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Old 07-23-2015, 09:46 AM   #1
Big-E
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Default Clutch install - general questions

I will be installing a complete new clutch kit soon and would like to know the following:

Flywheel (if damaged): resurface or replace?
Flywheel bolts: reuse or replace?
Clutch pressure-plate bolts: reuse or replace?
TOB fork-pivot: reuse or replace?
TOB fork: reuse or replace?
How to remove pilot bearing w/o special tool(s)?
How to install pilot bearing w/o special tool(s)?

I have prior experience in removing and reinstalling this type of transmission, with both types of clutch engagement (pull type and push type).

2006 WRX
85,XXX miles
Tuned with approximately: 230whp / 310wtq

Clutch is being replaced due to both age and the tune (torque) is starting to overwhelm it and it has started to slip under very high load (mash the pedal to the floor while already in drive at speed).

Thank you for your assistance.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:13 AM   #2
kenliu84
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What's up bud? That's some good low mileage on the ride. I replaced the clutch a few years back so I am going off of memory.

I resurfaced the flywheel and it looked just like new when done. You just have to find a good shop, speak with the actual guy that will be doing it or who knows this type of work. I went to 2 Parts Authority (probably local to NYC). First one said they couldn't resurface it because of the design (dumb), and the next one I took it to had a guy who knew his stuff.

I reused both sets of bolts - just make sure you use loctite on them.

I reused the fork and pivot. I inspected them and they were still pretty good. Maybe buy them from dealer just in case they are bad once you have it opened up.

You just use a right-size socket and smack out the pilot bearing. Same way in installing a new pilot bearing but be more careful when installing.

The TOB from my ACT street/strip kit was not good quality. I had to replace it after like 10-15K miles. I recommend an OEM TOB, maybe even do the same with the pilot bearing.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:23 AM   #3
Big-E
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Thanks Ken.

I ordered new bolts, a pivot, fork, and a spring-retainer for the TOB as a "just-in-case"; overall it was not that expensive.

We do have a local machine shop that was acquired and kept open (the founder-owner just passed recently) and so I will go there and ask questions in advance.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:45 PM   #4
Bacon117
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Here is one trick to remove the pilot bearing: Find a punch or solid metal rod that just fits inside the bearing. The tighter, the better. Fill the hole with grease. Tap the rod into the center of bearing, which should try to run the grease out of the hole, bringing the pilot bearing with it. Doesn't always work, but it does sometimes.
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Old 07-24-2015, 05:37 PM   #5
Big-E
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I remember trying this using grease and a punch to create hydraulic pressure and it did not work. I am however willing to try again on this one.

Is the pilot-bearing located in the end of the crank-shaft or in the center of the flywheel? I keep thinking its in the flywheel per a review of the FSM.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:54 PM   #6
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Replaced the clutch today.

Pilot bearing was stiff.
Throw-out bearing was seized.
Clutch friction disc springs were not broken, but rattling around.
Pressure-plate looked okay.

Also replaced the flywheel bolts and clutch-cover bolts as well as for the clutch-fork and retainer-spring.

The clutch now feels as when the car was new.
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Old 08-03-2015, 04:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Replaced the clutch today.

Pilot bearing was stiff.
Throw-out bearing was seized.
Clutch friction disc springs were not broken, but rattling around.
Pressure-plate looked okay.

Also replaced the flywheel bolts and clutch-cover bolts as well as for the clutch-fork and retainer-spring.

The clutch now feels as when the car was new.
hope you used an OEM TOB....

and I gotta do my clutch sometime...soon....150k miles
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Old 08-03-2015, 05:38 PM   #8
Bacon117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
hope you used an OEM TOB....

and I gotta do my clutch sometime...soon....150k miles
Nah. I got to 170, and now I RallyX it!
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:24 AM   #9
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon117 View Post
Nah. I got to 170, and now I RallyX it!
d0000000000000000000d......if you saw how and where I drive my car....loaded down with no room for a passenger and making 20-21psi???

yeah....im kinda shocked its lasted as long as it has
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:33 PM   #10
Big-E
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To go back two years: I replaced the TOB only with an OEM item when I had the transmission out because the original one had been making noise for a while - the dance and tap noise.

The OEM TOB inner plastic race or seal looked like black shredded wisps; it was a mess.

I used a South Bend Stage-II clutch kit from TiC, which was a complete kit: pilot-bearing, throw-out bearing, friction-disc, and pressure-plate.

The new clutch is much better than when the car was new. I like the S2 clutch because it disengages and engages rather 'promptly' without any jerking or harshness, and the pedal movement is not any 'heavier'.

Also, the "yoke" or "u-joint" coupler between the shifter-linkage and the shifter-rod to the transmission had also frozen. I removed and serviced it so it 'moves' again.

No more intermittent grinding or grabbing of gears such as 3rd or 5th.

*******

Also, I have an Oswald Performance sub-frame and I did not have to remove it to R&R the 5-speed. I want to state this because the OP sub-frame has jack-stand points at the front, which made crawling under the car that much easier without a jack-stand in the way.

Last edited by Big-E; 08-04-2015 at 11:27 PM.
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