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Old 11-10-2014, 12:19 AM   #1
T-37
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Default Install: 2015 STi 13:1 steering rack into a GD

If I miss something, or if you have info about 05-07 cars to add to this write up, let me know and I will edit this post, thanks!

This install will cover 02-04 cars. It should go into the 05-07 cars in a similar fashion as well, but those cars use a different style of mount. (I'm sure someone can chime in to clear up the differences.) The rack is a direct swap into the GR chassis.

If you're up for reading a lot, almost any info you could ask for about the 2015 STi steering rack is in this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2601789

THIS MODIFICATION WILL REQUIRE A LOT OF CUTTING, GRINDING, AND TRIMMING. ALWAYS USE APPROPRIATE SAFETY MEASURES TO PROTECT YOURSELF FROM INJURY. SAFETY GLASSES ARE OBVIOUSLY A MINIMUM WHEN YOU'RE GRINDING ON THE UNDERSIDE OF A CAR.

One other thing, this took me a few weeknights and a couple weekends to get it all sorted out. It's not something I would have attempted if it were my only car just because of all of the unknowns. It's also nice to be able to take your time and do things safely.

Parts List:
1x 2015 STi Steering Rack http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-263...ring-rack.aspx
1x M10x1.25x50mm Bolt (Grade 10.9)
1x M10x1.25x60mm Bolt (Grade 10.9)
2x M10 locking washers
2x M10 or 3/8" ID thick fender washers.
1x spacer block (I'll go into more detail on this later) EDIT: See post #2
New bottle of Dexron III ATF (Mobil 1 synthetic ATF is good)

Parts for steering lines (this may not be needed for the 05-07 models, but it was definitely necessary for my 04, the factory lines would thread onto the rack, but were pointed directly at and resting against the downpipe)
For the lines, I followed this write up http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t185...ing-lines.html but this part was missing: Earl's 915106ERL DO NOT USE 491970 Fragola 14mmX1.5 O-ring adapter. Use Russell 640820 or Earl's 9894DBHERL instead.


Optional upgrade parts.
GD STi steering linkage
Steering rack bushings - need driver's side '15 and passenger side GD.

Procedure, read and understand everything that is involved before beginning:

1. Safely get the car in the air and on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Lock the steering wheel in the center position (I hooked a bungee cord through the wheel to the bottom of the seat.)

2. Remove the front undertray/plastic, U-shaped subframe, center jack plate, and front sway bar.

3. Disconnect the steering linkage (between the column and the rack) from the steering rack and disconnect the steering lines from the rack and allow fluid to drain into a container (you don't want to be lying in ATF while doing the rest of this work)

4. Unbolt the steering rack and tie rod ends and remove the assembly.



5. (Attempt to) fit 2015 steering rack and notice 2 things, the driver's side of the rack won't fit through the hole in the crossmember, and the 2015 rack has 2 flanges rather than a bracket on the driver's side, and one of the flanges is offset. This is where a spacer is required.

6. Fabricate, or find someone to fabricate a spacer. It will fit between the offset flange of the steering rack and the subframe. it needs to be ~.39" thick, the diameter needs to be the same as or greater than the diameter of the bushings on the '15 rack, it will also need a clearance hole for an M10 bolt in the center. I used some scrap aluminum for the spacer material. EDIT: See post #2.

7. Mark on the subframe the areas that need trimmed by test fitting the rack.



8. Open up the hole in the subframe.



9. Test fit the rack, and make sure it fits, but don't install it yet.

10. Measure center to center from the outer tie-rods on your factory rack, and write that number down. Measure the same thing on the '15 rack and be amazed at how much you will have to trim.

11. Trim inner and outer tie rods. I'm sorry I don't have hard numbers for how much you will need to cut. I cut my outers down so that there is just enough room to fit a wrench on them, and I cut the inners so that I could thread the outers all the way to the lock nut. This was enough to get the wheels to be visibly slightly toed in. Don't use this as a rule, this worked for me, but it may not work the same for you. Measure for yourself and take your time not to cut too much.

Also, I have to think that wagons (and GCs) are going to have to do something different. There's just barely enough of the tie rods left for the sedan, so with the narrower track it just won't happen without some shorter tie rods. I'm sure something exists, but I'm not aware of it (that's not saying much.)



12. Now we can bolt in the new rack, make sure to feed the driver's side in first and connect the steering linkage before bolting it in. MAKE SURE to use the two large flat/fender washers and 2 locking washers with the two M10 bolts. It should go Bolt > Lock washer > large flat/fender washer > steering rack > spacer (on one side) > subframe.



Your large washers should look like this, if they don't, go find some that do. If you don't use big flat washers the sleeves can pull out of the bushings, allowing the entire steering rack to drop down.



Use the D-shaped GD rack bushing on the passenger side with the factory bracket.



13. Reconnect the tie rod ends, and reinstall the sway bar, jack plate, u-shaped subframe, and undertray.

14. Remove the old line from the power steering pump to the rack.

15. Install the AN fittings and line from the pump to the rack.




16. Remove the lower clamp from the factory return line and remove the hardline that connects to the rack outlet.

17. install the M16x1.5 to 6an male > 6AN female to female > 6an male to barb fitting to the return line outlet of the rack, and push the return hose onto the barb fitting and clamp it.



18. Fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the system by turning the wheel back and forth with the wheels in the air. Start the car and repeat until you no longer see bubbles/foam in the tank.

19. Get the car back on the ground and get it aligned!

Enjoy!
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Last edited by T-37; 08-04-2015 at 12:52 AM.
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Old 11-10-2014, 12:22 AM   #2
T-37
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Default

Spacer dimensions



UPDATE:

I've had a couple of o-ring failures at autox, so I decided to do a little further investigation into the problem. I noticed some difference between the stock P/S line vs. the Fragola AN adapter I was using.

I think the Fragola 14x1.5mm O-ring to 6AN Adapter was the culprit. I believe the hardline from the rack was bottoming out on the adapter so the o-ring isn't quite seating fully/correctly. I purchased 2 new adapters, one is an Earls and the other is a Russell.

Here is the stock line (notice the chamfered/tapered bore)


Here is the Fragola adapter (p/n 491970) (notice how there is no chamfer/taper to allow space for the hardline)



Here is the Russell adapter (p/n 640820)


Here is the Earl's adapter (p/n 9894DBHERL)


I believe either the Earl's or Russell adapter will work MUCH better than the Fragola, but I haven't test fit yet. The Russell looks like the closest to the stock line, so I'm leaning towards that one. I'm hoping to get it all back together by the autocross this weekend, so I will report back.

Last edited by T-37; 08-04-2015 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 11-10-2014, 12:41 AM   #3
Bikelok
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Default Install: 2015 STi 13:1 steering rack into a GD

SWEEEEEET!!!!

Thanks!!!!

Subscribed!!!

Do you have a clear picture of the spacer you made?


Sent from the twilight zone.

Last edited by Bikelok; 11-10-2014 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:53 AM   #4
gregroot198521
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Very nice, now hopefully someone with an '05-07 does it too. :tup:
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:54 AM   #5
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post

Do you have a clear picture of the spacer you made?


Sent from the twilight zone.
I do not, I can sketch one up with the actual dimensions tomorrow though.


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Old 11-10-2014, 03:40 AM   #6
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
I do not, I can sketch one up with the actual dimensions tomorrow though.


Sent from my SM-G900V using NASIOC mobile app
Yes please!

Thanks!


Sent from the twilight zone.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:32 AM   #7
ride5000
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nice job.
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:08 PM   #8
JarHarms
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Cool.
I wonder what the thread sizing is of the inner tie rod (rack side). And if it is the same as a GD length inner tie rods (there were 14mm and 16mm versions I think). That might take care of that length difference, possibly.
*It's M20x1.5 which is larger than earlier ones.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-18-2016 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:29 PM   #9
liltoua
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Would it be easier to just buy a quick steering rack? About the same price as an OEM one and no cutting required.
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liltoua View Post
Would it be easier to just buy a quick steering rack? About the same price as an OEM one and no cutting required.
where are you finding replacement quick steering racks?
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:55 PM   #11
FlatironsTuning.com
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Great job!

Thanks for putting this write-up together.
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:57 PM   #12
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liltoua View Post
Would it be easier to just buy a quick steering rack? About the same price as an OEM one and no cutting required.
Q-rack is no longer in business, and their racks were about $400 more expensive.

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Old 11-10-2014, 07:42 PM   #13
mrsaturn7085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liltoua View Post
Would it be easier to just buy a quick steering rack? About the same price as an OEM one and no cutting required.
The only "correct" OEM option is ~$4000.
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:41 PM   #14
dthack03
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Brilliant work and thanks for sharing with the community.
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:14 AM   #15
gregroot198521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
where are you finding replacement quick steering racks?

This. All I've seen since Q-Rack went under was a company that sells a faster turning steering column (L&E Fabrication).
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Old 11-11-2014, 11:33 PM   #16
T-37
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Updated post #2 with spacer dimensions.
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:57 AM   #17
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Spacer dimensions

Fantastic!!!

Thank you very much!!!


Sent from the twilight zone.
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Old 11-14-2014, 03:06 PM   #18
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Write up is very appreciated!!!

More importantly, how does it feel???????
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Old 11-14-2014, 03:07 PM   #19
T-37
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Feels good man.

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Old 11-14-2014, 03:48 PM   #20
T-37
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In all honesty I've only driven the car twice since aligning it, it's a summer/fun car and I don't like driving it with salt-brine on the road. The little bit I've driven it was awesome though. Highly recommended.

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Old 11-15-2014, 02:17 PM   #21
LucasBlack
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Fantastic write-up! Thanks so much for this!
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Old 11-29-2014, 04:24 PM   #22
hail2theTheif
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Posted this into the other install thread too but just in case this gets read more often..

Now if only you could do this into a 2.5RS that doesn't have a swap......

On another note, has anyone ever tried to bolt up the GR crossmember on a GD? I wonder if that option would alleviate some of the pain with this install.
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Old 11-29-2014, 04:53 PM   #23
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hail2theTheif View Post
Posted this into the other install thread too but just in case this gets read more often..

Now if only you could do this into a 2.5RS that doesn't have a swap......

On another note, has anyone ever tried to bolt up the GR crossmember on a GD? I wonder if that option would alleviate some of the pain with this install.
Swapping subframes would be more of a pain than grinding open a hole IMO. Of course, if your engine is already out, that would change things.

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Old 12-03-2014, 03:34 PM   #24
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
In all honesty I've only driven the car twice since aligning it, it's a summer/fun car and I don't like driving it with salt-brine on the road. The little bit I've driven it was awesome though. Highly recommended.

Sent from my SM-G900V using NASIOC mobile app
The weather was nice enough that I had the chance to drive the car a bit more last week/weekend. I 100% recommend this mod for GD cars. It's like playing a videogame I'm really looking forward to the autox season starting back up in a couple months. I need to get off my butt and do this on my DD bugeye too...
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Old 12-04-2014, 08:02 AM   #25
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Thanks for helping spend my money! Looks like I need one of these...
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