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Old 07-10-2012, 10:22 AM   #1
JarHarms
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Default Transmission switches, sensors, harnesses, misc.

If you find this thread useful, please consider contributing something. Help keep the thread on-track and tidy. Thanks.

Info covering some of the 5MT and 6MT electrical components that could provide some help during a transmission swap. While re-installing my 6MT, I was cleaning a few things up and had some time to take photos. I do not bother beyond 2007 MY so I will try my best to filter in 2008+MY related info as I get quality/confirmed info. I am using a combination of parts I have ordered myself and opposed forces diagrams to group part numbers to USDM model years. If there are any discrepancies please PM me but be prepared to provide some supporting data.
Although there really isn't a JDM - USDM divergence I am still going to separate this info into those groups. Trying to drive home the point to specify exactly what you are working with. Something as little as the MY shift between JDM and USDM can make for a frustrating experience when trying to understand your question(s).

**USDM Information**
I prefer using Normally Open (N.O.) and Normally Closed (N.C.) to identify the switches. Sometimes "inverted" and "non-inverted" is used, although it can be confusing if you do not share the same starting reference. Think of it as one person thinking inverted is N.O. and another person thinking inverted is N.C. What a mess that makes right? Using N.C. and N.O. is more foolproof. And it's "normally" as in normally the switch's plunger is not pushed inside, at rest so to speak.


Backup Lamp switches (BLS)
Backup Lamp (reverse) switch bodies are identical in size and thread. Function (normally open) is the same as well. The only differences are the pigtail lengths and connector types. They are essentially interchangeable as long as you have the right combination of harnesses to connect them.

earlier (?) n/a Backup Lamp switch assembly 32005AA051 -> 32005AA052 -> 32005AA053
longer than 14"(?) pigtail length with square type connector (gray color)
does not use a sub-harness, connects near top of trans
normal position = open switch “OL”
depressed position (reverse) = closed switch “Ω”
*Normally Open (N.O.) verified with DMM*
I'm measuring the NPS in my 2002 Forester.


2002-04 WRX Backup Lamp switch assembly 32005AA081
I do not have one to measure yet
round type connector
normal position = open switch “OL”
depressed position (reverse) = closed switch “Ω”
*Normally Open (N.O.) verified with DMM

2005-07 and 08+ WRX Backup Lamp switch assembly 32005AA091 >CLICK for PHOTO<
4.5” pigtail length with square type connector (gray color)
normal position = open switch “OL”
depressed position (reverse) = closed switch “Ω”
*Normally Open (N.O.) verified with DMM

2004-07 STi Backup Lamp switch assembly 32005AA070 >CLICK for PHOTO<
11.5” pigtail length with round type connector (white color)
normal position = open switch “OL”
depressed position (reverse) = closed switch “Ω”
*Normally Open (N.O.) verified with DMM

2008+ STi Backup Lamp switch assembly 32005AA110
I do not have one to inspect yet
appears to have the longer pigtail length and the square type connector (gray color)


Neutral switches (NPS)
Neutral switch bodies are identical in size and thread. Function (normally open) are the same except for the later models (normally closed). The other differences are the pigtail lengths and connector types. These switches are essentially interchangeable as long as you have the right combination of harnesses to connect them and the function matches what the ECM is programmed for.
The connector terminals are not the same and will not interchange between the round type (larger terminal pins) and the square type (smaller terminal pins). If you need to convert one switch to a different connector type you will have to cut and splice.
Again the N.O. or N.C. function is something you must consider. Swapping the neutral switch is possible while the trans is installed. Although the 6MT switch position makes that job pretty painful while in-car. I highly suggest DMM checks of the function of the installed neutral switch prior to installing a 6MT trans. Mismatched neutral switch functions can cause various operation issues (cruise control problems, speedo problems, etc). An alternative option is to invert the neutral switch value in the ROM (available in some forms of Eng Mgmt). However that is an entirely separate topic I do not plan on covering in here.

n/a neutral switch 32008AA071 -> 32008AA072 -> 32008AA073 -> 32008AA074
longer(?) pigtail length with square type connector (brown color)
does not use a sub-harness, connects near top of trans
normal position (neutral) = open switch “OL”
depressed position (in gear) = closed switch “Ω”
*Normally Open (N.O.) verified with DMM
I'm measuring the NPS in my 2002 Forester, looks like cemmett's 2.5RS follows the same function.


2000-04 WRX neutral switch 32008AA103
I do not have one to measure yet
normal position (neutral) = open switch “OL”
depressed position (in gear) = closed switch “Ω”

2005-07 and 08+ WRX neutral switch 32008AA150 -sub-> 32008AA151 >CLICK for PHOTO<
6” pigtail length with square type connector (brown color)
normal position (neutral) = closed switch “Ω”
depressed position (in gear) = open switch “OL”
*Normally Closed (N.C.) verified with DMM

2004 STi neutral switch 32008AA091
I do not have one to measure yet
normal position (neutral) = open switch “OL”
depressed position (in gear) = closed switch “Ω”
*Normally Open (N.O.) confirmed [Info from SharpTuning].

2005-07 STi neutral switch 32008AA160 >CLICK for PHOTO<
14” pigtail length with round type connector (black color)
normal position (neutral) = closed switch “Ω”
depressed position (in gear) = open switch “OL”
*Normally Closed (N.C.) verified with DMM

2008+ STi neutral switch 32008AA180
I do not have one to inspect yet
square type connector (brown color)


Switch gaskets (i.e. crush washers)
Note: new switches come with a gasket in the box. Honestly I reuse these most of the time unless they are really messed up. If these are omitted or crushed down "way" thin then replace them with new. The gasket thickness sort of plays into the motion range of the switch's plunger.
gasket 803914060


Installed locations of the 5MT and 6MT switches



Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
pre-2000 VSS sensors 85082AC012 [Info and Photos from Legacy777]
>CLICK for PHOTO1<
>CLICK for PHOTO2<
>CLICK for PHOTO3<
Worth noting that these have 2pin connectors and are completely different than the 2000-07 3pin VSS sensors. I do not believe 6MTs were built with this type of VSS sensor, maybe the earlier split case 6MTs could have. If your 6MT came with this you will need to replace the VSS with the newer VSS if installing into a recent MY WRX/STi. If you are swapping into a chassis that needs the older VSS, you will have to get that to work.
Another technical difference that Legacy777 notes is the 2pin VSS sensor produces a sine wave output which needs to go to the gauge cluster first. The cluster then outputs a square wave which is sent to the ECU. The ECU will not work if you directly send the sine wave one of an older VSS.

2002-07 VSS sensor 85082AE000
3p connector. When swapping VSS sensors, watch out for the drive pin. I have lost one or two when I was not paying attention. These type of VSS sensors are pretty much interchangeable.
The 3pin VSS produces a square wave output and can be used directly by the ECU.

2008+ WRX do not have a physical VSS sensor, VSS driveshaft, VSS gear, or front diff gear. VSS function was picked up by the wheel speed sensors. In some swap situations a device is needed to convert ABS signal into a VSS signal (e.g. DCCDpro, MapDCCD). This thread is not the proper place to discuss such a situation. I am just pointing it out the significance of this difference.
Not sure what the the VSS area looks like on the newer 5MTs, I have not run across one yet. The 6MT has an expansion plug blocking off the hole in the clutch housing. There is also a hex plug (similar to the clutch shaft) in place of the oil level gauge tube.


VSS Extension Harness
pre-2000 WRX VSS extension harness 81881FA000 [Info from Legacy777]
This extension harness works with the older 2p VSS sensor.

2002-07 WRX VSS extension harness 81881FA010 [Photos from Legacy777]
>CLICK for PHOTO1<
>CLICK for PHOTO2<
>CLICK for PHOTO3<
The extension harness is used on WRX since the VSS is mounted further rearwards on the 5MT. The STI will not have this harness since it is not needed for the 6MT. Just keep in mind during a swap that your WRX harness at the firewall will have a 4pin connector matching this extension harness and not the 3p VSS. If doing a 6MT swap you can re-pin the 3p connector to you firewall harness or just keep the extension harness and tuck the extra length out of the way.

2008+ WRX do not have this harness since the VSS sensor was removed from the transmission assembly.


Trans Harnesses
Harness from the pitch stop area to the neutral and back lamp switches. The STi trans harness also incorporates the DCCD harness. They can some what interchange as long as you have a connector that matches your car and the switches used. It is pretty easy to match up to the firewall harness by switching out the 4pin and 6pin connectors since they are of the same type. The switch end connectors are of different types but can always be spliced since these are merely on/off switches. I have reused the 5MT harness (with switches) when swapping in a 6MT but keep in mind that that combination keeps the connectors higher up on the trans. The 6MT assembly does fit much tighter in the trans tunnel than the 5MT, use caution or "crunch".
Also note that the STi harness can not simply be removed/installed. The DCCD connections are internal and require removing the rear tail housing to get to them.

older n/a applications do not have this harness since the neutral and backup switches connect directly to the chassis harness near the top of the trans. The newer version n/a applications seem to use the same sub-harness design as the turbo versions.

2002-04 WRX trans harness 24031AA080
I do not have one to measure yet
4pin firewall connector => two 2pin (round) switch connectors

2005-07 and 2008+ WRX trans harness 24031AA410 >CLICK for PHOTO<
13” length, 4pin firewall connector => two 2pin (square) switch connectors

2004-07 STi trans harness 24031AA441 >CLICK for PHOTO<
19” length, 6pin firewall connector => two 2pin (round) switch connectors, DCCD pass-through, and 2pin DCCD connector
additional 19” length DCCD harness plus 3” internal length

2008+ STi trans harness 24031AA480
I have not had one to inspect yet.
square type connectors


Trans O2 Sensor Harnesses
Extension harness from the pitch stop area to the rear of the transmission. There are slight differences but functionally they will interchange. I have used 5MT versions with 6MT transmissions without issues.

2002-07 and 2008+ WRX O2 sensor harness 24039AA165 >CLICK for PHOTO<
31” length, 4pin firewall connector => 4pin sensor connector
rear clip 4” from rear connector

2004-07 and 2008+ STi O2 sensor harness 24039AA231 >CLICK for PHOTO<
33” length, 4pin firewall connector => 4pin sensor connector
rear clip is attached to rear connector


Related Info
DCCD switch and roller differences >CLICK HERE<
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Last edited by JarHarms; 11-10-2015 at 09:25 PM. Reason: editing
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:22 AM   #2
JarHarms
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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TMIC, FP blue, ELH

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**JDM Information**
Backup Lamp switches
v6 STi (5MT) backup lamp switch (unknown p/n)
.... pigtail length with round type connector
normal position =
depressed position (reverse) =



Neutral switches
v6 STi (5MT) neutral switch (unknown p/n)
.... pigtail length with round type connector
normal position (neutral) =
depressed position =


v8 STi neutral switch (unknown p/n) [Info from Rokkit]
14" pigtail length with round type connector
normal position (neutral) = closed switch "Ω"
depressed position = open switch "OL"


**Unconfirmed Information**
At least not enough confirmed to me yet, only going from photos that have confirmed trans codes that I can track to the real MY.
It appears that the later WRX square type N.C. switches looks to have been carried over into the 2008 WRX. I have not found anything to suggest that the square connectors were also used into 2009, 2010, 2011, and 2012 WRX's. Although it would make sense if they did. I do not know anything about their function type (N.C. or N.O.) yet. I suspect they are N.C. type.

It also appears that the square type switches are being used on the 2010 STi. I have not found anything to suggest that the square connectors were also used into 2008, 2009, 2011, and 2012 STi's. I am pretty sure I have seen round type switches on the 2008 and possibly 2009 STi's. I could be incorrect though. It would make sense if they used square type on the 2011 and 2012 years. I do not know anything about their function type (N.C. or N.O.) yet. I suspect they are N.O. type.

Interesting, the 2010 and 2011 STi trans harnesses uses the square connectors that have been in the WRX for a few years already. I have seen confirmed photos of each.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-02-2014 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:54 AM   #3
lancelucas
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Great info.

For what it's worth...you can just use the NPS from the original car They swap from the 5MT to the 6MT no problem. No real need to get the DMM out unless you like to be fancy. They can also be swapped in the car if you find out you've got one with the wrong polarity.

For NPS: 02-04 is one way, 05+ is the other way. No early/late/whatever involved AFAIK.

Last edited by lancelucas; 07-10-2012 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:34 PM   #4
JarHarms
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Reuse. Yea I understood since I have been down that path more than a few times. My intent is simply to collect this all in one place specific to the transmission electrical doodads. If it came off other than that, I apologize. (but not really) I DMM check just about everything before install, it never hurts to be certain. Had a reused NPS that failed in the 1 day between the 5MT removal and the 6MT install, caused a PITA until I finally looked at its state. Besides I enjoy busting out the Fluke87.
And the 6MT NPS is not a pleasant swap-out while it's mounted in the car.

I had always been thinking along the 04 vs 05+ NPS break but while gathering some other part info I found the dates varied. Hence the early-late. Perhaps those are build dates (would make sense) which would be shifted from model year dates. I do want to shore those up a bit as long as I can find supporting data meeting my standards. Need to dig a bit deeper I suppose.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-13-2015 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 08-12-2012, 04:29 PM   #5
Legacy777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
2000-07 VSS sensor 85082AE000
3p connector. When swapping VSS sensors, watch out for the drive pin. I have lost one or two when I was not paying attention. These VSS sensors are pretty much interchangeable.

VSS Extension Harness
2000-07 WRX VSS extension harness 81881FA010
The extension harness is only used on WRX since the VSS is mounted further rearwards. Just keep in mind that your WRX harness at the firewall will have a 4pin connector that matches this extension harness and not directly to the 3p VSS. If doing a 6MT swap you can re-pin the 3p connector to you harness or just keep the extension harness.

Thanks for all the great info!

I had a question, but mainly confirmation I'm reading the above correctly. The extension harness will plug into the 3-pin VSS and then connect to the WRX 4-pin chassis connector, correct?

I'm doing a 6spd conversion on my 90 Legacy and converting to an overseas Legacy gauge cluster with electronic speedo. So I'm trying to find the connector that plugs into the speed sensor, and then I'll wire up my own harness to my stand alone.

Here's a pic from the parts book


When I get the harness I'd be happy to take a pic of it for your thread if you'd like.

Thanks
Josh
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Old 08-12-2012, 04:35 PM   #6
Legacy777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
prior to 2000 VSS sensors p/n(?)
Worth noting that these have 2p connectors and are completely different than the 2000-07 VSS sensors. If your 6MT came with this you will need to replace the VSS with the newer version.
Just so you have it, the p/n for the 2-pin MT speed sensor is 85082AE000. There is also a speed sensor extension cord for the 2-pin MT speed sensor, its p/n is 81881FA000.

Josh
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:19 PM   #7
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777 View Post
....I had a question, but mainly confirmation I'm reading the above correctly. The extension harness will plug into the 3-pin VSS and then connect to the WRX 4-pin chassis connector, correct?

When I get the harness I'd be happy to take a pic of it for your thread if you'd like....
Yes that is correct on that particular extension harness. 3p on the VSS side and 4p on the WRX connector side.

YES PLEASE a photo would be a great addition. And thank you for the part numbers. I will PM you my email to send it to or you can post it up here. Either way you want.
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:32 PM   #8
Legacy777
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Ok, great. Yeah when I get it, I'll snap some pictures for you.

Thanks!
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:05 PM   #9
JarHarms
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Info request -
1) Looking for people who have had contact with the neutral position switches on v6, v7, and v9 specifically JDM 6MT swaps. Can you verify if those switches are "closed" "Ω" when the trans is in neutral?

2) 2008-12 info that I can add into this thread. If you can provide info, I would like to stick to the same format with photos, actual DMM readings, and connector/lead info. However I will cannot use partial info since....well that just isn't good enough.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-27-2012 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:08 PM   #10
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V8 =

normal position (neutral) = closed switch “Ω”
depressed position = open switch “OL”
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:57 PM   #11
ejh8r
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Do you happen to know a part number for the harness that goes through the bulkhead, the following all plug into it: transmission dccd, speed sensor, 02 sensor harness etc. that actually goes into the car.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:57 PM   #12
Legacy777
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A little late, but here are pictures of the 6spd extension harness:




Speed Sensor Side Connector


Chassis Harness Side Connector



Here are pics of the two-wire electronic speed sensor





Speed Sensor Side Connector
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:33 AM   #13
JarHarms
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Hells yea now this is starting to look like a decent thread. Thanks for all the contributions.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:20 PM   #14
Legacy777
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You're welcome.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:55 AM   #15
ssrow18
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I have a 02 WRX with an 04 STI 6 speed transmission swapped into it. Ever since I had the shop put it in my reverse lights will not come on when in reverse. I thought this was simply because the plugs didn't match and they left them unplugged. Based on the info I'm reading here it sounds like they are the same connector plugs. Is this true? If so I probably just have a bad sensor then right?

I'm looking at what I need to purchase right now as my car has thrown a neutral position sensor switch CEL and I beleive it has gone bad as well. I want to fix both of these problems at one time while I have the tranny dropped.

Also would the 5 speed tranny neutral position switch work in the 6 speed? I am having an easier time finding that part than the 6 speed one. Thanks for such taking the time to great detailed info.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:07 PM   #16
Legacy777
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It almost sounds like they may have wired up the neutral sensor & reverse light switch backwards. To have both switches be bad is probably not too likely. The neutral switch should be the black round connector, and the reverse lights should be the white connector. I've always had issues testing these switches with a multimeter....I'm not sure why.

The 5spd & 6spd sensors are most likely the same, but the length of wire on them is different. Here are some pictures of a wiring repair I did for my swap. Some of the pictures may be helpful.

http://experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/6spdswap/11

Josh
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777 View Post
It almost sounds like they may have wired up the neutral sensor & reverse light switch backwards. To have both switches be bad is probably not too likely. The neutral switch should be the black round connector, and the reverse lights should be the white connector. I've always had issues testing these switches with a multimeter....I'm not sure why.

The 5spd & 6spd sensors are most likely the same, but the length of wire on them is different. Here are some pictures of a wiring repair I did for my swap. Some of the pictures may be helpful.

http://experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/6spdswap/11

Josh
Thanks for the help. Looking at your pictures I was stuck on number 11. I had a shop do my install. They said they where familiar with what parts had to be modified to make this work. I have a plug that I cannot figure out where it goes and I just assumed that it had to do with the DCCD. Here is a pic of this 6 pin plug and a 4 pin female plug that is not connected to anything. Can you make sense of this image for me please? I thought this might be the reason why my backing lights never worked. And now when my neutral position switch CEL came on My DCCD stopped working. It does it intermittedly as well when the CEL goes away by itself my DCCD starts working again. When it comes on the DCCD stops working. I have a third party DCCD controller as well if that helps.


Thanks, Stephen.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:16 PM   #18
JarHarms
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I see rear O2 sensor and the VSS are connected. Good.
Looks like this "shop" installed this 6MT using the 6pin female connector and harness (which is not connected to anything) and left your 4pin male harness connector disconected. I would say that you have not a single NPS, RPS, or DCCD circuit hooked up. Likely the cause of all of those phenomemon you described. Probably not failed switches as you originally thought.
If the shop had used your 5MT harness and switches...those would have just plugged right into the 4pin connector at your firewall.

What shop did this swap?
How long have you been driving it since the swap?
Where is are the aftermarket DCCD control wires (2 of them) connected at?
Do you still have the harness and switches from your 5MT?
Are you planning to do the repairs yourself or another shop?

The 5MT and 6MT switches are basically the same said for the function change around MY2005, some connector changes, and the length of the pigtails. The threaded bodies are interchangeble as long as you keep the other differences in mind. By "familar with what needed to be moddified to work" I think that shop was talking about the mechanical parts....electrical nessesities notsomuch. That sucks.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-02-2013 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:57 PM   #19
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The shop was Asian Automotive out of Savannah, Ga. I don't want to smear their name as they are a good shop and have done a lot of mechanical work on my car that has performed really well. I've been driving it for about a year like this as its my DD and I usually work around 125 hours every 2 weeks while going to school part time. The shop is about 1.5 hours away. I know excuses, excuses. But, mostly since nothing really affected the driveability of the car I wasn't really in a hurry to get it corrected.

The main DCCd which is made by DCCDPro is in the center console and travels down from there. I honestly have no idea where they are connected at as I had another shop put that in when I got it dynoed because they needed it for the dyno is what I was told....

I do not have any of the harness or switches from the 5MT.

I would like to do the repairs myself its just not feasable nor do I have the correct equipment to drop the transmission completely. Is it possible to drop it down a little and fix this problem? Do I need to drop it at all to make harness corrections?

What comes out of the unplugged 6-pin plug in my picture (is that NPS, RPS, and DCCD by chance?)? And what goes in to the 4-pin plug in my picture(NPS, and RPS?)? Finally what would you reccommend doing?

Thank you soo much for the enlightenment...
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:28 PM   #20
Legacy777
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What I would suggest doing is trying to trace where that four pin connector goes. You should be able to get access or at least see where it is going. I've got wiring diagrams I can send you that should help. The various pictures on my swap pictures should also be helpful too.

It sounds like besides the neutral switch and reverse wiring being off the wiring the shop added for the DCCD controller may not be done right or may be coming loose. Either you or a competent electrical shop needs to go through the wiring to make sure it's hooked up properly and wired properly, (i.e. water proof connections, etc). Like I said, I should be able to help you out with the wiring diagrams if you need them, but you or another shop will need to verify and redo the wiring.

Josh
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777 View Post
What I would suggest doing is trying to trace where that four pin connector goes. You should be able to get access or at least see where it is going. I've got wiring diagrams I can send you that should help. The various pictures on my swap pictures should also be helpful too.

It sounds like besides the neutral switch and reverse wiring being off the wiring the shop added for the DCCD controller may not be done right or may be coming loose. Either you or a competent electrical shop needs to go through the wiring to make sure it's hooked up properly and wired properly, (i.e. water proof connections, etc). Like I said, I should be able to help you out with the wiring diagrams if you need them, but you or another shop will need to verify and redo the wiring.

Josh
Ok, can I just say your photo documentation of your 6mt install is amazing. I just went through all of your pics twice. I then went outside to my car and was trying to trace that black female 4pin plug you told me to trace. It's dark outside right now but looking at the car and your pics I am 99.9% sure that it is the chassis side neutral and reverse plug.

I will make sure later but based on that knowledge I should just be able somehow connect the 6pin tranny side plug to the 4 pin chassis side plug. That should theoretically get my neutral switch and reverse switch working (I can worry about the DCCD later)? Correct me if im wrong please.

Should I get a 6mt chassis side female plug and a 5mt male plug tranny side and then wire them together somehow? Do you possibly have any extra plugs left over?

Could you help me out with the pinout diagram on the 6mt 6pin plug and the pinin diagram on the chassis 4pin plug please? That should help.

I will crawl under the car later and confirm that the connectors are firmly together and see where they connected the DCCD wires at.

Thanks again for the help guys.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:27 PM   #22
Legacy777
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Thanks! Yeah I tend to get carried away with the pictures and details Here is my 6spd swap details thread.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=49917

I just looked at your picture again and I now see the disconnected male 4-plug and a disconnected female 6-plug. The other two plugs there that are connected should be for the rear O2 sensor and that jumper for the speed sensor. So the shop didn't do anything to hook up the back up lights and neutral switch. If you still have the connector from your 5spd transmission, the easiest solution (if the wire lengths reach) would be to just unplug the round black & white connectors that plug into the neutral and back up switches and then plug in the existing 5spd harness and simply plug that into your existing chassis 4-plug harness. I'd suggest using some electrical cleaner to clean out the plugs since they've been open to the atmosphere.

If for some reason the wiring from the 5spd harness doesn't reach, you can simply cut the wires add a length of wire and then seal the joints with some water proof heat shrink tube. Hopefully the 5spd harness will reach and it'll just be a simple plug & play solution.

On the DCCD controller, If I had to guess the shop that wired that up, cut the DCCD solenoid wires somewhere along that harness and ran separate wires into the cabin. The connections they made probably were not water proof or have come loose, which is why your DCCD controller is not working all the time. Again, you'll have to trace the wire to see where exactly going.

The DCCD controller not being hooked up won't throw any check engine lights or that, so no, it's not critical that it be hooked up, but if you can address it while you're fixing the other two, that would be my suggestion.

Let us know what you find out.

Josh
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:33 PM   #23
ssrow18
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Ok sweet. This is making sense in my brain now which can be a little slow sometimes.
I need to find a 5mt reverse and neutral plug, rewire the harness and plug in.
Then check dccd connections.
When i get to it ill take pics and repost.
Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:38 PM   #24
Legacy777
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You really don't need to rewire anything. Do you see the wire/plug combo that is in the top of this picture (with the white and black round plugs on the left and a rectangular 4-pin plug on the right)?



This is all you need as it will replace the 6-pin plug that is currently there and not hooked up to anything. As you can see it is shorter than the 6spd wiring, which is my only concern with it being completely plug and play. If it is too short, you can cut it, extend it, and make sure the cuts are sealed with liquid electrical tape, water proof heat shrink, or some other form of water proof barrier.

Make sense?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:46 PM   #25
ssrow18
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Ok that makes sense. I need to search for one. Hell i might even be able to pick one up from the dealership depending on the cost.
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