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Old 09-30-2010, 10:25 PM   #1
Scooby Guru
Member#: 96944
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hampshire, IL
2005 SAAB 9-2X AERO
4eat Stage 2 Protuned

Default Rock chip repair advice.

What's the best way of repairing this rock chip, the paint is down to the bare metal, also you can see the crack in the paint along with minimal edge lift around the paint chip as well. This is on the hood of my dad's 09 Outback, the rock also hit the glass but didn't even nick it.

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Old 09-30-2010, 10:36 PM   #2
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 111682
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
1981 Yugo hatchback


factory touch up paint
2000 grit w/ polishing compound
clear w/ q-tip
2000 grit w/ polishing compound
meguiar's 105
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:37 PM   #3
Scooby Guru
Member#: 96944
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hampshire, IL
2005 SAAB 9-2X AERO
4eat Stage 2 Protuned


What about the lifting edges? Around the whole thing.
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:50 PM   #4
Former Vendor
Member#: 246785
Join Date: May 2010
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: WNY and www.autoaesthetica.com

With most paint chips you have to figure what has started will most likely continue(rust, paint lift etc...)

If you think you can carefully break off the lifted edges that is what we typically do to enable us to see the entire chip for roughing, priming and then the actual part of touching up. If not you should be very certain you can completely cover the area so no moisture gets under the new exposure.

You have to figure that any moisture that gets in between your touch up and now lifted OEM paint sets the stage for potential corrosion and rust.

OK, I couldn't find the good post, I will try to type this as straight forward as possible. In reality matching touch up is a major pain because touch is lacquer based paint and even harder with metallic because of the lacquer base the metallic tends to fall faster in the paint because of thin viscosity amongst a host of other things.

Key points
1. THIN COATS - multiple thin coats with 30min to 1 hour drying time each - if its cold and damp more time. THIN! This goes for primer if you choose, paint and clear if you choose. The touch up paint as it dries, shrinks.
2. Work clean and prep clean - anything in the chip before it could make the chip fail
3. Patience and knowing when to stop

The final thing is deciding if you want to try to stop your THIN coats just at the level of the regular paint and if you are going to wetsand, suby paint is soft so wetsanding takes a lot of material off in a hurry. I would recommend doing thin coats until you reach the top and then letting it dry for a few days and seeing if you can live with it.

- I can update this if people want it stickied and elaborated on. We all know Subaru is a bit prone to chipping

(this is after you have decided or decided not to break the lifted edges carefully with a toothpick or a pin)
- Clean and dry the area, wipe a couple of times with isopropyl alcohol to ensure no grease, wax, other contamination is gone.
- You need something to rough the area prior to priming some use low grit sand paper, others use 2000 grit or w/e they have on hand. If you do this be careful you don't sand the OEM paint because that would need polishing or risk remaining dull. I like to use 1500 or 2000 to rough just the metal. For smaller chips you can glue cut out pieces of wetsand paper onto a pencil eraser to address smaller chips(this can apply to post touch up wetsanding AND pre touch up metal scuffing)
- IF the area has rust you must CAREFULLY sand all of this out, any rust will probably make the chip fail fairly quickly
- 1 good thin coat of primer with 1 or 2 hours drying if you choose to prime. Multiple light coats of color stopping just short of what you think is 1 or 2 coats worth of space to clear if you are going to clear
APPLICATION METHOD Using a toothpick or a tiny artists brush apply your WELL shaken and hastily opened [Primer OR paint OR clear] to the chip which should if cleaned properly suck right down into the chip. Over filling the chip will start a mess, THIN small coats with a little persuasion to fill any low spots(bump the drop carefully with your toothpick or brush if it stands high instead of spreading out automatically)

- After 1 thin coat allow ample drying time of 30min to 1 hour - at this stage you will notice the paint is much lower as it has dried and this is why you use thin coats.
Again, multiple light coats of color stopping just short of what you think is 1 or 2 coats worth of space to clear if you are going to clear.

Allow total chip touch up to dry for a couple of days if at all possible. Most paint can be dry(using hairdryer or CAREFULLY with a moving heatgun in 30 min to prepare for wetsanding if you are going to go that far.

Wetsanding if you choose should be VERY carefully done and very well lubricated because lacquer based touch up can easily be pulled right out of the chip. lacquer paint can also be very soft so 3000 grit at this point is probably your best bet if you are going to be polishing it out especially by hand, again, if you choose to wetsand.

A couple light strokes at a time with a backing pad for wetsanding- I will caution you if you choose something like a finger as tracers can be left too deep to safely polish out. On the other hand some professionals with feathersand using a VERY VERY light touch on a small finger. Again checking your work every couple of strokes both visually and using your tactile sense to see when it is close to level or level.

Then something like Meguiars 105 or OTC Meguiars ultimate compound to remove the sanding scratches even by hand in some cases- again very carefully because the paint can still be ripped from the chip. Then removing the haze left by your 105/UC or equivalent with your polish of choice.

I would just use the multiple thin coats stopping at the level of the paint, and really would try to avoid wetsanding at first to see if you can live with it. Best of luck - if you need more descriptives or would like my help you can email me at
[email protected]

Its a heck of a task to do it right but be patient and work clean and you will be good. We often tell our customers that touch ups will never look 100% so beware . Another last tip is when doing touch up work I always work in well lit areas, and use halogens a couple feet off of the paint to allow the chip to warm up and dry after each coat.

Last edited by AutoAesthetica; 09-30-2010 at 11:39 PM.
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