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Old 06-03-2002, 01:07 AM   #1
ImpresiveWRX
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Default The most power increase for $800

I have a my00 rs with only one engine mod. a home brew cold air intake. I got about $800 to blow on upgrading. Any suggestions on what to get for the most power?
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Old 06-03-2002, 01:47 AM   #2
HndaTch627
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Cobb NA/Turbo Cams
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Old 06-03-2002, 01:53 AM   #3
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Full exhaust system, (Headers, High flow CAT, midpipe, muffler)
The cams won’t react as good without the right flow through the engine.
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Old 06-03-2002, 02:45 AM   #4
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MRT full exhaust + pulleys comes out to around $800
Worth about 15hp+ or so...
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:48 AM   #5
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the MRT full exhaust is priced at $600??!!!
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Old 06-03-2002, 02:20 PM   #6
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The cams definetly. EJs' have so mild cams. Cobb according to their web page have very nice ones. I'd love the more aggressive ones than the spicy cams or what are they called. Somebody said to me: Changing cams isn't worth it, if there is no sacrifice on the lower RPM. Well

What's the RPM limit on EJ25? If I remember correctly it's somewhere like 7000 and the peak power from the stock is at 5600?! If so there is a lot of RPM's to use. Power is proportional to the RPM. The problem is to get the torque to the higher RPM...
Cams are great for it.



tony
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Old 06-03-2002, 04:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Burnout
Full exhaust system, (Headers, High flow CAT, midpipe, muffler)
The cams won’t react as good without the right flow through the engine.
then explain to me why the cams make the biggest wheel HP increase over your intake/header back system

the spicy cams are NOT to be used in a car that does not have some kind of engine management, they move the peak power up by 500 rpm and you'll need to do valvetrain work and also get a re-mapped ecu.

the stock RS valvetrain will float @ 7200 RPM

Just my $.02

jeremy
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Old 06-03-2002, 07:14 PM   #8
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Front and rear strut tower bars, bigger rear sway bar, and solid swaybar endlinks. Maybe even stonger sway bar mounts. Get the handling nailed down first, so you can handle the power you add later.

But, if you already have handling/suspension mods, and just want power/performance stuff: proECM, short shifter, exhaust (not even going to suggest one, but I do like my Stomung), K&N or Amsoil filter.
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:39 PM   #9
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Tighten the nut behind the wheel.

NC
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Old 06-03-2002, 11:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by dcrawford
Tighten the nut behind the wheel.

NC
Yup...most people forget that one. Too bad the majority of the nuts out there are still loose.
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Old 06-04-2002, 03:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by rupteur7000
the MRT full exhaust is priced at $600??!!!
$560 I thought, not including shipping
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Old 06-04-2002, 04:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by dcrawford
Tighten the nut behind the wheel.

NC
that too, gotta fix the loose nut behind the wheel
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Old 06-04-2002, 05:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by tonytiger
The cams definetly. EJs' have so mild cams. Cobb according to their web page have very nice ones. I'd love the more aggressive ones than the spicy cams or what are they called. Somebody said to me: Changing cams isn't worth it, if there is no sacrifice on the lower RPM. Well

What's the RPM limit on EJ25? If I remember correctly it's somewhere like 7000 and the peak power from the stock is at 5600?! If so there is a lot of RPM's to use. Power is proportional to the RPM. The problem is to get the torque to the higher RPM...
Cams are great for it.



tony
Fuel cut happens at 6250, so peak power isn't that far off at 5600.

Most power for $800? Nitrous. But I'd never do it.

I would however like to do cams.
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Old 06-04-2002, 11:10 AM   #14
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A RS buddy of mine is planning to order the Spiceys from Cobb. It is recommended that you raise the redline to take full advantage of those aggressive cams but not mandatory. "Torque peak moves up approximately 600 RPM and Horsepower peaks at the stock redline."

HndaTch627-Please back up this statement "the stock RS valvetrain will float @ 7200 RPM "

IIRC and article or post from Trey Cobb regarding his research on the stock valvetrain was that he determined the stock internals (valvetrain included) would be safe up to about 7500 rpms. He then made a statement along the lines of "I wouldn't go above 7200rpm just to be safe". He also said something about the intake manifold beeing a big hinderance when stretching to those higher rpms. Let me see if I can find that article.
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Old 06-04-2002, 11:17 AM   #15
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If you want the most HP/$ there is simply nothing that beats nitrous. End of story. There are some good kits that have been run for an extended period of time that seems to be reliable as well.
Give it a shot, (pun intended).

/David
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Old 06-04-2002, 12:48 PM   #16
imprezive
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cobb intake and cobb cams
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by MY99 2.5GT
A RS buddy of mine is planning to order the Spiceys from Cobb. It is recommended that you raise the redline to take full advantage of those aggressive cams but not mandatory. "Torque peak moves up approximately 600 RPM and Horsepower peaks at the stock redline."

HndaTch627-Please back up this statement "the stock RS valvetrain will float @ 7200 RPM "

IIRC and article or post from Trey Cobb regarding his research on the stock valvetrain was that he determined the stock internals (valvetrain included) would be safe up to about 7500 rpms. He then made a statement along the lines of "I wouldn't go above 7200rpm just to be safe". He also said something about the intake manifold beeing a big hinderance when stretching to those higher rpms. Let me see if I can find that article.
do me a favor put those spicy cams in and then spin it that high...i'd like to see what happens you guys are forgetting that this is a LONG stroke motor, you MUST take rod speed into account. but then agian i'm not trey cobb so i know nothing about subaru's
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:52 PM   #18
CosmoTheCat
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I think he's banking on people upgrading lots of other bits internally (heads, valvetrain, pistons, rods, etc) if they're going to bother raising the rev limiter. Or at least, it used to be somewhat cost-prohibitive for the average joe to do so (standalone ecu used to be the only way, no? But now apparently we've got people reprogramming stuff four a couple hundred bucks).

Anyway, I'm going to avoid the spicy. Who knows... I may feel rich some day and actually shell out for forced induction.
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Old 06-04-2002, 03:30 PM   #19
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Mrt full exhaust if you plan to stay naturally aspirated because of it's ease of installation.

Cobb mild cams get you 14 Hp on a STOCK engine and with a full exhaust and intake more power can be had. I still suggest exhaust/intake first. Just because they are easy to install. IIRC the mrt full exhaust made 14 Hp over stock too.

If you plan on going Forced Induction then keep saving.

-Chav
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Old 06-04-2002, 06:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by dcrawford
Tighten the nut behind the wheel.

NC
Alright, now where is this? Steering wheel or wheel well? I'm one of them who hasn't done it. Thanks.
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Old 06-04-2002, 06:20 PM   #21
Reciprocity
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Quote:
Originally posted by kickin_81


Alright, now where is this? Steering wheel or wheel well? I'm one of them who hasn't done it. Thanks.
It's easiest to see when you angle the rear view mirror towards the drivers seat.

NC
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Old 06-04-2002, 06:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by kickin_81


Alright, now where is this? Steering wheel or wheel well? I'm one of them who hasn't done it. Thanks.
"You've just been n00b-ed.
Attached Images
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Old 06-04-2002, 06:43 PM   #23
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Quote:
then explain to me why the cams make the biggest wheel HP increase over your intake/header back system
Calm down, its all right

What I ment was that the cams will not produce as much power compared with a car that had a full exhuast sytem and intake.
I didn't say that a full exhuast would make more power than cams.
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Old 06-05-2002, 10:00 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by obyone


"You've just been n00b-ed.
Great... I went up to the homeplate for the team and struck out. Someone had to make a stand.
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Old 06-05-2002, 11:05 AM   #25
jasona
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Quote:
Originally posted by proecm
If you want the most HP/$ there is simply nothing that beats nitrous. End of story. There are some good kits that have been run for an extended period of time that seems to be reliable as well.
Give it a shot, (pun intended).

/David
yes, i have it, and i can take down stock wrx's, its close against wrx's with intake and exhaust. its fun, try it!

of course i would MUCH rather have that much power n/a or turbo/super. but theres no way i would have got that much power gains that cheaply without nitrous.
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