the bucket or uneven wear patterns. Don't forget to check the side of the bucket in addition to the top. the side does a lot of work as well. Scored buckets should be replaced and the head should be lightly buffed to ensure it's smooth for the next bucket.
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:29 PM   #14
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I think I'm gonna go .008" and .011". I can reuse more buckets that way. My intake is dead on minus one bucket. Exhaust I got .011 on 3 of them. The others I'll have to replace. I had to mix and match and swap buckets all around but thanks to a handy excel spreadsheet that made it easy.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:37 AM   #15
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dont mean to sound like a dumb newb, but how do you set the lash with the buckets? set the cams in the heads and measure with a feeler gauge. if you have to change a bucket for a different thickness to get the desired lash, do you have to remove the cam and swap them out or is there a easier way for this. I will be doing this soon and This would help alot!
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaironsti View Post
dont mean to sound like a dumb newb, but how do you set the lash with the buckets? set the cams in the heads and measure with a feeler gauge. if you have to change a bucket for a different thickness to get the desired lash, do you have to remove the cam and swap them out or is there a easier way for this. I will be doing this soon and This would help alot!
You have it right
Put the cam in, measure the clearance between the back side of the cam lobes and the buckets, write them all down.
Pull the cams out, pull the buckets out, and use a micrometer to measure the bucket thicknesses
Using the actual clearance and actual thickness you measured, calculate the required thickness to get your desired clearance
At this point you should have 16 bucket thicknesses that you need, if you can re-use some of your buckets (with rearranging of course) then you can, and the rest you have to order at $18/ea.
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:45 AM   #17
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this is what I figured. Also, any chance you can do this with the heads on the bench and not bolted to the motor? sorry if this sounds ridiculous. thx
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:18 AM   #18
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No reason you can't do it on the bench.
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:37 AM   #19
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Do NOT do it on the bench. Mine were vastly different after they were bolted down.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:17 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolRex View Post
Do NOT do it on the bench. Mine were vastly different after they were bolted down.
Right
Your clearances will all change once you torque the head on the motor, so you need to do your measuring then.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:27 AM   #21
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Yeah mine changed as much as .003" in many places. And when you do them don't simply hand tighten the cam caps. You 'HAVE' to tq them to the right specs (14 ft/lbs for inside caps and 7 ft/lbs for the cap at the gear).

Hand tqing the caps can change the values another .002". That was my second mistake. First mistake was bench clearancing them.

I've learned A LOT this month!
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:11 AM   #22
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what did you valve lash sound like?
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:22 AM   #23
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Like loose valve buckets. Tick tick tick tick tick. LOUD. At first thought it was injector tick.
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:27 AM   #24
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Is it noticable when blooping the throttle too or heavy accelerating?
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:29 AM   #25
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It's noticeable at idle and any other time engine is running.
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