Purge Valve Solenoid Deletion/Bypass - Who's done it?

[1-3-2-4]

I went to replace both of the vacuum lines on the purge valve last night and the damn nipples broke right off. I'm going to attempt to fix this, but I'm not hopeful. I was questioning the necessity of this valve, so I'm hoping others have been down this road before me. The new part is about $112 and only available from Subaru!

I'm hoping to leave the valve plugged in so no codes are thrown, but I'm in the air on leaving the line vented to atmosphere. Does anyone know when the purge valve is opened? Aside from a turbo car where the intake charge has positive pressure, I don't see the need for the valve on a normally aspirated car. It seems to me that I can eliminate the fuel smell by simply bypassing the valve altogether and routing the line directly to the intake manifold. It will always see vacuum (exept at WOT), so it will always pull fumes from the charcoal canister. Has anyone else done this? Am I missing something on this system? Based on what I can tell, this is everything in a nutshell.

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[TFBHTMFSNE]

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT run the line directly from the canister to the intake manifold!
During self-testing of the integrity of the fuel system for vapor leaks, the line from the tank to atmosphere is closed off. That would mean full manifold vacuum to the tank. Those funny, clunking noises you would hear would be your fuel tank collapsing.
I won't even try to go into detail about duty ratios to your CPC (Canister Purge Control) and fuel tank pressures. Let's just say bypassing the CPC will lead to some pretty rich conditions and a MIL.
Leaving the line off will result in a lean condition and MIL.
Pony up the $112 and buy a new one.

[1-3-2-4]

Thanks for the information. I wasn't aware of the control logic that went on behind the scenes. My only evap system experience is on motorcycles. They are much simpler and work only by running the tank vent to the charcoal canister. One vacuum line then runs from the charcoal canister to the intake manifold. No electronics, no wizardry. Works the same with or without...but without will obviously give off a fuel smell. Good to know this is NOT how this system works.

I'm going to attempt to fix the broken nipples. If that doesn't work, time for a new one...

[00LGTP]

what nipple did you break off? i repaired mine before and function normal ( no CELs)

[Silverstg2]

Im not running one, and neither are lots of people, search purge solenoid for discussion

[1-3-2-4]

I broke off both nipples. They literally crumbled in my hands. I was able to repair it with plastic barbed nipples and epoxy; we'll see if it holds. I'll search around and maybe just eliminate it completely if this fails.

[Sound_Fiend]

I know this thread is old but I broke one of my tips of the purge solenoid and was wondering if the 3 way valve can be used as a mechanical replacement over the purge solenoid. Does anyone know how the circular 3 way valve works?

My idea is that it lets pressure flow only when the center hole has suction, correct me if im wrong but couldn't I just use the 3 way valve by connecting one end to the tank gas pipe then the other end to the intake manifold and connect the center hose from the 3 way valve to the intake manifold and from my understanding, only under larger suction pressure would the valve open to suck the gases?

Could I do this?

[V8Slayer]

I had one of those stupid plastic nipple brake off last week, a healthy dose of JB weld and an allen key to hold the nipple in place and I was gtg 24 hours later

[Sound_Fiend]

Could I just use the 3 way circular valve like I stated above? and just not use the purge solenoid. So bypassing it.