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Old 06-29-2010, 09:15 PM   #1
djyox
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Default Tossing some cash at the wrx, just wondering if I need to toss more...

Alright, so I've got a '06 wrx TR, and I had a plan of first getting an AP, then retune and building up from there. But I'm going to be getting a bonus check here soon, so I figure I might as well spoil the car a bit and get it headed to where I want to be just right off he bat rather than build up, step by step, with $100's spent in retunes.

So here is the planned parts list:
Full Megan exhaust (up/down/cat back)
68hta turbo (still don't know if its worth porting or not, I have heard yes to port it)
850cc injectors (for switching to e85)
AP (the local shop recommends this the most for tuning (http://www.revolutionsperformance.com/ Yeah I am 6500'+ up, but will be going home to MN in about 2 years)

Now my questions are, I am planning to stay with a TMIC, should I replace the little WRX one? What about a BOV, and if so, I think I'm looking at a 50/50 correct? What about my clutch? I have almost 50k on it now, and it sure feels like its a fresh clutch but most likely just a stock replacement.

And is there anything else I need to consider? My goal is around 350hp when all said and done (I'm understanding that this current list wont get me there, but I would like to get close to 300), and I want to autocross more than I want to school hondas and mustangs at the street light.

Thanks for your help
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:25 PM   #2
Big-E
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If you're going to stay with a TMIC you probably won't achieve your power output goals, but will come quite close.

Get rid of the WRX TMIC for a no-name big TMIC. Don't get a Pe**in because it weighs 20lbs. That's a lot of weight to be holding up over the engine.

A BOV is a waste unless you want to hear the psssshhhhhhtttt. Bag it and spend the $$$ on something else.

Leave the clutch, buy a stainless steel hose and put in some good brake fluid (ATE blue; Motul RBF600) and leave it alone until you actually cook it. If you take care of it you'll get more mileage out of it than you think you will.

Auto-x eh? Replace the traverse link (control arm) bushings with some HD rubber or poly, but don't get an ALK that changes the suspension geometry. That will bump your class.

Also, replace the trailing link front bushing. It's bubble gum and sucks. Contact BigSkyWRX here on the formus. He does an exchange program of sorts by obtaining a pair of trailing links and pressing in a set of Group-N bushings and then you buy them and give him your trailing links.

Just a few ideas. I'm a chassis and suspension person and I will say to replace as many bushings as possible to stiffen things up.

Let others chime in and give you some advice as well so you have a better pool of information to draw from.
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:54 PM   #3
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For autox this will put you in the Street Modified class, so I hope you don't expect to be competitive at the higher stages.
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:10 PM   #4
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Well, if need be, I can always later on drop on a fmic. And really, for now, i just want to get out there and race, even just track days would be good for me (never raced a car, but used to race karts for years). I've looked up some people's cars on here to see what others have done, but most seem to be just wanting to get the most HP or drag race.

I know i will be needing to get the suspension and chassis all worked over, and I'm for sure way out of my league when it comes to what works on the track. So thanks for those tips!


I want a daily driver and weekend warrior. What ever path I need to take to get to there, thats what I want to do.


Do you recommend I scrap any of the above said items? I picked the 68hta because of the 16g like(ish) spool and 20g like(ish) boost.
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djyox View Post
Well, if need be, I can always later on drop on a fmic. And really, for now, i just want to get out there and race, even just track days would be good for me (never raced a car, but used to race karts for years). I've looked up some people's cars on here to see what others have done, but most seem to be just wanting to get the most HP or drag race.

I know i will be needing to get the suspension and chassis all worked over, and I'm for sure way out of my league when it comes to what works on the track. So thanks for those tips!


I want a daily driver and weekend warrior. What ever path I need to take to get to there, thats what I want to do.


Do you recommend I scrap any of the above said items? I picked the 68hta because of the 16g like(ish) spool and 20g like(ish) boost.
If you're just looking to get out there and race (which is awesome!), I think this is a great set up as it will be fun around town as well.

For suspension, if you're looking to go with coilovers, try the BC BR Coilovers from ImportImageRacing.com. For a DD just stick with the factory spring rates. I really like mine (I also have Swift Springs. Worse ride, but stiffer for competitive autox), and for $999 shipped they are a great product. Just also get the rear extenders. You can get a sway bar if you want. If you do, I'd recommend a 22mm rear adj whiteline to start and then a 24mm front adj whiteline later on.

BUT, if you don't have wheels and tires for racing already THAT should be your ultimate priority if you really want to start racing. Find some nice 17x7.5 or 17x8 wheels, and I recommend Dunlop Star Specs for the price and performance (225/45 for the 7.5 and 235/40 for the 8).
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:26 PM   #6
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On the 2006 does the 68hta bolt up to the tmic flange? I know it dosen't on the 08+?
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:31 PM   #7
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the 06 tmic is tiny! replace that for sure with at least a sti tmic.
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:41 PM   #8
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If you're doing autocross for fun, I'll let you make it the way you like it. If you want to be competitive, stay completely stock, go with the best tires you can in stock class and get as much seat time as you possibly can. Take an instructor with you every time and ride with as many instructors as possible. Seat time trumps all both in autocross (where I started) and on the track (where I ended up).
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack ffr1846 View Post
If you're doing autocross for fun, I'll let you make it the way you like it. If you want to be competitive, stay completely stock, go with the best tires you can in stock class and get as much seat time as you possibly can. Take an instructor with you every time and ride with as many instructors as possible. Seat time trumps all both in autocross (where I started) and on the track (where I ended up).
+1,000,000 for this
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:07 AM   #10
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Don't bother with the Megan exhaust, it's garbage.
Don't bother with any "eBay" intercoolers, they're garbage.
Don't bother with a BOV, you don't need it.
You want to autocross? Look into suspension mods.
Also, listen to what Jack said.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:21 AM   #11
djyox
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Ok, so I'm thinking of some after market big honkin TMIC with stock bov.


And my plan for tires was, some light(ish) weight rims with some good tires on there for the track, and then stock rims and tires for the road. I was thinking of up grading the disks, lines, and pads for breaks.

I did want to get some coil overs, but I'm worried about dialing them in correctly. I don't want to make handling and ride worse just because I know that the coil overs *could* be better over stock, I actually want them to be better.

And yes, I am staying away from ebay for all buys. What makes the megan so horse crap? I know its china made, but I heard it wasn't that bad... in exact words i believe it was said "... not like that ebay crap..."
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:29 AM   #12
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Megan is eBay crap with a better marketing team.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:31 AM   #13
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BOV will do you more harm than good...Oh, and we need pics before and after
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:55 AM   #14
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Get a full TBE, AP, then go for tires, sways, springs in that order.

You will not believe how much a good set of tires and sways will do. Stick with the Cobb OTS Stage 2 map until you finish off your power mods. Realistically, suspension and tires will make the car exponentially better than getting a bigger turbo and supporting mods.

With suspension mods, you can drive your car on a different line and drive much more aggressively. For my car, it was night and day when I switched tires.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:13 AM   #15
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You need to focus less on power and more on suspension if you're autocrossing. If you're wanting to go the coilover route, you cannot afford to cheap out. The good options (the BC coilovers mentioned earlier are not even close to being on this list) start at ~$1,500-1,600. Sway bars are going to be more bang for the buck than any other mod mentioned in this thread. Also, it's not a question of doing the brake upgrades you mentioned. Those should be done on any street car.

Last edited by Byzantium; 06-30-2010 at 01:52 AM.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XanRules View Post
Don't bother with the Megan exhaust, it's garbage.
Don't bother with any "eBay" intercoolers, they're garbage.
Don't bother with a BOV, you don't need it.
You want to autocross? Look into suspension mods.
Also, listen to what Jack said.
Have to agree to that.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackrussianSTI View Post
Have to agree to that.
I usually save this for Byzantium, Uncle Scotty, and Unabomber, but...


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Old 06-30-2010, 05:32 AM   #18
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You will definitely want a larger intercooler with that 68hta. I used a stock sti one on my 02 and it did not like it. Eventually just went to fmic. However, for autox, you want a top mount, better throttle response.

Call Jon over at flat iron tuning (located in Boulder), he will hook you up with wheels and tires. You may want to run larger injectors than 850's with E85 on the 68hta. Quite frankly, I don't know why anyone runs lower than 1000cc. Up at altitude you won't need them, but you will need them in MN depending on how much boost you run. I'd also suggest a fuel pump if it's not on your list.

+1 on suspension mods for autox.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:28 PM   #19
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Ok. Like these folks said, TBE, AP Stage 2, sways, wheels/tires and if you wanted you could even do some moderate springs. I'm in the process of doing all this myself.

As for breaks, don't listen to what anyone says without doing a little research. Check out this sticky thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1998265
In other words, wheels will do more than brake upgrades. Cheers.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djyox View Post
I want to school hondas and mustangs at the street light.
And this: if you're not already schooling hondas at the traffic light in a WRX, then the first thing on your list should be a better driver, i.e. track school.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:56 PM   #21
djyox
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I know I'm going to need better suspension, but because I'm so out of my league on those I'm kinda holding off on what to get until I can read up a little more info. The only thing is I'm going to fall into money because of this bonus, I know the few things I'm going to want (one of them on the list is the sti tranny). I will end up getting what is most available and i know the most about first.

As much as I hate to say it, saving is almost out of the question for me. If I don't spend it on the car right away while its burning a hole in my pocket, I will spend it on hookers and booze. (maybe not hookers, but girls you find at the bars around here are close to that)

So my thinking was get some of the motor stuff out of the way (exhaust, turbo, injectors (with fuel pump), TMIC, and management system), then move down to the suspension (first would be bushings and sway bars, then tires/rims (just for the track tires and rims) and last but not least coil overs. ) That way, it will give me time to figure out what type of setup I want, and then most importantly, how to dial that in so I can make it work like it should. Also another thought in my mind is that this setup wont be completed until next year, and I would rather have a fun car on the roads while waiting for spring, than just a harsher ride that I'm getting no benefit from other than toughing my ass up. Plus, lets hope this sport is just like every other in the fact that used things become cheaper and more available around xmas time. Maybe i can find a lot of what I am looking for there....

Or maybe I need to sit down and rework all this out in my head again of what should come first...
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djyox View Post
I know I'm going to need better suspension, but because I'm so out of my league on those I'm kinda holding off on what to get until I can read up a little more info. The only thing is I'm going to fall into money because of this bonus, I know the few things I'm going to want (one of them on the list is the sti tranny). I will end up getting what is most available and i know the most about first.

As much as I hate to say it, saving is almost out of the question for me. If I don't spend it on the car right away while its burning a hole in my pocket, I will spend it on hookers and booze. (maybe not hookers, but girls you find at the bars around here are close to that)

So my thinking was get some of the motor stuff out of the way (exhaust, turbo, injectors (with fuel pump), TMIC, and management system), then move down to the suspension (first would be bushings and sway bars, then tires/rims (just for the track tires and rims) and last but not least coil overs. ) That way, it will give me time to figure out what type of setup I want, and then most importantly, how to dial that in so I can make it work like it should. Also another thought in my mind is that this setup wont be completed until next year, and I would rather have a fun car on the roads while waiting for spring, than just a harsher ride that I'm getting no benefit from other than toughing my ass up. Plus, lets hope this sport is just like every other in the fact that used things become cheaper and more available around xmas time. Maybe i can find a lot of what I am looking for there....

Or maybe I need to sit down and rework all this out in my head again of what should come first...
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:40 PM   #23
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So are you going to literally throw money at it? Avoid coins, you might scratch the paint.
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:55 AM   #24
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i know where there are some gp moto coilovers for 850.00 used. but are in perfect shape. they were on a forester for only 2000 miles.

check Eugene Oregon Craigslist for those coilovers. my friend is selling them.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:59 AM   #25
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Also i'm no expert, but in almost every post ive read about people wanting to switch to e85, they were told by their tuners that they would max out 850 cc injectors and would need to go larger.

did you decide on 850cc from your tuners advice?
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