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Old 12-07-2012, 09:36 PM   #26
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010

Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Yeah its 3/4. Get a uni-bit, and only go 80% of the way through with the 3/4" step size so you have a nice lip to set the bung on when you weld it so it doesnt fall through.
It can't fall through if I drill it the right size ... the bung itself is stepped.

Like that, if there's any chance the formatting stays. DOH. Or I could always just take a picture ... haha, waste of time ascii art:

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Old 12-07-2012, 09:46 PM   #27
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010

Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
100 miles may not have been enough if you didnt clean it out before you installed it

but you need group n or better engine mounts or a real header or both, in any event
haha, the header is plenty real ... it's just got the bung in the wrong place -- and the price was right ($0) so I'm not complaining, even if it needs some customization.

and HRMM ... what's that suspicious looking upper up-pipe bung I never noticed until looking at a picture of the build? I remember tightening that bolt and kind of recall it being rather small ... but why would that be there...!? Too bad it wasn't 02 sized, I'd throw it in there.


Wish I'd known about the engine mounts BEFORE I put the motor in, lol -- They looked to be in good shape -- the car (chassis) only has 58k on the clock, as I believe it's spent most of it's time blown up

No cheap fixes for Subie mounts like urethane inserts (or caulking-gun urethane filling like we used to do for hondas)?

While we're on the subject-- Did I miss something when I put this motor in or is the entire thing seriously held in place by TWO nuts and that dog-bone mount I put up top? I keep feeling like any high HP cars would rip the drivers side nut & washer right through the frame...!?

Last edited by johnyquest; 12-07-2012 at 09:54 PM.
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