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Old 03-29-2015, 10:48 AM   #1
RinglandFailure
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Smile Efr 9180 Sti

Hey everyone, new site member, new forum user, and new subaru owner. Originally posted this in the newb section but was advised to move over here for better help. I'll just copy and paste the text from my initial thread.



Hello community. New STi owner. New to forums as well. Currently in the early stages of having my Silver '05 built by Metro Performance in Denver/Lakewood Colorado. It was a scam of a sale that blew up and now I'm starting from scratch. Was hoping I could post my parts list here and get some feedback from the community. I want to apologize before hand. I don't want to sound like a total noob just throwing my money away. Just trust me when I say I'm a capable driver who only wants to learn about and respect my dream car. So here's the plan so far. Aside from everything being new and upgraded, from the oil pump to motor mounts, belts, gaskets, ect. I'm going with a sleeved block. If I'm not mistaken the block is a metro "seasoned" block sleeved by Benson.(edit)
Treadstone FMIC (comparable to larger APS fmic)
Radium dual Bosch surge tank
Twin Scroll EFR 9180 T4 1.05 A/R EWG turbo from Borg Warner
AEM Infinity ECU
ARP 625 head studs
ARP 2000 case bolts
Kelford 282/276 Mechanical Advantage Camshafts
OEM Subaru heads
Exedy triple disc clutch
Process West Race reverse intake manifold
Process West billet tgvs housing
Carbon fiber drive shaft , 880hp rear axel,750hp front axel all from driveshaft shop
Samsonas 6 speed sequential transmission

There's 3 pages of parts and I don't want to post anything that is a "given". So what do you guys think? I appreciate any feedback. And I sincerly apologize if I've posted this in the wrong forum. This seemed like the best place for a noob with a parts list.


So what do guys think? I'm putting this out here for advice/warnings/criticism... All of it.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:34 AM   #2
some dude
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Looks really nice. Sequential trans, why did you do that?

Is the engine together? Had it tuned yet? Who are you going with moving forward?
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:25 AM   #3
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Looks really nice. Sequential trans, why did you do that?

Is the engine together? Had it tuned yet? Who are you going with moving forward?
Thanks Well, metro performance in Lakewood CO is doing the build and tune on their new dynotech (sp?) We're shooting for 950whp before spray and Im not aware of anyone putting more than 800 on the stock 6 speed. Even those builds had regular breaking. It's usually 4th gear that goes from what Ive seen. Plus the performance advantage of course. The block gets back from Benson in about a week and my heads are assembled getting a custom port job at another shop who Metro contracts to do those. My cams are shipping from New Zealand so they won't be here till mid April. Around then my block will be assembled and I go in for another payment and that's when I pick powder coat options and FMIC color ect and also when they order the next set of parts. Still very early in the process in reference to when I'll actually be driving it again.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:04 AM   #4
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Interesting. As I might have said, I don't know anything about your trans. I haven't seen many failures of the 6spd, but people do break axles. Esp at high power levels.

What kind of racing do you do?
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:54 AM   #5
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get the 5" ets intercooler with a garrett core, you'll need it...the treadstone will heatsoak at that power if you beat on it hard.

pm me for more info, if u need any.
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:27 AM   #6
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Time for some 1/2inch headstuds because those 625s will not hold that down for more then a couple glory passes. The thread will come out of the block its pretty proven by now, i had one do it at low 700whp before we even got to turn it up, now its time for me to do 1/2inch studs.
Junior got a couple months out of his before he pulled it and found a couple pulled threads out.

As for the trans i have also seen 4th gear go a couple times on high hp cars..but you could just avoid slamning it in hard and just know it it may break at some point. It will hold up for a while, plus you could fix it like 10 times and still save half the money towards that trans lol

Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 03-31-2015 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by CatfaceType-R View Post
get the 5" ets intercooler with a garrett core, you'll need it...the treadstone will heatsoak at that power if you beat on it hard.

pm me for more info, if u need any.
Which treadstone intercooler? I know a lot of high hp guys locally use the big treadstone intercooler with the cast end tanks...
The ETS intercooler is quite a bit more expensive and does not look any bigger or better...actually the end tanks on the treadstone LOOK waaay better than the ETS.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...%26+Piping+kit
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:48 PM   #8
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iirc the aps was 3.5" or 4", which he compared his treadstone to. If his treadstone is 4.5" he could be fine, I always think overbuilding is a need with turbo/ic.
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:26 AM   #9
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If you gonna spray, do it right- Trevor at WON has some pretty sweet Subaru setups.

Don't bother with the American junk.

Your gonna need it up here at altitude, damn I miss it, insta spool...
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:53 PM   #10
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Interesting. As I might have said, I don't know anything about your trans. I haven't seen many failures of the 6spd, but people do break axles. Esp at high power levels.

What kind of racing do you do?
It's more for my personal taste and driving style. I like to put as much power down as possible, as fast as possible. It's milliseconds between shifts and it doesn't require clutch use after 1st gear and flat foot shifting and all that jazz. I plan on spraying from 2500rpm-5000rpm so it stops when my turbo spools. It'll redline at 9500rpm and the turbo can hold all the way through. I'll drag it if I race it but for now I just want something amazing to appreciate and drive every now and again. It's daily setting will probably be around 30 pounds on e85. I'll have a 60psi race map for the track.
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by CatfaceType-R View Post
get the 5" ets intercooler with a garrett core, you'll need it...the treadstone will heatsoak at that power if you beat on it hard.

pm me for more info, if u need any.
It's the 4 1/2" intercooler almost identical to the APS. It's commonly used for 1000hp V8 builds. I will however look into the ETS. This is why I started the thread. Thanks
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:58 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by linkubus06 View Post
Which treadstone intercooler? I know a lot of high hp guys locally use the big treadstone intercooler with the cast end tanks...
The ETS intercooler is quite a bit more expensive and does not look any bigger or better...actually the end tanks on the treadstone LOOK waaay better than the ETS.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...%26+Piping+kit
That's the one. The huge four and half inch one. It seems like a reliable choice so far
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Shortpersonbk View Post
Time for some 1/2inch headstuds because those 625s will not hold that down for more then a couple glory passes. The thread will come out of the block its pretty proven by now, i had one do it at low 700whp before we even got to turn it up, now its time for me to do 1/2inch studs.
Junior got a couple months out of his before he pulled it and found a couple pulled threads out.

As for the trans i have also seen 4th gear go a couple times on high hp cars..but you could just avoid slamning it in hard and just know it it may break at some point. It will hold up for a while, plus you could fix it like 10 times and still save half the money towards that trans lol
Exactly what I'm looking for man. Thank you so much. Already wrote this down so I can address it at my shop. How extensive of an adjustment is it? I'm a noob and I know my heads are assembled getting a custom port job as we type so I'm not sure whether to wait until mid April or not, to address this.
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:02 PM   #14
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The block will have to be torn apart to re drill and tap then clean it out because you need to step up the size diameter wise. The head is just a clearance hole so a machine shop can knock those open easily. I could be wrong on the head side of things but that's my understanding of what I'm about to do.


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Old 04-01-2015, 03:03 PM   #15
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If you gonna spray, do it right- Trevor at WON has some pretty sweet Subaru setups.

Don't bother with the American junk.

Your gonna need it up here at altitude, damn I miss it, insta spool...
Is WON in Denver? And by American junk you mean? Yeah I'm getting a lot of **** from friends for wanting to go that route but I want to spray from 2500-5k. The turbo should take care of everything from 5-9500. Idk why people have so much hate for nitrous.
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:04 PM   #16
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The block will have to be torn apart to re drill and tap then clean it out because you need to step up the size diameter wise. The head is just a clearance hole so a machine shop can knock those open easily. I could be wrong on the head side of things but that's my understanding of what I'm about to do.


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Okay well the block is on its way back from getting sleeved so hopefully I'm not too far into the process.
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinglandFailure View Post
Okay well the block is on its way back from getting sleeved so hopefully I'm not too far into the process.

Nope that's perfect

It just can't have the components in it because you want to be able to clean it out good.

You can buy 1/2inch studs from Outfront or off the line and p and l offers a 13 or 14mm can't remember which one of the top of my head.

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Old 04-01-2015, 06:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by RinglandFailure View Post
It's more for my personal taste and driving style. I like to put as much power down as possible, as fast as possible. It's milliseconds between shifts and it doesn't require clutch use after 1st gear and flat foot shifting and all that jazz. I plan on spraying from 2500rpm-5000rpm so it stops when my turbo spools. It'll redline at 9500rpm and the turbo can hold all the way through. I'll drag it if I race it but for now I just want something amazing to appreciate and drive every now and again. It's daily setting will probably be around 30 pounds on e85. I'll have a 60psi race map for the track.
I think your boost expectations are way out of line and I kind of doubt you will be revving to 9.5k...even the crazy builds up in MN that have a lot more $$$ and work into them usually rev only to 9k and 40psi is usually in kill mode.
Look up Cam's car (CAMtuning) with this exact turbo, he was running upper 30's psi and had some problems pushing coolant and he was sleeved with 625 headstuds. I haven't heard of any subaru engine taking 60psi and living. Even the compound setups that are popping up probably will not have that much boost and their big turbo is WAAYY bigger than the 9180.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:10 PM   #19
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WON is a British company. Wizard of Nitrous.

I had a NX setup, before I talked to him. His makes the NX stuff look like its from the Stone Age. Incredibly smart nitrous guy.

I initially got it to spool my turbo also, activated it from 3k to 10psi, it was seemles you couldn't tell when it turned off & the turbo took over. Then I'd just have it activate from 3k all the way at 99% pedal travel-if I didn't want it just let up to 98 & it's off.



you'll only use to spool that for about a month, then the first time you try it the whole way through you'll just leave it on.

Super cold charge(if your getting it there still in liquid state-good luck with NX) & lots of Nitrogen to buffer things in the cylinder.

TORQUE, I mean right now.

It really is Instaspool, I don't think it ever was on for more than 1.5-2sec when I was just using it to spool, according to data logs.

I was using it on a 1.6l with a bullseye252, basically a 3071, I'm at 9200'
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:10 PM   #20
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I was on 40 and in the process of turning it up when I spun a bearing we were aiming for lower 40s on a similar sized turbo. I could see mid 40s for a kill map. 60 won't happen on a 9180. I don't see why your using a bottle to spool a 9189 though if your going to rev it out that high anyways. For reference on my 68mm bullseye (similar in wheel size to a 9180 and flow I saw 37psi at 4,900). I think you should step it up to a 72.


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Old 04-01-2015, 09:35 PM   #21
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well this should be interesting to see. Lofty goals. You're gonna want to go to 14mm studs. 60 psi with 9500 RPM on this displacement, might want to look at a GTX45...or bigger. Regardless, this is a tall order.

There are some steps that you'll want to take in both block/foundation building and in sealing, that is for sure.

I also see no mention of crankshaft. You might want to choose that stroke wisely if you're actually going to try and run this kind of power.

There are more issues to be mentioned for chassis and driveline.


...oh yeah, and from what the drag guys tell me, those ti-gamma wheels don't much like heavy antilag (two step) and they also don't like more than 950*C temps.
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:42 PM   #22
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Just get a REVO/pulsoid, direct port setup, he has them, one for each side- keeps the feed line runs super short( important).

2500rpm, ease in like a 25shot- ramp up quickly to 50-75shot by 3K(all depending on gear), at 3K-8000k redline, or whatever, ramp up however much you want, keep increasing as the rpm's climb to keep the torque flat or however you want it…….. your ECU can run the pwm and timing adjustments.

50 shot gave me over 100 lb/ft torque at 4.5k, tapering to 50 lb/ft at 8000k redline on the dyno, I wouldn't spray on the dyno under 4K, street I did 3K, so Its even more the lower the RPMs are.

no shock on the driveline either, smooth, you won't even know it came on, other than you'll be going ludicrous speed…


You can even hook it in with traction control so if/when it spins, it'll back it down-then ramp it back in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2yePaO0_NE

need a 1500 shot for your other car? (note: it can go from 0-100-0% flow in milliseconds, its going slow for the video.)


Postman Pat just runs a basic pulsed setup on a leaf blower motor, imagine what a real setup could do….
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Q_UZqPX2d4

Last edited by point78; 04-02-2015 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:55 AM   #23
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I'm confused as to what the point is of spraying for spool on a turbo that already will need to be ramped in to not destroy things longevity wise, on top of that with a 9+k rev limit it shouldn't ever see 4k anyways with our gearing. Just seems like pointless load on the motor down low where you shouldn't be anyways.


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Old 04-02-2015, 10:35 AM   #24
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It takes a lot longer to spool up at 5k' where he lives, the roads that are fun to drive all go up higher, I'm up at 9200' in summit county just west of him, if he is driving up over the high switchback passes, Abasin's parking lot is at 11k', and the parking lot at the top of the pass there is 11.99k'.

If you manage to ever get the turbo to spool, it'll only be for a short time before your on the brakes, another 2nd gear- 180 deg switchback, and back to trying to spool.

He's gonna have to 2 step that thing just to pull out of the parking lot when he's done skiing/riding for the day.

He said he wants something amazing to appreciate & drive, wants power to the ground as quickly as possible.

It doesn't get any better than nitrous & a turbo, at least it didn't for me.

Then again, maybe he stays down there on the plains and only does highway pulls starting in 4th gear & 5000 rpm.




Besides all that, you get liquid N2O to boil off at -125f in your intake, and once the nitrogen and oxygen separate you have all the leftover nitrogen to act as a buffer in the cylinder and help with detonation. Won't need to run @ some crazy psi level.

If he's got the ECU to run the nitrous/fueling/timing, why not?

Last edited by point78; 04-02-2015 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:52 AM   #25
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Cams at like 7,500 or something and based off his graphs looks to see full boost around high 4s like I said. Like I said he has no business going wot below that point anyways if he's revving that high.
I get what if could offer, but I don't see the benefits worth it, especially on a efr9180, if he was on a 6870 or a 72+mm turbo I could, but efrs without altitude already need the boost ramped in or your just going to have issues with traction and breaking **** and causing un needed stress on components while truly going no faster in the big picture.
Cars going to rip but he asked for opinions and it's all it is constructive criticism.

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