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Old 02-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #1
txl146
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Default DIY front axle / knuckle on WRX (with pictures)

Well, I've taken some pictures from today's install on 2002 WRX sedan (axle + replacement knuckle).

Tools you need:

I did not have to use ball joint separator; instead used arm puller, which pretty much does the same thing.



You absolutely must have a roll punch set. Not needed on certain model year.



1. Use 32mm socket to remove axle nut with wheel on the ground. Once removed, go ahead and remove wheel, caliper, etc....

2. Use a roll punch kit to remove the pin (pin comes out of flat side / not chamfered side). One useful tip is to have both front ends off ground, which will allow you to turn axles freely.



3. Remove 19mm bolt and use tie rod end separator to separate it from the knuckle. Never use ball joint fork kit which will 100% damage the boot (this step not necessary if you're not going to remove the knuckle).






4. Remove pin from the ball joint nut. You can find replacement pin from autozone for cheap.



5. Use arm puller to separate ball joint from the control arm. You will hear a loud pop when it separates!
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Last edited by txl146; 02-23-2013 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:51 PM   #2
txl146
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6. Remove 2x19mm bolts/nuts from the strut, which will allow you to remove the knuckle from the control arm/strut. Axle can now be also removed (skip this step if you're just replacing axles).

Axle can be removed by pulling it toward you. You will need to wiggle around the knuckle in order to have enough room to remove axle.



7. EMPI vs. Stock Axles (I am returning them for a refund due to poor fitment).




Removed knuckle with 105k miles, which will be replaced with knuckle from 2007 WRX with 55k miles. I plan to install new ball joint & new wheel bearing.



8. Make an appointment to get wheel alignment done!

Make sure to apply enough anti-seize when putting back everything!!!

Last edited by txl146; 02-23-2013 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:58 PM   #3
vision.dynamix
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If you're just doing the axle, you can leave the knuckle attached to the strut. This will allow you to skip the alignment afterwards.
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:29 PM   #4
alx8283
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Txl, what was the fitment issue for you? Larger boot contacting the bottom of the strut?

I've never used roll punches. I've got a round file that gets in there, and a $1 screwdriver with the head cut off

Ps, great write up as usual!
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
You absolutely must have a roll punch set.
Only if you have female axles.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:02 PM   #6
txl146
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Thanks everyone for your input.

alx8283, fitment issue I was having is pin hole not aligning correctly and one axle not sliding in no matter what I did (2nd one slid in without any issue). I decided to just keep OEM stock axles as reason for replacing nuckle/axles was to replace bad ball joint.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:06 PM   #7
vision.dynamix
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Rotate the axle 180* if the pin isn't lining up. It is NOT exactly centered.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:22 PM   #8
txl146
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I did try to rotate the axle, but still wouldn't align correctly. To make it worse, only one of two axle slid in completely.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:29 PM   #9
alx8283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Thanks everyone for your input.

alx8283, fitment issue I was having is pin hole not aligning correctly and one axle not sliding in no matter what I did (2nd one slid in without any issue). I decided to just keep OEM stock axles as reason for replacing nuckle/axles was to replace bad ball joint.
That's too bad. I've used EMPI axles on quite a few subarus and vw's with zero fitment problems. It happens though, and at least you were able to reuse your stockers

Oh yeah, one more step: stake the new axle nut.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:13 PM   #10
txl146
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I just received replacement used OEM axle purchased from eBay in awesome shape. Install went smoothly without any fitment issue.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:53 PM   #11
SirRichieLee
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How about installation? I'm having trouble getting the hub back into the arm
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:07 PM   #12
WRXRgr
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Default No roll pin visible on MY04 WRX

Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post

2. Use a roll punch kit to remove the pin (pin comes out of flat side / not chamfered side). One useful tip is to have both front ends off ground, which will allow you to turn axles freely.





On my 2004 WRX, the 'green cans' are about 1/4" from the transmission
housing--the area for the roll pin would be inside the tranny housing.

Did Subaru use a different attachment method on my WRX?

Passenger Side:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/RfBYKw]


Driver Side:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/RXwwnb]
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:12 PM   #13
vision.dynamix
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You have male axles, no roll pin, the axles are held in with a spring clip. Pry them out with a prybar
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:27 PM   #14
WRXRgr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
You have male axles, no roll pin, the axles are held in with a spring clip. Pry them out with a prybar
Yowza! Just a regular ole pry bar? Any trick to putting em back in?

Edit: I hope like h-e-double-toothpicks there is no difference in the
hub splines for the different axle styles--I just replaced the hub &
bearings on the passenger front, which is the side with bad CV
axle...

Last edited by WRXRgr; 02-28-2017 at 01:44 PM.
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:45 PM   #15
vision.dynamix
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Yup, regular pry bar. You might need to dead blow hammer them back in.

Front hubs are the same.
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Old 02-28-2017, 10:43 PM   #16
Counterfit
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A good shove works, as long as the axle is aligned well with the hole.
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:19 AM   #17
vision.dynamix
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Yup, I often use the slop in the axle itself as a slide hammer to pop axles in/out.
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Old 03-07-2017, 10:57 PM   #18
WRXRgr
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Vehicle Recap: 2004 WRX (post 9/2003 build, male
stubs on both ends of front CV axles), 201K miles.

Well, here's an update--so far, so good!

I was able to pop the original passenger CV axle out
with a 7" pry bar--not too much force needed.

After reading up on different brands of replacement
axles, I decided on getting something locally. I'm hoping
I won't have to do any returns/exchanges, but a lifetime
warranty from a local joint seemed like a good idea.

O'Reilly carried this axle, SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE SB9040HD,
and the write-up sounded good--that it's designed specifically
for Subaru's that may have some slop in engine/tranny mounts--
they claim it has additional angular & linear range, beyond other
CV axle designs. The write-up and diagram, here:

http://www.trakmotive.com/wp-content...ubaru-HD-2.pdf

The large lump in the shaft, adjacent to the inboard CV
joint, is where they get the extra linear travel. That
larger shaft diameter came close (like about 1/4") to
some LCA bracketry, but I haven't heard any knocking
or odd sounds in ~150 miles (including about 5 miles
on rutted dirt road, at a 'spirited' rate). EDIT: visual
check showed no sign of the thickened axle
area making contact with anything.

Installation was easy, even working on jackstands.
Pressed the inboard end into transmission, held shaft and
outboard joint, gave a good shove and she popped all
the way in. Used the circlip that came on the axle, gave
a couple of tugs to make sure she was locked in--all
ok.

Fingers crossed, we got a good axle here!

Last edited by WRXRgr; 03-08-2017 at 10:17 AM.
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