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Old 08-20-2016, 02:10 AM   #1
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758

Starting a little something here to chronicle the evolution of my car from this point onwards. This is the NASIOC version which won't be updated nearly as much as the original on iwsti.

LINK TO ORIGINAL BUILD THREAD HERE - MORE UPDATES

To preface, it all began in 2004 when I picked up my DD for the next 10 years, a 2002 WRB WRX Wagon. The wagon ended up 10 years later with a version 8 swap, sedan front fenders, and taken about as far as I cared into an SM class racer. Life priorities changed, and in 2014 I needed a fullsize truck to build my business. I sold the wagon, and my 1997 Toyota Tacoma, and picked up a 2014 Toyota Tundra which has served me very well over the last two years.

Fast forward two years and the itch I could not scratch has come to the point I could not ignore it any longer, thankfully I had saved some money and was doing well at the time. I began to look for my next Subaru. I knew I wanted it to be Silver, Grey, or White, a Sedan, and either a 02-03 or 06-07. After about four months of searching, I came upon an add for a 2.5i which had a full Sti swap, semi built motor, and a rotated turbo all ready to go, or so I had thought, but the car was in Washington while I live in Hawaii.

I know what you're thinking, that sounds expensive! Well, sort of. For a similar car out here I would be looking to spend $20-24k, and I'm almost guaranteed that it has been trashed. I was looking at this 2.5i swap for $13k, it had an entire build thread, history, and after getting to know the owner better I knew she had been respected. I flew out, and after some minor issues which Pacific Import Auto helped diagnose and fix, I was on the road.

While the car was at PIA I exchanged the turbo for my choice of an EFR 6758, and had it tuned. Driving it felt great, and what I had been missing came flooding back all at once. The car was loud, raw, and I could FEEL the car. I was able to drive it for exactly 2 hours until I had to drop it off at the docks at Matson shipping and head home.

The car should arrive sometime around August 10th, at which point the suspension work and a few other minor things will be put in motion, all of which I will attempt to keep track of here.


Event: Dyno Tune
Location: PIA Tacoma, WA
Ambient Temp: Washington Weather?
Elevation: sea level-ish
Weather: likely Raining
Conditions: Shop
Tires: 225/40/18

Car: 2007 STi
Tuner: Mike @ PIA
Dyno Info: Mustang Dyno
Transmission: Stock w/ LSD's
Gear: 3rd
Peak HP at RPM: Dyno 370whp ~6,070RPM
Peak Torque at RPM: Dyno 359 ~4500RPM
Baseline hp/tq for a stock on same Unknown
Target Boost: 20 psi ( Very conservative tune )
Fuel: Pump 92
Engine/Power Modifications: Engine work done by PIA in Tacoma WA.
New 09+ EJ257 bored 99.75 CP pistons / rings, ACL race bearings, New heads / new oem cams ARP head studs, Gates timing set, P&L FMIC, AEM 3.5bar MAP Sensor, Grimmspeed ECBS, Borg Warner EFR 6758 .64ar v-band, 3" CAI intake, TGV's deleted, 3mm phenolic spacers, Fluidampnr, secondary injection air pump delted, Evap sytem deleted, Garris rotated kit up /down pipe, Tial 38mm EWG @ 1 bar springs, Killer-B Holy Header, Q300 3" exhaust, ID1000cc injectors, Walbro 400 fuel pump Hard Wired, P&L fuel rail kit w/ regulator, SouthBend Stage 2 Clutch, EWG Rerouted to DP



Stoked with the results, and I'm thinking on the street it will be even better. Big thanks to Derek, and Andrew and Mike @ PIA for being awesome, couldn't have done any of this without you guys!


Phase two will involve fully wrapping header/up, and a turbo blanket. Addition of a Garrett Cored AWIC setup in the TMIC location, and probably a cutout with a turn down. Hoping to pick up a few hundred rpm of spool swapping the FMIC, and wrapping the pre-turbo exhaust. Might possibly run some higher octane if I can find it locally too.
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Last edited by Krang; 08-26-2016 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:10 AM   #2
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-6-16
While the car is on the boat and should be arriving 8/10. I'm beginning to prep a few projects that I'm going to tackle before the my first race of the season on 8/14, namely:

- Replace all 4 rotors (Girodisc floating)
- Extended ARP studs if I have time
- New brake pads (hawk hp plus)
- Clearance Pads for Girodisc rotor hats
- New Goodridge Phantom lines
- Completely bleed brakes (ATE Blue)
- Replace all 4 endlinks (Whiteline adjustable)
- Redo Turbo Coolant lines (-an fittings)
- Shipped 8/5, hopefully will be here in time. Not happy with the way they are run now.







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Old 08-20-2016, 02:12 AM   #3
Krang
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-6-16
Also, since it's constantly raining outside and I can't do yard work, I might as well get around to getting the Feal 441 coils ready to go also, this is my third set of Feal 441's and they never cease to please.

These were originally ordered from Odi for a GC I planned on building:

Feal 441 Road Race Specific
14k / 13k swift springs w/ helper springs in the rear to help droop

I need to:
- Change out all 4 tophats for GD Specific versions
- Mooresport Street version in the front
- Feal GD version adjustable rear
- Exchange the 5x100 perches for 5x114 perches

Notes:
- Getting the top nut off the front coils is a pita, but with an impact gun it comes off super easy. I don't see any other way these nuts come off honestly, the allen key size isn't big enough to get proper torque to break them with wrenches.

Rear coils with helper springs:


Rear tophats on and ready to go. I had to take the allen key bolts from the Feal adjustable front tophats and use them here, either the new tophats didn't come with bolts or I lost them. I probably lost them =)


Mooresport front tophats going on. #1:


#2:


Perches took some work to get off but nothing a 12" extension for leverage and a wrench on the end of the spanner won't take care of:


Ready to go:
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:12 AM   #4
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-6-16
Between the 8/14 race and the 8/28 race I'm hoping to get my AWIC system setup, and battery relocated to the trunk. Most everything I need is here already, except for a few electrical components.

AWIC System
I have:
- AWIC ( Custom made, 1000hp Garret AWIC core, TMIC location )
- Reservoir ( 2.5 gal alumimum from frozenboost )
- Heat Exchanger ( type 101 from frozenboost )
- Pump ( Meziere WP136S 20gpm )

On the way:
- Fittings
- Lines
- Relay and Switches
- More gold reflective tape

Fab
- Panel to anchor pump and res
- Bracket to anchor pump to panel
- din sized panel to mount switches
- Bracket for heat exchanger
- Bracket for AWIC

Battery Relocation
I have:
- 4ga premium welding wire, 15' black / red ( for runs to trunk and misc grounding )
- wire ends

Local buy:
- Shorai lfx36l3-bs12 ( Battery Bills )

Need:
- Wire loom for pass-throughs and visible areas
- Distribution block for connections in engine compartment

Fab:
- Battery Bracket for trunk

Going to be a lot of work here but I think it's doable.

My inspiration for the AWIC placement, I think this IC piping is short enough for some good response.


AWIC, ran out of reflective tape in the second pic, more on the way:



Reservoir:


Pump. I need to comment that this thing feels solid as hell, glad I went with this brand. The other option was a Davies Craig pump but they were ABS construction:
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:12 AM   #5
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-9-16
Went to pick up the car today, shes still it one piece! That's good news. It was still early so I started working on some state registration requirements since I was in town.

Before you can register a "modified" car in Hawaii, you need to get RECON ( Reconstructed Vehicle Permit ). This only applies to vehicles which have modified suspension, or heavily modified body. The suspension test involves a hand administered bounce test which most coilovers fail. Since I still have struts on the car I want to get this RECON done before coils go on. Another requirement to get RECON is that the car must have mad an alignment within the past 30 days to manufacturer specs. To me, this is very backwards, if the vehicles suspension is modified the alignment should be modified as well to make for a safe driving experience.

The end of this story is I went and got an alignment which destroyed driveability for the sole purpose of getting this permit. Almost $200 wasted. Yay.

Picking up at the docks:


I had a package waiting for me when I got home from getfast1.com with some goodies I had been awaiting.

Bunch of -12 AN fittings for the AWIC system:


A few -6 AN, and a banjo for the turbo coolant line from the block:


Got busy installing what I could.

Straight cut o-ring to -12 AN on the pump:


Made a -6 AN line for the block to turbo coolant feed, realized I need a proper braided hose cutter if I'm going to do much more of this:



Tomorrow, get the RECON inspection, then off to the Safety inspection, and finally Registration where I will get my Hawaii plates... Never been one for vanity plates but this would be the time.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:13 AM   #6
Krang
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-11-16
Had a good amount of time to put into the car today, not without some challenges though.

Swapped out the Invidia Q300 for my favorite exhaust of all time, Borla Hush. Just the right amount of noise I think, and I can still stealth around if I need to.

Swapped out pads and rotors all around in about an hour, felt like things were going to go swimmingly for the rest of the day. Decided not to embark on replacing the lines and bleeding everything today, I wasn't sure how much time I could dedicate and if I had to leave I didn't want to have the lines/bleeding part way done. I had never changed pads on Brembo's before, I gotta say these are a cakewalk compared to the 2 piece calipers that the early gen WRX's had, and I'm very happy that I get to work with these brakes from now on.

Fronts:


Rears:


Also, I have known that my front endlinks were bad for quite some time. Tackled this next, along with the rears. Didn't take long and I'm really happy with the new adjustable ones. However, the front adjustable links are not able to be adjusted while installed like the rears which really limits their usefulness, it's quite a bit of work to take all that apart just to take the links out a few turns when I eventually corner balance the car and set up the suspension.

Fronts, that lower collar is unable to move independently from the heim joint, so to adjust them I need to remove one end:


Rears:


Went on to tackling the water lines to the turbo......

My idea was I could simply remove the banjo on the head and slip my - 6 AN banjo on. Well, due to it's location I now feel this is something I would only tackle with either a majority of the crap in the vicinity removed, or even better, with the motor out of the car. My hands are toast from getting that one bolt out, and the new banjo in.

New Banjo with the - 8 AN fitting:


I inched my way into getting the stock banjo out for about an hour until I needed to head out for a while, in that hour I hadn't loosened it enough to release coolant so I just cleaned up and left it. Took a shot before I left:



Came back about three hours later, around 5pm, and began again. I removed the turbo oil drain to gain some more access, and dropped the nose of the car down on the jackstands a few spaces to get better visibility. After another two hours, I had it out! ( had I known it would take this long, I could have just removed the turbo and all that jazz ) Unfortunately, it was dark by now and I was in no shape to take pictures. After another hour I had the new banjo in, and by 8pm I had my water lines run and the top overflow tank jerry rigged in a stock-ish location, I will eventually make a bracket and put it on the wheel well I think.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:13 AM   #7
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-13-16
Yesterday I had a chance to get a baseline on my local dyno. Happy with the numbers, they are what I would expect. Both the original tune and my local dyno are Mustang dyno's, so they're very similar.

Local dyno, not sure why the TQ is down on this but I will figure it out:


And my chart overlaid on my EJ207 v8 wagon from 2013:
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:13 AM   #8
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-15-16
So I need to get rolling on the AWIC and get things wrapped up so I can get the car registered. I can't pass a safety inspection with the front mount so this is a priority at the moment.

Took a few minutes to try and layout the reservoir, and pump in my trunk. I knew I wanted to mount both the res and the pump on a platform so I could easily take them out if I needed to, also to isolate vibration and noise as much as possible.

This was my first shot, on the drivers side of the trunk.


Looking at it in there though gave me an idea. They looked like they both might fit well in the spare tire well, and that would serve double duty by lowering my CG. Gave that a shot.


Perfect! Even has space for my battery. Best part of all this is that the reservoir is the same height as the floor now, so I can cut out a hole in my spare tire cover and it will rest perfectly on the top of the reservoir. Nice clean install. I can even use the spare tire hold-down as my main fastening point for easy removal.

Fitted some cardboard to the area and laid everything out where I wanted, next step will be take the template and components over to my fabricator and see what we can accomplish. I think it should all be fairly straight forward. I'm hoping that I can also fit my circuit breaker for the battery and some other wiring neatly in this area so simplify install.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:14 AM   #9
Krang
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

Default

8-19-2016
Fabricator got back to me with some fun stuff today!

A little side note, Wednesday while very casually mocking up my AWIC I noticed that it was about 3/4" too large, took out the sharpie and started marking things up and took that over to the fabricator as well.

I now have:

- AWIC which fits!
- Mounting plate for Res, Pump, and Battery in the spare tire location made out of 1/4" aluminum for rigidity. I'm going to attempt to only use one bolt in the center to hold all this down, and hoping the resulting pressure on the edges keeps everything tight.


Layout of the spare tire well currently:


I'm really close to the edge here:


Pump mounts directly to the base from underneath in this location:


Battery and hold down that was fabbed:



Designed this so I can still put a trunk liner down on top of it to retain the usage of my trunk! the level says I know how to read a tape which is great!:


I'm going to cut out a circle for the res cap, should look pretty cool hangin out in the middle of the trunk floor. The cap is nice, thick aluminum so I'm not worried about it getting damaged, and it will make access to the res easy:


This was about 12.5" wide when we started, the throttle body side was cut down slightly to gain the first 3/4" and then the pipe connection was shortened another 3/4" leaving just enough room to correctly clamp with a t-bolt clamp:

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Old 08-20-2016, 02:14 AM   #10
Krang
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

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Some other measurements because it might be useful to someone, this thing fits with no problems now, it's actually a lot more narrow than a stock intercooler:






My challenge is going to be clocking the turbo correctly to clear the strut tower for minimal bends in the charge pipe, but I think I have a way.

This weekend I hope to get this system all buttoned up, so more updates to come.
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Old 08-26-2016, 06:04 AM   #11
Krang
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
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2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

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Picked up the raw bottom plate and battery hold down yesterday, spent a few hours laying out everything and drilling. Also tapped the 1/4" base plate for the battery tie down screws, I did this so I didn't have to remove the whole plate to remove the battery. Using a M6 1.0 tap I figure 1/4" of thread should be enough with the force spread out over two bolts per side.

How everything sits in the spare tire compartment:


Better lighting here:


Battery hold down is super solid, the Shorai battery comes with some neoprene foam with a sticker back which I used to pad all the contact areas, provides a tight but soft fit:


Fittings and hardline to pump from res:


Going to be running bulkhead fittings through the side of the spare tire compartment and then run water lines under the car. I couldn't find a good path for the 3/4" ID lines to run inside the car, should make for a nice clean install too. Planning to run them down the drivers side frame rail.
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Old 08-26-2016, 06:05 AM   #12
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

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Spent the evening getting the AWIC all situated.

- Cut up some leftover FMIC piping to make a connector from the turbo to AWIC, dropped that off at the welder

- test fit the heat exchanger, actually fits really well with the bumper beam back in. I'm going to eventually make a frame to mount it to that will attach to the back of the bumper beam. However, because I'm pressed on time now, I will be trying to attach it directly to the bumper beam or with some very simple bracketry.

Test Fit:


Clearance:


Bumper clearance is good, need to trim a tad though:


Plumbing side clearance leaves something to be desired, I might have to take a small bit out of the bumper beam so the hose doesn't end up rubbing on anything:
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Old 08-26-2016, 06:06 AM   #13
Krang
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Member#: 134272
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
Vehicle:
2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

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Today couldn't have been much more productive. Really happy about that as I want a day to shake down systems before Race 3 this Sunday.

Welder got my turbo to AWIC connection back to me, it's not perfect and eventually I will take proper measurements and have a perfect piece made (probably out of pie cuts since the compound angle is really tight). This certainly works for now though.



I fabbed up a much more simple and equally as strong bracket system for the heat exchanger. Once I put some supports on the bottom of it, it will be rock solid. As it is, I can't move it at all and it would probably be fine, but there are threaded holes on the bottom of the radiator support and I might as well use them for something. I might someday end up building the frame I was thinking about but for now this will do. Made fully out of aluminum with stainless hardware (lots of salt in the air out here and mild metal just doesn't cut it).


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Old 08-26-2016, 06:06 AM   #14
Krang
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: HIIC
Location: Kahaluu, Hawaii
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2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

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Bulkhead fittings for the spare tire well thruholes came in yesterday so I got that area all setup first before I ran lines under the car. Step-bits are awesome and everyone should have one, all I gotta say. The routing looks kind of funky but my goal was to avoid kinks and keep everything contained within the spare tire well. I believe I accomplished my goal.


Three bulkhead fittings, -12 AN Feed, -12 AN Return, -10AN drain.




Under the car, the drain is the fitting without a hose on it, I didn't see a need to attach one unless I'm missing something.



Routed under the rear axle, between the T-Bar and the body, and then up and over the T-Bar, then down along the drivers side of the car.




Stainless steel hose clamps, and self tapping screws here to hold the hoses against the body.



Fittings for the heat exchanger would have came in contact with a small tab on the bumper beam, so that had to go. (shiny area on the beam). Fits like a glove now.




Everything is plumbed, and the hood closes, success!



I had to run an errand at this point, and by the time I got back it was dark. I have a headlamp though so that didn't stop me working, but it did stop me taking pictures.

- Ran 4ga + and - wire from engine bay to trunk for battery relocation

- Ran signal wires from center console to trunk for AWIC pump switch relay + loom

- Zip tie cable organized wires leading into the spare tire well, I will take pics of this tomorrow. Saw this on lifehacker once and it is just awesome, I would suggest googling it if you don't know what I'm talking about.

- Reinstalled door sill trim and B-pillar trim

- Filled reservoir and primed the AWIC system. I'm thinking there MUST be some air trapped in the AWIC since it's the highest point in the system, I need to figure out a way to burp it so I make sure I'm getting the whole core cooled evenly for best efficiency. Also noticed the water pump is loud, but I don't think I will be able to hear it over the screams of passengers so were all good.


Tomorrow will be all about buttoning up the wiring, and some driving while monitoring intake temps via my AP since I don't have the coin right now to drop on sensors. I do want to set them up someday though.

- Inline 100a breaker on battery + wire to engine bay
- Wire AWIC pump relay
- Wire Switch in center console
- Loom on everything in the trunk
- Affix battery charger to something in the trunk for ease of access
- Do one charge cycle on battery
- Remove battery up front and connect trunk battery
- Pray
- Drive if prayer worked

If those get done in a decent span of time I will also get the car RECON, Safety, and Registered tomorrow. I REALLY need to get this done so I can do suspension work and fix my alignment, it's just all wrong for the way the car is setup but I can't change it until I get the car legal.
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:17 AM   #15
Krang
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

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So..... more rain. Worked on and off Friday afternoon, got some small stuff done but today was more productive. Still rainy but I could devote the whole day.

Here was my list:
- Inline 100a breaker on battery + wire to engine bay Done!
- Wire AWIC pump relay Done!
- Wire Switch in center console Done!
- Loom on everything in the trunk Done!
- Affix battery charger to something in the trunk for ease of access Not done, will do Monday
- Do one charge cycle on battery Sunday Night
- Remove battery up front and connect trunk battery Done!
- Pray Done!
- Drive if prayer worked Initial fail, 100amp breaker was tripped.

Doesn't look terribly pretty, but here is the setup in the trunk. After taking this picture the main breaker was moved to the side of the battery because when the trunk floor was put in, sometimes it would inadvertently trip the breaker making for not fun times.


Trimed hole in trunk floor for easy access, probably going to remake the trunk floor with something a little more robust. I recall my wagon trunk floor having a support bar in it, I'm going to try and source one of them.


Carpet in:


My initial impressions are that the AWIC keeps intake temps more consistent overall. While the car was warming up I thought my IAT sensor was broken because the temp didn't move at all. Once I started driving I could see very minimal movement on the AP, but not the large swings like I would see with the FMIC.

The response is absolutely more crisp. I mash the pedal and there is no delay whatsoever, which will make tomorrows race much more fun I think. Also, I think the turbo is building boost faster than the motor can ingest it right now as I blew off the charge pipe twice during spoolup, I really cranked it on there and re-clocked the turbo to get out a small kink, and I don't think it's going to happen again... but, there was certainly some spool gained. We will see at the end of September, PDX tuning is coming out here and I will retune with the new AWIC, and a few other bits, on a slightly more aggressive tune.

When I blew off the charge pipe I noticed that there was some oil in the intake, my Crawford (yuck) AOS had no home since the pitchstop area was now taken and I had left it at around 60 degrees, obviously big mistake. I did some ziptie mechanic stuff and now it sits relatively straight, I guess we will see how long the zipties last directly above the turbo. Sometime in the future I will pick up a IAG AOS and mount it on the strut tower, possibly before the tune.

I'm also not happy with how things are organized around the turbo, when I take everything apart to wrap the headers, up, and dp, I'm going to re-organize that area. It's just too cramped.

Lastly, I think my next area of focus in the motor department is going to be venting the hood. It gets very warm in there, and some good venting would go a long way is alleviating that. Singular motorsports louvers will be the ticket I think.

Next week's list will be:

- Get the car legal on Monday
- Start swapping suspension and bushings
- Swap driveshaft
- Get a real alignment
- Shakedown driving
- Probably disconnect the rear sway bar, we will see.
- Fine tune the coils as much as I can without a course
- Wrap Headers, up, and dp, turbo blanket
- Order hood louvers
- Start planning for flares
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:58 AM   #16
goswald79
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Location: Atlantic Beach, FL
Vehicle:
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Sonic Yellow

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Very nice build. I have been considering a AWIC for my car. I will definitely come back to this thread as a reference. They are supposed to be way better at maintaining a median temperature with prolonged use.
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Old 08-29-2016, 01:44 AM   #17
Krang
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2007 Sti, UGM
Rotated EFR 6758

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It was MUCH slower to heat soak during my AutoX today, and if I added a few fans to the front of the heat exchanger and let them run in grid I bet my temps would stay fairly low.

I went from IAT temps ( reading from Cobb AP ) on the first run at 120 to IAT temps on my 4th run at 150, at this point the water in the res wasn't too hot to touch, but it was very warm.

Other cooling additions such as hood vents will help a lot too I think, right now I'm running an RS hood with no vents what so ever and things get very toasty under there.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:50 AM   #18
Krang
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In the midst of two hurricanes I have managed to squeeze in a few hours to work on the car...

Having done all of these suspension mods once REALLY helped things move quickly. I will try and give pointers for a few of the trouble areas that I always encounter.

Passengers side complete. Whiteline roll center kit, whiteline front control arm rear caster adding offset bushing, and front control arm front bushing all pressed in and installed. I actually guessed how the caster adding offset bushing in the rear was supposed to sit, I wasn't so lucky with the drivers side and had to take that back to the machine shop and have it re-pressed into the correct position. I had all these bushings pressed in probably a year ago and didn't have a car to mock it up on at the time. Having a jack handy to bring up one side of the suspension to equalize tension on the endlinks is always handy:



Tackling the rear trailing arms and lateral links was something I really wasn't looking forward to. Last time I did this area I ended up scrapping the entire rear knuckle due to the 8" long bolt becoming completely frozen. This time, I prepped all the bolts for two days with penetrating oil, and went right in with my 345 ft-lbs electric impact. Those bolts didn't stand a chance. I guess not having suffered through 10 years of Utah winters, salt, and sand, like my wagon helped a bit too.

Blew through most of the hardware around the knuckle easily enough after my pre-soaking. Getting to the inner lateral links hardware was a different story. However, I remembered that if I jacked up the knuckle ( or if it was detached simply held up the axle ) I could get my breaker bar in there. In no time I had the passengers side ready to go. MSI trailing arms with heim joint front bushings, and SPC lateral links ( had truhart before with no problems, and these are a much higher quality from what I can tell ), all installed. Also, the bracket that is supplied with the lateral links allows me to rotate it horizontally so I can align my rear sway parallel with the lateral links after adjusting my endlink to compensate. I believe this will allow me much more control over how the rear loads in corners, and if I adjust everything correctly I can possibly avoid having to disconnect my rear bar to combat inner wheel lift in corners. Time will tell:


Very small bummer about the MSI trailing arms is that there are no provisions to attach the ABS sensor or parking brake, but I have some easy solutions for those which I will get to once everything is installed:


Of course once I got on a roll it started raining, and it was quickly getting dark. I'm going to attempt to finish up the drivers side lateral links in the morning and get the car back on it's wheels before hurricane Lester hits, just in case I need to move it for some reason. Either way, it's looking like my weekend is going to be completely shot for working on the car thanks to Lester, but we will see.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:51 AM   #19
Krang
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I got a good 6 hours in today and finished up just about everything I had slated for this next race.

Accomplished:
- Drivers side lateral links
- Attachment for ABS sensor's
- Swapped in the Feal 441 coilovers
- Removed the rear seatbelts
- Swapped in my DSS CF Driveshaft
- Transmission carrier bushings ( not the trans mount, the bushings in the carrier )
- Installed a replica lip I had laying around from a good friend, actually really like the look of it =)

Drivers side lateral links installed, I had some sears points so I picked up some large sized closed ended wrenches ( all I had previously were gear wrenches ) so get some better torque on the bolts, definitely did the trick:


Attachment for ABS Sensors, zip ties ftw!


Coils going in, super easy install. Drivers Rear, Drivers Front, Pass Rear, Pass Front:







Driveshaft going in. The bolts that come with the driveshaft are M10 I believe, and I had to drill out the rear diff axle holes. Took it really slowly and did it in two steps with slightly larger bits each time, ezpz. Can use all the stock covers and shields with it too, nice piece:



Trans carrier bushings were fast and easy. Jack up the trans, unbolt everything, replace bushings, reinstall.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Got everything cleaned up and went for a short drive to feel if I had missed anything. Of course theres always something....

#1- During left turns I get a clicking from the right side of the car, it's almost surely the rear axle I think. It sounds as if it coincides with the rotation of the tire, not the driveshaft, so I will take a look in the morning. I made sure to set the lateral links to the stock lengths before I installed them, however, combined with the 2" correction of the MSI trailing arms it might have pulled the knuckle out just far enough to be a problem.

#2- Also, as I was on my way back home, the car took a giant crap on itself and went into limp mode. Threw two CEL's: P0122, P0222 (Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A/B Circut Low Input) seems like this won't be too difficult to solve, I guess starting at the pedal switch and working back from there would be the best way. I reset my codes and started the car right back up with no problems, still going to investigate.


Aside from those two things, it's like a night and day difference. The car feels like it's on rails, and even with it's surely craptastic alignment right now turn in is good. I didn't really get on it because of issue #1, but once I get that looked at tomorrow I will take it for a good drive and try and break things. Overall, very happy with how everything sounds and feels. Also super stoked to be just about done with the mechanical and suspension bits on the car. Now I can focus on some minor interior bits, and planning out the Karlton flares and my wheel/tire setup.

Coming up next will be:
Interior
- 330mm Steering Wheel
- Sparco Evo2 Driver/Passenger seats w/ Buddy Club Sliders
- Moving around some gauges, possibly a multi-gauge to take the place of the Defi's
- Harness Bar
- Solid mounting the AP and a mount for my phone for Harry's Lap Timer

Exterior
- Karlton Flare's
- Need panel adhesive
- Need Wheels / Tires for fitment Enkei RPF1 18x10.5, Federal FZ-201 (if some things come through, possible sponsor) or Hoosier A7 315/30/18
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:31 AM   #20
kongzilla
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This is amazing.
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Old 09-06-2016, 03:53 AM   #21
Krang
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Thanks! It's just going to get better hopefully! I should have some good video here on the 18th at the next race.

Figured out what the sound was, I must have bumped one of my rotor dust shields just enough to make it rub when I turned. Bent is back out and I was good to go.

Setting up an alignment sometime this week possibly, or, I may wait a week and corner balance first, then alignment, we will see.

I'm going to ask in the Karlton thread also, but how can I keep my wheel liners once I cut out for the flares? I really do need them as where I live in very wet sometimes.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:23 AM   #22
Krang
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Occams Razor strikes again, the clicking was simply my front dust shields rubbing against the slotted rotors slightly. Bent them out of the way and all fixed! Whenever I get around to doing the brake lines I think I'm going to cut them off, I'm really not a fan.

As far as the pedal sensor, seems were all good for now. However, I did experience an odd throttle blip while idling with my foot off the pedal, that would really be no fun if it happened in traffic. Still investigating this.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:23 AM   #23
Krang
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Got a few hours in this evening and got around to doing something I really wasn't looking forward to doing, but that needed to be done.

Titanium Exhaust wrap all the things, and reflective tape on the intake parts / AWIC. Really hope this will help my under-hood temps. Without any venting it gets VERY hot in there, and I've seen coolant temps reach 215-220F in traffic. Hood vents are on the docket but this is a step in the right direction.

While dissembling everything I discovered that the Crawford AOS is a POS. Big suprise there. Oil all over the place in my intake tract. While this does suck, it gives me an excuse to move up my time table on purchasing an IAG comp unit. In the interim I simply put the main breather for the AOS into an orange juice bottle so it can crap everything out in there instead of my turbo, and capped off the vacuum port on the intake:



While assembling everything back again I managed to put a GIANT F'KING DENT IN MY CAR! I blame my skiers legs, they owned my fender hard. The small reverse dent you see was my attempt to pop it back out. I don't think I have a future in auto body repair:


While not AS itchy as the normal fiberglass stuff, the titanium lava wrap still gets you. My hands are fairly rough and I still have a few places that itch between my fingers, but I got the job done. Glad I only need to do this once. Got everything put back together and took the car for a spin, the titanium wrap smells bad when it's "burning in" or whatever it does. I kept getting looks at stoplights because of the large amounts of smoke coming from my hood lol:






Very happy this is done with, and I believe it is actually the last power mod I need to do before my follow up tune at the end of September. Still debating on the cutout, I'm not sure I will have much to gain with it, but making noise is always fun.
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Old 09-16-2016, 07:54 AM   #24
Krang
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Exciting day today. Seats came in, and one set of wheels came in. I'm going to hold off on pics of those until tomorrow or Saturday when they get installed.

Today though, I received a Works Bell steering wheel hub boss so I can finally get my new wheel on!

The wheel is a Nardi 330mm, what it looks like really isn't important I just wanted the small wheel for faster movements.

Part of this process is to modify the hub boss in order to retain my cruise control functions. This serves two purposes: Firstly, I apparently need it for DCCD to operate correctly. And secondly, it adjusts my FFS and LC settings when I need it to. It was also a fun little project so here's a little overview.

Trim boss cover to fit cruise control module:



Trim cruise control module to fit inside boss:


Trim hub core so that there are channels for the zip ties to secure onto:


Zip-tie mechanic, pro-level, the cruise control module:


Test Fit, and secure:




3ohm resistors in the airbag connectors:


Stick it all back together, and lookin good:


I have an alignment tomorrow, and maybe get some time to install the seats also. Then, Saturday setup the harness bar and harnesses and I should be good to go for Race #4 on Sunday. Woot!
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:01 PM   #25
Krang
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Got the car aligned last week before the race, worked damn well too! Time to get used to the new setup.



Also, saw a RS parked outside =)



I have some video of the event I will eventually get around to posting once I combine a few clips.
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