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Old 05-19-2011, 03:53 PM   #1
brutnus
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Location: Hixson
Vehicle:
2004 WRX
2.1L

Default Engine Build 2.1L (Brutnus) Updated

Update Status: Update on 2/21/2016
70K Miles thus far. Had a thermostat stick and caused it to overheat. Thinking headgausket.


Engine Build 2.1L


Chapter 1: Background Information
Chapter 2: Goal
Chapter 3: Parts
Chapter 4: Steps
Chapter 5: Pictures
Chapter 6: Results
Chapter 7: Additional Information


==================================================


Chapter 1

Car: 2004 Subaru WRX
Background: Spun a rod bearing around 100k miles. Towed the car to my dad's little shop and started to pull the engine. DEAR GOD CAMSHAFT BOLTS FROM @#!*% !!! After finally getting the engine tore apart it is clear that piston 3 is the problem. Piston 3's rod bearing is gone and there is metal all in the oil pan. So i have to rebuild the short block. After reading for about 2 weeks on rebuilding 2.0s i have decided to go with the 2.1L build. STI Crank, Manley Rods, Manley Stroker pistons.

My Info: 25 and Married so in love but broke. I have the help of my dad, My uncle (worked at a subaru dealership), my friend Josh (link is to his account on another forum) some friends and NASIOC!! Time is a problem because this is my daily driver.


==================================================

Chapter 2

GOAL: Build a engine for daily use but with some kick and on a budget.
Thread Goal: Plan out the entire process so i don't miss something and to make a game plan. Also to get ideas from NASIOC.

==================================================

Chapter 3

Parts List
Manley Stroker Pistons
Manley Rods
2011 STI Crank
ACL ROD & Main Bearings
STI 11mm Oil Pump
Full Gasket Kit
Gates Water pump and Racing Belt Kit
OEM Oil Cooler
OEM Oil Pickup
3 Bent Valves + heads redone
Large Ziplock bags
Sharpie
Subaru Engine Manual
Oil: Rotella T synthetic blend 5w40


==================================================

Chapter 4

STEP 1: Remove Engine and Tear down
Completed on 5/7/2011
The car broke down, so i had it towed to the local Subaru Dealership. They couldn't find out what the problem was, they said it would be 2k just to tear down the engine and find the problem. Then another 2k for an engine or 2k for the heads plus labor. I promptly called my father and we towed it to his shop. Jacked up the car and began tearing the engine apart. Oil pan was covered with metal shards and rod #3 was loose against the crank. Synapse was the the rod bearing spun. This caused the car to jump timing. The car was off by 2 teeth which lead to replacing 3 valves.
So i tore down the engine, placing all the spare bolts/nuts and car parts in zip lock bags or organizing so i would know where they go. Once the engine was on the stand it went quickly but i didn't rush it because i wanted to remember how it should look completed. My biggest fear was putting it all back together and have 10 spare bolts laying around.
Step 2: Organize and Spend Money
Completed 02 5/19/2011
So i started to do research on alternatives. I landed on doing a rebuild but tossing in a STI crank and strocker pistons instead of OEM. So i bucked up and purchased the rods, pistons and crank.

Step 3: RUST BE GONE and Paint
While i was waiting for the parts to arrive i found lots of parts on the car that had rusted spots. I hit them with a wire brush and some rust remover then painted the spots.

Step 4: Engine a New
With the power of Purple Power + Hot Water + Sea Foam the engine came out looking brand new. I took a large plastic container and filled it with hot water and sprayed down the engine blocks with purple power and let the blocks sit in the water for about 15 minutes. Remove, spray down with hot water, then air dry and then hit it with sea foam to it from rusting. Rinse and repeat about 4 times to make sure it was good and clean. Then wrapped with plastic to keep the dirt out.

Step 5: Head work
I took the heads to a shop and had them redo the heads. I had to purcahse 3 new valves but all in all the heads came back good. In retrospec i should have put in STI cams. Also i had the shop clean the Oil pan. I was unable to clean all the metal out of the oil pan. They gave it a acid bath and that cleaned it up nice.

Step 6: Oil Pump, Gaskets
Since we are already this far in might as well replace the Oil pump, Water pump, new gaskets, new timing belt and tensors.

Step 7: Shortblock Assemble
Got all the parts in and start assembling the shortblock.



My uncle going over the block one last time.


My uncle and I torquing down the rod bolts to the crankshaft.


The engine halves split with the crankshaft plus rods


another pic of the halves


Step 8: Longblock Assemble
Heads, then timing belt. Valve covers. exhaust manifold, uppipe, Turbo, Intake Manifold, and lots of hoses.

(crappy quality)

after night 2.


after night 3


after night 4


Step 9 : Reattach engine to transmission
Dropped the engine back in the car and hooked everything back up. Thank God for the ziplock bags.

Step 10 : First Crank
Got everything connected. Say a prayer and then try to start the car but it won't turn over. Didn't connect the ground to the starter. Reconnect and fires right up. No leaks. Let it sit for about 3 minutes. Turned the car off and let it cool down then cranked it back up and let it run for about 15 minutes.

Step 11 : Road Trip
Drove then car to y uncle's house and did another quick look over. Then drove it home.

Step 12 : Profit
Car is running. I had no idea how loud forged internals would be. It really scared me and i thought the car had problems but it seems to normal.
==================================================

Chapter 5
Moved pictures to the right steps.



==================================================
Chapter 6

Results

Car is running (4/2/2012) and i plan on eventually going big turbo.
Feel Free to read the whole thread. There are ups and downs and tons of information about builds.
==================================================
Chapter 7

Additional Information

Future Parts List

Turbo Inlet
Injectors
Fuel Pump
Turbo
Meth or e85.



I would also like to recommend Nitros's Build thread for lots of good information on This type of build.

Great information on engine break-ins
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Last edited by brutnus; 02-21-2016 at 08:31 PM. Reason: Updated information.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:00 PM   #2
NITROS
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Im going to put a oil cooler on your purchase list. you do not want to reuse yours if you had metal bits in the oil. Good Luck, feel free to pm me if you have any questions.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:33 PM   #3
MartinSTi05
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11. Profit.

Best of luck with the build. I liked my 2.1L. A cheap upgrade over the 2.0.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:47 PM   #4
mowgli29
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subscribed.

interested to watch this thread, want to do a 2.1 eventually myself.

Also, I suppose this is as good a place to ask as any...I see you've listed Mahle stroker pistons. That seems to be a popular choice for the 2.1. What CR does that yield, and is it even possible to use stock 2.0 pistons?

EDIT: just noticed:
Quote:
Originally Posted by brutnus View Post
DEAR GOD CAMSHAFT BOLTS FROM HELL!!!

Agreed.

Last edited by mowgli29; 05-19-2011 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:23 PM   #5
brutnus
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2004 WRX
2.1L

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli29 View Post
subscribed.

interested to watch this thread, want to do a 2.1 eventually myself.

Also, I suppose this is as good a place to ask as any...I see you've listed Mahle stroker pistons. That seems to be a popular choice for the 2.1. What CR does that yield, and is it even possible to use stock 2.0 pistons?

EDIT: just noticed:
Agreed.
I believe (dont quote me) that its near the same or a little lower with the stroker pistons. I believe no on the stock pistons, because the extra stroke from the crank would increase the CR to much.

Again i am not 100% i would wait for someone who knows these things to answer.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:26 PM   #6
mowgli29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brutnus View Post
I believe (dont quote me) that its near the same or a little lower with the stroker pistons. I believe no on the stock pistons, because the extra stroke from the crank would increase the CR to much.

Again i am not 100% i would wait for someone who knows these things to answer.
That's what I was thinking....but I'm wondering if the CR bump would really be THAT bad (assuming the pistons wouldn't just smack the heads).

I mean, it'd certainly help off-boost power/drivability... though it would limit my overall power potential. I have to wonder how much it'd limit power potential though... might it be worth the tradeoff? Sorry to clog up the thread with my questions, lol.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:26 PM   #7
brutnus
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NITROS

What Oil pump did you use? is the 11mm to much for this setup? i have heard the 12mm has caused problems for some folks.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:30 PM   #8
brutnus
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli29 View Post
That's what I was thinking....but I'm wondering if the CR bump would really be THAT bad (assuming the pistons wouldn't just smack the heads).

I mean, it'd certainly help off-boost power/drivability... though it would limit my overall power potential. I have to wonder how much it'd limit power potential though... might it be worth the tradeoff? Sorry to clog up the thread with my questions, lol.
Also i believe clearance is a problem with stock pistons. with the stock turbo you may (may) be able to get away with it but if you went bigger it wouldn't work well.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:31 PM   #9
mowgli29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brutnus View Post
Also i believe clearance is a problem with stock pistons. with the stock turbo you may (may) be able to get away with it but if you went bigger it wouldn't work well.
Gotcha. Meh, guess I'll just nut up and get the Mahles.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:35 PM   #10
Bishop
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I like what you're doing here as I'm interested in a 2.1L as well.
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:04 PM   #11
brutnus
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one question i do have is. (currently i plan on getting a 11mm oil pump)


Break in Oil? and long term oil?
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:47 PM   #12
jerry curl
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You should change the turbo bro. Good luck with your build.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:20 AM   #13
brutnus
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I plan to go with a bigger turbo just short on funds and a 6speed.
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:13 AM   #14
NITROS
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I used the 11mm because it flows better at different higher psi's then the 12mm. There is a thread here on nasioc that shows the flow rates at different pressures. I cannot find it now. I am using the 11mm because I have a 8000pm redline and I need it. if you are reving to 7000 you should be fine with either 10 or 11mm.
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Old 05-20-2011, 02:49 AM   #15
brutnus
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Thanks for the info.

Any thoughts on Oil?
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:30 AM   #16
mowgli29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brutnus View Post
one question i do have is. (currently i plan on getting a 11mm oil pump)


Break in Oil? and long term oil?
I know "Ron" from Axis/Raw always recommended Shell Rotella for break in as well as continuous use on his built blocks...which seemed to be quite popular till he left and everyone found out he was a criminal, lol.

IIRC, he said Rotella dino 15w40 for breakin, then continue with dino, or switch to Rotella T synthetic 5w40 if you want.

EDIT, found a Ron quote:
Quote:
Suggested break-in oils

We like Shell Rotella T 15-40 weight for all break-in mileage. If you are in an extremely cool climate, you will want to consider a lighter weight of oil like 10-40 or 10-30.
You can continue to use the Shell Rotella T oil after completion of break-in if you wish. If you do switch to full synthetic, be sure to run a quality product. We do not recommend Mobil 1 at this time. For some reason, Subaru engines do not fare well with Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. The Subaru engine likes to “drink” this brand of oil.
Link to entire breakin procedure, as specified by Raw Performance.

Last edited by mowgli29; 05-20-2011 at 04:39 AM.
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:34 AM   #17
weirdpuffy
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subscribed doing the same thing right now. just need to get my block bored first.
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:07 AM   #18
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Missing from your list:

aftermarket oil pickup
TGV deletes
TD05-16G

Great thread! keep us posted

<--- sometimes wishes he went 2.1
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:18 AM   #19
brutnus
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Great info mowgli29


Spenk
Added the oil pickup and TGV deletes.
With the TGV deletes this is more of a mod instead of a purchase correct?

Thanks
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:33 AM   #20
brutnus
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This seems to be obvious but gonna ask anyway.

I have a Cobb Accessport. For the break-in process i need to return the ECU to factory? Only use different maps once the break-in process is completed?
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:35 AM   #21
clegg318
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im doing a 2.1 build right now, i had it built by outfront motorsports and i was torn on the oil pump too, yeah a larger number sounds great and will flow more but it can actually hurt you in the end. you can end up pumping to much oil into the valve covers and it ends up taking longer to drain back to the pan given our flat engines, i spoke to outfront and they assured me that the 10mm should me more than adequate for my build(i dont plan to rev past 7k) and that 10mm is the size they have recommended and used on previous 2.1's. the guys i spoke to claim they have never had any issues to date running this pump
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:17 AM   #22
NITROS
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If you are handy you can do the TGV deletes yourself. I recommend doing it right off the back, when the engine is out. you wont feel like doing it later on. That happen to me. I didnt feel like doing it for almost a year.
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:52 AM   #23
clegg318
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ive been interested in doing them on my car since the engine is out and the tgv's are actually seperated from the manifold, my only hesitation is any engine operating issues/ check engine lights. i always hear everyone talking about tgv deletes but none of the prep work/ things that go along with them to make the engine run properly. well now that i think about it couldnt i go into cobb's race software and check off the tgv related codes that come up?
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:48 AM   #24
sense of nature
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITROS View Post
If you are handy you can do the TGV deletes yourself. I recommend doing it right off the back, when the engine is out. you wont feel like doing it later on. That happen to me. I didnt feel like doing it for almost a year.
Depends how much your time is worth lol ,
I did tgv's once.. & I will pay the 150.00 to grimmspeed for me not to have to do them again
But you should definetly do em !
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:58 AM   #25
Spenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brutnus View Post
This seems to be obvious but gonna ask anyway.

I have a Cobb Accessport. For the break-in process i need to return the ECU to factory? Only use different maps once the break-in process is completed?
You will need a custom, low-boost break-in map created for your mods. Trying to run the stock map would destroy the build in short order. With a modded block, you'll NEVER be going back to the crap stock tune.

Break-in oil and changes at mileage-specific intervals are also essential. Keep that sucker clean for the break in and you'll get great results from the final tune.
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