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Old 06-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #1
txl146
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Default DIY: trailing arm bushings (1 piece Energy Suspension and 2 piece Super Pro)

Here is how to install 1 piece Polyurethane front trailing arm bushings (w/o sleeve) without using the press. Took me total ~20 min to install both bushings.

Things you need:
- Energy suspension 1 piece "RED" bushing w/ grease. Grease that comes with Energy suspension is really sticky and is not easy to clean...
- Tools painted in black are part of front bearing replacement kit I purchased from Harbor freight for $80.
- You should be able to source similar tools from Home Depot...

Energy suspension bushing is probably 100x stiffer than stock bushings.






Replace the bottom flat plate with another one with flushed center once it's no longer possible to tighten the nut (32mm).




Time to install the sleeve:






Here is a link to 2 piece rear trailing arm bushing installation (post #28)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1931924
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Last edited by txl146; 06-05-2010 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:53 PM   #2
LitespeedPerformance
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^^^Nice work!
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:57 PM   #3
txl146
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Thanks - I will be posting pictures once I install your rear chassis bridge. Have you shipped it out yet?
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:11 PM   #4
txl146
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Not really the best method out there, but if you have no access to the press I found this method to be the easiest to remove the stock bushings...





Time to spray paint!
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Thanks - I will be posting pictures once I install your rear chassis bridge. Have you shipped it out yet?
Yes it shipped, I'm surprised you don't have it yet actually. PM Monday evening if you hadven't received it.

Also have the 2 piece Super Pro in the rear trailing arm position - relatively easy install, big improvement.
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:15 PM   #6
Steve Nastoff
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I'm curious, why not Super Pro 2 piece bushings front and rear?
That seems like a much simpler solution.
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:28 PM   #7
txl146
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In fact, I bought Energy suspension bushings set (F+R) thinking it's 2 piece in design, but fount out that only rear bushings are 2 piece design.

Also, Energy suspension bushings are much cheaper...
Energy suspension front and rear bushings = $45 shipped.
Super pro front and rear bushings = ~$120 shipped
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:43 PM   #8
Steve Nastoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
In fact, I bought Energy suspension bushings set (F+R) thinking it's 2 piece in design, but fount out that only rear bushings are 2 piece design.

Also, Energy suspension bushings are much cheaper...
Energy suspension front and rear bushings = $45 shipped.
Super pro front and rear bushings = ~$120 shipped
I went with the Super Pro front and rear and I am very happy, which is why I was curious about your choice.
I guess that you can't go wrong with either brand.
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:48 PM   #9
txl146
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I believe all Super pro bushings are made in Australia.
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Old 06-05-2010, 11:58 PM   #10
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I have front whiteline bushing on the way, dose this help with my down shift shudder i have? just wondering? ive pryed on the trailing arm and i can get the front bushing to move quite a bit but not the rear bushing so much. Should i get the rear bushing also? I know the front are shot.
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:48 AM   #11
txl146
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Not sure if it would help with shudder you have, but keep us posted of results.

You should get the rear bushings as well since it only takes 20 min to install 2 piece bushings...

Is this what you ordered?

http://turninconcepts.com/product_in...oducts_id=1033

Last edited by txl146; 06-06-2010 at 12:57 AM.
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:39 PM   #12
txl146
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Car feels more responsive when turning with these bushings installed.

Next set of bushings I will be installing will be lateral link bushings, which seems to be the bushings that make the most amount of difference.
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Old 04-02-2011, 12:33 AM   #13
txl146
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Method I used in #4 to remove stock bushing- anyone knows what the best way to remove stock bushing is from front control arm bushing mount?
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Old 04-02-2011, 05:15 AM   #14
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no idea, but what brand bushing you gonna go with this time?
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Old 04-02-2011, 11:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146
Method I used in #4 to remove stock bushing- anyone knows what the best way to remove stock bushing is from front control arm bushing mount?
This is the only bushing I have not replaced. It has a metal sleeve too right? Does the bushing have voids in the rubber like the forward trailing arm?
I ask because instead of drilling the trailing arm bushing I was able to wiggle the blade of a hand held coping saw through one of the voids and re-assemble the saw. Then just cut the rubber along the inside diameter, dis-assemble the saw and remove. If there are no voids maybe drill one hole to get the blade through. Still had to cut the sleeve out with a reciprocating saw though. Short of a press I don't know what else to do.

Please update us with your results.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:30 AM   #16
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I want to resurrect this thread from the dead in order to post a cheaper way to install the large bushing for those attempting to do this. I tried using a ball joint press (rental from OReilly), and when that failed to work I stumbled across this thread. What threw me off was the cost of the Harbor Freight bearing replacement kit so...I made my own.

Went down to Tacoma Screw and had the guy throw me something together. (it's a Northwest company that sells, among other things, lots and lots of screws) Its the same design as OP's, but the total cost was 7$ Also, there isn't any need to "pull" the metal sleeve for the new bushing through like OP did if you don't want to...just hit it with a mallet a few times and it'll go right in.

http://i.imgur.com/Tf3MEeJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VqzyJE6.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/plRFZyu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jw596FS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tGVfwyN.jpg

The only issue is that since this bushing hangs out of the sides of the sleeve, the flat washer only works up to a certain point. To compensate for this in order to pull the bushing the rest of the way through I used one of the metal sleeves from the ball joint press kit I had borrowed from OReillys. If you don't have access to one of these kits, I'm sure you can jerry rig something to work. You're car competent enough to have gotten this far after all.

http://i.imgur.com/lDtkNvK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cJVHkR8.jpg

Dirty but functional.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:55 PM   #17
txl146
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That's definitely functional. HF bearing kit wasn't too expensive. I think I paid around $80 back in 2010.
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