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Old 01-18-2012, 01:18 PM   #1
Spigatelli
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I have been working on this in the NA forums, but decided to move it here. I have transplanted the 06 engine into the outback. Some vacuum things figured out and it runs! Right now, it will not idle properly, idles way to low and stalls. If I unplug the MAS it forces it into safe mode or whatever and it idles around 1500-2000 rpms. There are plugs on the heads that are not being used, but the way it runs while driving and in safe mode, leads me to believe that I will be fine without them. I have thought about hooking them up to 12 volts just to see what they do. I am going to try to sort the idle issue this week. I do have a bad O2 sensor, so I will replace that this week. Any other ideas or suggestions?
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Last edited by Spigatelli; 01-18-2012 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 01-20-2012, 07:29 AM   #2
Spigatelli
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Here are a pic of the 2 things that I did not hook up. The grey one seems to be an sensor, and the black one is the one that activates the variable valve thing-a-majig. Anyone know what kind of voltage normally goes to these? Or whether it gets voltage at idle or at "top-end"?

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Old 01-22-2012, 02:49 PM   #3
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When you turn off the AVLS system you will have about 1/2 of engine power. There is little information about the AVLS system. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=9837

You need an external controller and driver, which will manage the AVLS valves. ( I have for these purposes the Unichip Q)
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:34 PM   #4
Patrick Olsen
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Good info about AVLS operation and triggering in this thread.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:36 PM   #5
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I have driven it around, and it doesn't seem to have 1/2 the power. Really I don't notice much, if any difference from the stock 05 without AVLS. But for arguments sake, what would happen if I just put 12v to it all the time and forced it into fully open mode? May hurt my low end bounce up to 1500 rpm, but should still work right? Keep in mind that this is a wagon my wife drives daily. She doesn't put her foot in it much.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:32 AM   #6
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Good info about AVLS operation and triggering in this thread.
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:30 PM   #7
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I read it, I just do not have the ability to build a controller for it. I sent a message to teslamaster to see if he cold give me the voltage to flip the switch. It will either be always on or always off. I spoke to Keith from AWS tuning and he is going to take a look at it next week. He is sure he can get the idle issue worked out, so that is half the battle.

I am a classic bike and VW guy. All these new-fangled electronic gizmos scare the pants off of me. LOL
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spigatelli View Post
I read it, I just do not have the ability to build a controller for it. I sent a message to teslamaster to see if he cold give me the voltage to flip the switch. It will either be always on or always off. I spoke to Keith from AWS tuning and he is going to take a look at it next week. He is sure he can get the idle issue worked out, so that is half the battle.
For information. I solenoids are fed a constant voltage. I picked up a safety net for powerful resistors in series to reduce the voltage to 2V (80% of the factory emulation frequency power), but probably can and directly solenoids feed from 12v. The controller (Unichip Q) power ON a solenoids after 2700 rpm and the load on the engine for more than 30%. But if you do a simple controller is quite possible to dispense controlled only engine speed. Drivers solenoids are made on a powerful field-effect transistors.
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:23 AM   #9
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After much work, purchasing an ECU and wiring harness from the donor car, I opted for forget that noise and just swap heads. I should have done this to begin with. I pulled the motor last night and I am taking it to AWDTuning to have them swap the heads from the old engine to the new. Hopefully this will fix the issues.
I was going to try to merge the harness and use the new ECU, but it scared the crap out of me. LOL.
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:37 PM   #10
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The new engine has a redesigned cumbustion chamber. This will not be compatible with your old heads. The pistons have a different shape and may contact your old heads.

You can leave the new heads on and not bbother with the AVLS system as when it is not connected it defaults to high lift mode. The only reason this system exists is for emission purposes. Switching the valves on and off has no performance gain. So leaving them in the default (disconnected) state will work fine for you.

jake
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:25 PM   #11
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That is not good. I could not get it to idle at all with the new engine. I was going to have them just bump the idle, but the 05 2.5i is a one year only engine and no one has a map for it. With no map, there is no way to just bump the idle.
I think I just got a little bit sick reading this.
Short of putting the old heads on the new engine and checking clearances, there is no way to know if this will work right?
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:29 PM   #12
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I have not tried myself to see if they will work without contacting, but you can clearly see the pistons have raised areas that could be an issue. Not to mention the running issues it will have if they do clear.

Are you sure you didnt just need to let the car re-learn idle? Usually when you you reset the ECU on a DBW car it needs to relearn idle and may easily stall and idle rough.

jake
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:05 PM   #13
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I have tried resetting the ECU and even had AWDtuning take a look. I feel sick. This has turned into a nightmare. Should I just have the 05 engine rebuilt and try to sell the 06 engine to get some of my money back or have AWD merge the wiring harness and pray that they can get the ECU to work?
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:42 PM   #14
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The 05 and 06 use the same intake manifold. Did you try swapping throttle bodies? There must be some silly reason why it wont idle. Something missing or forgotten.

jake
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:57 PM   #15
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I did not swap throttle bodies. If there was a map for the 05reverything would be cake. I think this model year is cursed. The reason I never switched intakes was because of the wiring difference.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:16 PM   #16
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I still dont see any reason you cant make this work.

jake
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:36 PM   #17
Spigatelli
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I am at a loss. If you have a suggestion on controlling the idle on the 06 engine, I am all ears. I can merge the wiring harness and try the new ECU, but it it doesn't work, then I wasted all the time and money to merge them only to have to undo it. With no map for the 05 ecu, I have no way to bump the idle with an ecu flash. If I had that, it would be done. Right now the engine is out to the car because I pulled it to swap heads.

Classic VW's are a lot easier to deal with. LOL
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:45 PM   #18
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I think your idle issue is likely caused by something else, not a programming issue. Somewhere something is causing this, either overlooked or a different component. The 05 and 06 had very similar intake manifolds. Therefore most items are interchangeable between them. I would start there. Also you may need to swap the crank trigger wheel and cam pulley from the old engine. Sometimes these items are year specific. If you were nearby I would take a look and help you, but I cant diagnose over the internet.

jake
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:23 AM   #19
Spigatelli
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I have decided to quit jacking with it and rebuild the 05 engine. Anyone want to buy a good 06 2.5i engine with an ECU and wiring harness?
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Old 02-03-2012, 04:08 PM   #20
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If you can spare the downtime, you could have Iwire merge your harnesses.


~Josh~
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Old 02-03-2012, 04:10 PM   #21
Spigatelli
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Who is Iwire? I tried searching for them.
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:07 PM   #22
Spigatelli
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2305504

Here is the 06 2.5i engine. There is just about everything you would need to do a swap. ECU, Dash harness, engine harness, throttle body, intake...
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:57 PM   #23
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AVLS/VVT won't affect your idle at all. And for the one that said that you will be having only 1/2 the power if not activated, your wrong! I have an 09 in my 02 Forester since a year. The difference in power is... about nothing. Yea the cam duration is a bit different but don't worry about that.

If you did use the same air intake/plenum you did something wrong.

With 06-11 intake it's different, there is a small calibration Allen bolt on the TB and it's calibrated at the construction plan and sealed in epoxy.

With my engine conversion I'm using a early legacy intake tube and I sometime have to re-calibrate the TB

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